Yo folk. I got this email from a German manufacturer. I had emailed him a tech question about his product that is installed on my Unimog. His product is the one that is used to install the Diesel engine into a Unimog.

One part of that product is a modified clutch arm. The guy who replaced my clutch here in the states took the modified clutch arm off and reinstalled the stock clutch arm.... grrrrrrr. Anyway I wrote the manufacturer of this product about how to reinstall his product's clutch arm cause Im worried that with out it I may be causing undo wear on my clutch. Also since the arm is longer it takes less force to apply the clutch and that will be good for my old wore out knees. I also let him know my TOB is not stock. It is a modified TOB from a Unimog 406.

Here is what Gerald said in his email along with the pics he sent. Two pics did not come thru correctly. I can see them on my puter but cant seem to transfer them here. They dont show much so its not a loss. Again, he is a German speaking english.

I cannot say why it is inserted the clutch system from the Unimog 406 here. If it only concerns a hydraulic clutch function to insert, should one with the original parts Unimog 404.0 do.
This clutch system functioned. In Germany some people drive with a converted Unimog 404.0 and they have no problems with the function.

If you will reinstall the original mechanical clutch mode from the Unimog 404.1, that is possible. (see photos) The structure from inside to outside: ball bearing with two springs (Unimog 404.1), clutch fork (Unimog 404.1) with space ring installs at the clutch shaft (Unimog 404.1). The position from the clutch lever at the outside must again be determined. In the start position is the center of the release bearing more deeply than the center of the drive shaft. In order to determine this position, the drive shaft must be raised around half of its play. The lever from the outside must be install parallel to the inside.

Importantly for the adjustment and examination:

The clutch release bearing does not affect the drive shaft in any position.

The way of the contact: bearing with pressure plate up to the full to disengage may not exceed 7mm. Disengaging way adjust:
The yokes at the pull rod turn it to the shortest connection and install, the same must be examined in the longest position.
The do pressure the clutch pedal with the hand. (more sensitive feeling).

Result: with fully pressed clutch the clutch release bearing stands perpendicularly and centrically to the drive shaft. With installation of the extension lever, this must be examined also.
Is this measure not correct, the lever of the outside must to be shifted on the teeth. The translation is 1:10
Example: (in the bell housing)

(Clutch release bearing way = 14 mm - 7 mm-pedal free way without extension lever outside)= 7 mm disengaging way into the pressure plate

I hope that you understood everything.


Regards
Gerald Dietrich
www.mog404.com
www.unimog404.com


(I know what this is... it's the simple extension on the clutch arm that is supose to be attached to the tranny. this is what was left off of mine)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/uploads/A3.jpg

here is another pic of the same thing with extension installed on the lever

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/uploads/Mog clutch fork lengthening OM617A.jpg

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/uploads/Cltuch housing outside1.jpg

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/uploads/ARL404.jpg

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/uploads/ksetudSm.jpg

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/uploads/Cltuch housing outside.jpg

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/uploads/Kup404.jpg

Coach,
I think in the first paragraph he trying to say if you have a hydraulic clutch pedal use the parts from the 404.0

I n the next section he is saying if you have a mechanical linkage that some one has been playing with you have to re-establish the basic points.

End translation attempt

Like any clutch with your foot off the pedal you want the throw out bearing to be well clear of the pressure plate fingers. When depressed he is recommending that you don’t allow the throw out bearing to travel more than 7mm once it has made contact. Because the lever arm that activates the cluch inside the bell housing is shorter than the arm on the outside there is a ratio involved in how much travel you want outside to result in 7mm inside. With his extension the ratio is 10 :1.

Are you running the G-wagon pressure plate? I think this is recommended to handle the extra torque with the OM617. Because this plate has stiffer springs he adds an extension on to the arm to get you more leverage.

The bottom line is, if your throw out bearing is not in constant contact with the pressure plate and your leg can push it far enough to disengage completely while not over traveling, things are adjusted as well as they can be.

Bob DuPuy
Parrish, Fl
3 300SDs
1 300SDL
416 DOA, 404.0 VHF, 407, 406
http://photos.yahoo.com/h2odiesel

Thank you much Bob.

That makes lots of since.

My question is how can I reinstall this extended arm with out haveing to move the cab and engine back to remeasure everything. The guys who did my clutch job put the stock one back on. grrrrrrr though I told them not too and its Killing my old war damaged (30 years of gymnastic) knees.

Their 10 hours away in NY, or I would push them to do it.

Anyone got any idea on how I can maybe use the ratio provided (10:1) to end up with the same settings the mechanic set things at with the stock arm?

PS..... What happend to da phone call the other weekend. I just figured ya got tied up, its no biggy. Im looking forward to my performance book from MercedesSource

Coach,
Ive heard that the stock 404 bell housing has an opening through which one can see and even lube the throw out bearing, does your truck have such a hole? If it was me I'd put the arm on in the same oreintaton as the short arm and start with the linkage disconnected. grab the arm by hand and make sure there is some freeplay before the bearing touches the presssure plate. Then lengthen the linkage enough to connect to the arm in this posistion. This is to make sure the bearing isn't touching and spinning constantly. Then while sitting in the truck with the engine running find the point where the cluch disengages just enough to slip smoothly into gear. You need to adjust a stop to limit pedal travel to this point. If you're close to the stock stop but run out of adjustment you can add a little more free play to make up the difference. The two big points are don't over depress the plate, just enough to do the job, and don't leave the bearing touching when your foot is off the clutch.

You were going to send me your phone number I never got it so I figured you were busy.

Bob D.

Originally posted by H2odiesel
Coach,...... snip
You were going to send me your phone number I never got it so I figured you were busy.

Bob D.

Guess my or your email system ate it. I sent the # in a reply to the email where you suggested it.

I'll look for an access hole but my memory tells me that one of complaints of the new bell housing casting to use the OM617 is that there is no access whole in it.

And to answe a previouse question. Yes it is a G waggon Pressure plate.

Here is what SlO said in RE to all this

Don't worry about pulling everything out. Its simply not necessary. What I told you was just the technically correct way to do it, provided he was right and I understood him correctly. You wont be able to use the ratio because you don't know at what length the ratio is good for or if its even accurate at all. You also don't know how the last guy set it up. But it doesn't really matter because all those procedures are just to be sure you don't get too much over travel in either direction, and there are other ways to get 'pretty close' to ideal. Even if you don't get it right, the part that will fail will be the throwout bearing. It will probably make noise for quite some time before it lets
go(listen for it), and it's a cheap part. But I'm sure you don't want
to pull it apart again so...

Bolt the extension in place. Adjust the length of the pull rod till you can feel the first sign of engagement right around the middle of pedal travel. Get a stethoscope or a long screw driver and put it to the clutch shaft while its running in neutral if possible. Have someone push the clutch all the way in and let it all the way out and listen for noise at the ends of travel that isn't there near the middle. If you have this noise, you need to extend the clutch arm extension more. If you experience a dragging, or slipping clutch at either end of pedal travel, you need to shorten the arm. OR, if I misunderstood how the extension is made and it is in fact a fixed length, then Gerald already went through this process and engineered it to the correct length. So you would just need to install it, center it, then you are good to go.
Good luck
Dustin Maki



I'll pull the lever out. but I think its fixed distance