Z-link or Crossover steering, Hi-Steering what you gonna do. Beefy links; DOM or stock. Heims or TRE’s.

Simple answer for me, hi-steer conversion, using parts from Spider Trax http://www.spidertrax.com, flat-top knuckles, and larger TRE's. Should be a very nice setup when complete.

Cost estimates

$65.00 Knuckles
$45.00 Machine work on knuckles
$120.00 New TRE's
$200.00 Hi-steer arms
$150.00 Tie-rod, Drag link
-----------
~$600.00 Total

The total cost is higher then a Z-link, but is a much better setup IMHO.

Joe

I had planned to go high steer with my 44. I already have flat-tops. Parts-Mike sells arms for 160.00 a set. TRE's = 100.00 with my pseudo-military discount. Rockstomper drag link and tierod = 75.00 each.

However, with the 60 in the works, I'll probably just z link it to get by. I hate z-links though:(...I have seen too many break.

Current setup: Z-link with heim joints, made at Avalanche Engineering. Don't remember what it cost me, but all I had to pay for was the parts (sometimes it pays to know people!!) ;)

I don't really like it, the thing will probably never break but it is not all that fun to drive long distances. It's an awful lot of work just to keep it on the road some days. That's why the truck is in CO and I am in IN. Plus, it would rust away before my eyes out here. :eek:

Aubrey

currently Z-link, made out of 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 3/8 thick square tubing bent by Jim Maulius Jr, with 3/4 ton tierod ends, allmost builtproof, i have broken tierod ends hitting rocks and never bent the arm. Mine handles great with this set up on long trips i drive it to every trail and dily during the week, but i don't have as much turning radius on one side, so in the next couple of months its getting cross over with 74-75 truck knuckles, Haven't decided on whose high steer arms yet, and a hevy duty draglink. Can't waiteto have the same turning radius on both sides.

Right now, "Tigger" runs Gryphin DOM tie-rod and draglink in the stock location. I upgraded after bending both stockers.

My race truck runs a lifetime Checker tie-rod (that needs replaced, AGAIN) and a Gryphin draglink with a TriCounty arm for high-steer.

Trail rig will eventually be highsteer.

Probably Gryphin arms, tie-rod, n' draglink, and either 74/75 truck knuckles, or more likely, Chevy / T'all knuckles and Chevy 8-lug outers.

I don't like the idea of welding an arm onto my knuckle, and I know how to make the setup work without a Z-link.. so that's how I'll do it. :)

http://home.earthlink.net/~smrnof100/highsteer/bendriverrearveiw.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~smrnof100/highsteer/benpassarm.jpg

My price -

Steering arms - 2 x $0
riser blocks - 2 x $0
TRE's - 4 x $15 + S & H ~ $75
1.125" solid BEEF :eek: Tie rod & draglink - $0
pass knuckle - $30
Driver's knuckle - $0 (came on the axle)
Machine work on knuckles - $0
Studs - $0
nuts - 6 x .75 = $4.50

Total - $109.50

Time - 30+ hours
Tooling - Too much $

For those of you who don't know, I build/sell arms. Standard arms are $75 each. I have built a Scout II length arm, but I haven't come up with a design I like yet, but they will be more, probably around $100. $75 to machine a pair of knuckles. Tie rods and Draglinks are $60 each, I can tap for 3/4" or 7/8" (3/4 ton) tie rod ends. The ones on my rig are the 3/4" TRE's (ES150).

The arms on my rig use lug nuts, but the new ones are cut to use standard GM cone washers.

Originally posted by Ben W
http://home.earthlink.net/~smrnof100/highsteer/bendriverrearveiw.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~smrnof100/highsteer/benpassarm.jpg

My price -

Steering arms - 2 x $0
riser blocks - 2 x $0
TRE's - 4 x $15 + S & H ~ $75
1.125" solid BEEF :eek: Tie rod & draglink - $0
pass knuckle - $30
Driver's knuckle - $0 (came on the axle)
Machine work on knuckles - $0
Studs - $0
nuts - 6 x .75 = $4.50

Total - $109.50

Time - 30 hours
Tooling - $250+

Hey, you want to fab me a set of those zero cost arms and blocks? How much would you want to make another set?

Joe

Originally posted by Ben W

The arms on my rig use lug nuts, but the new ones are cut to use standard GM cone washers.

Actually, that's a pretty neat idea - lug nuts!

I might've thrown some aircraft lock-nuts on the ends of the studs just to make sure the lug-nuts don't back off, but.. definitely an 'A' for ingenuity!

I coughed up about $320 for my high-steer (not tie-rod) on the race truck.

$125 for the arm, $20 for the stud kit, $175 for the draglink.

That doesn't count the new drill bit n' tap.

Lets see... steering????
Tie rod and drag link are both 1 1/2" solid stock bent to my spec's with one big F'n press. 3/4" heims all ends. AGR super saginaw pump with extended reservoir. Huge external fluid cooler. 78-79 Ford power box modified for the Howe hydrosteer system. Scout 2 pitman arm slightly modified. High crossover setup with top of 60 knuckles arms I built myself. Tierod is also over the top of axle. 1 1/2" bore ram above axle attached to tie rod.
Oh' one more thing. Never ending squeal from the belt when the going gets tough.

........it steers OK...........


:p

Originally posted by tsm1mt
Right now, "Tigger" runs Gryphin DOM tie-rod and draglink in the stock location. I upgraded after bending both stockers.

Probably Gryphin arms, tie-rod, n' draglink, and either 74/75 truck knuckles, or more likely, Chevy / T'all knuckles and Chevy 8-lug outers.


No offense to Gryphin - but he uses 1"x3/16" DOM for his Z-Drags - non reinforced...Ya, I've replace them, one guy pretzeled his 'high strength' Gryphin link on the first trail run on Chinamans Gulch. :eek: :rolleyes:

I'm about to do that very thing for Snoop

Knuckles = $150 (don't have to pay for this since they came on the axles)
Arms = $150
1/2" Hiems = $150 (4 of them - have them too)
DOM Tube = $50 (for tierod and d-link)

Done

Originally posted by Snoopy
I'm about to do that very thing for Snoop

Knuckles = $150 (don't have to pay for this since they came on the axles)
Arms = $150
1/2" Hiems = $150 (4 of them - have them too)
DOM Tube = $50 (for tierod and d-link)

Done

Why would you run 1/2" heims when 3/4" TRE's are cheaper, and designed specifically for the application?

I think I'm going with high crossover. Dunno yet from who. Probably get Ben's d-link and tie rod. use tie rod ends, whe parts store doesn't stock those?

on a couple related notes, I'll also be moving the front axle forward (gonna use ford springs, so i'll compensate by moving them slightly forward), so I'm gonna mount the steering box forward. can anyone give any major problems with doing this?

Also, since moving steering parts around tends to heat up steering fluid, I learned recently Chevy astro's used remote resivors. allows for a larger capacity, along with more mounting choices.

Joe

Originally posted by Snoopy


No offense to Gryphin - but he uses 1"x3/16" DOM for his Z-Drags - non reinforced...Ya, I've replace them, one guy pretzeled his 'high strength' Gryphin link on the first trail run on Chinamans Gulch. :eek: :rolleyes:

There's a reason I don't run a Z draglink on anything. :D :D

Originally posted by NotQuiteSane
I think I'm going with high crossover. Dunno yet from who. Probably get Ben's d-link and tie rod. use tie rod ends, whe parts store doesn't stock those?

on a couple related notes, I'll also be moving the front axle forward (gonna use ford springs, so i'll compensate by moving them slightly forward), so I'm gonna mount the steering box forward. can anyone give any major problems with doing this?

Also, since moving steering parts around tends to heat up steering fluid, I learned recently Chevy astro's used remote resivors. allows for a larger capacity, along with more mounting choices.

Joe

Have you seen my power steering cooler? I run one on the open-diff race rig, and one on my front-locker'd trail rig. Same size on both.

I haven't boiled the power steering fluid out on either rig since installing them.

Cheap and readily available. Around $20-$25.


http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/tigger345/roll2/Image9.jpg

Originally posted by tsm1mt


Have you seen my power steering cooler? I run one on the open-diff race rig, and one on my front-locker'd trail rig. Same size on both.

I haven't boiled the power steering fluid out on either rig since installing them.

Cheap and readily available. Around $20-$25.



are those from a ford? you're paying double what I pay. I plan to rig up a fan, and mount mine in the truck bed, out of the hot engine compartment. Also, since i'm gonna goto hydroboost, I can't afford to overheat

Joe

Originally posted by NotQuiteSane


are those from a ford? you're paying double what I pay. I plan to rig up a fan, and mount mine in the truck bed, out of the hot engine compartment. Also, since i'm gonna goto hydroboost, I can't afford to overheat

Joe

Actually, I use something like an 18k GVW transmission cooler. No over heating.

Here are a few pics of my arm n' Chevy knuckle.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic30.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic31.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic32.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic34.jpg

I just noticed this little crack last night while taking pictures.. d'oh..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic35.jpg

'74 Chevy 1/2T knuckle, TriCountyGear steering arm and stud kit, studded on my $120 Chinese drill press.

