couldn't one just use a ball valve for a line lock? it would even be cool that you could slowly release the pressure using the lever.

We use them but you have to be careful that you get a high quality ball valve that withstands the corrosiveness of brake fluid. As for letting them off slowly...it doesn't really work that way unless you can turn that handle microns at a time.

I heard they leak like a bitch on the rag, can't hold the pressure long enough.

I have a good idea, why not use line locks for line locks? That is after all what they are made for. :rolleyes:

I've had ball valves front and rear on mine for 3 years with no problems at all. Just don't try to drive with them on, you can't over-ride them with the brake pedal (like a mico-lock).
They don't leak-down and only cost $25 each.

Dirtrod,

What size, and were they just regular household plumbing ball valves or something else?

Bill

I use Swagelok ball valves for theft deterent on mine: http://www.swagelok.com/images/product_images/large/SS-43S4.jpg
Catalog: http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/MS-01-60.pdf

I've been running a rear $5 home depot ball valve without a hint of trouble. tators on this forum has been running them front and rear for even longer without a single problem.

Doc

Originally posted by BillaVista
Dirtrod,

What size, and were they just regular household plumbing ball valves or something else?

Bill

I used hyd. rated valves, I think they are 1/4" NPT ports.

that swagelok certainly looks cool but not worth $55 IMO.

I think I'll go the Home Depot route.

H8, I ran the Jamar, it never really worked right (second one) and it finally gave out too. figured I'd try something that has been tried and true. I was only concerned on the amount of pressure it would hold. sounds as if it should work. :D

Originally posted by P&T jeeps
that swagelok certainly looks cool but not worth $55 IMO.

I think I'll go the Home Depot route.

H8, I ran the Jamar, it never really worked right (second one) and it finally gave out too. figured I'd try something that has been tried and true. I was only concerned on the amount of pressure it would hold. sounds as if it should work. :D

I have boxes of Swagelok stuff that I have bought as surplus. I run similar 1/2" valves for block valves on my house plumbing.

Originally posted by P&T jeeps
that swagelok certainly looks cool but not worth $55 IMO.

I think I'll go the Home Depot route.


It's your brakes...you're worried about $55?
Many of the ball valves don't hold brake pressure for anything longer than a few seconds...spend the money and get a decent valve with materials made to withstand caustic brake fluid and the high pressures that go with it. On brakes, just any ol' ball valve really doesn't cut it with me.

damn good point.

when I went to bed last night, I knew what I was going to do now you have me second guessing again. I'm wondering if there is an in-between; like something that dirtrod mentioned? what is that hydro valve all about, where to get? :D

Originally posted by P&T jeeps
damn good point.

when I went to bed last night, I knew what I was going to do now you have me second guessing again. I'm wondering if there is an in-between; like something that dirtrod mentioned? what is that hydro valve all about, where to get? :D

I am sure that you could find something similar to the Swagelok valve I posted at a Valve Shop (Capital Valve and Fitting). They make the same valves in brass instead of 316 S.S. which might be cheaper. The reasons I use these ones are:

The materials used in the valves are compatible with brake fluid.

You are able to cut them in directly into brake lines without adapters so there is less chance of a leak.

They are rated at 3000PSI working pressure, none of this 150PSI or less ratings on the $5 Home Depot valves. Considering that disc brakes often see 1200PSI in the lines you can see the problem right away with a 150# valve.

The balls are not packed full of grease like the $5 ones. The last thing I want is chunks of grease floating around my brake system.

Every 40 series ball valve is adjusted for factory testing at 1000 psig (69 bar) with nitrogen or at its maximum rated pressure if less than 1000 psig (69 bar). Seat tests have a maximum allowable leak rate of 0.1 std cm3/min. during the valve’s service life. On the units I have tested in the field the leak rate is closer to 0.1 std cm3/hour if properly adjusted. Given that Dot 3 is much more dense that nitrogen you will likely not see any fluid pass the seats.

I only use mine for theft prevention on my rig but they are still plumbed into the brake lines. I would hate to be the cause of an accident for the sake of saving $40.

Originally posted by RockDoc
I've been running a rear $5 home depot ball valve without a hint of trouble. tators on this forum has been running them front and rear for even longer without a single problem.

Doc

ok if I run down to the hardware store, what is rthe aplacation for a ball valve? I'm sure if I tell the guy car brakes, I won't get anywhere:flipoff2:

Originally posted by SeaBass44


ok if I run down to the hardware store, what is rthe aplacation for a ball valve? I'm sure if I tell the guy car brakes, I won't get anywhere:flipoff2:

It's back in the plumbing / gas section, hard to miss. They are NPT pipe thread. I took the valve to autozone and looked through their box of adaptors behind the counter and converted over to flared tube connectors. Plumbed them in-line and bingo, parking brake.

Doc

Originally posted by P&T jeeps
that swagelok certainly looks cool but not worth $55 IMO.

I think I'll go the Home Depot route.

H8, I ran the Jamar, it never really worked right (second one) and it finally gave out too. figured I'd try something that has been tried and true. I was only concerned on the amount of pressure it would hold. sounds as if it should work. :D


I run $39 Biondo linelocks from Summit(I use the electric versions, for cutting brake purposes), I have had them in for 2 years with great results and no failures.
I know dozens of people, using the Mico's, TCI's, and Hursts, also with no problems. Just because the JC whittney brands gave you trouble does not mean that line locks in general are not capable of handeling your line lock needs. Truckers for example have been using them for scores of years with enough reliability to be DOT approved. They have been on every forklift you can imagine for the same amount of time, with a great reputation for reliability. So somehow you think that a $7 ball valve from the plumbing department at Home Depot is a better choice,...well to each his own.
Personaly I like the idea of having the one way valve so that you dont have to hold the brake while you close the valve, I can just actuate my line locks, then at the next push of the brake pedal the fluid locks the brakes and wont release until I want it to.

For me, line locks make the best line locks.

Originally posted by RockDoc


It's back in the plumbing / gas section, hard to miss. They are NPT pipe thread. I took the valve to autozone and looked through their box of adaptors behind the counter and converted over to flared tube connectors. Plumbed them in-line and bingo, parking brake.

Doc

Thank you, so I just need to cut in the lines and double flair trhem corrcet? I need to run all new brake lines anyway:D & go buy a flair tool.

Originally posted by SeaBass44


Thank you, so I just need to cut in the lines and double flair trhem corrcet? I need to run all new brake lines anyway:D & go buy a flair tool.

Just remember that that $7 fitting designed to shut of the 22 psi of water pressure to your ice maker in your fridge, is bought from the cheapest manufacturer that Home depot can find when its time to reorder. So you are trusting the holding ability of a copper ballvalve made in Taiwan, Korear, Mexico,..whatever to safely hold your rig from rolling over whatever may be sitting below it on a hill. Just because one guy had good luck with one does not mean they are designed to safely hold the 1000 lbs of pressure at a brake line. I would bet that if you installed 100 of them in vehicles the failure rate would be scarry. There is no life or death quality control that goes into those parts, if they fail you clean the water off your kitchen floor and go back to HD for replacement. If they fail on a hill with a little kid satnding behind your rig,....well you figure it out.

Originally posted by H8monday


Just remember that that $7 fitting designed to shut of the 22 psi of water pressure to your ice maker in your fridge, is bought from the cheapest manufacturer that Home depot can find when its time to reorder. So you are trusting the holding ability of a copper ballvalve made in Taiwan, Korear, Mexico,..whatever to safely hold your rig from rolling over whatever may be sitting below it on a hill. Just because one guy had good luck with one does not mean they are designed to safely hold the 1000 lbs of pressure at a brake line. I would bet that if you installed 100 of them in vehicles the failure rate would be scarry. There is no life or death quality control that goes into those parts, if they fail you clean the water off your kitchen floor and go back to HD for replacement. If they fail on a hill with a little kid satnding behind your rig,....well you figure it out.

I agree, not the place to save money. How many of these are you going to install on your truck? one? two maybe for cutting brakes? Not a lot of bucks to do it right.

If we were talking about heims on a four-link front and rear with track bars, that's 20 heims. If could save $20 per heim going with a smaller one, that's some bucks worth looking at.

But for the price of a couple cases of beer, get the bling line locks.

-tom

Originally posted by SeaBass44


Thank you, so I just need to cut in the lines and double flair trhem corrcet? I need to run all new brake lines anyway:D & go buy a flair tool.

No problem. Yep, that's all I did. It's been working on our rigs without a hitch for some time. To each his own. It works far better than my old cable actuated parking brake which I could never keep tight enough to hold the rig still. It's been working well holding my 14 bolt with 39.5s and a fairly heavy Jeep. The Swagelok valves do look really nice. I might give them a try next time. I'm not into the electric line-locks only because as I understand it they are meant to be used as a roll stop for staging and not for continuous duty for days at a time. There may be some out there that are for continuous duty, I just have no experience with them. Whether you choose the cheapo valve or the expensive valve is up to you. I can only comment on the one I have run.

Best of luck,

Doc

I hear what ALL you are saying. I have no ebrake right now, I never park where the only thing that stops my rig is the brakes....why would anyone? I park either on flat enough ground, or wedge a wheel up against a rock, and leave it in low 1st gear. if there are people or kids below the rig that could get killed if it rolls, I don't think I would feel any better about myself if a $500 valve failed VS a $5 valve! I just don't put people at risk like that period! If I want someone run over, I'll do it behind the wheel:D

okay I dont have a parking brake, so I thought about using a electric line lock from summit but I was told that it would draw off the battery and not hold preasure for a long period of time so I canned the idea of line locks for parking brakes. that swagelok looks pretty fancy and sounds like it works well, I take it you guys ran the brake line inside the cab then, and then through the valve and back out? Just doing this to the front discs would be good enough wouldnt it?

Mike

Originally posted by muddinmike
okay I dont have a parking brake, so I thought about using a electric line lock from summit but I was told that it would draw off the battery and not hold preasure for a long period of time so I canned the idea of line locks for parking brakes. that swagelok looks pretty fancy and sounds like it works well, I take it you guys ran the brake line inside the cab then, and then through the valve and back out? Just doing this to the front discs would be good enough wouldnt it?

Mike


All valves have a leakoff rate the higher $ valves will take longer to bleed off

Just something to look at

Mine is used solely for theft prevention, so it is actually under the hood in my application. I use two, one for the rear and one for the front. A few guys around here run them in cab with no problems and the Swagelok ones are designed to be panel mounted.

Originally posted by SeaBass44
I hear what ALL you are saying. I have no ebrake right now, I never park where the only thing that stops my rig is the brakes....why would anyone?
And that is the key here. For any type of line lock! screw the valve, a wheel cylinder can let go also. so use any piece of crap. Because you better not be trusting it if you have any sense at all.

Originally posted by 4x4extreme



All valves have a leakoff rate the higher $ valves will take longer to bleed off

Just something to look at

The ones on mine have been on for 10 days at a time and the truck still won't move when you try.

Originally posted by jasonmt


The ones on mine have been on for 10 days at a time and the truck still won't move when you try.

ditto....


Back to the plumbing question. I put my valve just under the driver seat edge through a hole in the floor. The rear brake line runs near the frame at that point. I cut it there, plumbed in the valve, and now my parking brake is at easy reach just under the front of the seat.

tators ran all new brake line when he built his Jeep. He plumbed it to the dash front and rear.

As with the cable parking brake, I never depend on it to be the only thing holding the Jeep in place. I have started using it for making tight turns on the trail. With my longer wheelbase (105"), I frequently have to do some K-turns for tight turns. I've started line-locking the rear and popping into front wheel drive. Seems to work well.

Doc

I was saying all valves have a leak rate and yours does too just read the pdf that you posted is states the rate

I posted that because the cheap made valves have a high leak rate and will not hold for long

A couple of months down the road when the valve seats have some wear the leak rates will be alot higher

I'm talking about a $25, 5000psi, Parker brand, carbon steel ball valve, not some plumbing dept. item. I did the front and rear, it works great for towing,winching,parking...
Just last week I had to "park" 1/2 way down Guardrail rock for a few minutes, while some Pilgrims took the bi-pass...I didn't worry about a thing. :)

I will go ahead and say I have line locks
I just don't think it is a good idea to use a cheap ball valve made for water and gas

Originally posted by 4x4extreme
I was saying all valves have a leak rate and yours does too just read the pdf that you posted is states the rate

I posted that because the cheap made valves have a high leak rate and will not hold for long

A couple of months down the road when the valve seats have some wear the leak rates will be alot higher

I will agree that all valves have a leak rate,I even posted the test procedure/leak rate in one of my posts. You missed the fact that spec. is a Max. value at 1000PSIG with Nitrogen:
"Every 40 series ball valve is adjusted for factory testing at 1000 psig (69 bar) with nitrogen or at its maximum rated pressure if less than 1000 psig (69 bar). Seat tests have a maximum allowable leak rate of 0.1 std cm3/min. during the valve’s service life."

Seeing as how the valves are now over 5 years old and installed in their third truck I have no worries as to the leak rate. Every 6 months or so I check the packing to make sure it is within specs.

dirtrod, I think I'm going to take the in between route and go w/ the $25. do you happen to have a brand name or a retailer who would carry them so I could hunt one down? :flipoff2:

Cant you just put a little rubber house in your break line
and pinch it off with vicegrips when you need to break

Originally posted by P&T jeeps
dirtrod, I think I'm going to take the in between route and go w/ the $25. do you happen to have a brand name or a retailer who would carry them so I could hunt one down? :flipoff2:

Originally posted by dirtrod
I'm talking about a $25, 5000psi, Parker brand, carbon steel ball valve, not some plumbing dept. item. I did the front and rear, it works great for towing,winching,parking...
Just last week I had to "park" 1/2 way down Guardrail rock for a few minutes, while some Pilgrims took the bi-pass...I didn't worry about a thing. :)

You can find a local Parker distributor here: http://www.parker.com/distloc/english/search.asp

Parker and Swagelok both service the same market areas.

i use the summit biondo's i only use it while the vehicle is running... if i turn it off i just put it in low gear and wedge it...... 4th gear front wheel drive donuts and the back wheels never spin an inch :D

And people wonder why we have so many laws and where thay come from.

Originally posted by TEAM X-TREME
And people wonder why we have so many laws and where thay come from.

Like laws against your full hydraulic steering?

I wonder how many people have that warm and fuzzy feeling since they are running the electric line locks from Summit, but have the wires twisted together and taped??? , with a five year old battery with corroded terminals? One slight interuption of power and the brake is released !

As Doc mentioned, I use standard ball valves for parking brakes, I use them front and rear, I always set BOTH of them at the same time, as a failure anywhere in the braking system would be bad. But when I park on a hill, I leave it in gear, set both brakes, and turn the steering wheel to one side (that way if it does roll it will go off the trail instead of straight back down it)

I guess if we all wanted to be legal we would have manually operated parking brakes, and feel warm and fuzzy knowing a rusted 1/8 cable is holding our rigs...

thanks jason, not sure how I missed that one, duh. :rolleyes:

Try brakelock.com. I have used one for 7 years on my ranger after my Ebrake crapped out. Things works awesome, and has a cylindrical keyed lock (like a bike lock).

I run a mico for the rear and the summit elec (biondio?) in the front. The elec is not a problem for most use, I haven't left it on for more than over night but it worked fine for that and definitely good enough for trail use.
Good stuff to consider listed above for parking on the trail, mechanical stuff can break so backup plans are always good.

Also keep in mind the cost of labor vs. the cost of the part. If you try the $5.00 valve and it doesn't work, how much time and hassle is it to you to replace it with a $25.00 or $50.00 valve that you know would work for sure the first time? Time to re-do stuff is a fact of life and a lot of us don't have that time any more. Do you?

I stand corrected. However my steering is made for steering and my micro lock is made to lock. But if you can find a cheeper way to do it, all the power to ya. That is what this board is all about.:)

JASONMT,

for your swagelok, what specs did you use?Size?PSI?,CV? :confused:

jasonmt, is that swagelok like a one-way valve, or do you have to hold the brakes then turn the handle. Be kind of hard to do since it is in the engine compartment :confused:

Originally posted by FFMDX
JASONMT,

for your swagelok, what specs did you use?Size?PSI?,CV? :confused:

Swagelok SS-43S6, Cv=1.5, Rated PSI=3000PSIG, Size= 3/8" Female Tubing Ends.

Originally posted by CJBoxer
jasonmt, is that swagelok like a one-way valve, or do you have to hold the brakes then turn the handle. Be kind of hard to do since it is in the engine compartment :confused:

I have to hold the brakes and turn the handle. In my F-550 if I open the door and the hood I can reach the valves while holding down the brakes. I also have a 2" wooden dowel cut to length that I can push the brakes down with and prop under the steering wheel. My system is installed ONLY as a theft deterent device. Others have installed the same style of valves in their dashes to make operation easier. I have a small panel under the hood with 5 valves installed, 2 for the brakes and 3 to handle fuel switching/transfer.

Originally posted by H8monday
I have a good idea, why not use line locks for line locks? That is after all what they are made for. :rolleyes:

http://www.jegs.com/photos/55563000.gif

how did you adapt the swagelok to fit your brake lines. I'm assuming that you're using 3/16" lines, or am I wrong. I just received my swagelok this week, it has the 3/8" npt nut on both inlet and outlet (male threads actually on the 'lok itself).

sean:confused:

Originally posted by FFMDX
how did you adapt the swagelok to fit your brake lines. I'm assuming that you're using 3/16" lines, or am I wrong. I just received my swagelok this week, it has the 3/8" npt nut on both inlet and outlet (male threads actually on the 'lok itself).

sean:confused:

I think I read somewhere in here he used adapters. I think I will just get an electric line lock, the little use it will get is fine, and it's simple to hook up, and just flick a switch:D instant burnouts with the 38.5"s:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

I finally got one that will work. ended up w/ the 1/8" swagelok (B-42F2).

Jason said he got the 3/8", I don't know what you'd do w/ that as I ordered it w/o measuring myself and you could hook up a garden hose to that thing... :D

Originally posted by FFMDX
how did you adapt the swagelok to fit your brake lines. I'm assuming that you're using 3/16" lines, or am I wrong. I just received my swagelok this week, it has the 3/8" npt nut on both inlet and outlet (male threads actually on the 'lok itself).

sean:confused:


Originally posted by P&T jeeps
I finally got one that will work. ended up w/ the 1/8" swagelok (B-42F2).

Jason said he got the 3/8", I don't know what you'd do w/ that as I ordered it w/o measuring myself and you could hook up a garden hose to that thing... :D


The valves I used have 3/8" Female TUBING ends, it is the exact valve pictured in the first page of this thread. I re-ran all of the hard lines with 3/8 0.065 wall S.S. tubing and Swagelok tubing->NPT adapters at the factory ends. The choice of 3/8" was dictated by the fact that I have boxes of 3/8" fittings and valves so that is what I used. No more broken/dented brake lines for me.:D

Originally posted by H8monday


Just remember that that $7 fitting designed to shut of the 22 psi of water pressure to your ice maker in your fridge, is bought from the cheapest manufacturer that Home depot can find when its time to reorder. So you are trusting the holding ability of a copper ballvalve made in Taiwan, Korear, Mexico,..whatever to safely hold your rig from rolling over whatever may be sitting below it on a hill. Just because one guy had good luck with one does not mean they are designed to safely hold the 1000 lbs of pressure at a brake line. I would bet that if you installed 100 of them in vehicles the failure rate would be scarry. There is no life or death quality control that goes into those parts, if they fail you clean the water off your kitchen floor and go back to HD for replacement. If they fail on a hill with a little kid satnding behind your rig,....well you figure it out.

Thank you.. finally someone that sees these things the same way I do. If you are gonna do it, just use line locks. They arent that much money...
In fact, I plan on getting myself some line locks as soon as I have a job.
Scott

Originally posted by Po' riggity


Thank you.. finally someone that sees these things the same way I do. If you are gonna do it, just use line locks. They arent that much money...
In fact, I plan on getting myself some line locks as soon as I have a job.
Scott
Like I said, if you put your rig in a spot that relies on the linelock or ebake soley to keep it from running someonme down, you are a dumbass.........park safe, a ebrake or linelock, or PARK on an auto, can still fail! I park with either the wheels turned, or sideways on a hill, or tires wedged up to a rock so it can't roll, I'm not going to truct some kids life on my $5 line lock or my $100.00 linelock,period. Still think I'm getting an Electric one though:D

Originally posted by jasonmt
The valves I used have 3/8" Female TUBING ends, it is the exact valve pictured in the first page of this thread. I re-ran all of the hard lines with 3/8 0.065 wall S.S. tubing and Swagelok tubing->NPT adapters at the factory ends. The choice of 3/8" was dictated by the fact that I have boxes of 3/8" fittings and valves so that is what I used. No more broken/dented brake lines for me.:D

now that makes sence, I just assumed you ran it on stock lines, my fault.

Like I said, if you put your rig in a spot that relies on the linelock or ebake soley to keep it from running someonme down, you are a dumbass.........park safe, a ebrake or linelock, or PARK on an auto, can still fail! I park with either the wheels turned, or sideways on a hill, or tires wedged up to a rock so it can't roll, I'm not going to truct some kids life on my $5 line lock or my $100.00 linelock,period. Still think I'm getting an Electric one though

I completely concurr, but I'd rather rely on a $50 ball valve designed to handle more psi than my brake system has than an electrical lock that has the potential of overheating or some electrical glitch to occur that could hurt the "kid."

but this is America and to each his own.... :D

Originally posted by P&T jeeps


now that makes sence, I just assumed you ran it on stock lines, my fault.



I completely concurr, but I'd rather rely on a $50 ball valve designed to handle more psi than my brake system has than an electrical lock that has the potential of overheating or some electrical glitch to occur that could hurt the "kid."

but this is America and to each his own.... :D

See.........you get it;)

with the 1/8" swagelok, did you get it with the female npt on the valve or male? what did you do to adapt it to 3/16"? Or did it match-up w/out any hitches?

sean:eek:

Originally posted by P&T jeeps


now that makes sence, I just assumed you ran it on stock lines, my fault.



I guess I never stated that I had changed my hard lines, it all made sense to me but I am the guy that did it.

I was under the same assumption that stock lines were being used. Time to reorder and return...:cool:

Originally posted by FFMDX
with the 1/8" swagelok, did you get it with the female npt on the valve or male? what did you do to adapt it to 3/16"? Or did it match-up w/out any hitches?

sean:eek:

female NPT. I had some adapters already from the flare type fitting to the NPT. Swagelok has them, just ask. :D

Originally posted by SeaBass44

Like I said, if you put your rig in a spot that relies on the linelock or ebake soley to keep it from running someonme down, you are a dumbass.........park safe, a ebrake or linelock, or PARK on an auto, can still fail! I park with either the wheels turned, or sideways on a hill, or tires wedged up to a rock so it can't roll, I'm not going to truct some kids life on my $5 line lock or my $100.00 linelock,period. Still think I'm getting an Electric one though:D


Well, Thats your take on it. If it was me, Id like to have all safety aspects of my rig working well at all times if possible. As of right now, I don't have an ebrake or a line lock, but I don't go wheeling too much either. I have only been wheelin once since I ditched my rear ebrake. For the price, Id spend a little bit more money for the line lock, but whatever floats your boat.
Scott

Originally posted by Po' riggity



Well, Thats your take on it. If it was me, Id like to have all safety aspects of my rig working well at all times if possible. As of right now, I don't have an ebrake or a line lock, but I don't go wheeling too much either. I have only been wheelin once since I ditched my rear ebrake. For the price, Id spend a little bit more money for the line lock, but whatever floats your boat.
Scott

Well, that says it all...
I ditched my e-brake in 1983...I guess I better pull them ball valves out in the morning...:rolleyes:

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by SeaBass44

Like I said, if you put your rig in a spot that relies on the linelock or ebake soley to keep it from running someonme down, you are a dumbass.........park safe, a ebrake or linelock, or PARK on an auto, can still fail! I park with either the wheels turned, or sideways on a hill, or tires wedged up to a rock so it can't roll, I'm not going to truct some kids life on my $5 line lock or my $100.00 linelock,period. Still think I'm getting an Electric one though





Originally posted by Po' riggity



Well, Thats your take on it. If it was me, Id like to have all safety aspects of my rig working well at all times if possible. As of right now, I don't have an ebrake or a line lock, but I don't go wheeling too much either. I have only been wheelin once since I ditched my rear ebrake. For the price, Id spend a little bit more money for the line lock , but whatever floats your boat.
Scott

WTF? Read my post, damn you quoted it, read that last line from yours and mine, they say the same thing:flipoff2: next time you want to talk shit, quote the right guy, not the one that agrees with you:shaking: :shaking: :shaking: :shaking:

Daymmmn, everyone is getting so worked up over what to use for a line lock.
There are enough personal takes on the topic, at this point, that I think an individual could pretty easily make a choice by now.:rolleyes:

By the way, some of the Home Depots have a very good rope and webbing section, that could allow some of you very industrious types to save some big bucks (maybe even 20, whole dollars), when it comes time to install your safety harnesses.:flipoff2:

Originally posted by H8monday
By the way, some of the Home Depots have a very good rope and webbing section, that could allow some of you very industrious types to save some big bucks (maybe even 20, whole dollars), when it comes time to install your safety harnesses.:flipoff2:

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

Originally posted by H8monday


By the way, some of the Home Depots have a very good rope and webbing section, that could allow some of you very industrious types to save some big bucks (maybe even 20, whole dollars), when it comes time to install your safety harnesses.:flipoff2:

They gots that shit in colors too?:rolleyes:

Originally posted by Po' riggity



If it was me, Id like to have all safety aspects of my rig working well at all times if possible.


Originally posted by Po' riggity


As of right now, I don't have an ebrake or a line lock


Quite a post when you manage to contradict yourself in the first two lines. From your standpoint it sounds like an e-brake is only a requirement if you wheel the vehicle?

If there was an electric line lock rated for continous duty that I could leave engaged for 10 + days at a time I would be interested. For MY use the Swagelok valves are most suited. Plus they have the added bonus of locking out the brakes if you so desire, say if you are parking in a bad part of town.

I thought there was no crime in Canada? :flipoff2:

Looks like I'll be adding both a line lock and a Swaglock valve. Everyone here needs to stop being so paranoid about cables failing, and solenoid valves failing, and ball valves leaking...you're starting to remind me of myself. Its great to be redundant but if you do it right the first time you'll have more $$$ for better things.

I ended up with a electric line lock $49.00 new

Originally posted by Shmitty
I thought there was no crime in Canada? :flipoff2:

Looks like I'll be adding both a line lock and a Swaglock valve. Everyone here needs to stop being so paranoid about cables failing, and solenoid valves failing, and ball valves leaking...you're starting to remind me of myself. Its great to be redundant but if you do it right the first time you'll have more $$$ for better things.

I never said there was no crime in Canada:flipoff2: My welding truck would cost over 100K to replace it and all of the equipment on it so I have a few "devices" on it.

Originally posted by SeaBass44
I ended up with a electric line lock $49.00 new

what model from who?

thanks

Originally posted by BrettM


what model from who?

thanks
some guy on Ebay sells them + $5 shipping, I think he said summit type or Moroso type, I ain't installed it yet. there are only a dozen sellers of these on Ebay, if he is still selling should be easy to find him;)

Originally posted by SeaBass44

some guy on Ebay sells them + $5 shipping, I think he said summit type or Moroso type, I ain't installed it yet. there are only a dozen sellers of these on Ebay, if he is still selling should be easy to find him;)

You can buy them cheaper directly from Summit or Jegs

Being a newbie, I'm not going to tell you which brand to buy. I've had good luck with Jamar brand. I used to work at a forklift repair shop. We used these all the time. It was a couple years ago, I can't remember the PSI holding power but the line locks for forklifts had a very high rate of holding power. Rarely did they fail. Sometimes the older brake line would fail with operator stomping on brake or mashing the line lock much too hard. Mounting them on the floorboard is easier than on the dash, much easier to bleed and not laying on your back spewing brake fluid under the dash and wiring. These line locks are simple. Do not have to worry about manual E-brake cables getting snagged while wheeling or rockcrawling. But I guess they can fail like everything else.

Originally posted by broncorob


You can buy them cheaper directly from Summit or Jegs
Auctuly you can't;) I checked, after shipping they were still $1-5 more, but if you have a part # or direct page link with a cheaper price, please post up, it's news to me.

I have a Mico lock on my rig; was in there when I got the rig.

The horn goes off every time I engage it thoug. I think this is a low-pressure warning. Even if I pump the brakes before engaging the Mico- the horn sounds.

I haven't bled the brakes yet, hopefully that'll take care of it.

Anyone else have this problem?

Originally posted by SeaBass44

Auctuly you can't;) I checked, after shipping they were still $1-5 more, but if you have a part # or direct page link with a cheaper price, please post up, it's news to me.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SBR%2DLL
Parts Total: $39.95
Handling Charge: $8.45

Total Order: $48.40
Charges to your credit card at this time: $48.40
Plus I imagine you've got no kind of warranty if you buy it off some guy on ebay.
I love how they claim free shipping
:rolleyes:

Originally posted by broncorob


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SBR%2DLL
Parts Total: $39.95
Handling Charge: $8.45

Total Order: $48.40
Charges to your credit card at this time: $48.40
Plus I imagine you've got no kind of warranty if you buy it off some guy on ebay.
I love how they claim free shipping
:rolleyes:

Thanks for the :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: do you do this to people in person alot? Are you always such an ass? Who said FREE shipping? Not me, & don't ASSume no warrenty because of Ebay.

Your Home Depot ball valve should say 150 W.O.G. on some part of it. That means its rated for water ,oil, or gas(air) up to 150 PSI. A far cry from the 900-1600 psi various brake systems produce. Not to mention what the brake fluid will do to it. I had a carbon ball valve for a hydraulic system rated at 5000psi and will withstand brake fluid. it was on my rig for 6 years and is now serving time on another rig. I spent some $24 on it.

Get a clue.

Originally posted by broncorob


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SBR%2DLL
Parts Total: $39.95
Handling Charge: $8.45

Total Order: $48.40
Charges to your credit card at this time: $48.40
Plus I imagine you've got no kind of warranty if you buy it off some guy on ebay.
I love how they claim free shipping
:rolleyes:

does that come with a switch? they suggest you get an installation kit, but all you have to do is adapt your brakelines to the 1/8 NPT and wire it up to a 12v switch, right?

thanks
brett

Originally posted by SeaBass44


Thanks for the :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: do you do this to people in person alot? Are you always such an ass? Who said FREE shipping? Not me, & don't ASSume no warrenty because of Ebay.

Simmer down over there, somebody piss in your wheaties? I was rolling my eyes because Jegs and Summit both claim free shipping and then charge you an $8.xx "handling fee" ;) Nothing meant towards you.

BrettM, no it doesn't come with a switch. Just use any old switch you can find at the parts store. Any place like Napa will have the correct fittings to mate up to it. The "install kit" is a waste of money. You can find all you need at Napa for a few bucks

so when some of you that have installed dual valves, you can apply them independently correct? like if i'm just at the 7/11 i can toss the front on....as opposed to on a trail where i might want to use both??....i assume they work only as well as your brakes do? correct? Has anyone ever had one faill on them? I'm kinda mixed between the electric and 1/4turn valve....the valve style seems better....less to go wrong.... :confused: ..... as far as routing them....do most of you just mount them on the floor board? or to the dash? how creative do you get? I'm guessing that the amount of line you would use doesn't really matter, aslong as you flush the system good and then bleed them properly....


HELP!

Originally posted by Mrburns
so when some of you that have installed dual valves, you can apply them independently correct? like if i'm just at the 7/11 i can toss the front on....as opposed to on a trail where i might want to use both??....i assume they work only as well as your brakes do? correct? Has anyone ever had one faill on them? I'm kinda mixed between the electric and 1/4turn valve....the valve style seems better....less to go wrong.... :confused: ..... as far as routing them....do most of you just mount them on the floor board? or to the dash? how creative do you get? I'm guessing that the amount of line you would use doesn't really matter, aslong as you flush the system good and then bleed them properly....


HELP!

my electric ones still in the box:D I have to get the adapters for it and the adj bias valve, doing rear disks, 4 wheel disk fj master all same time. I will plumb the bias valve in the cab, dash area.

Originally posted by H8monday
Truckers for example have been using them for scores of years with enough reliability to be DOT approved.

What are you talking about??? Trucks have AIR BRAKES. When they set the brakes they are releasing air from the system and SPRING PRESSURE holds the brake shoes against the drum. Go read the FMCSR and tell me trucks have line locks on hydraulic brakes.:rolleyes:

yes, only as good as you brakes. I only have one valve plumed to the rear disc brakes & that's all I need. If I lock it in, forget, & try to take off it wants to break my damn drive shaft. I have mine attached to my driver seat frame, just lock it in or out w/ my left hand, right next to my hard mount winch switch. Never failed or even bled off after sitting locked-in for weeks.... :D

Quote:
Originally posted by H8monday
Truckers for example have been using them for scores of years with enough reliability to be DOT approved.

What are you talking about??? Trucks have AIR BRAKES. When they set the brakes they are releasing air from the system and SPRING PRESSURE holds the brake shoes against the drum. Go read the FMCSR and tell me trucks have line locks on hydraulic brakes.:rolleyes: Smaller trucks have hydruylic brakes and are still DOT compliant if they are commercial. Weight has a lot to do with their classifications too.

But I have run mid size tow trucks that had a hyd brake lock similar to ones I've seen on fork lifts (red ball on lever). They worked great for winching but were not DOT approved at the time. (20 years) To pass inspection you had to have properly working mechanical emergency brake. They did not even test the hyd brake lock. I always used both and released the mechanical brake first, the hyd never once let go!

My e-brake cables got half ripped off wheelin now they are all off and I need something other than first gear and a rock. Sometimes there just isn't a rock or ditch or ? But it is the best bet when possible, hopefully with at least a brake too! Don't think I'll be hanging cables to be ripped off again. Electric line locks sound good but seems like they draw power all the time? If they loose power they release? That doesn't sound good!

I have both a electric line lock (frt brakes ) hyd Jamar park lock (rear brakes) and have had problems with both the line lock is mostly related to switchs going bad but it also isn't for long term use it will release when least expected and the park lock worked great for 2 years but now has a cut oring so it doesn't hold I am getting ready to redo my lines and am going to replace both with 2 new park locks that I bought from http://www.mooreparts.com/ for 22$ each

here is another option http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2004092811220954&item=9-5540-4&catname=hydraulic whole page of hydrolic ball valves http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?UID=2004092811251534&catname=hydraulic&keyword=HAOV I bought the swagelok valve like above for somthing like $20 off ebay years ago it still works well but it does bleed down now but it will usually take 24 to 36 hrs before the rig can be moved under power without releasing the valve

Parker Hannifin HY14-2502/US This is a needle valve with a built in check valve. If you close the valve the check locks the brakes so you can even pump them up if needed. Rating is 3000psi.

http://www.parker.com/hydraulicvalve/Images/Series/English/102.gif

I'm running NIBCO's from home depot front and rear. No troubles yet.

I like that I can turn one off with no pressure and just brake the front or rear.



I know, it's redneck...........

Parker Hannifin HY14-2502/US This is a needle valve with a built in check valve. If you close the valve the check locks the brakes so you can even pump them up if needed. Rating is 3000psi.

http://www.parker.com/hydraulicvalve/Images/Series/English/102.gif
Do you press that "Button" thats on the top of it to lock it?

