Need pics of frame mounts for an IH motor on a Scout II frame.

Anyone got some? I am going to use my extra frame as a replacement for my current frame on the 75, but the frame is setup for an AMC motor. Building the extra frame will allow me to gusset the weak areas of the frame, setup my axles, run new brake/fuel lines, etc. Better yet anyone got an extra frame around they are willing to grind the mounts off and sell to me? I may even consider moving the motor back a couple of inches, maybe set up the frame for wider springs. Any thoughts/suggestions? Also what vendor sells the poly motor mounts?

Thanks Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda
Need pics of frame mounts for an IH motor on a Scout II frame.

Anyone got some? I am going to use my extra frame as a replacement for my current frame on the 75, but the frame is setup for an AMC motor. Building the extra frame will allow me to gusset the weak areas of the frame, setup my axles, run new brake/fuel lines, etc. Better yet anyone got an extra frame around they are willing to grind the mounts off and sell to me? I may even consider moving the motor back a couple of inches, maybe set up the frame for wider springs. Any thoughts/suggestions? Also what vendor sells the poly motor mounts?

Thanks Joe

I'm assuming these are not QUITE what you're after, but they're the best I have on-hand.

This is my SII-frame tire-rack sitting on it's side. Still has the mounts. I can get a close-up shot of it if that'd help..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/parts/4_26_2001/tire_rack.jpg

Here are some other pics where you can at least SEE the mounts..:

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/heckweek_6_99/image8.jpg

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/5_2000/Image4.jpg

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/chevyfront/one_hub/image4.jpg

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/disassembly/image18.jpg

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_10_2001/21.jpg

It's not "poly" but this is the RPT motor mounts from IH Only - $75 each, guaranteed for life (even in racing applications, woohoo!)

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_13_2001/1.jpg

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_13_2001/8.jpg

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_13_2001/21.jpg

What type of better pics can I get for ya?

I have the spare mounts on my "tire-rack" plus I saved the mounts off another bent frame I chopped up. I have sections of frame lying around with a motor mount on it, one with shackle mounts on it, one with trans mounts on it.. LOL.

Dunno when I'd get around to cutting 'em off for you, but I might be able to.

I intend to use one set when I move the engine back in Little Devil - or maybe I'll fab up my own brackets from some steel angle. I think I may flip the brackets upside down to help drop the motor, too - depends on how things look when I finally get in there and start cutting..

Damm Tom that works out to like 20 or so frames :D I think you might need some help....

Rather then go through all the trouble of grinding the mounts off, if you want just hack the frame sections down and send me the mounts attached to the sections of frame. Let me know how much you want for the parts, time and shipping.

Thanks Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda
Damm Tom that works out to like 20 or so frames :D I think you might need some help....

Rather then go through all the trouble of grinding the mounts off, if you want just hack the frame sections down and send me the mounts attached to the sections of frame. Let me know how much you want for the parts, time and shipping.

Thanks Joe

LOL, not 20.. maybe 20 CHUNKS.. and yes, I DO need help. :D

I can probably do that - just toss one of the chunks into my chop-saw and cut it into a manageable piece.

Freight'll probably cost more than I want for 'em. :) but I'm notorious for never making it down to UPS to actually ship 'em out..

Looks like I should have some extras. Forgot about the front of the Traveler frame the should be around, too.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/traveler/astrailer/4_26_2001/trailer1.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/traveler/astrailer/4_26_2001/trailer_front.jpg

Looks like at least one of the frame fronts is sitting in that pic.. I'll try to look tonight, or tomorrow after hunting and take inventory n' make sure (not like I don't have a couple extra frames elsewhere, too..)

It's handy to have motor-mount forward front frame horns lying around.

Makes it real easy to whip up a steering box reinforcement plate, or to build a bumper-mount, or...

Other chunks I kept just for the shackle mounts for an RS conversion - easier to just demolish the frame and don't take your time making clean cuts if you're not re-using the shackle mounts.. etc.

-Tom

Joe,

what you need?? I got a good frame leaning up against my barn and can snap a pic or two tonight. What do you need, what do you want. You need measurments??


Personaly, you should find if there is anyone in your area that has a V-8 frame. See if they want to swap, or just give it to you. Alot easier than starting from scratch some times.... But then again if your going to move the motor........



*I* wouldn't mind a I-6 frame, Nice strait-6 with the 4.0L efi and a 5-speed would make a NICE driver.....

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
Joe,

what you need?? I got a good frame leaning up against my barn and can snap a pic or two tonight. What do you need, what do you want. You need measurments??

Yup, from what I can tell, it would not be that hard to fab the brackets, I would need to determine the location on the frame, I know the bracket is aligned via the third bolt hole on the frame for the PS box. I just need the reference points from the hole, I can fab the actual mount from angle iron.


Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
Personaly, you should find if there is anyone in your area that has a V-8 frame. See if they want to swap, or just give it to you. Alot easier than starting from scratch some times.... But then again if your going to move the motor........

That's an idea, but I'm lazy, the frame is already sitting on the side yard ready for work, and I don't have an easy way to move the frame. I tried giving away the frame but no takers.


Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
*I* wouldn't mind a I-6 frame, Nice strait-6 with the 4.0L efi and a 5-speed would make a NICE driver.....

Come get it, I'll swap you frames, when can I expect you? :D The AMC mounts are not in good condition, and went through some backyard engineering. If you want them I can grind them loose and send them your way. I even have a 360 AMC ready for it, I was going to sell that to a Heeper.

Hey i have 6 scout 2 frames laying around. I could grind a pair off for you and give you some measurements also. Let me know.

Hey guys thanks for the offers, great to see the IH community come together, so who want's to hack up a frame for me? Let me know.

Thanks Joe

Joe, i need to cut a frame up any how for the tranny mount brackets. You pay for shipping, e-mail me

Originally posted by TERRA-IZER
Joe, i need to cut a frame up any how for the tranny mount brackets. You pay for shipping, e-mail me

Email coming your way. :p

Got some pics of the frame side mounts for ya, Joe..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic10.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic11.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic12.jpg

Originally posted by tsm1mt
Got some pics of the frame side mounts for ya, Joe..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic10.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic11.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic12.jpg

Thanks, looks easy enough to fab, couple pieces of .250 angle, box the ends, drill a few holes and weld the fawker to the frame. Wham bam thank you Tom.

Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda


Thanks, looks easy enough to fab, couple pieces of .250 angle, box the ends, drill a few holes and weld the fawker to the frame. Wham bam thank you Tom.

Joe

Anytime. :)

Pretty simple stuff. If you had a big heavy brake you could just bend some 1/4" plate..

I don't know what the center hole is for, since the motor mounts have one stud on top (into the engine mounts) and two down onto the frame mount.

Center hole is just.. "there"..

I think I'll build some by taking a piece of, say, 3x3x1/4" angle, then "triangle" in the ends.

Take an "L" (upside down, in this case) and put it against the frame.

Then come from the "inboard" (hanging over nothing) on either end down to the bottom to sorta box it.

I want to do that, but turn 'em over. Turn the trans x-member over, and bam, insta engine drop.

'course, that'll be after I move the engine back 12-14" and down 3" to start with. :D

Originally posted by tsm1mt


Anytime. :)

Pretty simple stuff. If you had a big heavy brake you could just bend some 1/4" plate..

I don't know what the center hole is for, since the motor mounts have one stud on top (into the engine mounts) and two down onto the frame mount.

Center hole is just.. "there"..

I think I'll build some by taking a piece of, say, 3x3x1/4" angle, then "triangle" in the ends.

Take an "L" (upside down, in this case) and put it against the frame.

Then come from the "inboard" (hanging over nothing) on either end down to the bottom to sorta box it.

I want to do that, but turn 'em over. Turn the trans x-member over, and bam, insta engine drop.

'course, that'll be after I move the engine back 12-14" and down 3" to start with. :D

And cut a hole in your floorboards to fit the tranny into when you slide it that far back? Didn't think there was *that* much room back there?

Originally posted by Hooper


And cut a hole in your floorboards to fit the tranny into when you slide it that far back? Didn't think there was *that* much room back there?

Floorboard? Hah.

The trans is the easy part.. it's getting dropped 3-5" which'll make it easy to clear stuff.

Hard part is the engine vs. the FIREWALL.

Probably just cut the firewall about the size of the engine (it'll get close to the column mounting area), then cut alongside the trans tunnel all the way back to the step.

Cut 14" off the rear (near the step) of the trans tunnel area.

Slide it back.

Weld back in.

Then figure out how to add sheetmetal back to fill the gap between the old firewall and the moved back firewall.

I'd like to do something like lightweight angle around the perimeter of the moved tunnel and the old firewall, then use dome dzus fasteners to fasten on the new sheetmetal.

That way it'd be easier to change plugs. :D

I change plugs every other race.. and I don't want to yank the motor just for that, that often.

Then move the gas pedal over and maybe move the brake pedal over.

The ratchet shifter will be happier - less of a "U" in the cable.

Anyone else have a better idea?

I have to go back at least 10" to clear the crank and oil pump.. but somewhere around 14" and I can take my Tom Wood's long-travel front 'shaft and put it in the rear, then order a new front shaft.

Front is around 27" now.. rear should be 39"-ish.. Might only move it 12" then.. all depends on how it works out when I get there, but that's the idea.

-Tom

simple solution to moving the engine back *that* far.... move the front axle forward!!


Shoot, my trail rig as already 2-3" farther forward, for a (the) race rig, move it even farther and re-raduis the wheel wells to look right.....

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
simple solution to moving the engine back *that* far.... move the front axle forward!!


Shoot, my trail rig as already 2-3" farther forward, for a (the) race rig, move it even farther and re-raduis the wheel wells to look right.....

Not a bad idea either.

Of course, I'll put pushing on the LWB class (which wouldn't be bad, as long as I break over into LWB, instead of being the longest SWB)

.. and of course, the material to move the axle forward will add weight.

Part of the idea of moving the engine back is that I can drop more weight from the rear of the tub and still keep it halfway balanced.

The 3-5" drop won't hurt cornering ability or driveshaft angles any either. :D

Trail rig'll need the front end moved forward, too, I'm sure.

BTW, Mark.. have you checked your oilpan clearance at stuff yet?

Also.. got any "axle to frame" figures for me?

How's that "flat" pitman arm look? I need two. :D

top of axle tube to bottom of frame (no bump stop bracket any more) : 13"

Get 8" in "decent" stuff, 22+" in "decent" extention.. :D


Wheel base is ~103, but have to re-measure when its done. Front axle clearance is great!!!, the axle does not move much front to back as is cycles, moves more forward.


I am haveing a problem with my drag-link hitting my strait-steer, have to re-engineer that :rolleyes:

Haven't got my new arms yet :( so I haven't switched pitman-arms yet... got two to chose from :D


I *HOPE* to go wheeling this weekend... but I doubt it :( too much little stuff to do, and little/no time.....

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
top of axle tube to bottom of frame (no bump stop bracket any more) : 13"


Hmm.. "Tigger" on 4" Skyjackers sits with about 9" between the axle and frame on the driver's side (passenger side has the cast housing/perch getting in the way along with the bump stop bracket)

So you have about 4" more lift over me.. or roughly 7-8" overall suspension lift.

Hmmm..

Get that thing together and go around somer corners at speed, would ya! :D

I'll get a measruement off Little Devil when I get it back together..

Just a thought


but what about maounting the engine like the 60's pickups with V-8s

thay use a cross member in the front of the enging and suport it from the front

just an idea


you can kida get an idea by looking at the front botem of the motorhttp://68ihtruck.homestead.com/files/Pulley1.jpg

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
Just a thought


but what about maounting the engine like the 60's pickups with V-8s

thay use a cross member in the front of the enging and suport it from the front

just an idea


you can kida get an idea by looking at the front botem of the motor

I've thought of that ,too. Or the dogbone mounts on my Travelall.

Those styles all require using the bellhousing mounts, too, which is where most of the torque is put.

Just a slightly different set of issues to deal with then. :-)

And for my rig, I need all the support at the back of the trans as I can get .. as iit is I keep breaking tailhousings and Dana 20s. :D

Originally posted by tsm1mt




Those styles all require using the bellhousing mounts, too, which is where most of the torque is put.



yeah I thought that might of been a problem :rasta:

Originally posted by tsm1mt

Hmm.. "Tigger" on 4" Skyjackers sits with about 9" between the axle and frame on the driver's side (passenger side has the cast housing/perch getting in the way along with the bump stop bracket)

So you have about 4" more lift over me.. or roughly 7-8" overall suspension lift.

Hmmm..

Get that thing together and go around somer corners at speed, would ya! :D

I'll get a measruement off Little Devil when I get it back together..

Dang. I was going to measure mine last night but forgot.

Hurry up Mark. You can get it together by Saturday. You don't have that much left to do.