I'm doing a Saginaw power steering conversion to my flat fender using a Scout II power box. This is part of what turned out to be a very involved conversion. (I also swapped the engine and trans and added a PTO winch) The steering was done first and then left to sit with no fluid in it. I always had the ports covered either by plastic plugs or having the lines screwed into them. Some water may have gotten in there, but there couldn't have been much. I have flat towed it several times this way and never had a problem. Yesterday I had it up on a lift, and I noticed that it now binds and grinds when turning to the right. It was so severe, that it was preventing the wheels from returning to center when I would flat tow it (I now have a nice scaloped tire as evidence). Today, I tried filling up the pump with fluid and turning it to push some fluid into the box. It seemed to smooth it out somewhat, and the bind is no longer there, but the grind can still be felt. It also started leaking pretty steadily out the input shaft. My question is will a rebuild cure this or should I start looking for a new box? I've never had a power steering box apart before, so I have no idea what's inside. How tough are they to rebuild?

Sorta sounds like you may have ground one of the balls on the worm when flat towing. If you messed up the worm a rebuild will not help. But it could just be trash between the piston and the case. It's an easy build.

Thanks for the reply. Is the worm common amoung all Saginaw boxes or would the Scout box have a unique one?

They used several different worm/piston combos that yielded different ratios - however there are really only two piston sizes so if you get a matched worm and piston from a box with the same bore size you should be set (IIRC the scout box, and the jeep boxes are small bores - only the J-20 boxes are the slightly larger bore saginaw boxes)

Matt

All the Saginaw boxes take the same size recirculating balls but there are 2 sizes to use at the same time so don't forget to use both. i would also check the thrust bearings and make sure they are OK.

Thanks guys, I guess I need to just tear it down and see what's wrong.

rocraven, since you're local to me, I may have you take a look at it. Would you mind?

I wouldn't mind looking at it but I'm not that local I live near Divide and Cripple creek. Let me give you an option. A1 auto parts on hwy 85/87 south of the springs sells boxes for $15 I think the good box comes from a early elcamino (77 and earlier)They are 13/16 dia 36 spline shaft are 16:1 ratio and I think there is a big #67 embossed on the box. The 36 spline is the key to a strong box. Check the camaro's also. PS these are 4 hole boxes. not sure about the scout.

Originally posted by rocraven
I wouldn't mind looking at it but I'm not that local I live near Divide and Cripple creek. Let me give you an option. A1 auto parts on hwy 85/87 south of the springs sells boxes for $15 I think the good box comes from a early elcamino (77 and earlier)They are 13/16 dia 36 spline shaft are 16:1 ratio and I think there is a big #67 embossed on the box. The 36 spline is the key to a strong box. Check the camaro's also. PS these are 4 hole boxes. not sure about the scout.

grampa needs a Scout box raven, not just a regular sag box ...

- jack

Originally posted by rocraven
The 36 spline is the key to a strong box.

WHAT?!?!?!?!?
where did you here that?
what do you base that on?
Sorry not trying to flame here, it's just that i'm a little lost on what you mean.

Well, I finally tore into my steering box. Water had gotten in there and the bearing on the input shaft was what was causing the binding. (it had chunks of steel and rust ground up inside) The valve is full of rust and needs to be replaced. There was a little rust on the piston and in the bore, but I think it will survive. Everything else, the balls, the screw thingy, and the sector shaft look fine.

Now for the questions. The bore has some rust on it, not enough to hang up the piston, but it's there none the less. What should I use to clean it up? Hone? Sandpaper? Steel wool? Can I get a valve out of any sag box as long as the input shaft is the same size, or is there a certain model I need to look for? rocraven, does that shop you mentioned sell parts?

BTT Lakerat, rocraven, wanderingwillys you guys out there?

BTT again, where's all the steering gurus today?

Originally posted by Grandpa Jeep
BTT again, where's all the steering gurus today?
Steering clear of this thread? :flipoff2: j/k

Originally posted by TORC

Steering clear of this thread? :flipoff2: j/k

Apparently! :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Since you are hung up on the scout box I would do this...

Go to a local pull a part and get a jeep box - from an XJ perhaps - they are usually not too hard to find - use a much of the guts of the new (to you at least) box as you can - Hone out you box as little as possible to correct the big defects (telfon rings will not expand to seal pitting like an o-ring would)- replace the consumables - o-ring, teflon rings, seals, bearings - Put it all back together with the insides as surgically clean as possible - blow out and clean all the lines, pump, reservior, ect

Fill with new fluid and try it out - you may not have a lot of powe if there is some serious damage to the piston bore...

If it works well enough run it - and look for another scout box or two...

Try keepn'em not full of water when you store them :flipoff2:

Good luck

Matt

Originally posted by wanderingwillys
Try keepn'em not full of water when you store them :flipoff2:

Good luck

Matt

I knew I was doing something wrong.:flipoff2:

Thanks, I'll try that!

Originally posted by wanderingwillys
Since you are hung up on the scout box I would do this...

Go to a local pull a part and get a jeep box - from an XJ perhaps - they are usually not too hard to find - use a much of the guts of the new (to you at least) box as you can - Hone out you box as little as possible to correct the big defects (telfon rings will not expand to seal pitting like an o-ring would)- replace the consumables - o-ring, teflon rings, seals, bearings - Put it all back together with the insides as surgically clean as possible - blow out and clean all the lines, pump, reservior, ect

Fill with new fluid and try it out - you may not have a lot of powe if there is some serious damage to the piston bore...

If it works well enough run it - and look for another scout box or two...

Try keepn'em not full of water when you store them :flipoff2:

Good luck

Matt

OK, here's what I did. I found a box from an old Caprice (had to get something old to match my 13/16 input) and pulled the valve out of it. I honed the bore just enough to clean it up without taking out too much material. I replaced all the seals and put it back together. I had a little trouble getting the top cover back on. I eventually just pulled it down with the bolts.

Last night I finally got to try it. It works great, but it's leaking out of that top cover. I'm thinking I just don't have it pulled down tight on the gasket, but before I go cranking on the bolts any more, why was it so hard to install in the first place? I didn't touch the adjuster on top, do I need to do that? What does it do anyway?

Thanks again to all you guys for walking me through this.

BTT, Where are all the steering gurus?

Sorry - I was on vacation in NYC... To get the top cover sealed up you need to do two things, spin the cap down tight by using the allen headed screw in the center of the cap - snug up the bolts really good - not with the box installed play with the same allen headed screw you seated the cap with (you are adjusting the distance between the sector shaft and the piston - the grooves or tapered so it needs to mesh properly)

Since the box is all hooked up you can run the wheel lock to lock - you should feel a very very slight increase in tension or effort as you pass over the center - if you find it to be really stiff you need to loosen the lash adjustment - if there is no resistance at all over the center you need to snug it up a little - play with it until you get it how you like and then with the allen key in the head of the screw cinch down the locknut to fix the lash setting - all adjusted :D

Don't run the lash too tight as you can split the top cap in half if you try and strong arm it while the sector and piston are forced over the center position = :nuke: + spaying/foaming ps fluid :flipoff2:

Matt