Parker Hannifin HY14-2502/US This is a needle valve with a built in check valve. If you close the valve the check locks the brakes so you can even pump them up if needed. Rating is 3000psi.

http://www.parker.com/hydraulicvalve/Images/Series/English/102.gif


That parker flow control takes about 5 or so (maybe more) turns to full close. You would have to be sure to close it all the way or it would leak down quickly...

where can I find the parker and how much ?? $$?

I have to hold the brakes and turn the handle. In my F-550 if I open the door and the hood I can reach the valves while holding down the brakes. I also have a 2" wooden dowel cut to length that I can push the brakes down with and prop under the steering wheel. My system is installed ONLY as a theft deterent device.

I was wondering about that after your first post with the valve under the hood and used just for theft deterent.

How does he hold the brakes AND turn? Well maybe he doesn't and the theft deterent is the thieves can't stop and wreck :evil: .

OK, after a hour of reading through all the rants in this thread, my way is better than your way shit. Here are some of the links that seemed to have been good ones. May save the next person from having to do the same thing I did to just find out some simple information when trying to find out what the hell to use for parking brakes.
I am in the process of installing my 9" since I sold my 8.8 and need to figure out something for an e-brake when on a steep incline on the trail.

http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/MS-01-60.pdf
http://www.parker.com/distloc/english/search.asp
http://www.brakelock.com/
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=SBR%2DLL
http://www.mooreparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=JAMPK1&Category_Code=
http://www.parker.com/hydraulicvalve/cat/english/HY14-2502cvr.pdf
http://www.spidertrax.com/brakes_jmr.htm
And the best link (http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/pg_index.jsp?CNTTYPE=NAVIGATION&CNTKEY=pg_index.jsp&m=1122219040143) <---- Kidding of course :flipoff2:

I was wondering about that after your first post with the valve under the hood and used just for theft deterent.

How does he hold the brakes AND turn? Well maybe he doesn't and the theft deterent is the thieves can't stop and wreck :evil: .

I actually have that truck leased out right now and the last thing I wanted in the cab are those two valves. The 5 valve panel is now covered up with a nice bolted SS cover and I have the in cab controls down to the ESD for the truck and welder engines as well as winch controls.

I have a Mico lock on my rig; was in there when I got the rig.

The horn goes off every time I engage it thoug. I think this is a low-pressure warning. Even if I pump the brakes before engaging the Mico- the horn sounds.

I haven't bled the brakes yet, hopefully that'll take care of it.

Anyone else have this problem?

Bleeding your brakes will more than likely cure the problem. Additionally, if there are any tiny leaks in your lines or components, the problem will re-occur. I have gone an extra step and removed the presure switch that activates the horn on my unit (the switch is nearly as big as the line lock itself). Mico doesn't sell a line lock without the switch anymore (thank a liability lawsuit lawyer), and they won't sell you the simple cap that used to go on the end of the line lock body with a fitting on it. I had to have a machinist make me a simple plug/cap for the end of mine (Mico also uses an odd thread pattern on the horn switch where it threads into the body of the line lock. I believe it to be a 7/8 inch 14tpi, but with a different angle to the threads than are what is normally found on most hardware). Or, you can scour eBay and try to find an older Mico lock that was made prior to the horn alert switch being added.

Since there was a lot of discussion on this I wanted to BTT with an update of what I did and give people an idea for it. I bought mine from Summit This one (http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=SBR%2DLL) and the "universal" install kit with the adapters and lines. Wasnt so universal, DONT buy it. All you need are the 2 adapters to go from the 3/8 to the 3/16 for the brake lines. I ended up buying the flare tool at NAPA for $17 and had to reuse my fittings from the MC and PV, plus I custom made the length so it looks a lot better too. I had to buy a section of the one that is not inverted flare, but the one that looks like it comes to a point. I also bought a safety switch for in the cab off e-bay for $10, Summit wanted $28.
It turned out great and really locks them up. I left it on over night and had the same holding power as the day before. I added it to the rear since that is where my original e-brake was and always held good on the trails. I am real happy with the outcome.

http://www.fototime.com/FFED912070EB8D7/orig.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/96E213EFB203489/standard.jpg

" But if you can find a cheeper way to do it, all the power to ya. That is what this board is all about."
===

There's always cheaper ways to do "it"....doesn't make it right or smart...use the proper tool for the job.
Just like hydraulic steering, there's areason hydraukic parking brakes are illegal

I just got my electric line lock in the mail, it says it can have holding power for up to one minute, what would happen if i wanted to use it as a parking brake for obviously longer than a minute?? Do you think it would burn up the solenoid??

I just picked up a manual Jamar hydraulic parking brake valve from Poly Performance. Pretty cool. Step on the brake, push the valve down, and it's locked. To unlock just step on the brake pedal and it releases. Can't wait to try it out. Electrical ones made me nervous.

Please remember that you are running roughly 1000 PSI through a POS home depot ball valve in a panic stop. Buy the right part for the job.

I just got my electric line lock in the mail, it says it can have holding power for up to one minute, what would happen if i wanted to use it as a parking brake for obviously longer than a minute?? Do you think it would burn up the solenoid??

I got mine from Summit and left it on over night to see if it got hot and to see if it held. Still held as if I turned it on and was warmer than body temp, but not hot or even close to hot.

In my new buggy it has a manual line lock that you push down and that thing really works too. To disable it you REALLY have to press the brake pedal down. You wont accidentally de activate it like I originally thought.