Idles around nice and cool, but when power is used will see numbers over 220 degrees. I use 26 inch alum. radiator, Black magic fan with 15 percent antifreeze and a bottle of water wetter. Timing set at 10 deg. I wish I could run mechnical fan but no room. Seriously considering running a second smaller radiator with its own fans in series as a last resort.

Do you have an overflow bottle? What lb. cap do you have? Jeez, that radiator and fan *should* do the trick!

What engine are you running? larger than stock you might want to trim the inner fenders to let the air circulate.
new thermostate
just a couple ideas Chuck

Do you have a fan shroud for your rad, this helps alot to direct cold air in from the front instead of re-circulating hot air from the engine bay, you could always drive with the hood off...lol

First of all, thanks for your replies.

I started with a 25lb. cap and ended up w/ 16lb.
I do have an overflow bottle.
There are no inner fenderwells or whatever...
The thermostat was originally 195 and then change to 160.
The Black Magic fan has its own shroud but its small.
The c/r is 9.5 to 1.
The engine is fuel-inj and I turned up the fuel pressure to be sure it wasn't lean.
I also have a high velocity w/p which may be too much flow?
I have made several changes but all the results have been minute.
Here in lies the problem.
The engine is a 351W stroked to 426, building about 550lb. of torque.
When you bulid a fire in them...they get hot.
I think its needs more airflow through the rad which means an electric fan that pulls more than 2800 cfm which is the current setup.
Final thought: It worked fine for the Warn comp because I only had to run it ten minutes at a time.

Thanks for any help.

thermostat in upside down?

thermostat in upside down? No, but leaves an interesting question. Do S/B Fords have a problem with too much water flow or not enough.
Has anybody had a good experience with any other additive besides Water Wetter?

I don't know about that. The only time I ever had an overheating problem with my 302 was when I got some bad gas and then got stuck in a killer border lineup. Ended up blowing the engine. :(

I haven't heard anything good about the Black Magic fans from people I know that have had them.

Could your distrubutor be one tooth out?

I've had bad gas too,butt it only drove my girl freind out of the car.

I seem to recall a fix for the water flow problems in the small block Fords......it involved drilling and tapping a transfer hose across the back of the cylinder heads (or rearmost water jackets on the intake)
apparently it prevents steam pockets from forming around the rearmost cylinders and blocking flow...........
I don't know if it would help your situation but maybe it will
Flex -a lite makes some pretty killer electric fans (just south of me in Fife WA.)

Thanks Cro, I'll look in to this.

I'd say that too much water flow would cause it to heat up at stand still idle more than under power and on the move. I think its more along the line of not enough air through the rad like you said. Also, do you have a high volume therm? They make them with a bigger bore and with holes in them to flow better. Good luck!

All you have to do is to buy a SCOUT

I run a 9 1/2 to 1 ,351w ,ported heads all the other stuff.
this is what I have done to keep it cool:
flow cooler water pump
180 stat 160 will not keep the water in the radiator long enough to transfer heat ,Yes I 've used both
4 core copper rad.
fan shourd
7 blade stock style fan
1 bottle of water wetter
2 mazda 626 rad. fans in front for slow going

It runs 180 to 185 on the freeway and 175 to 180 on the trail if all the fans are going.
two ? is it an auto if so do you have a good cooler . I have an aux cooler keeps trans temp at or below 180.
Second is the motor fresh if so (don't laugh) did you get the head gaskets on the correct way . One gasket has to be flipped upside down to be correct. I've seen them swicthed a few time causing a similar problem.

Airflow is your problem. Mustangs and Fords magazine did a review of all the different electric fans many years ago and found that the lincoln mark 7 electric fan blew like 3 times as much air as most of the aftermarket ones. It is $280 at the dealer or cheap at the wrecking yards. Either that or add another aftermarket one.

just a thought and it probably sucks but I had a rear main bearing spin once and caused exactly what your talking about idle fine but as soon as you gotter up and going she'd start cookin good luck

I run with 6 and they all overheat 220 its good for bronco.

That's some serious HP/Torque out of a small block. I wonder how much a external oil cooler would help?

Randall Thomas at www.performanceunlimited.com has some great info on Quenching. It has something to do with the deck height, i think. Just something else to look into.
Ph: 262-673-4077

good luck

I had Ford Performance Solutions in Anahiem, CA do the motor build-up so I wouldn't screw it up. They could've screwed up(head gasket, whatever) but...
The rad is on an angle (lower hood clearance) so using a mechanical fan is out. I'm stuck with an electric job, only room for one. I like the Mark 7 fan idea. Does anybody know its diameter (Gordon)? Or, what's the biggest elec. fan I can get?? I shut the car off at 220, had it to 240 without trying too hard and sure it would go higher. :mad3:

I wonder how much a external oil cooler would help?

I might try an oil cooler but read they are good for only 7 deg. in water temp control, plus there is already 4 coolers on it (rad.,trans.,front and rear steer.)

I should have read your post better. We just got back from Glamis on sat. The Buddy I went with has a 70 with a 289 and only a electric fan. He made a custom rad. mount moving it 2 inches forward and 1 up. He took a flat piece of metal and covered the rear of the rad. We scribe a hole and cut it for his fan.
mounted the fan to the homemade shroud . He is running a alum. rad. with a wild horses fan . The motor runs 170 to 180. Even when duning hard . His bronco isn't making the power you do but his also overheated really bad till he made these chages. He has two flat plate auto tranny coolers with fans. I think you pick up more than 7 degrees, witha cooler with 1 cooler the trans went to 220. Now with two it sits at 180 running at 4000 to 5000 rpms for along time. The only problem all weekend was a new 500 drifshaft broken and a carb loading up caused the motor to backfire . Then the outer ware caught fire it was time to put the fire out . Now to repair the new wiring and make it run. If you want pics of his setup I can send them to you .

