I put an 84 4runner body on my 85 frame. I swapped my EFI harness into the 84 body and left the EFI tank attached to my frame. I finished everything up tonight but it won't start. There aren't any loose connections. Its got spark and kinda sputters every once and a while when I'm trying to start it. I haven't pulled the fuel line of to see if it is spewing fuel but it doesn't smell very fuelly at the tail pipe when turning it over. I drained the tank about 2 weeks ago and just put about 2 gallons in it tonight. Is there some special way to prime the Fuel system with efi?

Additional info: Before the body swap, my runner usually took about 3 times to start. I beleive it was the AFS problem as described on Roger's page - where the AFS doesn't sense airflow initially so it doesn't trigger the fuel pump. But it always started after a few ties...

Anyway, any help is appreciated. -Damen

Originally posted by 85runnerAZ
Is there some special way to prime the Fuel system with efi?

Everytime I've had my fuel system apart and put it back together I've turned it over once for a couple seconds and it primed itself then started on the second try.

Have you checked for 12V at the fuel pump when you try to start it?

I'll be tearing into it today... check the fuel pump & recheck all the connections

I'm the guy that lives up the street from you, if you need any help let me know I can stop by.

I'm assuming you know, that you must have the cross-over tube hooked up between the Trottle Body and AFM. If there is no tube, it will not start. If there is an air leak, it will run rough.

And if you need a reference for all those vacumn lines, to make sure they are hooked up correctly, let me know. Could be that as well.

Later,
Ryan

Try the fuel pump test jumper:

http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#FuelPump

The AFM only operates the fuel pump with the engine running, the circuit opening relay is supposed to turn it on for starting. The test jumper just turns the pump on with the ignition.

Originally posted by kozaz
I'm assuming you know, that you must have the cross-over tube hooked up between the Trottle Body and AFM. If there is no tube, it will not start. If there is an air leak, it will run rough.




Your talking about the intake tube right? I've got that hooked up. All my connections are good so I'm guessing something happened from sitting so long.

Originally posted by 4CrawlR
Try the fuel pump test jumper:

http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#FuelPump

The AFM only operates the fuel pump with the engine running, the circuit opening relay is supposed to turn it on for starting. The test jumper just turns the pump on with the ignition.

Did the jumper. Heard the fuel pump but still doesn't start. Since it has spark, I'm guessing the injectors aren't being triggered....I have no idea how FI works...

Get back to basics... if it ran before it's gonna be something simple that you're just passing over.

Pull your distributor and make damn sure you're firing #1 when it's at TDC on the cam. Then try and start it.

You say the injectors aren't triggering, did you get the injector's resistor pack hooked back up in the engine bay by the passenger fender?

It's gonna be something simple that you'll kick yourself for later, trust me... the little tip about pulling the dizzy is from my own personal 2 week battle after finishing an EFI swap from an early Celica. Made me crazy and that's all it was. Felt like a fucktard when I finally figured it out. At least I figured it out myself... :D

I didn't remove the dist from the motor so I don't think that's it. Is the resistor pack the deal with all the heat sinks on it?

fuel injectors have 1 gound in common, that connect to the intake runners, check that.

Originally posted by Lord Orange
fuel injectors have 1 gound in common, that connect to the intake runners, check that.

Yup, that bad boy is hooked up. I'm sure it will probably end up being something stupid like that though.:confused:

Do you have a FSM to trouble shoot it with? You can usually follow the flow charts in there and nail it down easier than guessing.

I know how you feel right now, I was to the point that I was considering lighting the truck on fire when I had problems.

Did you swap the ENTIRE 85 harness to the 84 body? The fact that it sputters a little makes me think it's timing or ignition, not fuel. If it weren't getting fuel, it wouldn't sputter at all. Did you move the EFI coil and igniter to the 84 body?

Originally posted by MattMan
Do you have a FSM to trouble shoot it with? You can usually follow the flow charts in there and nail it down easier than guessing.

I know how you feel right now, I was to the point that I was considering lighting the truck on fire when I had problems.

Did you swap the ENTIRE 85 harness to the 84 body? The fact that it sputters a little makes me think it's timing or ignition, not fuel. If it weren't getting fuel, it wouldn't sputter at all. Did you move the EFI coil and igniter to the 84 body?

FSM meaning service manual? I have a haynes... I'll have to see if that helps.

The only part of the harness I didn't swap was the portion that runs back to the drivers side tail lights and tail gate window/wipermotor. I changed the coil and ignitor. I agree about it seeming like timing...it seems like its trying to fire on one cyl each revolution.

My friend has the Four Wheel Drive and Sport Utility magazine that has the article on Toy EFI conversions...I'm gonna take a look at that.

If your interested, I have FSM for a 87 EFI, and a couple of other manuals.

you do have a efi ignitor right? it has to have the crank trigger wires from the ignitor hooked up to the engine harness. the three wires come from under the intake and go on top of the valve cover to the ignitor. you have to have a the right year efi ignitor or you have to cut the plug and splice the wires together for the 89 and up ignitor.the ignitor takes the signal from the pick up in the dist and sends the signal to the computer and thats what tells the computer the motor is moving so it can turn on the injector pulse. it also lets the computer advance the ignition timing from the computer to the ignitor. if that's not it start with basics like spray carb cleaner in the intake and see if it starts? then check spark. if you have spark and it runs on carb cleaner than it's efi related. if it dosn't that it's some sort of mechanical failure like dist pick up,coil,firing order, or your buddy that adjusted the valves just like he's done 100x's and over tightened them, you get the picture. most the efi conversions people look at that connector and can't emagine why it should go over the vavle cover and above the exhaust so they ignore it. hope that helps

by the way you fix will not be in a book so don't wast your time.

I'm a dumbass. It was timing. I took the dist out - but I marked everything and THOUGHT I didn't move anything when I put it back. Apparantly, I did. Thanks for all your help everybody. I'm gonna go crawl in a hole now.:crybaby2:

Hey Ryan - If you're interested, I'll let you know next time we go wheeling - probably with the wildyoats guys...