Are there any drawbacks to replacing the rotoflex on a DI with a machined solid spacer? either alum or steel?

Yea I know a DS conversion is the way to go, but I want to be a cheap bastard.

Uhh, yea. Its gona fawk up alot of shiat if you do that!!

LOL

:)

Ron

:eek: :eek: :eek:

Originally posted by little_joe
Are there any drawbacks to replacing the rotoflex on a DI with a machined solid spacer? either alum or steel?

Yea I know a DS conversion is the way to go, but I want to be a cheap bastard.

If you really want to be a cheap bastard just remove the rear driveline and replace it with (nothing).

Originally posted by little_joe
Are there any drawbacks to replacing the rotoflex on a DI with a machined solid spacer? either alum or steel?

Yea I know a DS conversion is the way to go, but I want to be a cheap bastard.

Eons ago when I had my D1, I replaced the driveshaft with one from a rangie without the rubber rotorflex thing. This was due to going to series 4.77 R&P witch had a different pinion flange ( and stuff ) and wouldn't mate ( MERV ) with the rotoflex setup..

Prolly setya back almost $500 in parts ( if new )

PS: don't go to series R&P there kinda weak

Thanks TowW. I've heard of using the RR DS, maybe I'll look for one.

So KC, what'll get f'ed up? This Disco is new to me and I'm trying to learn more about it, so a little explanation would be helpful.

Ok, so the suspension compresses, adn your pinion angle changes etc, if the shaft was mounted solidly to the axle, which is what you are saying, the drive shaft woudl try to rip out your t-case, with every bump. To tell you the tructh, if you did this "MOD", you probably would not have any real suspension, untill the upper u Joint finally broke, and took the tail housing off the t-case.

Do this, Draw it out on a piece of paper on a side view, and you will understand.

Ok thanks KC. I just *assumed* (my mistake) the rear DS had a slip yoke, I should have looked before opening my mouth. Guess I'll investigate a new DS, whether from a RR or the conversion ones. Dang.

Check with George at Roversdownsouth. He has the conversion pinion flange needed and possibly the driveshafts as well.

Bill R.

doesent matter if it has a slip yoke, it will do the same thing

Sorry to dredge this back up.

KC, I understand why DS's have slip yokes. Why would a DS w/ a slip yoke be a problem on a Disco? so long as the DS has enough compression and extension for full suspension movement?

Just about every 4WD made has slip yoke / sliding DS. I'm not talking about the Jeep design where it's at the t-case output.

Thanks.

Let me see if I can splain it. Say you're on a perfectly smooth road and don't have a DS with a slip yoke (in a perfect world). If your pinion is pointed directly at the T case then you won't even need a UJ or rubber donut. Cause the whole thing looks like one straight line.
Realistically, your pinion isn't pointed directly at the Tcase so there's a little angle in there. As your DS is rotating, it's flexing the little rubber donut thingie on every revolution. Same thing happens to a DS with an UJ. If you replaced the rubber with a solid piece of metal, there won't be any compression and there'll be a meltdown. Your slip yoke comes into play when your rear axle housing is going up/down on a rough terrain or a bumpy road.

To illustrate further, use a 3/8" Universal Socket Joint and 6" long 3/8" extension. You can simulate a DS by spinning the whole thing in your hands. Watch the UJ piece as you rotate the whole thing and notice compression/extension. Now move one hand up/down to simulate a bumpy road and you'll see the need for a slip yoke.

This pic should show you what you need to know. BAsically, unless the rear axle followed a perfect arc exactly the length of the drive shaft, the drive shaft will need many flex points to allow suspension travel.