Progress Index:
1. Bought a 1976 F350 Special delux camper with motor $500, sold motor $500 scraped the truck FREE dana 70. Rebuilt the dana 70. Page 1 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=1)
2. Bought some 37-1250R16.5 Good year wrangler MT hummer tires at local mil-yard 90% tread $60 each:D Page 1 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=1)
3. Bought a 79 F350 Dana 60 in Forsale forum, Wisconsin, $1000 shipped. Then Re built the dana 60, brakes, seals... Page 1 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=1)
4. Bought High steer arm from Scott,@ Rockstomper. Page 1 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=1) 5. Steve on the board built me some DOM links for the steering Page 1 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=1)
STARTED THE BUILD
5. The rear section of roof was chopped off the 2dr cherokee and taken off the road. 04/2003 Page 1 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=1)
6. Gass tank was re-located through the floor. 19.25X32in hole. Page 1 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=1)
7. Made 1/4in skid for dana 60 diff cover. Page 2 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=2)
8. The 4.5in box tube sub-frame is welded on the cherokee.Page 2 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=2)
9. Got the Tube bender PROtools105, Rockbuggy supply $560 Page 2 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=2)
10. The Dana 60 and dana 70 I welded (spooled)
11.The Dana 60 leaf mounts, shackle hangers, shackles, Ubolts, plates are complete.Front leafs are XJ rears with a Pro comp YJ 4in lift main leaf, 3in lift over the stock XJ pack. 08/18/03
Page 3 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=3) Page 4 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=4)
12. Drilled XJ Pittman arm with 5/8in Masonry bit, then reamed to fit the 1ton tierod ends. 08/18/03 Page 4 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=4)
13. installed the JB SYE kit
14. Flat cross member/skid done 09/23/03 Page 4 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=4) Page 5 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=5)
15. Shortened front drive shaft 1.5in used a 1310 to 1330(small cap) U-joint adaptor for the dana 60.
16. Made the rear drive shaft, welded on a new 1350 slipspline and 1350 Ujoint at the dana 70. Modified a 1310 double carden (CV) with a flange end, total drive shaft costs about $300 with junk yard donors. 09/23/03
17. Bought 36in steel braded brake lines for the front with 3/16in adaptors on the ends to fit the hard lines. Did a 12in long extension on the rear brake lines. about $67 in parts. 09/23/03
18. Installed 1980 E350 Brake MC.
19. Street tested, no vibes at 75MPH, the rear is stiff with a high unsprun to sprung weight ratio. (the cage weight will help) Page 5 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=5)
20. trimmed... rear fenders. Page 5 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=5)
22. Painted body with italian olive color (olive drag green), Oil based rust stop paint $23 Some Trail testing PICS Page 5 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=5)
23. Sliders are built 11/29/03 Page 6 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=6)
24. Dove tailed the back 12in with tube hoop around back, CAGE Pics. 01/05/03 Page 7 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=7)
Second shake down trial run, semi cagedVideo 1, The notch, steering wont trun left (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1539) Video 2 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1538) Video 3 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1537)
Video 4 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1542) Video 5 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1541) Video 6 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1551) Video 7 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1555) Video 8 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1554)
25. Hydraulic ram 1.5in bore 8in stroke, 3/4in shaft from www.surplusscenter.com $94 shipped. 02/18/04 Page 8 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=8) Tech Writeup 1 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/tech/Hydro_info/DIY_HydraulicRamAssist.htm)
26. Steering box rebuild kit and Hydraulic lines from www.westtexasoffroad.com $100 shipped. Steering done 02/23/04 Page 8 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=8) Tech Writeup 2 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/tech/Hydro_info/DIY_saginawrebuild.htm)
27. 14bolt traded for d70 Page 9 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=9)
28. 42in TSLs arrived. Page 9 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=9)
29. 5.13 gears front and rear, 14bolt disk brake swap,14bolt welded Page 10 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=10)
30. Rear 4link and Zj rear coils 09/27/04Page 10 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=10) Page 11 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=11)
31. Air over Hydraulic Rear Suspension research (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261171) Page 11 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=11)
32. Pictures: Toyota leafs, new mounts on front, ready for AZ4wd MarathonPage 12 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=12&pp=25)
Rear 4link Model calculated Anti squat "Triaged " 4link model(Excel 4-link calculator (http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/files/4BarLinkV3.0.zip)) page12 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=12)
33.Rock sliding and pinning me on AshCanyon 11/27/04 VIDEO (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2872) Page 13 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3448033&posted=1#post3448033)
34. 1996 AW4 Cherokee Automatic, and Np205 case purchased
35. AW4 to 203 to 205 doubler research And Pic of my rig from MagazinePage 14 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3646518#post3646518)
36. Some last Wheelin pics and Video (http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/albums/Ashman/100_0305.mov) with the 4.0, Started the V8 350 swap. Page 15 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4184528#post4184528)
37. Chevy 203 to For 205 doubler Page 16-17 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=16)
38. Hydraulic Steering, Custom Hummer double beadlocks, Propane injection, Coil overs (spring rate calculator) (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215114) 2.5in ADS 16in coil overs with 100#/200# for rear 650-677 Per corner rear weight, but now plans to use on front with different coilsPage 18 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=18)
39. Shackle in front leafs SUCK Video of carnage VIDEO UP KISSING ROCK (http://wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=6024) VIDEO DOWN KISSING ROCK, BENDS THE LEAF (http://wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=6026) VIDEO UP "local" DUMP BUMP WITH BENT LEAF (http://wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=6030) Page 19 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=19)
40. Front 4link build, parts from www.ballisticfabrication.com
Dana 60 truss, Coilover Hoops Page 19-21 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=19)
41. PICS and VIDEO from 2006 AZ marathon VIDEO Part1 (http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2960948232330229863) VIDEO Part2 (http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6364678318649996393) Page 21 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=21)
42. 2007 Chili Challenge, Extremely broke d60 shaft, Then alloys and broke warn 35spline hubsPage 22 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=22)
43. Alloy USA D60 shafts do not fit Ford 78-79 Dana 60, clearanced shafts
2007 Az Undertaker Marathon 11 of the 16 trails.Page 23 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=23)
44. Modify a d70 35spline spicer drive slug to work with a warn hub cover
2008 Chili Challenge
Removed the Air RAMS for some 2in Fox Air shocksPage 25 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=25)
45. Old 350 pulled due to over ehating issues Page 26 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=26)
46. Second Motor Swap progress, 383, flat top pistons. 260H cam, Edelbrock heads, 10.9:1 compression estimated 400-440 HP. Page 28 (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139642&page=28)


PIC Feb 2008:
Trip Video WAZ at Chile Challenge: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8qODvnkr0I
Slide show WAZ CC 08 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4LpAIGnTxQI
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=8593

Older 2005 Air ram Pics:
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/low.jpg
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/High.jpg

Baby pictures:
http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/ashman/dave88jeepfrontps.jpg
First "rock crawl"
http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/ashman/Jeep_two.jpg

1 Ton REV I
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1165

1 Ton REV II
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/Rear_diagnal.jpg

http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/ashman/D60_inwork.jpg

Notched the housing to fit normal leaf sprign u-bolts
http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/ashman/d60_painted_notched.jpg

Here is the diff cover Im making for the d60 front..
I used a 12ton press to bend the 1/4in plate. Its jsut spotwelded cause I ran out of wire for my mig...
It should look good when its all done..

1979 F350 D60
http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/ashman/dana_60.jpg
http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/ashman/ford1979d60_dimensions.jpg

1976 F350 D70
http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/ashman/f350_axle.jpg
rear with d70 65in WMS,
its not too wide..

The d60 is all clean, all the old parts and new parts are in bags waiting to be assembled...

I chose to do Tierod ends over spherical bearings..

The arm is from scott at rockstomper, and Ebsteve tapped the tube for me.

The outers are all cleaned and ready to be put back on...

I chose to swap out the factory 1/2in studs with some 9/16in studs..

Ill just run the facory dana 60 shafts with the 30 spline outers for now. They should hold up to these 37s with the gearing I dont have...

The dana 70 has 35 spline shafts with non neckdown so that needs no upgrades, unless I went to rear disks...ill try these HUGE drums first..

Not bad.

Can't wait to see it when you get further along.

So you doing half exo, half internal cage or all one way?

Ken C

Looking sweet! I wish I had a 2 door, would make trimming and hacking to top off way easier. With the two door converted into the "cheromanche" there is really only room for a raised gas tank and a spare. Looks like your XJ is gonna have some beef to it, I like it ;}. Only thing I have to say is watch out for tearing your unibody to pieces, but I am sure you got something planned out for that;) My 9" is going in this week so hopefully my XJ will be back rolling on 37's again soon too.

Originally posted by BRUISER
Not bad.

Can't wait to see it when you get further along.

So you doing half exo, half internal cage or all one way?

Ken C

Ill have tube to protect and hold the flimsy fender on the front and rear. moslty tube..so it it exo or tube fenders?

kinda both..

The front cabin will be exo to protect the front windshield, but the C-hoop for the rear bucket seats will be internal and tie into the rear tube fenders I havent cut yet..

Looks awesome, keep us posted!

Looks good... Motivates me to get a job and finish my 44/60 axle project!
Scott

Looks real good Dave, makes me wanna work on my crap.:beer:

Looks good man, makes me want to keep the one i just bought.


Good Luck, keep us posted.

Dave,
Are you selling that cherokee you just bought?? WHY?????
Scott

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ
rear shot,

its not too wide.. What have you done to the 70? Gears and locker wise? Just got one of those 70's, it's FF, 354's and 32 spline and for sale, the detroit for it is kinda pricey and what are doing for master cylinder? Will take a lot of fluid to get the brakes to work, good anyway. Jim

Originally posted by papastoy
What have you done to the 70? Gears and locker wise? Just got one of those 70's, it's FF, 354's and 32 spline and for sale, the detroit for it is kinda pricey and what are doing for master cylinder? Will take a lot of fluid to get the brakes to work, good anyway. Jim

Well its not just like mine :D, mines 35 spline and has 4.10 factory gears..The front has 4.10 gears also. My cherokee came with 3.07 gears, I ran 32in tires on those 3.07s, these 37s will be about the same gearing as those 32s, not great but will work for now.

Those gears are keepers for now, later Ill upgrade the gears.
For lockers Im doing welded spidergears front and rear..
The d60 has lockouts so no problem there. I daily drove over 3000 miles on my dana35 with the gears welded so I see problem with it in a HUGE dana70.

For MC I bought the 84 E350 MC its was like $17 new with core trade in. I traded in a MC off a F350 truck, completely different..
http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/ashman/E350_MC.jpg
I got adaptors so the factory lines will bolt up to this MC and all I need to do is drill the mounting holes out to 9/16in, there 1/2in right now..

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


Well its not just like mine, mines 35 spline and has 4.10 factory gears..Teh fornt has 4.10 gears also. My cherokee came with 3.07 gears, I ran 32in tires on those 3.07s, these 37s will be about the same gearing as those 32s, not great but will work for now.

Those gears are keepers for now, later Ill upgrade the gears.
For lockers Im doing welded spidergears front and rear..
The d60 has lockouts so no problem there. I daily drove over 3000 miles on my dana35 with the gears welded so I see problem with it in a HUGE dana70.

