I have to replace the ball joint on the pitman/drop arm. I was wondering if there is a way to easily upgrade this portion of the steering. Maybe upgrading to a larger pitman/drop arm and installing a beefier ball joint, rather than replace the ball joint with one of the same strength.

Any suggestions?

CK:
About the only thing you could do would be to replace the drop arm with one that does not have the captive ball joint a la Discos and more recent Rangies.

D'Oh, you'll also have to replace the cross tube.

Be aware though that removing the drop arm is not an easy task. I bent two pullers before finally finding one that was up to the task. Thanx a lot Mike:flipoff2:

Peace,
Paul

OH cool you got it off!!! Now, is it leaking?? (the box not the arm)

Originally posted by Serious One
OH cool you got it off!!! Now, is it leaking?? (the box not the arm)

I finally got it off, with the third puller.

As for the leakage, you make it sound as though I actually get to work on my own truck! I have two Rangies in the driveway now for which I either can't get parts, or can't get the right parts for. A Disco with a tranny problem and 110 in need of a pinion seal at a friend's house. And another Disco in the middle of a head job.

Just like cobbler's children, MY truck doesn't get much lovin' these days.

Peace,
Paul

I'll 2nd the near impossibility of removing the pitman arms. I replaced my beat up RRC box with a much newer disco box and was unable to remove the pitman arms from either. So I left the arm, and went to a new cross tube.

'Mog:
I found that it requires a hella puller, an impact wrench, a BFW, and patience. Once I found a good puller, I drew the puller down tight and wacked the arm a few times, drew down on the puller again and wacked it a few more times, drew down again and as I was trying to stand up from the crouched position I was in, the arm snapped off the splines and hit me in the leg, damned near knocking me down! The wife, being ever so kind told me she wouldn't tell you guys if I cried. Yeah right!:flipoff2: I jumped up, biting my tongue and said it didn't even hurt as I staggered away to my beer.

Peace,
Paul

Paul - sounds like you have well earned your BKP badge, eh? ;)

BKP badge?:confused:

damn i slipped a reference to the purists :flipoff2:

"Bloody Knuckles Pub" - it's a grill badge that bubbled up from the folks off the LRO email based rover list.

"for which I either can't get parts, or can't get the right parts for"

Perhaps you should look into a new supplier.

Ron

Paul, et. al,

If I can get it off, is it really worth it to put on a non-captive balljoint off a late model rover? Are they much stronger?

Chris

Originally posted by PTSchram
'Mog:
I found that it requires a hella puller, an impact wrench, a BFW, and patience. Once I found a good puller, I drew the puller down tight and wacked the arm a few times, drew down on the puller again and wacked it a few more times, drew down again and as I was trying to stand up from the crouched position I was in, the arm snapped off the splines and hit me in the leg, damned near knocking me down! The wife, being ever so kind told me she wouldn't tell you guys if I cried. Yeah right!:flipoff2: I jumped up, biting my tongue and said it didn't even hurt as I staggered away to my beer.

Peace,
Paul

Killed one puller, then brought in the big bad one, along with a BFH and HEAT, and tightened it up and beat on it once or twice a day for almost a week.....didn't $&#%ing budge

Originally posted by evilfij
"for which I either can't get parts, or can't get the right parts for"

Perhaps you should look into a new supplier.

Ron

I am using a number of suppliers, both here and in the UK. Names omitted to protect the guilty. Trust me, I'm using most of the common suppliers.

CK-I don't know if the non-captive tie rod ends are any stronger, but they are less expensive and much more easily replaced. I drive and drive and drive. Replacement of wear parts is important to me.

Mog-I didn't want to use heat for fear of destroying purportedly good seals.

Peace,
Paul