I did a front srping flip and lengthened the drive shaft, I put the shaft on and on full droop the joints are binding. It's a SUA and the springs are well arched for good lift, whats the normal thing to do here, shims maybe?

shims would work,but at the expense of caster angle,so you may fix the pinion angle but now you wander around the road from the poor caster angle.

You could maybe clearnce the yokes a little also

no you wont lose the caster form shims to correct your prob, remember you flipped the springs so now your axle is tilted on the upside of the leaf pack, since the pin is not center. go look at it and you'll see what i mean.

I know, but when I raised it with the higher springs the castor went -ve, so now it should +ve, hopefully I can retain castor after shims.

of course it did, and it will point down more with more lift because the spring pin is forward of center now. if the spring pin is centre in the spring the pinion will stay true. if the spring pin favors the t-case side the pinion will point upward as the springs arch, and the opposite will happen if the spring pin favors the bumper side of the spring.(as in your case) shims will fix it proper, but you may need alot of shim due to the arch in the lift.

What is considered alot of shim?

4+ degrees is a lot of shim. You run into problems with the spring pin being long enough. If you are using Aluminum shims, they pound flat under any use at all and then your Ubolts get loose.

Go to a heavy truck parts store and see if you can get some steel shims instead of aluminum.

As for reversing the springs....I like this mod on a vehicle using flat springs, but it causes too many problems on one with arched springs.

also you might be better doing a SR instead of the flip to get the extra length

Originally posted by RHINO
also you might be better doing a SR instead of the flip to get the extra length

How would you get extra length with a SR when the pivots are basically in the same spot, unless maybe you lengthen the chassis?

When you do a SR with a cut and turn of the knuckle, you can mount the stock spring hanger flush with the frame. When you do this, you will have the Military wrap on the spring hanger in where it belongs, not on the shackle end with a simple spring flip.

If you plan on staying Spring under, I would not recommend the Shackle reversal unless you cut and turn the knuckles.

THe "towers" needed to keep the cruiser's caster correct tand to be a major hinderance in the rocks as they tend to bash everything with not "give".

dude, can you email me some digital or scanned pics of the setup of moving the front diff forward 4 inches?
did you move the rear back 4 inches aswell?
im doing this in a couple of weeks and looking for dramas i might have!
also spring over before you buy your tailshafts!
and one other thing, the diff, now sits, on a different angle to what it used to, it now has the pinion angled down more because the leaf springs are arched a certain way and you may get more uni joint stress than a standard uni can handle (im still doing it, but using correction devices, ill send you pics if you show me what yours looks like, i also have diagrams of what im talking about if you dont get what im saying
cheers
rob



remember when i emailed this to ya!! :D :flipoff2:
dude, send me some piccys, and ill tell ya what i reckon to do, not that im a pro or nuffink, im just curious, my bet would be too, correct it when you do the SO, like im doing by welding the mounts on in the correct angle, then im also cut and turn to get the knuckles right :eek:

yeah, just pray the welds holdup ;) they will!!!

Yeah I KNOW!!!!
the photos are in getting developed as we type.... Tis hard when you start at 7 finish at 6, nothing is open.........
Photos tomorrow I hope.