Well did the disc brake conversion today and it turned out greatl. No problems at all everything bolted up and away I went. Mad props to TSM they make a good product. Pics on the way

here is a pic of the bracket mounted

no here it is

here is one of the caliper, you have to grind off a little nipple on the the casting to make it fit correctly but it only takes a minute or two

here is one with the rotor and the bracket w/ a little mud from this morning adventure

one more with everything on

my brakes are still a little spongy but I need to go threw the bleeding process one more time and hit every joint betweent he brakes and the master cylinder just to check for absolutly no air but they work great and no proportioning valve for those curious no need for one on a 60.

Originally posted by smtyblt
my brakes are still a little spongy but I need to go threw the bleeding process one more time and hit every joint betweent he brakes and the master cylinder just to check for absolutly no air but they work great and no proportioning valve for those curious no need for one on a 60.

I think, IIRC from doing my research on rear disc conversions, there's two more things you've gotta do to make the discs work right, and that's to remove a small valve from the rear line connection at the master cylinder that's put there to keep a small amount of pressure against the shoes (to keep the springs from pulling back too hard I would assume), and that keeps the pads from dragging; and then to adjust the LSPV so that it doesn't send as much pressure to your rear discs when you brake, so to avoid locking the rears prematurely.

PS are the lines and connections any different than the Toyota lines, and did you get an ebrake kit?

Looks great man! haha i love the mud on the leafs. Caint wait to see your rig in action sometime at tellico. Drop me a PM of when you may be headin up next and i will see if i can make it up.

:flipoff2: I call bull$hit on the mud:flipoff2: The axle housing and all is too clean and the only mud to be found is sitting on top of the spring. Nice touch though;)

well close call on the mud it was actually just a muddy road behind the shop no wheeling just good old slick Virginia clay.

there's two more things you've gotta do to make the discs work right, and that's to remove a small valve from the rear line connection at the master cylinder that's put there to keep a small amount of pressure against the shoes (to keep the springs from pulling back too hard I would assume), and that keeps the pads from dragging; and then to adjust the LSPV so that it doesn't send as much pressure to your rear discs when you brake, so to avoid locking the rears prematurely.

Just to let you know I thought the same thing but went to take out the residual valve and there wasnt one so I figure I am doing ok since I have disconnected the LSPV and I have tested the brakes today and much to my enjoyment I stood on the brakes at 60 mph and the front locked up then pushed a little harder and then the rears locked up finally. they work great with no adjusting valve. and now that I think about it the guy at TSM said he did not think I would need one since the front are 4 piston calipers and the rear are now going to be single piston. and the fact that the length of line with close to the same pressure would be fine.
In other words 1500 psi stretched over 20 feet of line isnt 1500 psi anymore but 1500 stretched over 8 feet of line is much closer.

any way he was right along with a number of different 60 owners that have done this and other similar kits you dont need an adjusting valve.

Originally posted by smtyblt
well close call on the mud it was actually just a muddy road behind the shop no wheeling just good old slick Virginia clay.



Just to let you know I thought the same thing but went to take out the residual valve and there wasnt one so I figure I am doing ok since I have disconnected the LSPV and I have tested the brakes today and much to my enjoyment I stood on the brakes at 60 mph and the front locked up then pushed a little harder and then the rears locked up finally. they work great with no adjusting valve. and now that I think about it the guy at TSM said he did not think I would need one since the front are 4 piston calipers and the rear are now going to be single piston. and the fact that the length of line with close to the same pressure would be fine.
In other words 1500 psi stretched over 20 feet of line isnt 1500 psi anymore but 1500 stretched over 8 feet of line is much closer.

any way he was right along with a number of different 60 owners that have done this and other similar kits you dont need an adjusting valve.

