where can I get a poppet springs in a hurry? novak was no help, I got the seal kit locally, will pick it up at noon. I just need the springs.

Novak (http://www.novak-adapt.com)

Boarder Parts
3875 Bancroft Drive
Spring Valley, CA 92077
619-461-0171
800-533-0171

I buy 90% of my tranny/t-case parts from them.

come awnnn, where:D

Originally posted by Scoutillac
come awnnn, where:D

Get your arse over to Pic-N-Pull if you want them now :flipoff2:

my case is popping out of low range, any other cause than a weak poppet spring? I will sacrafice another case if I have to, but would rather have new springs.

Originally posted by Scoutillac
my case is popping out of low range, any other cause than a weak poppet spring? I will sacrafice another case if I have to, but would rather have new springs.

Hell shim the spring with a couple of washers, I've found a good percentage of the problems have to do with the stick hitting the cut out on the tube. My 300 goes into and out of gear real easy, once I unmounted the boot and let it float the 300 has not popped out of gear anymore.

I get my junk from Boarder too.

Are there any other causes for it to pop out? I have plenty of clearence and no shift boot, I can watch the rear diff side (it is a twin stick 20) walk back slowly when it is loaded. Any ideas? Gonna tear it down this evening and try to see what is up. Could it be a bad bearing or fawked case?

Mine does exactly the same thing. I'm assuming it is a weak spring. I noticed the rear spring was weaker than the front spring when I twin sticked it, so I shimmed it with a few washers, but it wasn't enough. I would look at putting a spring like the one for the front rail on the rear rail.

If the output shaft(s) have excessive end play (from worn bearings, etc.) it can cause the case to "walk" it's way out of gear. This typically happens when there is a load on the shaft... either accel or decel. This sounds like it might be what's happening in your case. Get out the dial indicator and check the output shaft's endplay.

what is the endplay tolerence? I think I'll grab a bearing kit at lunch too and just rebuild the entire thing.

I'd have to look in the manual (don't have with me now). The front shaft is easy to set, you just put shims under the endplate cover on the case. The rear is a bit more envolved. You have to pull the bearing and add or remove shims, reassemble and check again. Similar to setting the pinion depth when setting up a rearend.

Well, I said fawk it and just bought a rebuild kit, gonna be a fun evening:rolleyes:

You should be able to rebuild it in an evening. The D20 actually come apart a little easier than the D300 and it can be rebuilt in a few hours time. Especially if you happen to have a manual detailing the process.

And a press so you don't have to beat the pats with a hammer and block of wood.

Rear output shaft endplay: 0.005 in.
Front output shaft endplay: 0.001 in.

Ive never had the pleasure or displeasure of having to rebuild my Tcase, or T19 for that matter. :usa: