My 14 bolt rear end has had a small leak at the pinion seal for a while. It has become a large leak. I did a search and know it is a crush sleeve and not a shim. So am I screwed and have to have the gears set up, or is it possible to change the seal and not fawk up the gear setup? Any tricks or tips, or is it time to bite the bullet? Thanks, Mark

I think you can put an in-lb torque wrench on it now, get the spec, pull the nut/seal and put the new one in and torque it to the same spec.

Search the jeep forum, this was discussed in a thread awhile back.

Found it... I'll try to cut/paste a quote (Thread is titled First Test)

Originally posted by 94YJGuy
When you replace the yoke on the 14bolt you have to re-do the crush sleeves or your gears may go bye bye.. atleast that's what I was told by guys who install gears and work on axles for a living...
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That's the standard response from guys who don't want to go to the trouble to do it. You simply measure the resistance with an inch pound torque wrench needed to turn the yoke before you remove the old one. Install the new yoke and tighten the nut down so it only takes 5-10 more inch pounds of resistance to turn the new yoke. It takes a lot to crush a 14 bolt's crush sleeve enough to make any difference when changing yokes.



Good luck

i put a new yoke on mine before i ever ran the new gears.
gear man said put the nut on with lock tite, and tighten until tight with hand ratchet.
when i did it it was hard to feel when tite was because of all the old lock tite, so clean old off. basicly math it back to where it used to be and don't crush the sleve any more.

Ian-

That was my copy/paste ya did, and the info I got was from Steve Gerstner incase anyone questioned it..

I believe he said it was somewhere in the 700lb range to re-do the crush sleeve to correct tightness... to get the correct setup, now since you have it installed already (pre-crushed )you could tighten it back up as tight as possible like krusty said... but are you going to risk your r&p....??

Nows a good time to go with some 5.13s if you haven't yet :P

I guess it's up to you..



Ian - did you mount of those beadlocks yet??

check tech pdf section, under US military, there you will find cucv manuals that cover 14 bolt.

As long as it doesn't come loose you're not risking the gears. Depth is set by the shim, crush sleeve only sets preload. Honestly I would just go pick up a new crush sleeve for 6 bucks and have a gear shop dial in the whole pinion support assy. I won't even touch them since it takes a big ass press to get the sleeve started- enough to pull the threads out of the nut in fact.

Thanks for the info. I may give it a shot. If it toasts my gears, maybe it is time for those 5.13's. :D But I would need that NV4500 also so I could still drive it..............

What size tires with the 14b? (just curious)

i wondered this same thing awhile back and took my chances... replaced 1350 with a 1410 yoke tightened down with an electric impact and have had no adverse effects... yet. hopefully i dont. so far it might have 50 miles on it.

I have personally come close to wrecking rear ends by hitting them with an impact wrench. If I were you, I would pull the cover, and check the pattern. Normally it will smach the shims.

Oh, and last time I saw marks truck... 38" swampers (also says in his sig line :flipoff2: )

Garrett

Uh Garret, They are 38.5's :flipoff2: as seen in the sig....:D :D :D

I did it today. I just marked the nut and pinion shaft with a chisel. Tightened it back up to the same spot. It should be fine. You will know what happened if I start a Where to buy gears thread. :D