Well Tom, you're running a little late but at least it's something of substance...

Are you going to have that knuckle welded of get another one?

Originally posted by Scout Dude
Well Tom, you're running a little late but at least it's something of substance...

Are you going to have that knuckle welded of get another one?

Just finally got around to getting the pic off my camera last night. :D

Dunno.. it's been cracked a while I think. I didn't notice when I first put the front end together.

I'm tempted to leave it alone.. but also tempted to take it to a weldor and have it ground n' filled. I don't have a torch, so I can't preheat the knuckle to weld it.

I *thought* I was getting another set of flat-tops with the new front end, but my buddy wasn't around (last minute snowmobilin' trip) so I didn't get all of the parts (like the new long side 'shaft that's coming with it)..

If I had another set of flat-tops handy I'd just replace it and worry about fixing this knuckle later.

As it is, I was kinda hoping to have the rig roll-able maybe this week..

Decisions, decisions..

The knuckle didn't break when the front housing exploded.. I guess that means it's not in too bad of shape. :D

Where is the crack, right above the steering stop?

Originally posted by Ben W
Where is the crack, right above the steering stop?

Yep. In this pic:

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic34.jpg

mid-right is a "goober" that looks like weld slag.. I think that's the remains of the stop.

just above it you can see the slight crack.

I took a "top-down" pic, but couldn't get it to focus well 'nuff to clearly see the crack - it doesn't "penetrate" very far. Only clearly visible from the edge view.

Looking from the side/top it looks like a little flake of mud making the crack..

But it didn't go away when I scraped it with a screwdriver.. just got a little easier to see. :D

This pic shows the booger, and you can JUST make out the crack.

Up from the "booger" just a bit you can see a slightly shaded area.. Might be 1/4" long.. maybe..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/1_7_2002/pic33.jpg

Whaddya think, Ben? Run it? Or track down a weldor.. (the guy that I used to have do stuff for me retired and sold me his Hobart 120 MIG..)
-Tom

Originally posted by tsm1mt


The knuckle didn't break when the front housing exploded.. I guess that means it's not in too bad of shape. :D

Maybe that's what broke it...

Originally posted by Scout Dude


Maybe that's what broke it...

It looked like an old break to me late last night.. but then, that was late last night. :)

I'll look at it some more.

I do have a spare passenger knuckle, but TriCounty lopped off the tie-rod mount, and I'm running a stock tie-rod still (gotta go exercise my Lifetime Warranty on that at Checker this week, too)

I dunno. I have a knuckle that was cracked in that same spot and someone welded it up before I got it. The spindle mounting surface is no longer true, it bows inward at the bottom. I haven't run it, and I don't intend too. Flat top knuckles aren't that scarce, so I'd just get another one.

BTW, the welded steering stop baffles me, Every Chevy flat top I've seen has the steering stop welded so it can't be adjusted, but all the wagoneer knuckles I've seen are not welded. Looks like yours is busted off, that may have been what caused the knuckle to crack.

Originally posted by pablo955
I don't really like it, the thing will probably never break but it is not all that fun to drive long distances. It's an awful lot of work just to keep it on the road some days.
I hate to say it Aubrey but you didn't do anything to correct your caster. Your running SOA w/35s and probibly tilted the pinion up. So I think the issues on the freeway are more a caster issue than your z-style drag link.

Originally posted by Snoopy

I hate to say it Aubrey but you didn't do anything to correct your caster. Your running SOA w/35s and probibly tilted the pinion up. So I think the issues on the freeway are more a caster issue than your z-style drag link.

I'm fully aware of why it sucks to drive, I just haven't had the chance to do anything about that yet. Now that it's not a daily driver (hell, it's lucky to get driven once every couple of weeks right now) I can start to really do things the way I want to, and not have to worry about down time.

I'm running high steer on my SOA 10 bolt front end. Plan on moving the tie rod above the springs as well.So far is cost me

Flat top knuckle=pack of smokes and a 6 pack of:beer:
Drill and tap=$65
Stud kit=$20
Avalanche Engineering High angle arm=$100
2 5/8's Heims and tube adapters=$94
1 1/2 in. w.250 wall DOM tube=$40
1 in. spacer=$40

total=$359 a 6pack and a pack of smokes!!!!

And I still have to get another arm and s[pacer for the other side. then more DOM tubing and heims. :mad:

Damn! with what I'm spending on high steer is about half of what a 60 would cost me!!!!!!!!!:mad2: