Greetings to the board,
I am currently looking for a decent wheeling, long range camping rig w/diesel motor. I have a built and beat sas 4runner for serious trails. I am focusing on BJ60's, HJ60's, or drool, HJ61's (if I can filter one into Kalifornia.) Would appreciate all comments and advice. How does an HJ60 with auto compare to an HJ60 w/5sp or a BJ60 w/5sp? I have been looking at Canadian spec HJ60's, and it seems hard to find one with a 5sp. For most of trails I would take this rig on, a 5sp would be adequate. And a 5sp would probably be better on long drives to trailheads. But on certain trails automatics have the edge. I would sure like to hear from anyone with an opinion as to fuel economy, wheeling ability, driveabilty, and reliability on BJ60's w/5sp versus HJ60's w/5sp versus HJ60's auto's.
Thanks for any input.
Jon Bachelder
South Lake Tahoe, CA

i hear guys talkin about how hard it is to get the parts for those "grey" market trucks(ask 60seiresguy) i would just build a 60 with a diesel conv there lots of stuff on that here do a "search". thats what i plan on doin to my 60 later down the road


good luck joel

I agree with cling on after owning a HJ60. It was awesome in stock form but as soon as I went to larger tires, then with the combination of altitute, I had trouble keeping it in gear on flats. Until I turboed but that takes some $$$ and can compromize your engine's life. And the most power it will yield is about that of a 2F gas engine (but it does have some nice low end... And parts actually aren't hard to get. Oil filters are super expensive (as is the oil, all 11 quarts of it!), but 99% of the truck other than engine and trans is the same as a US spec 60. And the engine stuff, $$, but can come from Specter among many other sources. It teaches you to be creative, I'm not scared of finding parts for Cruisers at all any more :)

As for 5 speed versus auto, I would say absolutely go with the 5 speed. The auto is somewhat of a slug in a 62 at 145 HP, imagine with 107! I've heard that specific transmission robbing as much as 30% of your overall power in the box... And they are geared to 4.11 in the axles so you'll have sluggishness I think...

Good luck!

Originally posted by jon bachelder
Greetings to the board,
I am currently looking for a decent wheeling, long range camping rig w/diesel motor. I have a built and beat sas 4runner for serious trails. I am focusing on BJ60's, HJ60's, or drool, HJ61's (if I can filter one into Kalifornia.) Would appreciate all comments and advice. How does an HJ60 with auto compare to an HJ60 w/5sp or a BJ60 w/5sp? I have been looking at Canadian spec HJ60's, and it seems hard to find one with a 5sp. For most of trails I would take this rig on, a 5sp would be adequate. And a 5sp would probably be better on long drives to trailheads. But on certain trails automatics have the edge. I would sure like to hear from anyone with an opinion as to fuel economy, wheeling ability, driveabilty, and reliability on BJ60's w/5sp versus HJ60's w/5sp versus HJ60's auto's.
Thanks for any input.
Jon Bachelder
South Lake Tahoe, CA

Are you on the LCML (http://www.birfield.com/mailman/listinfo/landcruisers) ?

Or the DTLC (http://www.birfield.com/archives/html/)?

If not join, a ton of info.

Here’s the list’s archive:

http://www.birfield.com/archives/html/

I’ve looked into importing one; your best bet would be from Canada. But, IMO, they want a lot for a rusty 60. I personally will eventually import the engine/tranny/t'case combo from Japan or Australia, and then do a swap. A lot less hassle as fare as I'm concerned. To import one, it has to meet DOT and EPA specs. Do a search on both the LCML and the DTLC lists.

Sean

I second Sean's opinion. Find the nicest cheap US-spec FJ60 (do yourself a favor, go for a 1985+) and then fork up the cash for a high end Toyota turbo-diesel and a brand-new 5-speed. It won't be cheap, you're looking at around $25,000 to do it right, but the result will be phenomenal. Besides, what truck can you buy on the market for $25,000 that will give you all those features and last you 10+ years of hard use?

Do yourself a favor, join Pacific Mountain Cruisers and talk to one of their members, Jeff Byrant a.k.a. "Icky". Super nice guy, one of the most knowledgeable dieselheads in the Cruiser community, too! He's got a super sweet conversion, it's a US-spec FJ60 with a 1HD-T factory turbo diesel, an H55F five speed, a rear FF axle and even a factory PTO winch, did it all himself, has it registered in CA. He lives in Susanville....

I would agree with the installation idea, we have sold several cruisers down south and importing is a real pain.

We are currently starting a installation of a 1HD-T into a 1997 Landcruiser(Lexus). I have read as much on the subject as I could find and would expect I will have too purchase a few parts to make the installation a success.

All in all the 1HD-T is a wonderfull engine and the only down side was the lower end bearings in the older units. I purchase four sets of the bearings, I expect ot purchase another 1HD-T or 1HZ.

The rotory injection pump is a bit of a soft spot I was told, need to put a fuel additive in order to help lubricate this pump or it will fail early.

The customer we are doing the install for will be running bio diesel and from what we have heard it will do a fine job of lubricating the pump.

I was worried about the O-ring problems I was told we could run into a problem with some of the older style O-rings breaking down. According to the people in the Bio Diesel sales these new motors will not be subject to this problem as the O-Rings are of a newer material that will hold up.


Any other information on this subject would be greatly appreciated.

Regards
Rob

www.raddcruisers.ca

I would agree with the installation idea, we have sold several cruisers down south and importing is a real pain.

We are currently starting a installation of a 1HD-T into a 1997 Landcruiser(Lexus). I have read as much on the subject as I could find and would expect I will have too purchase a few parts to make the installation a success.

All in all the 1HD-T is a wonderfull engine and the only down side was the lower end bearings in the older units. I purchase four sets of the bearings, I expect ot purchase another 1HD-T or 1HZ.

The rotory injection pump is a bit of a soft spot I was told, need to put a fuel additive in order to help lubricate this pump or it will fail early.

The customer we are doing the install for will be running bio diesel and from what we have heard it will do a fine job of lubricating the pump.

I was worried about the O-ring problems I was told we could run into a problem with some of the older style O-rings breaking down. According to the people in the Bio Diesel sales these new motors will not be subject to this problem as the O-Rings are of a newer material that will hold up.


Any other information on this subject would be greatly appreciated.

Regards
Rob

www.raddcruisers.ca

Thanks for the replies, great advice and I appreciate it.
I have been checking out the dtlc archives, due to my web based email w/small capacity I have been trying to find a forum like this one, not the individual email list type. But I will check the archives more often.
The conversion idea sounds good, more than I can afford right now but swapping in a t.d. into an fzj-80 would be sweet. I like the size of a 60 better, but you gotta love factory f/r lockers on full floating r/axles.
With the dollar weakening against the Canadian dollar, importing is getting steeper by the day also!
Thanks again for all the good info.
JonB

You could spend $25000 on a conversion probably if you were to have someone do it for you. If you have a knowledgable buddy and a place to do it, you could do it a whole lot cheaper. It's the non-USA Toyotas that are expensive but you can find either Canadians or Americans / Canadians in Japan that can help you out. I guess the 1HZs are cheap and are all over the place. They are still naturally aspirated / indirect injected but are a great engine and will run for a long time. Once you start messing with the Toyota turbo diesels that's when it get's expensive. Assuming you spend $7,000 on the engine and $3,000 on the tranny / t case (both fairly high prices, unless you buy from Specter), I think for no more than $5,000 in parts (probably more like $2000!?) you could be driving away... So that's my $.02 But it's still a lot of money to put into your same old truck. My goal is to do an entire diesel swap for about $3000-4000, which I still think is a lot of money but is doable. If you have time, you can locate the necessary parts a whole lot cheaper...

Best of luck,

PS, I believe there is still an HJ60, wrecked, here in Salt Lake for $2500 for the whole truck or $1500 for the engine / tranny / t case combo. But it is not 5 speed, automatic unfortunately. But the engine is still worth quite a bit with only 160K original miles...

Also, you mentioned factory Fr/Rr lockers... If you're gonna do an engine swap, what's $2000-$3000 more for swapping in some Toyoyta Electric Lockers into a 60...? Or find a set of J60 OEM cable lock axles and just swap them suckers in... I'm doin' the electric locker swap right now in my 60--it's gonna be a sweet setup... If you have the dough, there's pretty much nothing you can't do.

I would think the 1HZ is going to be the more desirable and affordable engine.

Have you checked lately with Spectre, I think they are out of most the diesel engine and are not ordering more?

My customer called on a couple of the diesels and they were long gone.

Keep in mind with the 2H you are speaking of with a auto tranny that you have some fuel pump issues that at designed to work with the auto tranny. I heard a fellow gave it a shot and had a hell of a time trying to make that engine work properly with a five speed.

Guess you could source out a fuel pump, only down side they may want a 1000 for a used one.

I had my pump pulled apart by a local company who quoted me a 1000 to reassemble and shim the cam shaft in it. Its still going to cost around 500.00 bones to get it assembled and shimmed by another company.

Also not knowing exactly what happened to my customers truck in the past I can tell you the 2H we pulled apart was shot. All the lower rod bearings had lots of play and the rocker arms had warn grooves so deeply into the arm they were replace.

The AXT turbo was cooked, most likely it was due to the great deal of carbon build up on the back side of the exhaust wheel. Once the turbo was off and broken down I was surprised to see a half litre of oil inside the intake.

This time we will install a pirometer and boost gauge during assembly. And turn the turbo boost downa little from WIDE OPEN. Then maybe install a turbo timer to help everything last a little longer.

This poor engine did have 500k on here before it calfed.



Rob

How ya dealing with those splines and shafts that need lengthening for the E-Locker?

Rob

This poor engine did have 500k on here before it calfed.


what calfed ???:confused:

Found a CruiserHead that works for a Toy dealership in New Mexico and he was able to order me a brand new long-spline short-side for the rear. And for the front, I found a used but excellent condition long-side, long-spline from an LCMLer in Cali.

The guy at the toy dealership was able to get me parts from the e-locker itself (that were missing from mine...) that were in their database, but weren't assigned part numbers at the time, so they couldn't be ordered. He had Toy update their database for the parts!!! He's really, really good. And 25% discount for TLCA. If you wanna find him, he hangs out on IH8MUD.com now--under "80 and 100 series" mostly.

here are my $0.02...
Another option would be a 3B+T swap. I think 3Bs are quite common in Canada, and you could get ahold of one for cheap. (well, maybe not, but a hell lot cheaper than an "exotic" import. Add a turbo and an intercooler, and you're good to go with a 140/150 hp maybe. Stock 1HD-Ts are only 170hp anyway, so that's not a HUGE difference, and will set you back a lot less IMO. I wouldn't say swapping a newer generation engine would be a nonsense, but I think with the older suspension, steering, comfort and all, you'd be wasting a part of the engines natural refined class...

IMHO... :flipoff2:

6.5 long blocks (http://www.gm-diesel-engines.com/)


:) :beer: