Would it be TOO redneck to use a seatbelt for a limiting strap?

You know, different lengths for different terrain?

j

hmmm, might not work.

Seat belts are designed to 'give' when given a good hard yank. You can tell when they've been in a wreck because you can see the internal webbing through the outer fibers. They are made this way so that you know not to re-use them after an accident (like a pick-n-pull).

I know you don't give a rats arse about safety using them on the axle ;) but the fact that it's designed to give might defeat the 'limiting' aspect of your limiting strap.

If you wanted adjustability and nylon, you could go with that seatbelt idea but use thicker beefier webbing. Should be fine.

Nah...They will work fine. Heck, some guy's use chain or winch cable as thier strap (others seat-belts). Long as all your fun is not in the air it will work bueno'.

Why do you want to limit in the first place?

-D

Spectra-Cord? Tremendously strong, yet flexible. Two pieces with a Prusic knot and you could adjust to length.

I've never used the Spectra- variant, but even the accessory cord I've used had been hella strong-good enough for me to hang on it and use for ascending.

Peace,
Paul

Seatbelts will work for a while, but are not the most abrasion resistant. You could also use some swagged winch cable or rope, to add a little bling to the booty fab.
But the that makes me ask the question ...What do you think medium travel shocks are for?:flipoff2:

-Jeff

a local here is using some nylon strap from REI that looks exactly like a seat belt.

and that's not redneck at all; you can remove and wash them in the washing machine! . . . classy ;)

redneck would be burlap twine, or maybe some nylon rope cut off of your fish stringer, you know, with one of the hooks left on for effect.

Stop it! You're getting Bodgerover excited :flipoff2:

Originally posted by RockRover
Nah...They will work fine. Heck, some guy's use chain or winch cable as thier strap (others seat-belts). Long as all your fun is not in the air it will work bueno'.

Why do you want to limit in the first place?

-D

Wellllll

I am super back heavy right now with the new tire carrier. Add some roof weight, and you have a recipe for disaster with a vertical off camber situation. There is such a thing as TOO much flex. Remember I do the cone thing? DONT START DOUG! Front compression is not balanced. I am thinking that I need to strap it or run a sway bar. Even retained I have too much...

Originally posted by JSBriggs

But the that makes me ask the question ...What do you think medium travel shocks are for?:flipoff2:

-Jeff
Please....

j

RR, you and I are in the same boat.

On the S1 I am running stainless steel wire rope that are swaged on both ends with eyelets. I have too much down travel so decided to run limiting straps. I have them bolted to a bracket that has several different mounting holes so I could potentially adjust them.

I have them mounted just behind the rear springs.

Originally posted by Serious One
RR, you and I are in the same boat.

On the S1 I am running stainless steel wire rope that are swaged on both ends with eyelets. I have too much down travel so decided to run limiting straps. I have them bolted to a bracket that has several different mounting holes so I could potentially adjust them.

I have them mounted just behind the rear springs.

so mister photog, could you pm or post a pic? I was thinking about putting a cable from the link to the frame. Like to see yours though.

j

Originally posted by redrangie


so mister photog, could you pm or post a pic? I was thinking about putting a cable from the link to the frame. Like to see yours though.

j

Reminds me of the following exchange on the Simpsons:

Random character in bar #1: "Let's fight!"

Random character in bar #2: "Them's fightin' words!"

Hehe.

So, compositionally I was going for the entire presentation from end to end, highlighting the specific mounting technique. However, I was trying not to minimize the delicate curvature of the wire rope as it wound from upper to lower mount.

In order to achieve the visual presentation I was striving for I needed to use a wide-angle lens (in this case a 28mm), and due to the clearance issues between the fender skin and tire, had to utilize the camera wedged between said items. I was able to take advantage the fact that I was shooting digitally and preview the images as they were being shot. This eliminated the need to remove the camera from it's shooting position.

Technically I was trying to achieve maximum depth of field through the use of a very small aperature (f/22), this necessitated the use of additional external lighting. Due to the space limitations I was forced to use an external strobe unit connected to the camera via a cord that transfers exposure data to the camera. I wanted to eliminate any harsh highlights and/or shadows, so the use of a small diffuser was employed to minimize them. In such small confines it worked not as much as I had hoped, but provided sufficient additional lighting as to allow the extremely small aperature and hold the depth of field.