For MC I bought the 84 E350 MC its was like $17 new with core trade in. I traded in a MC off a F350 truck, completely different..

I got adaptors so the factory lines will bolt up to this MC and all I need to do is drill the mounting holes out to 9/16in, there 1/2in right now.. Thanks for the info, still haven't ruled the 70 out, just leaning a little more toward something lighter, a 9 inch or 60. Have had good luck with the hp 44 front, and if I go lighter can keep it and my beadlocks, damn decissions, and as always not enough $. Jim

The Hummer 37s next to my old little 32s.
http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/ashman/tires_old_new.jpg

What do you guys think of my cage design?
lets see if this link works...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p03c33eb9e313ffb6e6bdafa28ac72daa/fc2fe0e1.jpgClick for larger pic (http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290196423&p=4230996193&idx=1)

Doesn't look like those rear shocks are going to do you much good at all. You might want to figure out a way to bring them a little further out on the body or out on both the body and axle. (latter probably better)

How wide are you outside tire to outside tire in the rear? It looks like you have the hummer wheels with stock BS? And you are running them turned around, small offset towards the diff? I would think that would make for a pretty wide setup.

Originally posted by HybridPOS
Doesn't look like those rear shocks are going to do you much good at all. You might want to figure out a way to bring them a little further out on the body or out on both the body and axle. (latter probably better)

I dont think he has the lower shock mounts welded on yet. There just hanging there on the stock upper mounts

Awsome project. You might consider running your upper shock mounts all the way up to the cage, if you run out of room underneith ? Just a suggestion. Also I dont know how your tieing the front cab cage into the body, but you could always rebuild the rock rails with some 2" x 6" rectangular tube and come down with the cage into the top of the rock rails. again just a suggestion.

Good Luck

LOL, nevermind. I was on my laptop when I saw that the first time. I can tell now on a 20 inch monitor that the shocks are just hanging there below the axle. Sorry bout that....

Originally posted by Brad Smith
Awsome project. You might consider running your upper shock mounts all the way up to the cage, if you run out of room underneith ? Just a suggestion. Also I dont know how your tieing the front cab cage into the body, but you could always rebuild the rock rails with some 2" x 6" rectangular tube and come down with the cage into the top of the rock rails. again just a suggestion.

Good Luck

Yup...

After cutting the hole for the gass tank, and cuttign part of the shock moutns off, I need to make a new upper mount.

I do plan to do just as you said, Ill make a cross bar as part of the cage that the shocks will tie into..

Im ordering my JD2M3 tube bender today!

I also will re-build new slider, Im gonna just use some 250 walled 2in HREW tube for the slider then tie the 120 walled 2in HREW cage into that...

On the weekend I picked up 200lbs of box tube to sleve my frame with.. It will be 1/4in when Im done...

I have to weld all that on before the cage..

Holly Crap thats alot of Steel. What will that do for your center of gravity? Lots of luck and keep us posted.

Cool, now the body looks like mine, good to finally see another Two-door XJ hacked, er chopped.

Originally posted by scope
How wide are you outside tire to outside tire in the rear? It looks like you have the hummer wheels with stock BS? And you are running them turned around, small offset towards the diff? I would think that would make for a pretty wide setup.

Im running hummer tires, you dont need hummer rims to run the tires... Those are Waggon wheels, no beadlocks right now...

The width pictured is 77in from outer tire to tire. The other set of rims I have i will put on the rear so it will be 79in wide..

The front I have all apart to weld up the spider gears but it is 81in wide with the more back spaced rims that are currently on the rear in that pic..

81in front 79in rear for now...

I think when I make my humemr rims with new centers Ill make it alittle wider.. I want to wheel it like this and see how I like the width..

I love hte looked of chopped 2 doors. :D

ashman, thanx for the motivation, i needed that. I started mine a few months ago, but lost interest when the ex hit me up for more child support money. anyway, mine is totally stripped in the rear, undergoing major surgery. Again thanx. By the way, yours looks really cool, and the cage design definitely looks like a lot of work, but well worth it in the end.;)

Originally posted by mtndewmaniac
ashman, thanx for the motivation, i needed that. I started mine a few months ago, but lost interest when the ex hit me up for more child support money. anyway, mine is totally stripped in the rear, undergoing major surgery. Again thanx. By the way, yours looks really cool, and the cage design definitely looks like a lot of work, but well worth it in the end.;)

Have fun...

I got some project time over the weekend. I made some frame sleves out of 4in BOX to beef up the factory unibody. Got the factory tranny cross memeber off control arm mounts cut off. And about half the box tube cut and tacked into place...
Ill finish the frame then need to buidl a new corss memeber, my rubber si shot.. then Ill start the cage. My bender should arrive in afew more days:D

Ill take some pics of the frame when Im done..

I started on relocating the rear leaves inboard onto the frame, welded in some "L" brackets for the spring hangers, in process of reinforcing the frame, picked up some chevy leafsprings but I still need to calculate the spring rate to get the right balance of flex and load. I just picked up a cheapy Harbor freight bender, test bent some tube, and it'll take a bit of work, but it'll work out. I'm only running a D44 rear and a HP D44 up front for now. Again, thanx for your motivation.

Nice work.

Can't wait to see some more pics/progress, looking awesome so far. I was originally going to go topless on my XJ but I'm too cheap to buy a tube bender at this time.

Jordan

I have more progress pics but dont have a star any more...

The sub frame needed to make a cherokee worthy of getting a full cage, and heavy axles and tires is for sure the toughest part of building a cherokee. It sucks working under it all the time....the cherokee is non-ideal for this...I should have built a yota or a YJ like everyone else.:flipoff2:

Sub frame is like 80% complete:

Looks like I have enough leafs? thanks eric and rick.

And I got my Tube bender in...Thanks Allen (rock buggy supply), Check out my stand, I got the 1/2in plate upper and the lower circles for $0.20 a lb pluss 20% off at the local metal yard!! $15 or so..

Also spent the pennies to get a cutting torch attachement for my oxy/acet torch, and finally filled the tanks. That should help this weekends hours on that sub frame..


EDIT: pics, not links...:D
http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/ashman/Subframe_DS.bmp
http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/ashman/subframe2.bmp
http://fouralarm.tigerteam.net/ashman/subframe_PS2.bmp

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ
I have more progress pics but dont have a star any more...

The sub frame needed to make a cherokee worthy of getting a full cage, and heavy axles and tires is for sure the toughest part of building a cherokee. It sucks working under it all the time....the cherokee is non-ideal for this...I should have built a yota or a YJ like everyone else.:flipoff2:

Sub frame is like 80% complete:


You have done a lot of work welding this sub frame, but it looks pretty good. The only thing is the additional weight or do you think it doesn't matter !

Originally posted by AUR-JX20


You have done a lot of work welding this sub frame, but it looks pretty good. The only thing is the additional weight or do you think it doesn't matter !

I purchased about 200lbs of metal for the sub frame...$0.20 a lb,
but its all is not on the cherokee yet.

but I expect about 250-300lbs of exra weight after I make the front winch bumper the new flat cross memeber, and finish reinforcing the leaf spring mounts.

The weight is low so Im not worried about it.. I really wouldent feal confident making a cage that attached to the unibody.

And Im putting my Warn 8000 winch on this and I dont want to attache that to the unibody.

The weight of the HEAVY axles may have ripped the unibody but thats not a safety issue.. The subframe will be an added plus I wont need to worry about the axle weight.

Dave, I'd keep your width down to what you have now. I'm 84" to the outside of my fronts and it's just a little too wide. If I wouldn't have screwed myself with the 15" tires, I'd be running hummer rims.

I wrapped my frame with 3/16" rectangular tubing and it was one of the smarter things I did. There is no unibody once you chop the top, so it's a requirement.

Easy

Looks good dude! Can't wait to see it finished.
Scott

Originally posted by EasyXJ
Dave, I'd keep your width down to what you have now. I'm 84" to the outside of my fronts and it's just a little too wide. Easy

YEA? so you think the 81 front 79 rear is good. Its what I got so Ill run it and see. like you said Hummer rims with cdifferent back space are in the CARDS..may keep its current width... Ill need some trail time to tell.

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ
[B It sucks working under it all the time....the cherokee is non-ideal for this...I should have built a yota or a YJ like everyone else.:flipoff: [/B]
You don't mean that....do you?! :flipoff2: Trust me Dave, you'll love it when your XJ takes all the attention away from those YJ's! ;)

Originally posted by jeep94xj

You don't mean that....do you?! :flipoff2: Trust me Dave, you'll love it when your XJ takes all the attention away from those YJ's! ;)

good deal on the F350 part truck you got....

I Edited those links with pics..they should be better.

Looking good so far!

With the subframe in place its time to make front spring mounts and get that dana 60 on there, but first I have to weld up the spider gears and put it together.. Did the dana 70 adn dana 60 at the same time..

I pre heated with my propane torch till they were hot, well the 110+ tucson weather helps pre-heat too..

Check out how HUGE the dana 70 spider gears are next to the dana 60!!!
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/d60_d70.jpg

This pic looks bad... dana 60 welded up. The welds between the sider gears were REALLY clean, I also welded to the carrier to take the load off the center pin. I did not tap after each weld like I did last time I welded up my gears But I hard to cracking so it should be fine...I covered the ring gear and bearings with tin foil and ducktape before welding.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/d60.jpg

Dana 70
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/d70_spooled.jpg

Check this out, the dana 70 has a smaller opening on the back side...I was still able to weld up the gears but it was really difficult to weld to the carrier.. I dont think Ill have any issues its SO HUGE!.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/d70_smallside.jpg

I kept the drums on my D70 too. I'm not sure if you're planning to run parking brakes, if so, I put a post on the Ford forum with details of what it takes. Basically the F250 pieces work with the F350 once you drill the pivot pin. Also, used cables from the shortest wheelbase and the trick is:

I swapped linkage from right to left and ran the cables out the rear. Fit is good on my Cj-7. You may want to use cables from a longer wheelbase version.

Next was Ubolts on the axles...

The Dana 70 takes 3.5in inner diamater U-bolts
The Dana 60 origionally used the square u-bolts and pointed them down, So I cut out some of the castign on the drivers side and now the U-bolts pint up.

Used three 3in U-bolts and one 3.5in U-bolt. The 3.5in was tight over the casting and a 3.75 might have been better. Alittle grinding and the 3.5in fit.

Chad did the cutting, I did some welding on his rig.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=477


Ugly pic again, but the dana 60 is put together...
my dana 60 I think was missing one spindle nut when I bought it so Ill wait to get one before puttign the hubs back on.


http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=476


I also tried to drill out a XJ pittman arm and ream it to fit the 1ton rod ends, all this did was dull up my 5/8in drill bit.. I might need to get a machine shop to tackle that for me.

also I rented a pittman arm puller from checker.. and it broke (factory pittman arm still stuck on the cherokee).

Parts money ended this week... refinancing the house this month so should get more funds soon.

Originally posted by Kreep
I kept the drums on my D70 too. I'm not sure if you're planning to run parking brakes, if so, I put a post on the Ford forum with details of what it takes. Basically the F250 pieces work with the F350 once you drill the pivot pin. Also, used cables from the shortest wheelbase and the trick is:

I swapped linkage from right to left and ran the cables out the rear. Fit is good on my Cj-7. You may want to use cables from a longer wheelbase version.

Yea Ill use the Ebrake.. plenty to build before that...

Slow and low, that is the temp po..

Looks like a Comanche now :D :beer:

awesome rig :beer: :beer:

Dave, that looks sweet! I wish I were there to see it. Have you started on the cage? That subframe looks great, lots of work.

Kevin

that thing is badass, i like the subframe, i was considering doing something similiar on my jeep, just to help the weak unibody. even though i just have a dana 30 and dana 44 with 32's right now, i still think it is probably a good idea. awsome progress though, keep posting pics.
joe

Originally posted by KevinM
Dave, that looks sweet! I wish I were there to see it. Have you started on the cage? That subframe looks great, lots of work.

Kevin

Nope, need brake lines, and drive shafts, then I can order some tube...The cage will be a fun project, probibly in september, and it will be less HOT!!

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


Nope, need brake lines, and drive shafts, then I can order some tube...The cage will be a fun project, probibly in september, and it will be less HOT!!


So you gonna make exo or internal around cab and then exo at back??


Ken C

Originally posted by BRUISER

So you gonna make exo or internal around cab and then exo at back??
Ken C

I want to keep the front windshield and have doors as an option. SO Id like to build my cage to protect the front windshield and protect the door jams. I also want to make a perminent Interior cross bar to protect my legs when the doors are off.

The rear will be more of a tube fender then an exo cage, I want to keep it as narrow as I can.

The front Im not sure yet how much fender if any i will keep.

Thats kinda final finish up work..Probibly will take me till winter to really get to that stuff.

That will be the really fun part.

ashman, what prep did you do to the frame rail? I've often thought of doing this(well partly anyway) to mine, but I've wondered about water getting between the two pieces of metal and rusting out the frame rail. Did you just clean the portion where your welds would be? or did you clean the entire rail underneath the box? Just really curious. Thanks

Ary

Edit: BTW, looks GOOOD

Originally posted by Arya Ebrahimi
ashman, what prep did you do to the frame rail? I've often thought of doing this(well partly anyway) to mine, but I've wondered about water getting between the two pieces of metal and rusting out the frame rail. Did you just clean the portion where your welds would be? or did you clean the entire rail underneath the box? Just really curious. Thanks

Ary

Edit: BTW, looks GOOOD

I grinded the down the old frame, what a mess it was... smells bad too.. Id say I grinded abut 60-70 percent of it and got it really clean where my weldeds would. the sub frame is not 100% welded to the uni-frame, its alot of 3-4in tack welds. When its complete I will seal it and paint it. In arizona rust is not a big issue...but i did think about it and though I could drill some drain hole in the bottom just in case....

Some pics from today, maby tomarrow It will be a rollign chassis again?:D

I made these nice U-bolt plates. There 1.4in thick with 1in long 1/4in sides to prevent it from bending. the sides also help keep the u-bolts square to the leafs... yea my U-bolts need another 1in of threads... Ill fix that next weekend.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=503

The dana 60 is under there to mark where Ill put the leaf mounts and shackle...MAN is the FRONT wide!!! I think there is abotu 1.5in of tire in my well!! I think Ill need to buy some wheel spacer for the rear, as pictured the 65wms rear has 1in less BS rims.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=502

I think my ride height might be close to that. My shackle will be 5.5in (kinda long) and I think with the weight on it it will sag to about flat and sit at this height...

Tomarrow Ill get some pipe to put my bushing in for my shackle mount and get soem bolts for the shackle, and drill my 1/2in thick shackles and mounts. weld it up...

then on to drive shafts, brakes and stuff...:D
If the re-fi on the house goes though fast enough Ill be drivable in august!! Shaweeta.


Daves done for today.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=501

Ashman, are you running the stock XJ brake lines and diaphgram? I read about the larger MC you're running, but I didn't see anything about new brake lines or diaphgram. I'm trying to get an idea of what I'll need to run. I've got the E350 MC but that's all for now.

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ
I got adaptors so the factory lines will bolt up to this MC and all I need to do is drill the mounting holes out to 9/16in, there 1/2in right now..

Ha...what an idiot, there's the answer to one of the questions. :rolleyes: Guess I read too fast. However, are you still running the stock booster?

Hey Dave, cut off those LONG ASS u-bolts and fawkin wheel it! :flipoff2: I remember "someone" telling me that. :D

Dave that looks sweet! Didn't you say that some of the wheels you had had different backspacing? Looks like the project is going well, should be ready for the hammers soon :D

Kevin

Originally posted by sk8zero


Ha...what an idiot, there's the answer to one of the questions. :rolleyes: Guess I read too fast. However, are you still running the stock booster?

I think i listed the adaptors and part numbers you need to adapt it to your existing lines. It took me all day all over town to find them. Stock booster yes.

I currently have 0 brake lines. On my little lift before I was able to run the factory lines, so I jsut cut them.

Ill take a cherokee and F350 line in with me to the rod rod shop in town and have them make me some new lines..

So brakes are not tested. With no brake lines I have soapbox brakes rather then the kongfu brakes I hope to have..

Originally posted by jeep94xj
Hey Dave, cut off those LONG ASS u-bolts and fawkin wheel it! :flipoff2: I remember "someone" telling me that. :D

Yea I got the DIE from my dad to add some threads to the 9/16-18 U-bolts then I can get rid of those spacers and cut them down.

I think Im gonna need to add a leaf or so, that Xj pack is only 4 leafs it will be so soft mounted at 31.5in center to center...

I welded up my brackects last night till 11pm, I still need two 2.5in of pipe to make my bushings for the shackle, Aaron said he'd cut some up for me tonight, so Maby Tonight I can get the front off jack stands and see how low-tall it will sit with stock cherokee rears on the front!!! I cant wait...

I also drilled three holes in each frame end mount so I have adjustablility when goign to larger tires.

Originally posted by KevinM
Dave that looks sweet! Didn't you say that some of the wheels you had had different backspacing? Looks like the project is going well, should be ready for the hammers soon :D

Kevin

Yea I re-measured last night and I do have the less BS rims on the back. My tape measure still says Im 5in narrower in the back..
The rear is 65in wms the front is 70wms... With these rims I should only see 1.5in of more tire on teh front but its alot more then that.

I think Ill have to run 2in spacer on the rear. thats just money, I have plenty to build for now...

So, you gonna have this thing ready to roll into Moab in Oct?

I'd leave your axle/ tire widths the way they are for now. I prefer a much narrower rear axle so that it tracks inside the front tires going around the big rocks and such.

Easy

lets see some pictures of your spring hangars! I'm swapping leafs to the front of my MJ as we speak using rear MJ main leafs. I have the front crossmember/mounts all set-up, and I know exactly what I'm going to do for the rear shackle mount, so I should be done today. Are you doing shackle forward or at the back?

brett

Originally posted by BrettM
lets see some pictures of your spring hangars! I'm swapping leafs to the front of my MJ as we speak using rear MJ main leafs. I have the front crossmember/mounts all set-up, and I know exactly what I'm going to do for the rear shackle mount, so I should be done today. Are you doing shackle forward or at the back?

brett

Im doing shackle forward,

The Rear "frame" mounts are two 2.5in wide pieces of 1/4in plate 6in log with three holes in it for 2.5in of adjustment forward. the plates are exactly 2.75in apart on the inside.

These tabs are welded to a 4.5inX10in 1/4in thick plate. this plate is "tonight gonna be wleded" to the 1/8in thick sub frame tacked and plug welded to the "frame" where the factory LCA mounts used to be.

The front shackle hanger:
Im using a piece of 1.5in schedule 80 perfect fit for some 1.5in bushings and is .19in wall thickness. the bushings are from my old lower control arms. The LCAs were 2.5in wide but the leafs are 2.5in wide pluss overhang from the bushings so are 2.75in wide. I could not use the sleaves from the LCA bushings but found in my garage some 2.75in sleaves from a YJ leaf pack.
The jeep stuff uses a metric bolt but I got some grade 8 9/16in bolts, there a tighter fit which is good on old reused parts...

My shackles are 5.5in center to center, made from 1/2in plate 3in wide. $00.20 a lb at the local metal yard so cheep.

I have not beefed up the front cross member,but have the subframe and stuff, more 1/8in and 1.4in plate to distribute the load. Ill make a new front cross memeber when I mount my winch.

Ill try to get pics of it all tonight IF I finish it up... Ill try.

Originally posted by EasyXJ
So, you gonna have this thing ready to roll into Moab in Oct?

I'd leave your axle/ tire widths the way they are for now. I prefer a much narrower rear axle so that it tracks inside the front tires going around the big rocks and such.

Easy

Well Its free to try it, the way it is.... Ill see if it grows on me.

October? maby, it will be rolling soon, but I dont want to jump on wheeling it much till the cage is done...Im hoping the cage will go fast but nuthing else has:D


Ya know Ill hit the nieghborhood back roads and washes the second i have dirveshafts, brake lines, and some ducktape to hold the license plate on...:D

sucks, I got a cold so not any real progress. this weekend. maby monday or Tuesday Night Ill get these on.

here is the frame mount for the leafs, a 10inX4.5in piece fo plate, with the 2.5inX6in plates drilled three times, and a skid on the back.http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=515

Here are the Shackels, They are 3in wide, 5.5in hole to hole, 1.2in thick, for 9/16in bolts.

i got that pipe from aaron, THANKS. sch 80 1.5in pipe is cut to 2.5in long, 1.5in inner diamater perfice fit for the bushings I have from the LCAs, and used the YJ leaf packs sleave.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=516

Some night this week Ill get it off jack stands and see how many leafs Ill want to add to that XJ rear leaf pack.

COLDS suck.:zzz:

@ ashmanjeepXJ

I like your project very much. Cool stuff you doing !!!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by XJUSA
@ ashmanjeepXJ

I like your project very much. Cool stuff you doing !!!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

From your web page:
1999 Chevy SB350 TBI mit TH700R, 2flutige Auspuffanlage, verstärktes 231er.

So you kept the np231 with a 350-700R combo...

What is"2flutige Auspuffanlage, verstärktes" ?

Id like to run a 700r some day, but those adaptors get pricy..

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ
What is"2flutige Auspuffanlage, verstärktes" ?


I think the rough translation is:

"The fart was so large it killed the canary"

or maybe something about a

"strengthened exhaust system"

I Had good progress over the weekend.

I got the frame mounts welded on, make the shackle hangers and welded them on, added the 1in of threads to each front U-bolt, got the pittman arm off after breaking one rental puller, put the dana 70 carrier and shafts back together, Got it off jack stands Finally.

Here is the front shackle,

Its an anti kick back design. At about a 90 degree angle on the shackle at full drop the shackle will hit the plate. this will minimize breaking my leafs when I hit the shackle on rocks. The shackle at hige height is at about 55 degress. what do you think? I like it.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=548


The front is much wider then the rear,
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=547

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=546

In this picture you see the factory rear xj leafs on the front with all the weight on them, no jack stands. The rear is a 2.5in AAL and a 2in block 4.5in lift. The front has 6in from the top of the tire to the well and 9in to the body pin stripe.

The rear has 7in from the top of the tire to the well and 12in from the tire to body pin stripe.

So I want to lift the front almost 3in.

I also dont like how the current pack on the front is reversed arched with all the weight on it.

I got a pro comp 4in YJ main leaf from Aaron last night, Ill toss that in the pack some time this week.

the front is too low right now, but looking good.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=549

you just building your own front leafs? what eye to eye did you use on the front

Originally posted by INFAMOUSBUTCHER
you just building your own front leafs? what eye to eye did you use on the front

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ
In this picture you see the factory rear xj leafs on the front. The rear is a 2.5in AAL and a 2in block 4.5in lift.

I have XJ rear leafs on my front and back.

Xj rears are about 52.5 in eye to eye and have about 5.5in offset Im running the short side forward.

The pro comp 4in lift YJ main leaf is 45in eye to eye, I will cut the eyes off of it and use it as the second leaf in the XJ pack to hopefully get me about 3in taller.

What did that Dana 70 come out of? WMS to WMS? I know he said 79" from outer tire edge to outer tire edge but how about WMS?

Originally posted by HunkOJunk
What did that Dana 70 come out of? WMS to WMS? I know he said 79" from outer tire edge to outer tire edge but how about WMS?

65in wms, out of a 1976 F350 2wd SRW, special delux camper.

Free, after trading the engine in the truck for cash.

some more pics.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download/file.php?id=552

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download/file.php?id=551

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download/file.php?id=550

wow:eek: are those u bolts your bumb stops?:flipoff2:

thanks ashman, thats what im probably going to use, along with 52 inch chevys outback inboarded under the frame

Originally posted by INFAMOUSBUTCHER
thanks ashman, thats what im probably going to use, along with 52 inch chevys outback inboarded under the frame

Since the cherokee rear leafs are off set center pin, when on the front they point the axle down quite abit. I can not re-weld the spring perches cause one side is cast into the dana 60, and I did not want to twist my knuckles with the pinnion point ing down, so I bought a shim to fix the pinnion and to fix the caster.

My degree tool said Im pointing 5 degrees down, I bought a 4 degree shim, this morning. The shop in town charged $20 for the two 4 degree shims:eek: rip off. and wanted $8 per new center pin, I need a longer NEW pin to add that leaf tonight. NO way on the pins but bit-it on the shims.

I went to our copperstate bolt shop and got some 5/16in all-thread he said its stronger then grad 5 but just below grade 8. 3ft of that stuff for 3$ with grade 8 nuts.. Ill just weld two nuts on the bottom end.

With the shims I need a longer head on the center pin so it will stick through the shim and into the spring pad hole. The
all-thread I can adjust how deep it goes into the spring pad using the two nuts, where as the $8 center pin bolts would only have like 1/8in-3/16 of the head inside the pin hole of the spring pad. The two bolts on the all-thread will be much better.

I think Ill round off the corners on my shackles tonight too, and cut the extra U-bolt threads-bumpstops:D

Ooh, and a dana 60 front with no lift, will hit your exhaust, Ill have to re-wrok the exhaust around the engine.

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


My degree tool said Im pointing 5 degrees down, I bought a 4 degree shim, this morning. The shop in town charged $20 for the two 4 degree shims:eek: rip off. and wanted $8 per new center pin, I need a longer NEW pin to add that leaf tonight. NO way on the pins but bit-it on the shims.


From the different 4x4 shops I've been too, $20 really isn't that bad for steel shims, I know it sucks, they're just little hunks of steel...

And I went to a parts store one time and tried for about 10 minutes to explain to a guy what I was looking for, he must have been the dumbest person ever, but finally he just told me they don't have them.

I just flipped my leaf sprung MJ from shackle in the rear to shackle in the front, so now I need to go find some BIG ol' shims, like 8 degrees... that'll be interesting...

Hey there ashmanjeepxj, long time no hear, as my pc had crashed. I moved the rear leafs onto the frame rails, new hangers and reinforced the frame, used the chevy leaves-left four in the pack, and I went ahead and converted the front-end to leafs as well. I used the leaves from a 71 FSJ with a 6 banger. Provides the lift and articulation I was after, as well as a smooth ride. I can put thr front tire onto a 42" high rock and keep all four wheels touching. As you may remember, I had the top chopped off, since then I had built a full cage. I took on Colo's famous 21 Rd. and did it w/o any use odf a jack, tow strap or a winch. I was stoked. Keep up the updates, as soon as I get the film developed, I will post some pics.

Cherokee leafs in front dont work!!!
Yet:D

ok So I added the YJ leaves and have 3in of lift as expected, but my main XJ leaf Is warped really bad in the back..


http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=644

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=643


If I re-drill the XJ main leaf pin to center, the centered YJ leafs may fix the warp. This will move my axle 2.5in closer to the body, so Ill use my 2.5in of adjustment at the frame end, but then my shackle angle will be more then 45 degress so Ill have to move my shackle mount forward. I dont want that much hanging out front.

so option two.
Us a YJ main leaf, I have like 6 of those sitting around, then make a new frame mount 5in forward of the current one, and keep my current shakle angle.

I think the YJ main leaf will be stronger, cuase the second leaf will go eye to eye where as on the Xj main leaf the second leaf will have like 2.5in of over hang on each side. The Xj main leaf centered will have more wheel travel (FLEX) but will have more shackel hanging out front.

I think I have to rework my mounts and use the YJ mains
:confused:

It looks so good.. too.

Measurements:
Front tire to well 9in, 11.5in to body seam.
Reat tire to well 7in, 12in to body seam.
Frame to ground is 23in

I love the height. Dont like the XJ leafs.

Some progress from last weekend

Drilled the pittman arm out using a 5/8in Masonary bit, then used my tapered reimer to flare the pittman arm.

the Reamer I put in my varable speed drill, went slow, and ended up burning up the brushes on the drill.:(

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=704

I fixed the warp in the main leaf by re drilling the YJ main leaf used as my second leaf. I used a 1/16in drill bit as a start, then used a masonary bit I had, then used my metal bits in one step increments till I got the hole large enoguth for the pin.
The spring material is hard to drill so I didnt want to drill holes for the plastice sliders so I just welded the ends of antoehr leaf on them.. Ill see if they hold up.. :eek:

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=703

For spring clams I used a factory YJ leaf and cut the little tabs of the clams off, then when re assembled with my leaf pack I clamped it then tack welded the tabs back on. alot easier then bending them...

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=702

With the re-pinned second leaf and the added weld on tabs Im about 1in taller, now 12.5in from the top of tire to the body line. perfect.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=705

SUCKS,

on friday my Daily driver Toyota's cluck went out... Clutch parts took from the cherokee driveshaft and brake line money...:rolleyes:

Delays...

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=701

Does look goog. I need to develop my pics and find a PC that I can upload them onto, or get mine fixed. I chose the 71 vFSJ leafs due to their compromise on length and durability. They do flex very well-shocks being the limiting factor. The leaves have settled some due to the springover but the ride and the flex are very well worth it. I'll be back when I have access to a PC again. Good luck.

Find some other XJ main leafs that someone has taken off to through awat, cut the eyes off, and wallah you have a second leaf that is long enough to spread the load, if you need more, you can use more out of that pack or use the YJ one you already have under it, might need to redrill the hole in it to recenter it.

Any reason you're avoiding XJ lift springs?? You can pick 'em up pretty cheap used and I don't see why they wouldn't do the trick. Maybe I'm missing something.

Ary

Originally posted by Arya Ebrahimi
Any reason you're avoiding XJ lift springs?? You can pick 'em up pretty cheap used and I don't see why they wouldn't do the trick. Maybe I'm missing something.

Ary

Free... or Cheep...

I choose Free:D

Used Xj lift springs would work... Reguardless Id have to modify add a leaf to them to support the added weight of the motor...

If I had an extra set of stock XJ leafs I would use an Xj main leaf as the second leaf then toss that YJ lift leaf under that... but I dont have any more XJ packs.. I will need some XJ spairs for future repairs.

Ill have to get you guys pics of the new crossmsmber/skid Im finishing up, its really sweet..

The cross member:

first I took the factory one off and tossed it, then I cut the rubber off the tranny mount. I then welded some angle iron onto the tranny mount to make it stronger. Then I welded on some cut down F350 shackles. I hope the rubber in the shackles will be enough to dampen some vibrations.. My old rubber was ripped so I wanted to rebuild the whole thing...

Next I made a plate of 1/4in bolt up to the welded on shackles using some tabs and leaf sprign bolts I had sitting around.

Then I cut pieces of 1/4in plate to from around the Np231 and around the CAT. I like how it came out.. The crossmember has tabs on the sides so it will bolt into the sides of the new subframe. No bolts to sheer off.

PICS...

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=838

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=837

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=836

I plan to get alot done this weekend.

I've used the XJ leaves before, and they bend way too easily-I have been replacing them once every year. Gets a little old after a while. I chucked the factory Xmember a year ago, I have a 3x5 rect. tube 3/16th of an inch thick, it'll support the jeep by itself, but it does get hung up on rocks-it'll have to be modified later. Child support makes it harder to concentrate my effort and finances, so it is very slow progress.

I bolted up my drive shafts, then bolted on the cross member and started the engine.. The little bushings in the shackle work, it is not as vibration free as the factory mounts but its not noisey so it works.

After bolting the rear driveshaft up I welded the new slip spline up. I jack up the rear axle, I used coat hanger wire taped to a jack stand and pointed it close to where the Slip spline would be welded, then I spun the shaft, tapped it with the hammer when it woudl hit the wire, spun the shaft...tapped, spun...
Then I tack welded it on the low side, then tapped it with a hammer and kept spot welding it. The slip spline is cast so I pre heated it with a torch and gave coolign time between spot welds. The rear looks great, it has less then a 1/16in wobble to it at the center.

The front "factory shaft" I cut down about 1.5in, Ill weld it up tonight.

I ended up with 1310, 1330, and 1350 drive shaft parts and U-joints... Boths shafts have a 1310 CVs, the front has a 1310-1330 Ujoint adaptor with small caps to mount to that d60, the rear uses a new 1350 slip spline and 1350 Ujoint to the dana 70.
For $300 I have working front and rear CV shafts.. not all 1350 stuff but it works for now.

Im hoping to get the jeep out of the garage by this sunday..

The new brake lines I got are really nice, and those rancho 5012 13.5in travel shocks are gonna mount up nicely.

Ill get pics but my camera is acting up..

Good to hear you almost got her out of the garage. I should be pulling mine out this weekend as well. Keep up the good work:beer:

WOW,

What a great read, thanks for taking the time to post all of this!

I think you're doin a great job on that!

Dave

My digi camera is completely broke.

Last night at like 7pm, brakes blead, nuts tightended, fluid filled, the beat was built!!:D

Backed it out into the street, with neighbors watching to see what all the straight pipe noise was all about..chirp chrip chirp..

I got my first side view glance of it in the dark out of the garage...

I first noticed that 4.10 gears adn 37s arent that bad with my 5sp, much more power then my toyota:D

The rear brake shoes I could feal catching for the first 100ft, and some of my new J-uints were breaking in...

got it up to 35MPH, no vibes, no front shocks so I didnt want to go much faster on the initial test.

