Dana 35 Sla 4.56

[FX4CRAWLER]

Anybody know where i can find these, nobody seems to make em. when i do the SAS i need to regear EDIT: What do you guys recommend for 35/36's Also, does anybody make selectable locker for this yet (d-35)?

[Rerard]

Um if your gonna SAS, why are you buying gears for the SLA crap? Shouldnt you be looking for gears for whatever axle your swapping in?

[FX4CRAWLER]

yeah, i am gonna sas but thats gonna be awhile, i dont exactly have $3000 laying around...and i aint exactly a master mechanic either. so for now its just the sla...and i never said that 'I' was putting these in 'MY' truck, just a question. i should have been clearer so i edited the post, but thanks for checking to see if i had head on straight...and dont worry i will bug you plenty when i start in on gathering parts :flipoff2: . Besides i still have 20K miles left on my warranty, i gotta squeeze ford for all its worth.:D :rolleyes:

[taxxman2k]

anywhere that will sell you gears can sell you gears for that, just pick up the phone cause your not gonna find them listed on websites. Not to many SLA front ends running 4.56s.
What sort of truck is this? I imagine you are going to go through parts left and right with 35s or 36s and that is money towards a solid axle no matter whos truck this is (I see that it is FX4 but what?, a ranger isn't going to hold up to 35s too well on those factory bearings and ball joints (or any replacements for that matter).).

Good luck on the selectable locker. There is one that will hit the market soon (so they keep saying) but I forget who. For now you'll have to stick with something like a powertrax.

You might want to fix your edit it still makes no sense.

[s2pid whitey]

so you ARE or ARE NOT gonna SAS? and where do you get $3000 from? i don't think i spent more than $500 on my SAS... granted, i used a crappy axle, but it was just a template for my swap up to a 44 front.
don't gear your SLA crap.. thats money you'll be out that COULD go toward gears for your SOLID AXLE in the future.
if you insist on the 4.56s, i'm sure that WhoreWheelParts would have them.

[FX4CRAWLER]

Ok , I will just put my original question in a new format.

Right now i have a Ranger FX4 Level 2, it is stock. I will be doing a SAS AFTER the warranty expires. When i do the SAS i will have a D44 up front, what gearing do you recommend for 35/36s on the d44. I am also wondering where i can find gears for the d35 SLA IFS...not for my truck! And the selectable locker for the d35-sla-ifs. once again i am being curious.
I got the $3000 for parts labor etc. I am not the most mechanically inclined person, for example i can change the fluids, do some brake work, and i can pull the heads off a Fiat. but thats about as far as it goes, so i would need to have someone do the fab work for me. hence the expense of this project.

Sorry about the misconceptions and the difficulty of my post.

Thanks for your help

[75F100]

i'm guessing you are running the 4.0???? its an ok motor but don't bog it down with 4.56's. come on they come stock with 4.10's and p235's. if you want to run 35's/36's then i would run 5.13's. remember if you add big tires, bigger axles you are adding a good amount of weight to your truck. not to forget that an agressive tread pattern and big lift adds more resistance to your truck. bla bla bla, anyways, always buy more gear than you think you might need, then you might have enough:D

[s2pid whitey]

Originally posted by FX4CRAWLER
Ok , I will just put my original question in a new format.

Right now i have a Ranger FX4 Level 2, it is stock. I will be doing a SAS AFTER the warranty expires. When i do the SAS i will have a D44 up front, what gearing do you recommend for 35/36s on the d44. I am also wondering where i can find gears for the d35 SLA IFS...not for my truck! And the selectable locker for the d35-sla-ifs. once again i am being curious.
I got the $3000 for parts labor etc. I am not the most mechanically inclined person, for example i can change the fluids, do some brake work, and i can pull the heads off a Fiat. but thats about as far as it goes, so i would need to have someone do the fab work for me. hence the expense of this project.

Sorry about the misconceptions and the difficulty of my post.

Thanks for your help

no apology necessary bud:D - i was just a tad confused. i don't know off hand of any selectable lockers for the ranger front diff- or full time lockers for that matter... BUUUUT, i'll sell ya the carrier from my ranger IFS unit that is laying on my garage floor- weld it up and stick it in... if it explodes, you can reinstall yours! :flipoff2: if doesn't "splode, then keep wheelin it!:D i am sure you can probably pick up the gears from:
randy's ring and pinion- 1-877-349-1367
or
genuine gear- 1-800-421-1050
since its an FX4 i assume you have the 4.0L... i think 4.56 will be fine for 35s or 36s... thats what i have now with a 3.0L and its fine... 35s and 4.56... i am regearing to 4.88s and 36s just bc i don't have to drive more than 2000 hwy miles a month, and i would rather be better on the trail and shitty on the road than vice versa... but i'm dumb and have my priorities messed up- 4.56s should be pretty damn good for what you need.
the ranger SAS was not EASY- but the process was not real difficult and i would encourage you not to drop $3000 on a swap that cost me about 1/6 of that... you have time to make friends and learn how to fab before you pay off your ranger.

[s2pid whitey]

Originally posted by 75F100
i'm guessing you are running the 4.0???? its an ok motor but don't bog it down with 4.56's. come on they come stock with 4.10's and p235's. if you want to run 35's/36's then i would run 5.13's. remember if you add big tires, bigger axles you are adding a good amount of weight to your truck. not to forget that an agressive tread pattern and big lift adds more resistance to your truck. bla bla bla, anyways, always buy more gear than you think you might need, then you might have enough:D
dude! you want this guy to put 5.13s in his pumpkins? for 35s???? he can run 33s on those 4.10s and do 95MPH easy- i ran 90MPH on 33s, with a 3.0L and 3.73s for a long time at about 2300-2500 RPM... and still did half decent on the trail... just needed a little more skinny pedal than the guys with lower ratios. he will not be bogged down with 4.56s and 35s- that keeps him VERY CLOSE to his powerband...
5.13s and 35s would send him WAY OVER his power band... he'd be pushing well over 3000 RPM in overdrive on the highway at normal speed... thats bad wear on the rig and fuel econ will blow...
your advice isn't bad- just misplaced i think- i really doubt this guy is into wheeling that would require gearing that low... this looks to me like a daily driver that will hit the trails on the weekends... :D

[75F100]

sorry, just giving my calculations. they say 4.88's would put you back at a nearly same rpm at hwy speeds. but, if you add in the tread design of the tire( all-terrains vs. boggers) then add for the extra weight of all the new componets, the 5.13's would be a wise choice.

ps: my DD is a honda that cruises @ 3500-4000 rpms on the hwy:D , in OD.

[s2pid whitey]

Originally posted by 75F100
sorry, just giving my calculations. they say 4.88's would put you back at a nearly same rpm at hwy speeds. but, if you add in the tread design of the tire( all-terrains vs. boggers) then add for the extra weight of all the new componets, the 5.13's would be a wise choice.

ps: my DD is a honda that cruises @ 3500-4000 rpms on the hwy:D , in OD.
its cool dude, but 5.13s are LOW... i know i don't have the heuvos to run them on a daily driver... and i doubt many ppl do.
your honda is a 4banger butthead:flipoff2: naturally it turns faster than a 6 cyl...
i'm tellin ya, just bc ford decided to put a lower gear in there from the factory doesn't mean you have to jump as low as you would in a rig that came with 3.55s or 3.73s... for a 3.0L or 4.0L, with 35s and overdrive, 4.56 should be pretty close to right... 4.88s are okay, but still seem a bit low.
i see how you are tryin to factor in weight of the tires, but think of it this way--if you lower the gears, you send the RPMs up... then you wanna put heavy tires on? for a daily driven rig, heavy tires and super low gears aren't a good idea.

[pavelow]

I run 4:88's in mine with detroits front and rear, and 35" tires. I have the A4LD too, mine does fine. I drive it to work everyday. Just food for thought. I have the 4.0 too.

[Paul Gagnon]

I have 4.10s and have no problems running 36s on the street or on the trail.

[75F100]

sorry, i was using 4.10's as a starting point. thats what my buddys 3.0 came with. yes if yours came with 3.55's/3.73's that would be a better option:D

[4x4junkie]

I would go 5.13 if you're going to make it a trail rig only, even one driven to the trails. The SOHC engine can tolerate a little more RPM than the older OHV 4.0.
4.56 is better if you're going to drive it on the highway mainly (duties other than 4wheeling).

Powertrax No-Slip. Only locker available for the SLA IFS D35.

[taxxman2k]

Originally posted by 4x4junkie
I would go 5.13 if you're going to make it a trail rig only, even one driven to the trails. The SOHC engine can tolerate a little more RPM than the older OHV 4.0.
4.56 is better if you're going to drive it on the highway mainly (duties other than 4wheeling).

Powertrax No-Slip. Only locker available for the SLA IFS D35.

I agree completely. I would go no lower than 4.56 for something that is still going to see the street even with 35s I ran 33s with the SOHC and 4.10s in a heavier truck no problems. He is saying it isn't his truck so I am curious if we are still talking about a ranger. I would not run 35s on a newer ranger with the IFS unless I wanted to replace hubs constantlty. Besides once you stick 35s on there and Ford sees them if you ever have driveline problems they probably won't honor the warrentee anyway.

That is just my opinion.

[2002 FX4 Ranger]

I must disagree with the concensus saying 4.56.

I have an 02 FX4 and OE was 4.10's with 31's. Several guys have bumped up to 4.56's with 33's and say it is perfect.

Rerard (Kjell) is running 36" TSL's with 4.88's with a 4.0 OHV and was talking about going to a taller gear.

I would try 4.88's.

[Rerard]

yah im running 4.88s with 36s and im not sure if I like it.. I think ill prolly just leave the diffs alone for now and get an atlas that way I can get lower gearing without affecting my freeway ride.

As for $500 to SAS an SLA ranger, I would love to see the parts list for that one.. I think I spent more than 500 on just metal, nuts+bolts, and welding rod.

[s2pid whitey]

Originally posted by Rerard
yah im running 4.88s with 36s and im not sure if I like it.. I think ill prolly just leave the diffs alone for now and get an atlas that way I can get lower gearing without affecting my freeway ride.

As for $500 to SAS an SLA ranger, I would love to see the parts list for that one.. I think I spent more than 500 on just metal, nuts+bolts, and welding rod.
here you go. this is VERY CLOSE, but not exact... i'd say accurate to within $20
$150 for the axle, complete
$115 for springs
$40 u bolts and spring plates
$55 for factory YJ hangers
$17 for crappy o'reilly shackles
$50 two 3/4" heim joints
$75 on miscellaneous stuff -fluids, metal, bolts etc
$42 poly bushings
my f-150 steering box was free, via DOUG K, but i had already priced one at a junkyard for $45
the power steering pump from a 91 ranger was also free... but also was available at a junkyard here for $35
:rolleyes: SAS doesn't have to be expensive....
and i still say 4.56s are great for 35s that will see the highway any decent amount... my 4.56s and 35s put my RPMs and fuel economy back near stock...
i WILL get 4.88s for mine, but i have the smaller V6 (for now) and i plan on very little highway driving... when i need to drive somewhere i'll "borrow" a humvee from on base.
:D

[2002 FX4 Ranger]

Originally posted by s2pid whitey

here you go. this is VERY CLOSE, but not exact... i'd say accurate to within $20
$150 for the axle, complete
$115 for springs
$40 u bolts and spring plates
$55 for factory YJ hangers
$17 for crappy o'reilly shackles
$50 two 3/4" heim joints
$75 on miscellaneous stuff -fluids, metal, bolts etc
$42 poly bushings
my f-150 steering box was free, via DOUG K, but i had already priced one at a junkyard for $45
the power steering pump from a 91 ranger was also free... but also was available at a junkyard here for $35
:rolleyes: SAS doesn't have to be expensive....
and i still say 4.56s are great for 35s that will see the highway any decent amount... my 4.56s and 35s put my RPMs and fuel economy back near stock...
i WILL get 4.88s for mine, but i have the smaller V6 (for now) and i plan on very little highway driving... when i need to drive somewhere i'll "borrow" a humvee from on base.
:D

So, you are going to swap a junkyard axle under your truck and not rebuild or regear it? You bought that D30 for $150 with 4.56 gears and good hubs? Did your rear axle already have 4.56's? Are you running stock tires? Was the welding rod/wire, oxygen/acetalyne, and mixed gas free for the welding and cutting you did? Where are you finding a set of leaf springs for $115??? How about shocks? Drop pitman arm? Rear lift? New driveshaft?

[Rerard]

what about steering stabilizer and brakelines?

A complete axle with good brakes, hubs, balljoints and 4.56s for $150.. even if it is only a D30 is a pretty damn good deal and something that not everyone is gonna even be able to come close to. Hell just the gears cost almost that. Not to mention you still have to factor in a descent set of tires and your already gonna be at double your estimate right there.


:rolleyes: SAS doesn't have to be expensive....


Yes it does, if done right. No offense dude but your truck is kind of a hack job IMO... I dont mean anything bad by that im just saying most people are gonna want something a little cleaner and more complete and its not possible for under 500 unless your minig ore and smelting metal and fabbing every piece yourself.

[FX4CRAWLER]

yeah i was going off of rerards list that was on ORR.
i need to find people to help me out down the road, depending on how i do at the fair, i might have the money sooner rather than later.

[s2pid whitey]

a solid axle swap is the process of cutting out IFS/TTB and building a front suspension with a straight axle... correct? then tires, gears, and stabilizers are NOT an SAS cost. you MAY choose to lift, gear, and put bigger tires on at the same time, but those are OPTIONS you have. they have NO effect on the feasibilty of an SAS in its completion.
2000 fx4 ranger- my axle isn't from a junkyard, and i don't remember saying it was. i bought it off another bbs... i helped remove it from a YJ that was getting a 44 front. YJs don't have HUBS, so nothing to go bad there, just wheel bearings. and i CHOSE to get new seals and bearings, but it was not NECESSARY... just a formality i CHOSE to do, so those costs are irrelevant.. VERY little welding was necessary, and the cost was less than $50 after everything.... i borrowed a torch for about 15 minutes to remove the IFS... and did not use nearly enough oxy.acet to incurr costs. the leafs are BloComp as are the shocks that i did forget to mention, and all came from 4WPW... the shcoks were $30 a piece with 12" travel. actually 11.9" i think.. but once again that is bc of the LIFT i CHOSE to do when i SAS'd... i didn't have to. the driveshaft did not need to be replaced until i DECIDED to SHORTEN my wheelbase... and that also ties into wether or not the SAS'er chooses to lift the truck... front driveshafts are a dime a dozen at yards around here for $10-30.. the one thing i'd really like to change is that i DID NOT use a drop pitman arm... thats on my to do list.
.
RERARD-- i'm sorry you feel the need to be insulting. thats your business though. brakelines depend on the choice to lift, but i went with regular rubber XJ brakelines. they run perfect from ranger hardlines to YJ calipers. a stanbilizer is not necessary for a solid axle... not an SAS cost. the d30 didn't have 4.56s and still doesn't... but i managed the SAS, so i guess that proves that you don't NEED gears to SAS... you need them to wheel... don't confuse the 2... same goes for tires, which i had 5 months before i SAS'd... should i tally them up for SAS cost? what about my CD player? it went in about 2 weeks prior to SAS...
here's the deal... LIKE IT OR NOT- the bare bones process of SAS can be done for approx $500... a very NICE SAS with NEW TIRES, GEARS, LIFT, SHOCKS, STABILIZERS, etc would cost over a grand.
.
if a person (like me) really wants an SAS and has very little funds, it can be done... wheres the proof?
my truck is SAS'd... your truck is SAS'd...
same truck- but you opted for more expensive stuff- i opted for just what i needed.... and will upgrade later.

[s2pid whitey]

the only pic of my hack job that is small enough to post...

[2002 FX4 Ranger]

Originally posted by s2pid whitey
a solid axle swap is the process of cutting out IFS/TTB and building a front suspension with a straight axle... correct? then tires, gears, and stabilizers are NOT an SAS cost. you MAY choose to lift, gear, and put bigger tires on at the same time, but those are OPTIONS you have. they have NO effect on the feasibilty of an SAS in its completion.
2000 fx4 ranger- my axle isn't from a junkyard, and i don't remember saying it was. i bought it off another bbs... i helped remove it from a YJ that was getting a 44 front. YJs don't have HUBS, so nothing to go bad there, just wheel bearings. and i CHOSE to get new seals and bearings, but it was not NECESSARY... just a formality i CHOSE to do, so those costs are irrelevant.. VERY little welding was necessary, and the cost was less than $50 after everything.... i borrowed a torch for about 15 minutes to remove the IFS... and did not use nearly enough oxy.acet to incurr costs. the leafs are BloComp as are the shocks that i did forget to mention, and all came from 4WPW... the shcoks were $30 a piece with 12" travel. actually 11.9" i think.. but once again that is bc of the LIFT i CHOSE to do when i SAS'd... i didn't have to. the driveshaft did not need to be replaced until i DECIDED to SHORTEN my wheelbase... and that also ties into wether or not the SAS'er chooses to lift the truck... front driveshafts are a dime a dozen at yards around here for $10-30.. the one thing i'd really like to change is that i DID NOT use a drop pitman arm... thats on my to do list.
.
RERARD-- i'm sorry you feel the need to be insulting. thats your business though. brakelines depend on the choice to lift, but i went with regular rubber XJ brakelines. they run perfect from ranger hardlines to YJ calipers. a stanbilizer is not necessary for a solid axle... not an SAS cost. the d30 didn't have 4.56s and still doesn't... but i managed the SAS, so i guess that proves that you don't NEED gears to SAS... you need them to wheel... don't confuse the 2... same goes for tires, which i had 5 months before i SAS'd... should i tally them up for SAS cost? what about my CD player? it went in about 2 weeks prior to SAS...
here's the deal... LIKE IT OR NOT- the bare bones process of SAS can be done for approx $500... a very NICE SAS with NEW TIRES, GEARS, LIFT, SHOCKS, STABILIZERS, etc would cost over a grand.
.
if a person (like me) really wants an SAS and has very little funds, it can be done... wheres the proof?
my truck is SAS'd... your truck is SAS'd...
same truck- but you opted for more expensive stuff- i opted for just what i needed.... and will upgrade later.