The camera's shutter speed was extremely slow, around 1/2 of a second because of the small aperature, and the desire to allow the natural light that was bouncing around under the car to be used. Due to the slow shutter speed it was extremely convenient that the camera was basically immobilized due to being wedged in between the tire and fender.

Any questions? :flipoff2:

oh yeah, one more thing...

I mounted them in front of the spring, not behind.

Apologies. ;)

Thanks Professor.

By the way, shouldn't you have used a diffuser to eliminate glare from the strobe with all that bling?

j

Originally posted by Serious One


I wanted to eliminate any harsh highlights and/or shadows, so the use of a small diffuser was employed to minimize them. In such small confines it worked not as much as I had hoped, but provided sufficient additional lighting as to allow the extremely small aperature and hold the depth of field.



:D

Here's a real-life tip I got from a bonified National Geographic photographer years ago. I atually *have* done this and can tell you it works very nicely.

Go to your local bakery and get some medium-ish WHITE wax bags. White is very very important because if you use a color of paper bag OTHER than white you will be throwing light onto your subject that is unnatural (unless you want the color added).

Grab fat rubber band. Place bag over strobe with majority of bag sticking in the air. Attatch bag to strobe (that you've pointed towards the cieling) with the rubber band.

Shoot and amaze your friends with the quality of nice soft diffused light you can get from of all things, a paper bag.

When I was tought this trick we used McDonalds bags. They used to be white with some red/yellow printing on them. The red/yellow printing added just the right amount of 'warmth' to the strobe. Now you can't use McDonalds bags because they are brown and made from recycled paper. :(

Am I on the right BBS????

:flipoff2:

And I was going to address the technical value of climbing webbing and the expected amount of force that would be imparted to same webbing straps (force expressed in kN of course).

Silly me!

I'm not sure that the webbing or the spectra-cord wouldn't add almost as much Bling to the vehicle! I suppose one could even find green and yellow cord to match the LR logo...

If we really wanted the bling factor, we could use Jumars instead of the prusik knots... Slightly less strong, but far bling-er:flipoff2:

But then, Petzl has those cute little Gri-gi (spelling? any climbers here?) thingamabobs instead. To really add some bling, cute little pearabiners anodized in green and yellow-yep, that's the ticket.

:flipoff2:

Peace,
Paul

Originally posted by SeaRover

redneck would be burlap twine, or maybe some nylon rope cut off of your fish stringer, you know, with one of the hooks left on for effect.

Originally posted by CT

Stop it! You're getting Bodgerover excited

I resent the implication that I am cheap.




If I was interested though - where would I source some of this fancy burlap twine?

Any pics?

:flipoff2:

twine is sittin next to my new wooden lift blocks.

took me a while to cut those buggers out with my circular saw, but i got it done.

YEEEEEHAAAWWWW!


(is it friday yet?) :p

Hey Bodgerover,
I thought you would be using wool.

:D


Michael.

Originally posted by Michael Rangie
Hey Bodgerover,
I thought you would be using wool.

:D


Michael.

Oh how very droll :flipoff2:

They would go nice with the sheepskin seat covers and the swandri though :D

Wood however is underated - particularily for a non welder like meself...

Made some excellent wooden packers to extend my bump stops a couple of inches pre-body lift [don't start :flipoff2: ]. It was suggested that I use tanalised wood for longevity but I found the kiln dried untreated 3 X 2 to be quite resilient - they looked as new as the day I installed them after 6 months of vigorous off-roading... :D

Sorry Bodgey,
couldnt resist.

Michael.

Originally posted by redrangie
Would it be TOO redneck to use a seatbelt for a limiting strap?

You know, different lengths for different terrain?

j

TOO redneck would be if you used the hat band off your 10 gallon hat :flipoff2:

No worries Michael

Some of Bodges best friends are sheep...

...and he wouldn't use wool, he'd use zip ties...

:flipoff2:

ct

And just what in the muddy fuck would you posh city slickers know about being a red-neck anyway.:flipoff2: I woke up this morning and took a piss off the front porch, had a budweiser for breakfast, looked out at the river to see how high the water was after the tornadoes, weed-eated ( yes, it is a word) around my mailbox so the mail lady would quit her bitchin' and deliver my mail again and went right back to bed in my boots on the old sofa on my front porch.

just use couple of coat hangers and be done with it.


JB

:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

just throw some bailin wire on there and be done with it.




(and the spelling is Gri-gri. definitely bling at 70 bux per)