Whent out wheelin in the washes around the neighborhood with aaron, There is this section of wash that is full of larger chunks of concrete, I was comming down the dirt side of the was up to a 2ft tall slab, missed the tire and laneded on the tierod, I gave it some gass, stalled, so got out to see the whole weight was on the tierod. backed it up took a different line no problem, just scratched it:D

Then were ready to head home, and my hubs were stuck, locked. my front is spooled and our neighbor hood is curvey!!!no fun.

I cherped, hoped, and powersteerign swueeled my way home, jacked up the front and they un locked. Ill have to inspect them and see whats binding.


My camera is toast, but a neighbor is willing to take me some pics tonight. I have to give a department presentation tomarrow at luch, so mabe wed ill get the rolling but not finished pics up.

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


Free... or Cheep...

I choose Free:D

Used Xj lift springs would work... Reguardless Id have to modify add a leaf to them to support the added weight of the motor...

If I had an extra set of stock XJ leafs I would use an Xj main leaf as the second leaf then toss that YJ lift leaf under that... but I dont have any more XJ packs.. I will need some XJ spairs for future repairs.

Ill have to get you guys pics of the new crossmsmber/skid Im finishing up, its really sweet..

Hey bud you need some stock XJ springs, let me know there your's free. Just shipping. I don't know if you can get them cheaper there then shipping from here. But there your's if you need them.:jeep:

Originally posted by GETCHA SUM


Hey bud you need some stock XJ springs, let me know there your's free. Just shipping. I don't know if you can get them cheaper there then shipping from here. But there your's if you need them.:jeep:

Where are you? shipping to 85743 tucson arizona?
Money will have to wait till I sell some more parts or till the cage tube is bought.

I'm in montana, I'll get a quote for ya tomorrow. Do you need the whole pack, if not it could save some weight.

Thats one nice rig. I hope to read the rest of this artical of you rig build. especiay like the frame reinforcement work you did. I have learned alot from these post. hope you get it finished soon.

Would be nice to see some pics of it wheelin to see the flex and good wheelin use you get out of it..

just a noobe here readin the post ....

Originally posted by GETCHA SUM
I'm in montana, I'll get a quote for ya tomorrow. Do you need the whole pack, if not it could save some weight.

yea I really only need the main leaf, the others should not brake..

Pics!! :D


The cross member complete, sub frame sealed and painted
http://wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=933

http://wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=934

http://wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=930

http://wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=929

http://wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=928

http://wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=931

you need bigger tires :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

looks good for a XJ:D

lookin good *tom cruise top/gun voice* "ash.........man" *tom cruise/top gun voice off* :D

Dave, it looks great man. Time to start that cage and a set of bumpers and then go peel'em off on a few rocks aye?:D

It is sagging in the rear :flipoff2: Looks good Dave. Can I stop by this weekend to take a look?

Chad

Originally posted by chadjans
It is sagging in the rear :flipoff2: Looks good Dave. Can I stop by this weekend to take a look?

Chad

Naaah, its just the front hasent sagged yet :D I have so many leaf packs in the garag I can lift the rear with something I have..

Ill be going down to vista this weekend, but Ill be working on it
tonight if you want to come by.

Won't be in town untill Friday night. Have to drive home.

Chad

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ
Pics!! :D


http://wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=929

http://wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=928

http://wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=931

Congrats ashmanjeepXJ . That rocks.

Like I said before, a great project and if I would ever go to full size axles, I would go with a subframe, too !

It may not be trail ready yet till I trim and add bump stops but I drove it to work yesterday and today for the final street tests.

I-10 does 75MPH till I hit town and it feals good, no bad vibes, those MTs are quiet. With the 4.10 gears and 37s Im doing about 1900 RPM at 65mph in 5th, and it will hold its speed, before with 3.07 gears and little 32s I had no 5th gear. This tire-gear ratio is ok.

The rear drives really hard now with the heavy dana 70. Also I only have a half a tank of gass and thats about it for weight over the rear so my shocks and springs are too stiff. Teh cage weight shoudl fix this and if I get my spare back there that will help alot.

I need to take a brake,

Ill clean that garage, re- epoxy the floor, build some shelves, and finally make a work bench for all my junk, this weekend.

Has nuthing to do with the jeep but I upgraded from the 55cu-ft welding gas tank to the 125cuft tank (about 4ft tall), it was only $108 to upgrade after trade in with gas, the 2X larger tank is only like $43 to fill and the little 55 was like $32. I should have done that along time ago....

It will be nice to save some gas money when I do the cage.

have fun.

ooh no, I trimmed my fenders... its modified....so you have to look at new pics:rolleyes:

Ill make wheel wells for the rear later on...


http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1025

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1024

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1023

It dosent look like it's squatting any more :flipoff2:

Looks fawking great Dave.:beer:

it's still low in the back :flipoff2:

Moving violation, too high in the back ;)

Looks killer, great job!

Hey Dave you want me to come down and really trim that thing?

Chad

Originally posted by chadjans
Hey Dave you want me to come down and really trim that thing?
Chad

If you trimmed it like a Zj I could fit what... 32s :D

Last night i cut my frame mount leaf hanger, it used to have three holes for adjustability, now it only has two. The hanger was too long and the leafs would rub and clank on the hanger. Now it should be fixed. I built it thinking leave more metal now and cut what rubs later and it did...

Fawkin hacked up POS XJ! :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
























Lookin good Dave! ;)

Originally posted by jeep94xj
Fawkin hacked up POS XJ! :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
























Lookin good Dave! ;)

Any additions to yours..

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


Any additions to yours..


Not since the 39.5's. Got my front 60 all tore down and will put it together over the winter. I now have an 86 F-350 that I'm putting some work into for my daily driver/tow rig. And as usual, the list keeps growing for future mods to the XJ. I was thinking about building a YJ but I've got way too much $ in the grocery getter to start over now (plus I like the attention!). :)

Ordered 380 Ft of 2in 120 walled HREW Tube on thursday it should arrive on the semi truck this thursday. Ill have Friday off, start with building new sliders, then onto the cage...
No 380 ft will not, all, go on this truck :D

I painted the jeep Green, $22, ACE brand Rust stop Oil based paint, 1 gallon, color matched to the Krylon italian olive green. The lady mixed up gloss and I wanted satin, ooh well, its shiney. I sanded it with 220, cut the paint with paint thinner 2-1, and sprayed it with a cheepie HVLP sprayer outside in the drive way on a windy day. and It looks great. Only used like 1/4 of a gallon for two coats. A gallon could easily paint three trucks.

Some Mild Action pics from the weekend... I also have video but its SVCD not MPEG Ill post up a link if Josh converts it and hosts it on his webpage.

Just some mild hill climbs and steps, no rocker protection, no roll cage, no rear fender wells, No bumpers, and my 4 year son riding shotgun so it would be stupid to do anything extreme. But it was fun.

The spare tire slid and broke the rubber High pressure fuel line, my rear shock tap broke, a front trim piece fell off, Joel (my son) opened the door on a side hill and it over extended denting the front fender in, the drivers side front leafs have saged like 1.5in, so Ill have to pull the leaf packs apart and see whats up.

Here are some pics, most are pulled from the video.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1190
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1195
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1194
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1193
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1160
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1165

More pics

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1197
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1196
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1157
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1162

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ
More pics

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1197
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1196
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1157
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1162

That thing is lookin Sick dude... I love the low and wide stance!
Scott

Man that thing does look awesome, can't wait to see the cage :D

Sweet. :beer:

I'm jealous!


:emb4:

Looks awesome! How much clearance did you end up with under the belly?

looks good, but it is a lot of steel / weight your adding.

Originally posted by borton
looks good, but it is a lot of steel / weight your adding.

holy shit!

Whats going on?:D

Originally posted by borton
looks good, but it is a lot of steel / weight your adding.

hay its borton, I havent seen you on the boards in awhile....:D

I remember when you first posted your complete pics of your white xmj on Ilovejeeps... that was a long time ago.


Anyways I finally got some pics of my Sliders... "more weight"
60lbs each. so i put on afew pounds over thanksgiving:D

They are going to be the base for my roll cage so they are extra overkill. It is made of 2x2 250 walled box, and 2in HREW 120 wall tube.. the first bent tube on MY truck.

One rail of bos along the door, and 4 legs that run back to the frame. the legs are weleded to 3X4in 1/4in thick plates and tie in at the front and rear leaf spring mounts. The outer step is angled up at 25 degrees and sticks out about 5in, it has three suports about one every 12in. I have 3/4in above tube with the door open.

PICS

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1334
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1333
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1332

yea, I know...
hurry up on the cage dave, so you can go wheelin...:D


Ive been using my bender with Aaron to build his cage.His truck has less roof:D

oooh, its fun bending tube... its way worth doing yourself and owning the tool! Mine keep gauling though and thats a royal pain. Ive polished it three times and it has only done this and my sliders....Its getting better and yes its clean tube and greased each time...

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1330

Damn, you have to work on somebody elses rig even before your junk is done? Hey, what the hell are friends for right?:D

Just a comment from the peanut gallery.

By the looks of it, it sure wouldn't take much more work to dovetail the back of that thing when you build new wheel wells. And then, who cares it it sits a little low in the back.

Dave I am sure the neighbors and the neighborhood association love you Dave.

Chad

Originally posted by hoehand
Just a comment from the peanut gallery.

By the looks of it, it sure wouldn't take much more work to dovetail the back of that thing when you build new wheel wells. And then, who cares it it sits a little low in the back.

I at one point did want to dove tail it. But eventually all Id have left is a truggy.

I want to keep some of the cherokee "look" while the body is still in great shape.

INSANE!!!! I love it!! :eek: :eek: :shaking: :beer:

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


I want to keep some of the cherokee "look" while the body is still in great shape.



Ha ha ha! body in great shape! That won't last long!!! :D

Looks good. I did the same with my 4 dr. The visibility is awesome now! please post pics of the rear fenderwells when you get to them. I am unsure about how to cut/shape/reweld mine. Thanks. DAve

I got the B-hoop of the cage tacked on and done... It was 162in long and had 6 bends, It seperates from the body no more then 1.25 in. It hugs it really tight.

I expetect it to take afew weeks to complete. there is alot to build.

Dave: if you need a hand in late December and early January I will be in town taking a class and no job, so all the free time in the world.

Chad

lookin good dave.......

when ya gonna get that bitch out on the trail:)
how about H2H this sat??????????

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ

Some Mild Action pics from the weekend... I also have video but its SVCD not MPEG Ill post up a link if Josh converts it and hosts it on his webpage.

Thanks 4alarm and Muddy Juggalo
The first mild trail test is online.

Do a right click save as.
Garden Canyon (http://www2.techpimps.net:8080/redshred/WheelingAZ/ashmanjeepxj4.wmv)
Not tough..


On the weekend I took it out, its got the sliders and "some" cage.. some ok pics of the cage progress.

We have this stuff on video too, but its not hosted yet. Probibly a week or so and it will be up..

some pics...

Look the d60 is "bling" :D
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1371

Need to trim alittle more on the front and hammer the well in alittle more... (no cage side :D)
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1374


http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1378

This hill was fun...It was really slick with loose rock, then had a good 18-24in step at the top.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1377

Ill post up some video when we get it.