You are a babbling idiotic newbie...

Exactly what springs are you going to use on you SAS if you didnt "CHOOSE" to lift the truck???
Do you think you can bolt that D30 up to your OE torsion bars or something??? Maybe some OE Aerostar coils? ( I know the axle is from a YJ).

Last time I checked, a D35 SLA yoke and a D30 yoke would not match up together. This would mean thet you would need a new driveshaft.

All that you have done in this post is A -- given FX4Crawler a ton of misinformation. AND B -- Made you sound like a certified know it all at absolutely nothing.

This post of yours has assured all of us that the first part of your name suits you well.

[ImNotRight]

I agree with whitey. I've got less than $800 into my D44 swap. Can't count tires and other options as part of the SAS process. babbling idiot or not, he is correct. my dshafts bolted right up without any mods. already had the longer shocks.. brakes/lines came with axle.. already had the hubs.. rear springs aren't part of the sas, but are part of the lift. just have to buy correct gears to match the front, which will put me right about at 1g total, not including tires. no welding costs, i have wasted a lot of $$ on hardware only to have used a few bucks worth of it, but it is being returned once i'm done. didn't need to do the wheelbearings/seals, but did anyways, and already had them also from a previous truck, so can't count that.

like he said, it's all in how you wheel and deal. yea your gunna waste a lot of money of your overly interested in the bling factor. hell it's all gunna look the same as soon as I get the truck out of the trail anyways, why waste money on paint and crap no ones ever gunna see or care about.

[Rerard]

I didnt say it couldnt be done.. I just said for 500 bucks you cannot do a SAS and do it right except if you do the mining ore/smelting metal deal but it takes a while and trust me its not worth the trouble.

As for tires, gears, lifting the rear.. whats the point of doing a SAS if you dont do those things? If you dont lift the front then your diff is gonna hit so you cannot do a SAS without lift, well unless you limit the uptravel but again if your not gonna get a lot of travel out of it then whats the point?

I mean if you really want do it cheap, why even run shocks? and why not get some $20 PNP springs? Why even bother hooking up a driveshaft? None of that is part of a SAS either right? No one says SAS means 4wd, why even have gears that match the rear, hell as long as the tires can spin without too much trouble? Hey you dont need steering either since thats not part of the axle. Hell I could do a sas for 100 bucks.

[Rerard]

Originally posted by ImNotRight
...why waste money on paint and crap no ones ever gunna see or care about.


I dont' think anyone even mentioned paint yet.. but since you brought it up, leaving all that stuff bare tends to attract rust, but maybe you guys dont have rust up in WI.

[ImNotRight]

Well, most stuff has already had some form of paint on it.. I'm just saying whats the point in makin it look pretty.

As far as whats the point in all that other junk.. Thats part of the lift in a whole. What if ya already got 6-8" lift on, it's already geared, but ya just wanna get rid of the IFS? Then none of that stuff comes into play period.. Then ya just got the front suspension to deal with.

As far as the other junk ya mentioned being rediculous.. man it's not worth even sayin shit about, people like you always find ways to be stupid.:flipoff2:

[s2pid whitey]

Originally posted by 2002 FX4 Ranger



You are a babbling idiotic newbie...

Exactly what springs are you going to use on you SAS if you didnt "CHOOSE" to lift the truck???
Do you think you can bolt that D30 up to your OE torsion bars or something??? Maybe some OE Aerostar coils? ( I know the axle is from a YJ).

Last time I checked, a D35 SLA yoke and a D30 yoke would not match up together. This would mean thet you would need a new driveshaft.

All that you have done in this post is A -- given FX4Crawler a ton of misinformation. AND B -- Made you sound like a certified know it all at absolutely nothing.

This post of yours has assured all of us that the first part of your name suits you well.
hey smart guy... before you go pretending not to be an idiot, i could have actually SAS'd and lowered the truck with stock YJ springs and a spring under set up. so lifting is still a choice ASS HAT.
if you didn't know, that d35 yoke and the dana 30 yoke matched u joints perfectly to my surprise. when exactly was the last time you checked?
NOW- what misinformation have i given???
and
i am a certified know it all about absolutely nothing ...bc---???? i was able to SAS an SLA ranger for a fraction of what others have??? or bc all my tech info thus far has been legit???
instead of calling names, back up your statements like a man, and cite examples of my misinformation and stupidity...

[s2pid whitey]

Originally posted by Rerard
I didnt say it couldnt be done.. I just said for 500 bucks you cannot do a SAS and do it right except if you do the mining ore/smelting metal deal but it takes a while and trust me its not worth the trouble.

As for tires, gears, lifting the rear.. whats the point of doing a SAS if you dont do those things? If you dont lift the front then your diff is gonna hit so you cannot do a SAS without lift, well unless you limit the uptravel but again if your not gonna get a lot of travel out of it then whats the point?

I mean if you really want do it cheap, why even run shocks? and why not get some $20 PNP springs? Why even bother hooking up a driveshaft? None of that is part of a SAS either right? No one says SAS means 4wd, why even have gears that match the rear, hell as long as the tires can spin without too much trouble? Hey you dont need steering either since thats not part of the axle. Hell I could do a sas for 100 bucks.
what makes you say it can't be done "right?" i still honestly am not comprehending your concept of right.
the point of SAS without gearing, tires or lift... like IMNOTRIGHT said- maybe a person already has those things, or doesn't want them, or can't afford them... but does want to ditch the IFS.... the SAS can be done without those things, so they are not an SAS cost.
i try to do as much as possible CHEAP- but not STUPID... of course i run shocks and steering, don't be a retard rerard... and i know its sarcasm- but seriously, its not even a valid statement of sarcasm since you DO need steering... and it is sorta part of the axle...
and SAS does NOT mean 4WD... my gears don't match, bc i decided i wanted to save for the d44. i have a 2WD sas'd ranger.
my gears are not matched.... and i didn't buy tires for the SAS-- DO I HAVE A SOLID FRONT AXLE?????
yes i do... so kindly STFU... its a losing arguement for you bc you are dead wrong... sorry. it can be done, it has been done... and for a lot less than you spent.. who's s2pid now?

[Rerard]

Whatever dude.. let me know how much you spent when your shit is actually wheelable.

BTW the whole thing about SAS is added stength and traction right? You have done neither... so OBVIOUSLY its not complete.


why?

Your d30 stuff isnt any stronger than the stock d35.

Your flex doesnt do shit for you since you cant put it in 4wd. THe whole point of flex is tires on the ground so traction, but its pointless when nothing is putting power to those tires.

[Rerard]

Originally posted by ImNotRight
...What if ya already got 6-8" lift on, it's already geared, but ya just wanna get rid of the IFS?...


That is a good point.

[2002 FX4 Ranger]

Im not right, in most cases, you would be absolutely right and I have set up a lot of trucks for guys with the infamous Ford TTb front end. They lift it and then decide to go SFA. But, in this case the guy has an SLA truck with torsion bars.

I totally agree with many other trucks it could be done. But, no way to do it right for $500.

Stupid White Guy --- Your misinformation is telling this kid that he can do a SAS on his brand new $27k truck for $500. That is not feasable. Now, the way you did it IS NOT right. Plus, the guy has already told us that he has limited knowledge and abilities. Also, he is stock height on 31" all terrains. He waants to run 35/36's. He is gonna need to lift the rear in order to clear.

Bring this topic up on the main board and see your responses.

[FX4CRAWLER]

Whooo...i leave for a week and it turned into a pissing match:rolleyes:
Anyways, yeah i want to go to 35/36s i am using a D44, i am gonna do it right, if it means taking it to a shop for a couple weeks and getting my friends to help with it i will do that, i am not going to put a $500 system in the front of my truck. With a $26K truck (although i only paid $19K) it doesnt make sense in my mind to do a half-ass job...why would i lose 4wd and not lift it, thats the whole point of me doing the sas....to perform BETTER OFF ROAD! not to be able to say "yeah man i got a solid front axle on my ranger, blah, blah, blah" but so i can say "hey, look i can do the stair steps now and crawl over vw bug sized boulders" there's a big difference. Now i am not going to call you stupid ignorant or anything else, just that you are mis-informed about the way a 4wd truck is used. S2pid whitey What you have done in my mind is absolutely useless...go buy a chevy.

[2002 FX4 Ranger]

Originally posted by FX4CRAWLER
\S2pid whitey What you have done in my mind is absolutely useless...go buy a chevy.

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

[s2pid whitey]

Originally posted by FX4CRAWLER
Whooo...i leave for a week and it turned into a pissing match:rolleyes:
Anyways, yeah i want to go to 35/36s i am using a D44, i am gonna do it right, if it means taking it to a shop for a couple weeks and getting my friends to help with it i will do that, i am not going to put a $500 system in the front of my truck. With a $26K truck (although i only paid $19K) it doesnt make sense in my mind to do a half-ass job...why would i lose 4wd and not lift it, thats the whole point of me doing the sas....to perform BETTER OFF ROAD! not to be able to say "yeah man i got a solid front axle on my ranger, blah, blah, blah" but so i can say "hey, look i can do the stair steps now and crawl over vw bug sized boulders" there's a big difference. Now i am not going to call you stupid ignorant or anything else, just that you are mis-informed about the way a 4wd truck is used. S2pid whitey What you have done in my mind is absolutely useless...go buy a chevy.
misinformed in the way a 4WD should be used?? you don't know anything about me you judgemental little ass. i have wheeled ALL OVER tx on just about every terrain there is from mud bogs to rock gardens to sand drags. all in this ranger that i am still paying on. i have shortened the wheelbase, solid axled, swapped to a manual shift t case, upgraded trannies, and have about 75* approach and departure angles... now i am by no means the best wheeler or best rig around.... far from it, but who the fuck are you or anybody else to tell me i don't know what a 4WD is for???
my rig is not USELESS- it is an incomplete 4WD system- this i admit. it WOULD BE FINISHED, but I SOLD MY D44 before i SAS'd... and had to use the d30- i DO NOT want to invest any $$ in the d30, so YES, my truck is currently 2WD. BECAUSE I KNOW what a 4WD is for, and i use mine, i do not want to use the 30- i WILL break it.
RERARD, your last post is exactly my point... the d30 is weak- thats why i'm not 4WD... i'm buying another d44 in a week or two.. gearing the 30 would be stupid.
you guys who decided to turn this thread into an unfriendly pissing match still FAIL to see that we are not that far off... you all are simply including in sas, sas, lift, gears, tires. i already had my tires and gears, so the SAS only cost me the things i listed before.... the d44 will probably cost me $200...
and for the record... i dont' THINK i said that this guy could SAS for $500- i just told him i did it for about a $500 and that his didn't need to be so expensive as he thought it would.

[2002 FX4 Ranger]

A little birdie told me that you didnt even do your swap s2pid. It has been told that Foley did it for you...

[FX4CRAWLER]

oooooh psscht psscht :bitchslap: :bitchslap: wheres that damn bitchslap smilie :)

[s2pid whitey]

