I've got a Chicago Electric 230V/120A welder. I'm getting the hang of welding, learning how to lay down a half-way decent bead. I've already done a SOA on the rear, the front's got a SRS with 4" SUA still. I'm thinking this weekend I'll do the front. I've got a D44 that I'll have to weld the perch to the cast housing on the driver's side. Is the welder hot enough, and will pre-heating with a propane torch do the trick? Or should I send this one to a shop with a bigger welder who knows what they're doing? As far as welding to cast iron, would practicing on a couple old brake drums simulate welding to a diff housing? And I could borrow a Lincoln WeldPak 155 if that makes a difference. As far as wire goes, I'm having pretty good luck with .030 ER-70S-6. Is that a good choice for this weld? Thanks a lot for any help I can get.

If you have to ask I would take it to a shop. Cast is tricky. Ask yourself if you trust your welding. Can you do 75 mph down the road and not worry about it. If you answer yes than go ahead.

As for preheating I like to use oxy/act. If you dont have access to those then propane will work. Might take about 5 minutes. Your welder should be ok if you are doing good welds.

is it cast iron or cast steel?

with 120 amps, it will have to be supurbly cleaned.

brake cleaner, wire brush, more brake cleaner, wire brush ......

Neither of the 2 welders have anywhere near enough juice to penitrate the housing so don't even try it. thats my .02

The wire you have for it is a good choice but I liked .023 even better when welding box tubing with my 155.

The D44 is cast steel right? My mistake. At some point I want to start doing my own work, that's why I'm asking these questions. If I can make a weld that I can't break off a brake drum with a sledge hammer, can I assume the welds I make on the diff will hold? I may take it to Fat City Off-Road anyway, but I want to learn for future projects. Again, thanks for the feedback.

I think the brake dru,m is probably cast iron, but im guessing.


You will be able to stick that perch on there with that welder, but it wont be really strong.

just find someone with an old stick machine and weld it with that.

Originally posted by withamc
The D44 is cast steel right? My mistake. At some point I want to start doing my own work, that's why I'm asking these questions. If I can make a weld that I can't break off a brake drum with a sledge hammer, can I assume the welds I make on the diff will hold? I may take it to Fat City Off-Road anyway, but I want to learn for future projects. Again, thanks for the feedback.

Just because you made a weld that you can't break doesn't mean that your next weld will not break. All you need is a single slug inclusion at the right place and whack, you're done! You want at least 99 % success rate for your welds before attempt a load bearing structural weld. There are plenty of other projects that you can practice on: bumpers, tire carriers, rock rails, bin Laden's toes, etc. Suspension, steering, tow points and other load bearing components should be welded on by a professional using the right euipment. When I learned to weld I first built my rear bumper and tire carrier, than a 6 ton shop press that lives to this day and still had the bumper tow points welded on by a welding instructor to be sure it'll stay on.

get all your perches straight and tack weld em on with the tiny welder. then get em done right with a stick welder...best part is all the real welder has to do is run 4 beads, and you get to do all the set up yourself.

Hunter