It's nice to see, how your XJ has his "first coming out" . Congrats ! Nice work. ;)

Dave, looks like that 37 took a bite out of your front left fender.:D

Originally posted by JS-Economos
Dave, looks like that 37 took a bite out of your front left fender.:D

Its bairly dented, the trimming will completely fix it..

My muffler... well it self un-cleared...
Its dented, riped, bent sideways, and hanging down... another $16 will fix that, I wanted a better flow muff anyways.

I flew and landed on the cross member at least 5 times. What a sound it made...such a solid loud bang. The spectators kringed each time...

Completely unrelated... the ignition switch broke, its jammed again, that switch is only a year old if that. What a piece of junk.
I hate fixing stuff twice.

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


some pics...


http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1371



Dave,
that really is one nice clean XJ/MJ!

Post more pics, cuz I'm saving every one :D

Nice to see the old skool GY MT's too!

Originally posted by jpnjim

Post more pics, cuz I'm saving every one :D


more.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1376

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1375

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1379

Thats all Ive got..
Well probibly extract some more pics from the digital video later on.

Looking Sweet dude! Are you planing on some new meats or are you keeping it with the GY's?

I finally bought a digi camera last night and took some pics of the cage progress. The pics are not the best.

I dove tailed the back 6in on each side. Re welded it to the body and bent up a two piece hoop around the rear fenders.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1457

Straight on pic of rear dovetail. http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1456

It really dosent look that strange in person... weird pic.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1458

The B-hoop cross brace angles forward and is bent near the head rest to fit tight against the back of the front seats. It gives loads of space for back seat leg room.
I will buid a rear roof hoop for over the back seat, and will also v-brace that to the b-hoop. from the top it will be an x-brace from the front to back of the roof.
The doors are now quick release removable. just open fully then lift and they come right off. Ill have to make a set of tube doors, but can run it either way.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1460

Top view of Roof-V and B-hoop.
The B-hoop X-brace welds to some 4in 1/4in thick angle that goes through the flor 8in long, and is welded to the inside of the sleaved frame rails. The bends and angle in the x-brace weekens it but Ill have rear supports angling forward to fix the angle issue.
Right now with the A-pillars angled back and the b-hoop x angled back in a bad roll the roof could shift backwards. when done, that wont be an issue.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1459

I like this node. I flared out the rear fender hoop at 45 degrees to meet the B-hoop. This allowed the rear fender hoop fit tight against the top of the fender. I tack welded the hoop to the fender, it fits perfect.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1461

The front bumper is 90% complete.
I used some 6in 1/4in thick C-channel, its 14in wide in the center then angles back and is 37in at the ends.

The hoop around the grill is 6 bends and about 130 in of tube. It was kinds tricky, and I think is still kinda an eye sore.. The hoop hugs the lights and body, I dont think the turn signals can be removed any more. :flipoff2:

The warn 8000 winch sits back about 2in into where the grill was all the way up aginst the rad. Ill cut the grill and put it back on later. Its ugly unfinished but the fit is good.

The stinger was a 70in piece bent in half, and sits at a 70 degree angle.

Its all just tacked in place...http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1455


The notch at the stinger end of the tube brace is not done I want it 2in lower so the top lines up with the line on the tube..

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1452


I really like how this node flows. The fender bar is bent in at 45 degrees, and I bent the stinger brace to follow the same bend.
A straight piece might be stronger but I like the way the bent brace looks.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1454

Side view of the front bumper.
Good winch protection adn tucked away location, and a good 70 degree angle on the stinger.


http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1453

Damn it is finally all coming together.

Looks awesome

I can not wait to start my Exo next month :D

Scott at rock stomper made a bumper for a cherokee that gave me the idea for my winch mount.

That was 09-18-02...long time ago..

http://www.ilovejeeps.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7249

Ill trim my grill like that then put it back on..
Ill give credit where due.. :D

One of the best looking X/MJ things I have ever seen. I would look killa on some FOURTEES:D

:beer: to you!

Oh damn it looks sweet Dave - I love the tube work.

That is FAWKING SWEET!!!!!




:cool: :cool:

Originally posted by B.A.R.K
One of the best looking X/MJ things I have ever seen. I would look killa on some FOURTEES:D

:beer: to you!

The fodiees is all about the Benjamins...
but not next on the list.
steering, gearing, then fodiees.

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


The fodiees is all about the Benjamins...
but not next on the list.
steering, gearing, then fodiees.

Which 4-deez?

Lookin kick ass Dave! My front 60 will hopefully be done next weekend, and then it'll be time for some tube. Jeepdaddytj ordered a bender! :D

Coming out good Dave. Did the driver side tail weld up easier than the passenger side?

Chad

nice stinger man... I like how you did the all around protection bumper... real nice :D

Originally posted by KarmirXJ
nice stinger man... I like how you did the all around protection bumper... real nice :D

I worked on it yesterday, 9 more pieces of tube..
The front bumper is complete still need to put the grill back on, the A-pillar spreader is comming along, and I started the rear roof section.

I like the front now.



http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1464 http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1462 http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1463

wow :eek:

better hurry and finish it up dave before the feds close all the trails :flipoff2:

Damn, you really out-did yourself on this one.:eek:

great looking rig.:eek:

Any idea on what the weight is now?

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


Thats all Ive got..
Well probibly extract some more pics from the digital video later on.

VIDEOS from last month...
This was just some testing/playing around at Chivo Falls "Three Feathers area" nuthing tough.

Video 1, The notch, steering wont trun left (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1539)

Video 2 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1538)

Video 3 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1537)
Video 4 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1542)

Video 5 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1541)

Video 6 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1551)

Video 7 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1555)

Video 8 (http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1554)

Ill have to get up some new pics of the cage, I plan to be done with the bender tonight, just afew more notches and gussets and its done.

Well since today is a snow day for me I thought I would check them out.

Looks like the Rig is performing well.

Good Job

dude cannot hold a camera

Cage Progress pics.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/front_bumperfull.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/front_stingerfenderbar.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/rearlowview.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/b-hoopside_small.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/roof-bhoop_small.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/rearfenderbarDS.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/frontview.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/front_dS.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/frontbumper.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/roof-side.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/Roof_front.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/Rear_view_190.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/side_view_582.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/Rear_diagnal.jpg

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/Back_seats.jpg
I think it looks weird :flipoff2:

I think it looks AWESOME!

but it would be a little scary sitting in the back, rocks and gravel could nail you pretty easy.

only things I would have done differently is a V or upside-down V out of small tubing over the middle of the windshield rather than the one large piece, and I would make a detachable door-bar for running doors off... or! make half doors, weld them shut, and put a door bar across at the top of the half door

now go roll it!

Originally posted by BrettM
I think it looks AWESOME!

but it would be a little scary sitting in the back, rocks and gravel could nail you pretty easy.

only things I would have done differently is a V or upside-down V out of small tubing over the middle of the windshield rather than the one large piece, and I would make a detachable door-bar for running doors off... or! make half doors, weld them shut, and put a door bar across at the top of the half door

now go roll it!

I think Ill try the V on the window... I dont have any small tube at the house. Im thinking 1in would look good.

The doors come off, and I really want to remove those sliders I made, there strong, but teh cherokee body hangs down TOO low.
I want to cut the bottom half of the full door off and make the new slider there, that would be like 18-20 higher then it is now.

How do you like the V over the rear seats.. It had to have two bends in it to keep it tall enough for head room. Its not very safe with out them over the rear seats but I think it really clutters up the flow of the back.

I also dont like the Almost vertical bars that go right behind the passenger seat head rests.

I only tacked those bars in. Ill decide If there keepers or not. The window bar Id say is not a keeper...:D

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


I think Ill try the V on the window... I dont have any small tube at the house. Im thinking 1in would look good.

The doors come off, and I really want to remove those sliders I made, there strong, but teh cherokee body hangs down TOO low.
I want to cut the bottom half of the full door off and make the new slider there, that would be like 18-20 higher then it is now.

How do you like the V over the rear seats.. It had to have two bends in it to keep it tall enough for head room. Its not very safe with out them over the rear seats but I think it really clutters up the flow of the back.

I also dont like the Almost vertical bars that go right behind the passenger seat head rests.

I only tacked those bars in. Ill decide If there keepers or not. The window bar Id say is not a keeper...:D

I like the bars in the back, I think a 1 inch (inverted) V will be perfect on the windshield, and the idea of bringing the slider up a foot or two sounds perfect as well

That looks freaking great. Wow.

I think the bars over the rear passangers and the 2 that come down behind them look fine, I would leave them in just for the extra bit of safty.

Could someone draw up what this v over the windsheild would look like?

Also where do you put tools? I love the back end coming in but it looks like you have room for the spare and thats it?

Also I'm guessing you are putting in inner wheel wells?

I personally would make a nice fabric top just to keep the sun off the rear passangers, but that might just be me. Up here I would make one that covers the whole rear incase it starts raining like mad.

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ

I think it looks weird :flipoff2:

Yup, but it'll look better once you paint it.:D

Originally posted by Sp@nky
Could someone draw up what this v over the windsheild would look like?



it's what lots (most?) competition buggies do, just go look through the pictures from any event

http://www.pirate4x4.com/trailreports/Put_up-shut_up/044.jpg

looking good. got any info on how you did the rear end? what did you cut/ reweld to move it all inwards?obviously the inner fenders have to go, what else?

where did yo get the tires from? I've been looking for a place that sells them but can't find them local or a place that will ship them.

Originally posted by GaJeep94YJ
where did yo get the tires from? I've been looking for a place that sells them but can't find them local or a place that will ship them.

I knew those hummer tires werent the best but the really suck in the rocks..

Check this out:
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1687

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1686

I only have one good tire left, so Its time to find some used Swampers...

My tire blew out Sunday but Monday my Hydraulic steerign stuff arrived!

I ordered the Ram from www.surplusscenter.com
$83, $94 after shipping (1.5in bore, 8in stroke, 3/4in shaft)
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...tname=hydraulic

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1700

Other research for the steering.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8589&highlight=ram+assist


I ordered a Steering box rebuild kit from. www.westtexasoffraod.com $48 and ordered two 3ft Hydraulic lines for $45. They also offer 4.5ft lines at the same price.

locally it would have cost about $100 to get some lines made, so this was the cheap and easy solution.

The hydraulic lines have a 3/8in NPT (national Pipe Thread) at the ram end, the ram I have is 3/8in NPT.
I need to locally get an male to male adaptor to gointo the box after I drill it. Ill let you know.

those tires were nothing but :rainbow: lookin anyways...time for some sx's:flipoff2:

Originally posted by KingTJ
those tires were nothing but :rainbow: lookin anyways...time for some sx's:flipoff2:

I vote you get some 40" MT/Rs.:D

40 inch MTR's are too small! :rolleyes:

http://www.imageshack.us/files2/Picture077.jpg

:flipoff2:

Originally posted by jeep94xj
40 inch MTR's are too small! :rolleyes:

http://www.imageshack.us/files2/Picture077.jpg

:flipoff2:

i see 3 different tires there...what are you doing:confused:

Originally posted by KingTJ


i see 3 different tires there...what are you doing:confused:

My XJ on 39.5 TSL's/39.5 Boggers front/rear.
Jeepdaddytj's 40 inch MTR's he won that we just picked up.