Originally posted by Gordon
Airflow is your problem. Mustangs and Fords magazine did a review of all the different electric fans many years ago and found that the lincoln mark 7 electric fan blew like 3 times as much air as most of the aftermarket ones. It is $280 at the dealer or cheap at the wrecking yards. Either that or add another aftermarket one.

I'd have to say that I agree with Gordon. Aftermarket fans are generally much weaker than OEM. I had a '76 Saab and tha electric fan it had pulled air like gangbusters. that brings up another question. Are you using the fan as a pusher or puller? Could it be wired up the wrong way?

just for reference, I have a mildly built SB400 (which are notorious for overheating!) and I run a 24" Griffin, and a 2,800cfm Black Magic. I run a 180* thermostat, and a stock chevy waterpump. I run no water wetter (I have never found this stuff to work) with a 60/40 water coolant combo. I haven't had a chance to take it on the dunes yet with the new radiator/fan setup, but so far it has not gotten over 190. Of course I am not putting out 550lbs of torque (not sure how much.) Gordon, what's the CFM rating on the Lincoln fan out of curiosity? Sounds like all the obvious has been checked, so maybe you just need a bigger fan.

I don't know the dimensions of the fan or the CFM rating but the article I read was in one of those hop up you 5.0 mustang magazines. They did an actual comparison of different manufacturers electric fans and the one OEM fan they included was the Lincoln. All the aftermarket fans advertized at least twice the CFM that they got on the flow bench, and the one factory fan they tested, the Lincoln Mark 7 flowed almost 3 times as much as the best aftermarket one which I think was black magic, but I don't remember for sure. I would guess that just about any OEM one would be pretty good, and you would just have to find one that fits, I think that lincoln one bolts right onto the stock mustang radiator with only a few mods which was why they used it. I guess switching to an electric fan automatically adds 20 horsepower just like a flowmaster. :rolleyes:

I also have an EB with a 351 pushing olny around 450hp and i am running chevy TBI and a alum rad but a mech fan and I run 185 wtr temp and 190 oil. Mine also has the water line cooler around the oil filter out let, Don't know if that helps or not. A friend has an EB with a efi 5.0 and runs the 16" SPAL elect fan and has never had a prob as long as he turns it on!! Good luck

I did more research on the Mark 7 fan.
Tim, at Bronco Alley, said that a *friend* of his did flow tests on elec. fans.
The '7 fan blew (or sucked) everything away with c.f.m. numbers in the mid to high 4000s.
The Black Magic didn't come close to the advertised 2800.
Tim doesn't have the '7 fan only the shroud.
The opening is 18 inches.
So, I'm gona round up the parts and try the '7 fan & shroud.
If it doesn't work, I'm going to use a Scout engine. NOT!
I'll let you know.

I guess I'm gonna have to call that Girl Scout Tim back. He was supposed to tell you that I would take that awful motor off your hands, so you could get a nice stock 351W roller truck motor.
:p

Brian

I'm not gay, and I don't know Jack :smokin:

What direction are you turning your water pump?? Late model pumps turn counterclockwise (off the back of the S-belt). If you bought an aftermarket water pump that is reverse rotation, it will bolt up to a regular rotation front cover ( &vice versa) but water flow will be restricted at higher RPMs.

I think a good way to test the thought of not enough air flowing thru the engine bay would be try driving with you hood off and see how warm it gets.

I think the problem is not getting enough air through the radiator, not the in the engine bay itself.

What direction are you turning your water pump?? I'm using serpentine belt and a reverse rotation pump.
try driving with you hood off I tried driving with me hood off:) along with the grill, fenders and doors. Cool thing about this rig is that it all comes off via quarter turn fasteners in about 8 minutes. It helped but only very little.
I've got the Mark 7 fan and shroud on order. It seems like the best solution for now.

Hey post some pics or e-mail to me and I can post for you ( I'm one of those $20 star boys)LOL rokcrln@pacbell.net

I think your problems will be solved with the lincoln fan.. I was going to suggest the same thing.. I know alot of 5.0 mustang guys like the electric fan out of the Tbirds. The thing is fawkin huge. But anyway let us know how it turns out.

I found this link on the lincoln fan (http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/8408/MarkVIII.html) it's got part #'s but haven't checked it out.

I know it's an old post but I used the search and figured there's some newbies :flipoff2: looking into it.

One of my friends was having over heating problems no matter what hed try. They took some cardboard and taped it from the radiator support to the top of the radiator, so it covered that little 2 inch portion of the radiator that sticks above the radiator mount. I guess it just directed more airflow through the raditor. But after that they never had a cooling problem

make sure your fan is blowing the right direction. you say its fine at idle but when your moving it gets hot. if the fan is going the wrong direction you create a dead air space with no flow.

Get rid of the water wetter!! That is the most bogus product out there. After fighting overheating problems, for a long time, in several vehicles, I figured out it was the water wetter. We've actually had so many problems with it, that we got all the local parts stores to quit carrying it. Some people like it, but I think that it's nothing but trouble.

Watter Wetter works. If you have problems with it you aren't using it correctly.