Interesting. I'd still keep my LSPV once I'm able to do the conversion (at least to see a difference between with and without it), but that's strange that the valve wasn't in the master cylinder. Unless it's integrated into the LSPV, which I guess would make sense :idea:

yeh the best I can figure is that it is in the LSPV because I could not find it now no in specific said that my truck had one but in general when you read research this topic you hear that the residualvalve had to come out of the master cylinder. but like you said the valve must be intergrated into the LSPV and I am thinking about doing away with that all together. I think that is why my brakes have a spongy ness to them. They work great and they stop my truck very well but I like that hard pedal feel and I like it when you have to learn the brakes. What I mean is I like know exactly( to a degree) when my tires are going to lock up. I used to drive this C20 chevy pickup that had the strongest brakes that I have ever felt, if you pushed on them hard at all the fronts would lock up. Now I know you guys are thinking high floatation tires and locking up is not a good idea but just the opposite, it wasnt dangerous it was feel once you got used to the pedal throw you could stop that truck on a dime. I am looking for that with my truck.
My theory is that the LSPV w/ its bypass capabitlies you loose some pedal feel what I am thinking is to replace that valve with a T-fitting and block off the return line. that way I have complete feel of what is happening at the back wheels.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Originally posted by smtyblt
...I like that hard pedal feel and I like it when you have to learn the brakes.

I know the feeling. That's why I hate driving my mom's newer 4Runner (that and it's just not my color) when my truck's torn apart.

Looks great!
One of the things I had to add to my rear disk setup was add a 2# residual valve after the MC and proportioning valve, this keeps two pounds of pressure on the rear channel so your semifloat rearend does not bump open your calipers and give you that spongy feel.:D

Good luck!!

-Scott

TTT.. Smtyblt you get your proportioning valve issue worked out?
Remove the LSPV assembly?
I haven't gotten my Fj62 Rear disks to work properly and now am on crunch time. Just installed eldorado calipers, My guess is the LSPV is making it feel spongy.. I have Wilwood prop valve sitting in ship. Would it be best to replace the LSPV with the wilwood?
There seem to be 3 lines running to the LSPV.. 2 from front and one to back axle? What is going on there?
It got dark and It was getting cold out last night so I didn't trace the lines back to the front.
Feedback please?
Bled LSPV, Bled brakes, Good master and booster, feeling spongy. Have eldorado brake cables in mail to hook ebrake, must get brakes working asap or no Texas for this truck!
Don't want to drive the Honda to Katemcy;)

Smtyblt,

What is your setup. I have the factory MC with eldo brakes in the rear. I took out the residual valve and check valve located under master on the firewall. In installed a 10lb residual and a wilwood adjuster. Even with the adjuster wide open, I still can not lock up the fronts or the rears. Blead over 2 quarts of fuild through the whole system starting at the furthest point and working bacj to the master. Still have a sponggy pedal.:( I am running on 37s and rancho 44044 front and chevy rears. Makes for a real soft ride, and I can nose dive with the best of them, but still not enought brakes. Let me know. Thanks.

-D

GLad to know it's not just me! :)

trd55,
Do you have any pics of you SOA on your 60? I'm running the OME 2.5 lift, but want to SOA with the OME and run 37's or 38's.

thanks in advance,
Peter

MY Settup

1 SOA
2 38x12.5x15
3 Monte-Carlo calipers
4 Chevy 1/2 ton rotors
5 No LSBV (Load Sensing Bypass Valve)

I have great breaks now when I first installed them a little spongy but the rears locked up alittle before the fronts

Now I have the LSBV taken out and they are perfect. But when I took the LSBV out I hooked up the wrong line and terminated the correct one make sure you have the correct line hooked up to the rear If you do not you are only running on front brakes, that is the frant brake chamber on the MC is trying to stop all four wheels and yes it is easy to do the brakes will appear to be bleeding off great but it is the fronts that you are bleeding.

The return line from the LSBV runs to the front brakes IE releasing pressure from the rear and adding it to the front. That would be the first thing I looked at.

My FJ-62 did not have a check valve that I could find and I am not using a residual valve and my truck stops on a dime now.

Beauty! Post the contact info on this set up. I have been dicking around with doing it from scratch but I just dont have the time


I have now officially exceeded the limited capicity of the OEM system on my 62. It is really good at slowing down; not so good at stopping.

If you are looking for the contact info on the disc brake conversion kit I got it from TSM

TSM (http://www.tsmmfg.com/)

If you want to know what it took PM me

Thanks Smtyblt
I have
Eldorado calipers
Chevy 1/2 ton rotors
Now-No LSBV (Load Sensing Bypass Valve)

Removed the LSBV last night.. still spongy.. Tried to cycle the ebrake lever on the drivers side last night and I think that might be part of my problem. Gonna try and Re-bleed tonight as well. Ebrake cable should be here tonight so that'll help as well.
If not I might be going back to my Eldorado calipers again and give it another shot.

Thanks for all your help. Your info on the LSBV explained it in english.. Tracing the lines was interesting.. :confused:
Have no idea how that thing could be good! Anyone need a LSBV? :)
Hmm might be an ebay sell huh! RARE OEM LSBV off FJ62:rolleyes:

here are the pics:
http://community.webshots.com/user/55trd

Smtyblt, my '84 60 did not have a LSBV. Just the residual valve under master as stated before. That was removed and the system was plumbed directly from the ports on the master to the caliper. The only thing I can think of now is that the master is not operating at 100%. Might need a rebuild. Do not know where else I could be losing the PSI. I rebuilt the front and rear calipers. No leaks in the line. The booster is off a minitruck, but that would only affect the boos assits. Even standing on the pedal with both feet and pullling on the steering wheel for leverage, I can not get the PSI.

How about this? What is the diameter of the monte carlo piston. If it is sufficiently larger than the eldo one, that could be the reduction of the PSI inthe system. I know the eldo has to house some parking break stuff. Could this be the culprit? I have taken apart the parking brake system on the eldo calipers and it is a pretty complicated design that could be taking away from the psi that is acheivable.

What are you using for a parking brake?

well I was hoping to use the Eldorado parking brake assembly to make it thru Texas.. Otherwise I"ll be installing a line lock of some sort.
I'll swap masters tonight if it still doesn't bleed correctly.. I put on a T100 15/16" bore (I think) master to compensate for the fluid needed with rear disks but will go back to stock FJ62 master tonight. :(
I just installed the ElDorado calipers trying to get the ebrake setup for Texas..
(given the TLCA rule changes that should pass Sunday I could run a line lock) Didn't want to put in a line lock if I can't get pressah..

It feels like the Driverside Eldorado caliper ebrake assembly isn't working properly. From my research it ratchets the piston out if you cycle the lever. No resistance on the drivers side only on the passenger side.. Weird.. Might get another caliper in and try it.

WOuld like to put a ebrake on the tcase but that will come later..
Dangit.. Trucks running great.. Just need to stop it!

sorry to hi-jack , but didn't want to start a new thread to ask suck a simple question. My 72 has a good master cylinder in it. Gonna haveTacoma calipers and rotors up front, and ifs calipers and rotors in the rear. Will a 72 master cylinder have enough pressure to stop 4 piston calipers and 2 piston calipers, or should I look to upgrade to a chevy master cylinder?

Myanarchy sorry to hi-jack , but didn't want to start a new thread to ask suck a simple question. My 72 has a good master cylinder in it. Gonna haveTacoma calipers and rotors up front, and ifs calipers and rotors in the rear. Will a 72 master cylinder have enough pressure to stop 4 piston calipers and 2 piston calipers, or should I look to upgrade to a chevy master cylinder?

I would change it, it was designed to run 4wheel drum brakes and now you are going to tax it by, now having 4wheel disc brakes

I would up grade to a fj60 or a 1988 toyota supra had four wheel disc brakes and I hear it is a direct bolt on no mods just pull one off and put the other on, In your case you might have to add some vacuum line to it but in the FJ60's case he wont.

Smtyblt, my '84 60 did not have a LSBV. Just the residual valve under master as stated before. That was removed and the system was plumbed directly from the ports on the master to the caliper. The only thing I can think of now is that the master is not operating at 100%. Might need a rebuild. Do not know where else I could be losing the PSI. I rebuilt the front and rear calipers. No leaks in the line. The booster is off a minitruck, but that would only affect the boos assits. Even standing on the pedal with both feet and pullling on the steering wheel for leverage, I can not get the PSI.

Well the first two things I would look at would be

1. look at you rubber lines front and back, you may not have a leak but if they are drie-rotted they could be bulging.
specifically the rear the hose is designed for a lower pressure drum brake setup and now you have disc brakes that require a little more pressure.

2 jump to your master cylender and check it out make sure it is working

the only reason I did not upgrade my MC is because the year before I did this conversion I replace it with a brand new OEM unit.

All new rubber front and back. Drop line for the axles are neew stainless braided. Are you running rubber at the back to feed the calipers, or solid lines.

As far as jumping the master, what do you mean? I feed the line back to the resevoir when bench bleeding. All worked good. I did not connect the front outlet to the back outlet and push against each other.

There might be some bleed off at the master back into the resevoir. You said you have an almost new master.

Tornado, what about you? Is your rebuilt, or newer. Mine is original, with no rebuild. Might be the reason...

-D

--Tornado, what about you? Is your rebuilt, or newer. Mine is original, with no rebuild. Might be the reason...
--
Well.. My update.. have more pedal now.. Hooked up Ebrake setup last night as my new cables came in. By the time it got too cold to work on the truck (I could see my breath) I had it somewhat stopping on the driveway with ebrake..
One eldorado caliper is working properly one is not. Swapping that one tonight. The Ebrake lever on one is not adjusting the piston out or catching with ebrake on.
My master cylinder is a 15/16 bore master outta T100 4wdisk Toyota.. Have stocker to try if needed.
Will probably put new rubber drop hose on tonight as well to rule out flex inside rubber drop hose. (Seen em cause similar issues in the past on FJ40's)
So.. I'm getting there. Slowly but getting there.

Adjusting the eldorado calipers with the ebrake is the key.. Did ton's of Google's on Eldorado calipers and constant use of the Ebrake seems to really help em out.

Yes I am running a rubber line in the back and it is working fine, but it is new

almost new on the MC means it was new a year ago

and jump to the MC meaning if all your rubber lines are good go to the MC and see if it is working properly my guess you need a MC if that is the original and no rebuild has been done to it

ie. new one or rebuild the one you have.

new caliper that works is the key. Had a fresh rebuilt eldorado caliper but it didn't work properly. put new caliper on tonight adn I think I'm good to go. Hooked up ebrake cables, truck held in driveway.. Had to quit.. Bday dinner fixed by mom! will test out tomorrow night.. don't think rushhour is the place to figure out if my brakes are spongy or not! thanks for all the help everyone! note to self.. Don't do mods before a big run.. yeah right! when else are we gonna have deadlines to get em done?

I was just gonna call and see how you were doing, glad you're making headway. See my recent email to tac list...

Tornado, I cut off the tab on the caliper that the ebrake lever rests on. It allows for more travel/pull. Happy B-Day:D

As far as adjusting the the calipers, in cutting off the tab, I reindexed the lever back to allow for the tavel and It helped a lot. Mine would hold on a slightly inclined drive way, but not on the trail. Try stalling out your motor in low range with the ebrake. I can not, but I can hold on the driveway. Essentially useless on the the trail...:(

Sorry smtyblt, when I read "jump to the MC", I acutally read "jump THE MC".. duh

-D

--Tornado, I cut off the tab on the caliper that the ebrake lever rests on. It allows for more travel/pull---

The one(tab) it rests on when relaxed? Meaning the back of the throw?
Or is there something on the front of the throw it is binding on? I don't think the stock ebrake lever is pulling enough to hit the top of the throw.

There is no way this thing will hold in low range on my truck! 160 something to one! Yikes.. Maybe in regular low it might slow it down.. I think next will be a Ebrake lever with a bigger swing to pull more cable thru the Ebrake assembly. The stock Toyota one doesn't pull enough cable length. I'm sure some hot rod shop has something that mounts on the floor and would work.
Will research later as I'm done with mods for now. Have ebrake, dunno how strong it will hold but at least it's something for now.

Sorry, I did not remeber ther being one ont he front of the thow. Yes I meant the one on the back at rest. This allows you to re-clock the lever further back, giving you more throw. Sorry I forgot about the toy box. I meant regular low and first gear.

-D

I'll remove the tab at the back of the throw.. THanks..

While we're on throw of Ebrake calipers..
Anyone tried using a "Hot Rod" style floor mount assembly that would give a longer pull of the cable?
I guess a bigger circumference on the curve that the ebrake cable rides in?? The TOyota one doesn't allow for much pull when using Eldorado calipers.
I would think using a stockish HotRod part would solve many of our problems making Eldorado calipers have enough leverage to hold the truck.
I'll call control Cable and ask them what they recommend to hook to their cables.. No need to re-invent the wheel if they have a solution that would match their equalizer assembly and their cables.
Just curious if anyone has crossed this road or I'm in uncharted territory..
Brakes work great now tho! Stereo just Konked out on way to work! That really blows.. Driving to Texas without tunes! Mmmm MTR hum for about 20 hours!.. Not fun.