Originally posted by jeep94xj


My XJ on 39.5 TSL's/39.5 Boggers front/rear.
Jeepdaddytj's 40 inch MTR's he won that we just picked up.

Id take em if they were free!
Id take one dollar if it was free.

Too small, but larger then a 37 :D
Ill get tires eventually.

You know how it is, Pre school payments, monthly PMI on the house, the unexpecting baby due in August, re-arange the bedrooms, new furniture, cloths.... and we just got rid of all that stuff... So Im looking for some used 38s and some onezies :rolleyes:

The Ram assist steering is done.
My writeup on how I rebuilt the box, NAXJA (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20532)

I rebuilt the box and drilled and tapped the holes.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1716
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1721
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1726 http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1740
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1739
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1741

It works good. Ill have to trail test it this weekend. :D

Originally posted by KingTJ
those tires were nothing but :rainbow: lookin anyways...time for some sx's:flipoff2:

less :rainbow:








About 3in taller leaf packs, and 38in TSLS.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1791

The rear isnt saggin any more...

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1790

lookin good ash! bout time you got some real meats on there! :flipoff2:

wow that look SOOO much better with good meats lol. Your cherokee is sweet ash. Keep up the good work!

Dude, looks sweet!!! When are we going wheeling?

Ash I was woundering what kind of power steering box your using with that hydro assist. Also did you ever do the disc swap on your D70. Your cage looks awesome, Rollin

MUCH better Dave! :D
So does it feel too tipsy with the extra heigth?

Originally posted by jeep94xj
MUCH better Dave! :D
So does it feel too tipsy with the extra heigth?

It FEALs ALOT different.

Before it was lower and the springs were softer. Now When I drive the front (only) up on a rock it only takes about a 30in rock then the front springs start to unload. After they unload it is safe to climb higher, but before the with the softer springs I wouldent feel them unload. They have only unloaded beyong the roll angle.

its ok, just different.

You dont want your spring to unload just before your roll over angle cuase then body movement from may cause you to roll. These stiffer leafs feal great for cornering and for side hilling. Im still un sure about the spring rate and where it unloads.

Originally posted by KevinM
Dude, looks sweet!!! When are we going wheeling?

When are you comming down?

Originally posted by ROLLIN33S
Ash I was woundering what kind of power steering box your using with that hydro assist. Also did you ever do the disc swap on your D70. Your cage looks awesome, Rollin

Im using the stock cherokee box, a 3in bore. I put new seals in it cause it was leakey. You could do the larger 3.5in bore J20 jeep truck box but if your doing hydro assist the point is to reduce strees on your box, not get a stronger box..

I havent done the d70 disk swap. I still have brake issues.
Im running a new 1980 E350 MC, new dual piston calipers and pads on the d60 front, new shoes on the rear, bought a new 88 xj brake booster and adjusted it afew different ways, blead the brakes many times now. and It still can NOT lock up the brakes. it should...

The rear wheel cylinders are the only not new parts. But from my experience they usually leak fluid if they are bad. (no leakey)

I wonder if my new MC is bad? Ill have to swap in my old cherokee MC and see how that one works. what a PITA.

The J20 box is that a direct swap in a cherokee or do You have to do some mods to fit it. rollin

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ
I havent done the d70 disk swap. I still have brake issues.
Im running a new 1980 E350 MC, new dual piston calipers and pads on the d60 front, new shoes on the rear, bought a new 88 xj brake booster and adjusted it afew different ways, blead the brakes many times now. and It still can NOT lock up the brakes. it should...


I've got one friend running a D70 rear with an 8 lug D44 front. He has discs on the back and uses a Corvette master with his TJ booster and no proportioning valve. He has no issues locking up his 38.5 SXs.

Another friend is running a D60 rear with a 8 lug 44 front. He has discs on the back and uses a Corvette master with his stock 93 YJ booster and an adjustable proportioning valve. He has no problem locking up his 42" TSLs.

The corevette master they are using is made for 4 wheel discs. Maybe if you put discs on the back this would be the way to go. The master cylinder is only like $50 if I remember right.

what year corvette master?

Originally posted by korda


I've got one friend running a D70 rear with an 8 lug D44 front. He has discs on the back and uses a Corvette master with his TJ booster and no proportioning valve. He has no issues locking up his 38.5 SXs.

Another friend is running a D60 rear with a 8 lug 44 front. He has discs on the back and uses a Corvette master with his stock 93 YJ booster and an adjustable proportioning valve. He has no problem locking up his 42" TSLs.

The corevette master they are using is made for 4 wheel discs. Maybe if you put discs on the back this would be the way to go. The master cylinder is only like $50 if I remember right.

Corvette master...can you give less details?

Im using the The 84-86 E350 Van MC is a 1-1/8" bore with 3/8-24 and 7/16-20 ports on the right side. The A1 Cardone number is 10-2008,
cost about $18 with a core or $28 without. Need the monting holes drilled out to 9/16in and the sides grinded down,
but bolts right up to the 88XJ booster.

Adaptor fittings for XJ hard lines:
Edelmann #258540, Everco #805D, Weatherhead #7917
Female Inverted Flare Seat 5/16", Male Inverted Flare Tube 1/4"

Edelmann #258430, Everco #0158, Weatherhead #7828,
Female Inverted Flare Seat 1/4", Male Inverted Flare Tube 3/16"


The E350 MC has a large enough bore for my setup. Its 1 ton ford, im 1ton ford. It works for other guys.

Originally posted by ROLLIN33S
The J20 box is that a direct swap in a cherokee or do You have to do some mods to fit it. rollin


Yes the J20 is a direct bolt in.

But good luck finding one ( you may want to search for " J20" )

No problems with my E350 m/c swap Ash. I can lock up the 39.5's no problem! Disc front, drum rear just like yours.

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


less :rainbow:








About 3in taller leaf packs, and 38in TSLS.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1791

The rear isnt saggin any more...

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=1790

Now that thing looks sick! Good work:beer:

Originally posted by jeep94xj
No problems with my E350 m/c swap Ash. I can lock up the 39.5's no problem! Disc front, drum rear just like yours.

I repainted my rear drum dust plates, and on this weekend I noticed some brake fluid melted the new paint. So I do have a leak on in the passenger rear wheel cylinder. So now I can fix those brakes.

On the friday night We wheeled lower wood pecker, upper wood pecker, ajax, till like 3AM, then saturday played on wood pecker again and hit up some other washes.

My tierod bent
My front leafs bent all 6 of the clams,
After braking the clamps the lower leafs shifted and I bent and distroyed another main leaf.
All the side lugs on the dried out used 38s are gone.
My digital camera fell out of my pocket on a hill climb and I ran it over (NO PICs for awhile :mad: )
broke another muffler,
Dented in the rear diff cover pretty bad
broke two lights on the borrowed trailer

and cost $75 in gas to tow it out there...180miles round trip
Im broke $$ and broke :(

It was fun wheelin with the BTG guys, chris and Jack.
Thanks for showing us around.

damn dude sounds like my new years tellico trip...broken front shortside inner, 2 blown trailer tires, 2 broken birfields on my buddys yota, and we had to pull my jeep onto the trailer with a strap cause it wouldn't run. hope you get everything fixed man, good luck!

Damn Ash, sounds like you need some 44044s.

Originally posted by JS-Economos
Damn Ash, sounds like you need some 44044s.

or BDS; lifetime, no questions asked, no fine print warranty

Ash; how did the ram bend the tie-rod? did you have the angle right? I'm planning on hydro-assist pretty much the same as yours, what should I do different.

44044's lifetime. Already had a set replaced at summit. :D

Did the tires trim the front fenders a little or did you?

Originally posted by BrettM
Ash; how did the ram bend the tie-rod? did you have the angle right? I'm planning on hydro-assist pretty much the same as yours, what should I do different.

Im not sure what caused the bend...
The angles Im pretty confident are ok, it has more of a downward angle but it bent the tierod back not down???

If I did coils on the front, I could run a new tierod on the bottom of two Highsteer arms. Id do heims on the tierod and the drag link. Drag link on top of the PS arm and the tie rod on the bottom of the PS arm. On the DS arm the ram would be on top of the High steer arm, and the tie rod would be below it. I could easily fabricate Heims on the end of the ram so It would allow for the angle change on the highsteer arm.

That is what I would do different, but... thats alot of work from where it sits now!

Im unsure what Ill do.. Ill probibly toss a new main leaf on, make new clamps and just run the steering as is till it really brakes.

The stock transfercase gearing is killing me more then the steering, the steering is just bent. Any money will go into the dana 300 and AW4 I dont have, not leafs or steering I dont like.

i have leafs up front too in my MJ with a D44 with just cross-over, not hi-steer. I'm gonna make the tie-rod either 1.25, .375 wall or 1.25 solid, so I don't think i'll have any problems...

another axle swap.


d70 is out, and a shaved 14bolt with 5.13 gears is going in. Rear leafs are gone for good, and a double triangualted 4 link with coils is going in.
mt d70 was 65in wms, the 13bolt is 67, better match for the 69 front.
I have some stock TJ front coils, Tj rears, ZJ front coils and ZJ rears, all 4 are different heights Ill find one that works....

Im ordering my 1.25in sperical bearings (heims) tomarrow. I still havent decided on a new tire to buy.


http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2124
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2123

so you are still going to be running leafs up front?

why are you changing from leafs to 4link?


i havent read the entire post but what front springs are you running? i just put a set of yj leafs with an extra main leaf and a rancho AAL but im still sitting just a bit shy of what i need.


just curious how much are the 44044?

:eek:


Patiently awaiting progress pics. :)


I still havent decided on a new tire to buy.

I'm seeing...thirty...no, forty twos!!! :D

how uch more clearance over the 70 will you have with the shaved 14bt. i have a 65" d70 going in my junk right now and a 69" d44 in the front. i was going to go with the 14bt but i got the 70 for free. do you have any rear shots of your truck so i can see the width difrent in the two axles. i'v bee a bit curiouse lately.

Im not sure what caused the bend...
The angles Im pretty confident are ok, it has more of a downward angle but it bent the tierod back not down???


Sounds like you had the drivers side bound up and the leverage from the wheels bent the tierod back /U\
If the passenger side bound up, it would have bent the draglink back.

This just happened to me and your question helped answer mine... :smokin:

[QUOTE=Kraqa]how uch more clearance over the 70 will you have with the shaved 14bt. [QUOTE]

Im thinking clearance will be about the same. shaved d70 shaved 14bolt. I had 12in under the d70 with those bald 38s. The 14bolt will be shaved this weekend Ill get pics. The 14bolt is 2in wider, I have less BS rims on my rear so my rear tires are 81in out side to out side and so is my front..

Im building an internal cage in this white grand cherokee right now so my project is slow. I should have chad done this weekend.

Im also helping out aaron rebuild his yellow toy buggie, he rolled it bad at JV during the toy jambo, he cut off the front and we started re-tubing it.