actually- FOLEY and i are very good friends and have worked together on a few projects thusfar. when he is not trying to park on my ranger, HE is an INFINITELY better welder than i am, and was responsible for most of the welding. i was responsible for a great deal of the design aspect in calculating the width of the YJ spring perches vs the ranger frame width. between the two of us and other friends, we were able to SAS my truck without too much complication. ASK FOLEY who is doing a preliminary design for his new buggy right now... is it you?? noooo.... i beleive that would be me, and i will be there to help put it together.
a little bird told you? i would have told you if i knew it was pertinant to the topic. its no secret at all- he helped me last night straighten out some of the body work on my truck for insurance purposes.... he is going to help build my x cage when i finish designing it. he teaches me a lot, but make no mistake, neither he nor i did all the work on any project.
either way, i SAS'd on a budget, now all i have to do is gear the 30, OR swap in and gear a 44.
.
FX4CRAWLER- isn't that an oxymoron??? do you even have a response to my last post??? no you don't bc you realize you were dead wrong about me, and have NO chance in arguing with me... you do remember how this thread started??? you asked a dumbass newbie question like WHAT GEARS SHOULD I RUN.......thats a question you can ask the guy at 4WPW before he sells you a bunch of overpriced mall crawler bullshit. so kindly STFU you little bitch.
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2002 FX4RANGER- :rolleyes: i have knocked down 2 or 3 tech statements you have made just in this thread- and you have accused me of misinformation, yet provided no evidence of said misinformation.... in conclusion, you are both clueless and need to step away from the keyboard...
.ps-
- kinda funny that its a big deal to you that foley worked on my rig-- foley doesn't build "hack-jobs" and i bet you know that don't you? he is friends with coryL and responsible for some of the shit that comes out of CRL CUSTOMS... whose banner appears on this website. you FX4 kids are homos...
ANYWAY- i think i am done with this thread- questions or comments can be directed at me through PMs...

[2002 FX4 Ranger]

Accually, you might want to get your info straight hot rod.

I know that Foley builds good stuff. I have known him for 2 years as I have Cory.

Now, if you wanted to know. I own and operate Full Throttle Customs in Orlando. Now, I dont see the point in spending the money to put a banner on this site b/c there isnt anyon on here in my area and I hate mail order.

But, you will be able to find my banners on RRORC, ORR, and several other Ford/Ranger related sites in a few weeks. My web guy is slow and annoying.

"You FX4 kids are homo's"

Really, so what do you say about us guys with small blocked jeeps on 36's??? How about the guys with samuris with 4.7:1 low range? OK thats what I thought.

I was just trying to keep the irrevelant out of the thread. Telling the kid that he can do a SAS on his new truck for $500 is radiculous and no where did you prove any of your point.

But, I am done with this pissing match. If you have anything to say to me or to try and call me out on. You can email me.

[s2pid whitey]

Originally posted by 2002 FX4 Ranger
Accually, you might want to get your info straight hot rod.

I know that Foley builds good stuff. I have known him for 2 years as I have Cory.

Now, if you wanted to know. I own and operate Full Throttle Customs in Orlando. Now, I dont see the point in spending the money to put a banner on this site b/c there isnt anyon on here in my area and I hate mail order.

But, you will be able to find my banners on RRORC, ORR, and several other Ford/Ranger related sites in a few weeks. My web guy is slow and annoying.

"You FX4 kids are homo's"

Really, so what do you say about us guys with small blocked jeeps on 36's??? How about the guys with samuris with 4.7:1 low range? OK thats what I thought.

I was just trying to keep the irrevelant out of the thread. Telling the kid that he can do a SAS on his new truck for $500 is radiculous and no where did you prove any of your point.

But, I am done with this pissing match. If you have anything to say to me or to try and call me out on. You can email me.
ok ok, one last post then i'm done with this.... what can i say i'm addicted. don't waste your time with rrorc... seems that bobody is ever on there anymore anyway... what do jeeps and sami's have to do with my comments?? i was referring specifically to the 2 of you with FX4 in your name as homos... i have no beef with the FX4 package in general. i understand that some of you wanted to keep this kid from thinking he could sas for $500... thats understandable... but on the flipside of that coin, i want to dispell the myth that an SAS has to be massively complicated and expensive. maybe i'll meet you if i get stationed in FL next year... i'm a much nicer guy in person as i am sure you are, and do not enjoy making enemies with my keyboard... i am done with this thread... my PM box is always open.

[Rerard]

Im actually even more of an asshole in person

[FX4CRAWLER]

Ok, its over but just to say because i was gone, no i didnt respond to what you said because what i wrote was a hell of a lot funnier than fucking around a parts book and that bullshit...
also why couldnt you have said this in the first place "it is an incomplete 4WD system- this i admit. it WOULD BE FINISHED, but I SOLD MY D44 before i SAS'd... and had to use the d30- i DO NOT want to invest any $$ in the d30, so YES, my truck is currently 2WD"

ok thats it, and by the way, you may know more about trucks then i do but if you ever want to call me a little bitch or a fx4 homo kid you better make sure you aint around me when im off duty because, well, i can find a reason to 'cuff anybody. "well sarge, he was smoking a joint and then when i talked to him he assaulted me" hello night in jail. J/K :D

And NO I AM NOT THREATING YOU, THAT WAS A JOKE!:p

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