Axle trade day
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2087

My 14bolt cart didnt last too long.. :flipoff2:
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2086

The jeepish hoop i put on aarons toy. should get that done saturday.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2088

welding on chads cage monday
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2126
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?show_all=1&id=4286931395&start=1

:eek:


Patiently awaiting progress pics. :)



I'm seeing...thirty...no, forty twos!!! :D

I can order 39in IROCKs now and wait for them, or pay about $100 per tire more to get 42in TSLs, or wait for the 42in IROCKs to get released and hope they are priced like the 39s.

Most of my wheelin buddie's rigs are down too so Ill just build while I dont decide on tires. :grinpimp:

OK. i havn't shaved mine yet but i'mjust in a hurry to get this thing rolling. nice work on chads cage tho. can't wit to see it done

:eek:


Patiently awaiting progress pics. :)



I'm seeing...thirty...no, forty twos!!! :D

Guess what just arrived yesterday?..... :grinpimp:



Unmounting a 38....
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2209

42s next to the old 38s...
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2208

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2210

A mounted 42, next to my toyota's 35s.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2212

The cherokee is behind the wall on the single car side of the garage, so its not much for pictures.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2211
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2214

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2213

I bought new rotors and calipers for the 14bolt disk brake swap. I need to make two pieces for the brackets. The 5.13 gears for the 14 bolt are together. The 14 bolt is spooled (welded). I shaved the 14bolt and may shave some more into the bottom diff cover bolt. I had 11.5in of clearance under the 14bolt with the bald 38s, the 42s give 13.75in of clearance.

Im still waiting for the Rod ends from pollyperformance, Once I get those, I can start the rear links. The front leafs will be redone for more hieght, and I need to install the 5.13 gears in the front d60. Ill need new bumpstops, and shock mounts.

Im planning to hit the trails around september. :(


It will be a fun build, and it not so hot now that the rain season is comming.

damn man, lookin good...you gonna trim some more or will it be high enough...

That is going to be awesome! Hasnt been too long since you got the 60 and 70 went under their and now it is back for more. :D Keep us posted on the build-up.

Alittle progress this weekend.

14bolt shaved. I decided to keep the bottom bolt. I just grinded more to the sides of the bolt. I figure if I hit a rock right on that bolt it should slide to the side alittle. I added the diff guard today.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2244
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2243

I also got my coils buckets done. I also make some plate brackets that will bolt the top of the coil to the frame. These are ZJ rear coils. They should me the right height. i also have the TJ or ZJ front coils if I need another few inches...
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2245

Metal is so hard to find. I spent half of friday looking for some 2in 1/4 wall tube, like 1.5in sch 80 pipe and its just not available in town. I also couldent find any 3/8in thick 3.5in box for making my 4-link brackets. I also couldent find any 2X3 1/4in box for the axle hoop. China sucks.

have fun.

How much 1/4 wall 2 by 2 do you need? I have 4 2 foot long pieces at the house.

Chad

What caliper and rotor did you go with on the 14 bolt?

Just read yer thread from start to finish...Nice work with the bender!

What was total cost on disc conv. on the 14b?

What for studs are you using on your 14b hubs to discs?

I chose to use the same brakes as my front 1979 d60 ford front.
I got a 1980 F350 4wd front roter for 9/16in studs. Re used the 14 bolt 9/16in studs.

Used some 1976 F350 2wd front caliper brackets, I cut them down and will add a new mounting plate to them. The calipers are the same dual piston ford calipers my front has.

Rotors were like $115isk, and claipers were like $80ish unloaded, I had some pads. Brackets I had sitting around. So I have like $200 into the brake swap, I may have found a kit cheaper but I like not using kits.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2168

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2167

All I need to do is cut up two pieces of 1/2in plate to weld and bolt to the cast bracket then weld the plate to the axle housing. I may need to grind the drum brake bracket alittle but it will fit nicely. I just havent made those two little plates yet.

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2169

How much 1/4 wall 2 by 2 do you need? I have 4 2 foot long pieces at the house.

Chad

I wanted to make my hoop out of 2X3 box not 2x2.

I wanted 2in round tube for the links and some other stuff, thats the 2in 1/4wall I wanted. 24in of box wouldent work for links.

I may do box tube links, cause I cant find thicker then 1/8in round tube in town. Ill just get a full stick... eventually.

42's!!! :D :D :D

Your changing you junk around, and I'm changing my junk! Gonna have to change my user name to jeep93zjV8. :p

Probablly gonna be one of the only leaf sprung ZJ's around. Not ready to try linking it just yet. Steel prices are quickly gonna delete my funds. :(


BTW, we got the bender so I'm gonna "borrow" your cage design from your friends ZJ. :flipoff2:

I have some some 2.5 by 2.5 .250 wall box. Two 5 foot sections. Would that work for a bridge?

I think I am going to come get those other two 21 foot 1.5 wall tube. Talked to Aaron a few days ago, he said he didn't need it now for plans had changed. You need it?

Chad

42's!!! :D :D :D

Your changing you junk around, and I'm changing my junk! Gonna have to change my user name to jeep93zjV8. :p

Probablly gonna be one of the only leaf sprung ZJ's around. Not ready to try linking it just yet. Steel prices are quickly gonna delete my funds. :(


BTW, we got the bender so I'm gonna "borrow" your cage design from your friends ZJ. :flipoff2:

They are I6 coils, non up country.

Ask David why he is getting rid of his leafs.

If you want to "borrow" you may find these albums useful:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?show_all=1&id=4286931395&start=1
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?show_all=1&id=4287199799&start=1

If you don't have an imagestation account you can't view the albums. Don't want to hear about it. You want to look you deal with it :shaking: :flipoff2:

Chad

They are I6 coils, non up country.

Ask David why he is getting rid of his leafs.

If you want to "borrow" you may find these albums useful:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?show_all=1&id=4286931395&start=1
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?show_all=1&id=4287199799&start=1

If you don't have an imagestation account you can't view the albums. Don't want to hear about it. You want to look you deal with it :shaking: :flipoff2:

Chad

I just so happen to have an imagestation account...and thanks for the pics! :D

I have no choice at this time but to use the leafs I already have. This ZJ was an unexpected project that I was originally just gonna use the motor and tranny from for my XJ, but it's starting to make more sence to start off with a "less abused" platform rather than keep working with my beat down XJ.

I just so happen to have an imagestation account...and thanks for the pics! :D

I have no choice at this time but to use the leafs I already have. This ZJ was an unexpected project that I was originally just gonna use the motor and tranny from for my XJ, but it's starting to make more sence to start off with a "less abused" platform rather than keep working with my beat down XJ.

Screw the zj, Start building a buggie, then toss your XJ drivetrain on it once its ready...

I have some some 2.5 by 2.5 .250 wall box. Two 5 foot sections. Would that work for a bridge?
I think I am going to come get those other two 21 foot 1.5 wall tube. Talked to Aaron a few days ago, he said he didn't need it now for plans had changed. You need it?
Chad
I could probibly use those two 2.5in box pieces you have. That 2X4 we used on your cage probibly would have worked great for my hoop-bridge.

I still have gas, but will need a refill some time during my 4-link project.

Later.

Screw the zj, Start building a buggie, then toss your XJ drivetrain on it once its ready...

Would love to do that, but I have to drive it to the trails (and we get rain so we have that icky mud stuff around here). No tow rig, or trailer yet. I did however build a tube buggy chassis for my radio controlled crawler. (getting in pratice for a real one someday. :D )

Im kinda disapointed with my progress on the jeep.
Our suburban intake manifold sprung a leak, and my toyota has an ignition proglem. Ive been doing the no fun fixing.

Any ways.

Ive had my rodends in a box for awhile.. here are some pics..
1.25in rod ends for 1in bolts. The misalignment spacers are for 3/4in bolts.
2in poly joints with a 9/16in bolt sleve.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2322

Here is my best guess at my suspension geometry desing. The upper links will be adjustable, so between Instantant Center 1 or IC2, 100+% Antisquat or 85%ish Antisquat.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2312

Tonight I cut out the floor, to get my upper links mounted high enough.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2323

I like it when this thread is on the first page :bounce2: :bounce:

Do you plam on building some sort of crossmember where the floor once was?
I guess we will see.

ASHMAN.You got to get up to Kingman for some cooler wheelin..Orange XJ..goes out Sunday for maiden run!!!

I got the disk brake brackets done, not fully welded but both are on and mounted. Not fancy, but It came out pretty clean.
I grinded each of the 16 studs to fit on the F350 rotors. painfully slow but free. build what you got. :D

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2330

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2329

http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2331

My wife is expecting a baby girl between now and the 10th(enducement day) so the project will slow down for awhile.

I like it when this thread is on the first page :bounce2: :bounce:

Do you plam on building some sort of crossmember where the floor once was?
I guess we will see.

Yea Im gonna bend up a 2in piece of tube to follow the tranny tunnel. Ill brace the hoop to my X-brace on the cage. I needed to get the brakes done, now I can roll the axle under there and start making my mounting tabs for the 4link. Grinding those studs took a long time today...

What size brake lines are you running front and rear? Factory jeep 3/16" or factory ford 1 ton 1/4"? I'm having the same problem with the same setup and i'm starting to think it is the line size.

What size brake lines are you running front and rear? Factory jeep 3/16" or factory ford 1 ton 1/4"? I'm having the same problem with the same setup and i'm starting to think it is the line size.

Im running the stock brake lines...
Smaller lines will reduce the flow, but not the pressure. Brake power is related to pressure and brake speed is flow. We have a pressure issue, not a flow issue.. IMO.

I got some new double triangulated 4link progress pics. all the mounts are just about done, I really like the angles..

I welded and plug welded some 2in Sch80 pipe on to the thin tube supplied by polly performance for the bushings.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2424

My lower links are mounted high, just above the axle tube, and they angle in twards the drive shaft. I will have my Heims at the tips of the link triangles. so the lowers have heims at the drive shaft and the uppers have heims at the axle end.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2423
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2425
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2426

The bushing mounts are all made form 3.5in 1/4in thick box tube. My Heims fit nicely inside some 3in 3/16in box, but I though it was too thin, so my Heim mounts are teh 3/16in box sleved with 1/4in box, so 7/16in thick... Over kill but what I had on hand...

This is the axle end upper heim mounts that will weld to the bridge
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2428

These are the frame end mounts, the uppers will be welded to the same foot as my cage Xbrace, the lower mounts attache to some 2x4 3/16in box tube that is welded to the 2in tube cross member on my Cage X-brace. I will add a piece of 1.5in tube from the back of the lower links out to the frame. These upper and lower link mounts will be adjustable.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2427


This top view shows the angle of my triangualtion, the uppers and lower have almost the exact same triangulation. the lowers will only be about 2in longer then the uppers. link length... I dont remember.. 38in ish.
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/download.php?id=2429

Now I can tack all the brackets in place and make the links, the lowers will be 2in 3/8in wall, and the uppers will be 1.75in 1/4in wall. Ill probibly run my brake line down one of the links...My coil buckets are ready to be welded on.

Ill have 8in of seperation at the axle end, and varable mounts at the frame end. I think the 8in of seperation should be ok. I could see making taller axle end upper link mounts later on when I get my gastank and floor raised higher.

Ashman
your XJ is incredible!!! the ongoing pics and details are great.
thanks

Damn, those caliper are gigantic.