Who welded their D30? Mangler, I know you did. I am a poor starving college kid in need of traction on my XJ and was thinking that I would just go ahead and weld up the D30. Funds are low so I don't have very large tires right now, so I am wondering about how often you are popping shafts or joints. Also, I have the vacuum D30 and was just going to rig up a vacuum switch to select when I want to engage the passenger side. I'm thinking that this is going to put a lot of stress on the driver's side though since when it would be "unlocked" would be in turning situations.

I've had bad experiences with lockers in the past, but I love spools, so I am trying to shy away from the big bucks selectable lockers or the drop in lunchbox style. Anyway, tell me what you did and how it worked...talk me into breaking out the welder! :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

it would be no more stressful than an engaged ox or arb... Do it, and forget it... I had 260 joints in mine for a while and never broke one, but i only had 31" Claws on it at the time... Running a lock-rite now, but i would not even hesitate to weld it up again... I do have manual hubs, but with the vaccuum unit, it should be fine... Weld it up

JUST WELD IT

This is what I am doing as well on my 94 YJ. Except I made a cable axle disconnect (Similar to the Posi 4x4 for $200) which cost me about $35. Right now I am trying to decide what spring to use inside the vacuum unit (since the vacuum is no longer used) to push the sleeve back. If you want more info send me an e-mail or PM. I already have it working and it is great, I just want to get it perfect so my friends can use the same set-up.

Jeremy

Sounds good, just post the info here though. Lots of people have been asking about how to make them. I know I'm interested :D The vacuum disconnect hasn't given me any problems in the past, but you never know.

I never had problems with the vacuum disconnect, I just want to be able to disconnect the axle to relieve stress from the u-joint and axls shafts while turning and still have the 4WD on (3 wheel drive with axle disconnected and diff welded.) So I still get great traction. All the parts I got were from PEP BOYS. Here is a list of parts, and I will edit this post later wth part numbers:
1 - 6 foot t-handl twist and lock cable
1 - 21/64" drill bit (for adjustment fitting)
1 - ? Tap (for adjustment fitting)
1 - 1/8 " drill bit to drill through fork.
1 - 3/16" bit to drill through body for cable
1 - fitting for adjustment
1 - screw clamp to go behind the fork holding the cable
1 - spring to go in front of the fork to force it back to disengage

First I removed the vacuum assembly and removed the c-clips and took out the fork and vacuum assembly. REMEMBER HOW THE FORK CAME OUT, IT IS OFFSET SO IT CAN BE PUT BACK IN BACKWARDS AND WILL NOT WORK CORRECTLY. Then I drilled and tapped a hole in the center of the assembly behind the 4wd sensor for the adjustment fitting (between the 4wd sensor and the axle there is a large flat area in the center pefect for drilling.) I then measured and drilled a hole in the fork directly in front of the adjustment fitting so the cable pulls straight. Next I drilled a hole through the body behind and at a slightly downward angle from the mounting point under the dash. Mine is just to the left of my 12v lighter plug. Put the vacuum assembly back together the same way it came apart but point the 2 vacuum nozzles down so if water gets in it will drain out. You can't plug the holes because the pin wont slide, DO NOT REINSTALL IT ON THE AXLE YET. Run the cable through the hole in the body and route it away from anything that could damage it, but try to stay as straight as possible. Slide the cable through the adjustment fitting, through the spring between the fitting and the fork and through the hole in the fork. Pull the cable until the cable housing in inside the adjustment fitting. Bend the cable 90 deg at the back of the housing so the cable is straight and the fork can slide, then mark on the cable where the fork stops. Push and hold the fork forward and slide the screw clamp on the cable just passed the mark you made then tighten the clamp as tight as possible, bend the cable behind the clamp at the mark you made earlier at 90 deg or a little more for strength and cut the extra cable off (leave an inch or so of cable bent behind the clamp.) Mount the assembly back on the axle, weld the carrier, refill the gear oil. Last mount the t-handle of the cable under the dash. Jack up the passenger side of the jeep and have someone slowly turn the tire while you gently pull back on the cable. You will feel the sleeve slide on and your friend will no longer be able to turn the tire then twist the handle and it will lock in place. Last unlock the handle and slowly push the handle back in letting the spring push the fork and sleeve off of the inner axle. Then have your friend slowly spin the tire again. If it is still locked, replace the spring with a stronger one. This is where I am at. I have a spring plenty strong, but is is hard to pull back on the handle, so I am replacing the spring with a longer but slightly softer spring to see if it still works good. I also still need to mount my handle under the dash, but it works. And with the adjustment fitting you can set the cable to have a shorter pull to lock, but your friend has to be willing to slowly spin the pass tire while you adjust, pull, adjust, pull on the fitting and handle. Designing anb building this tool me 1.5 hours including going back to the store for different springs. It is easy and cheap. I will put in the price and part #'s hopefully tomorrow. Contact me with any questions.

Jeremy

Oh yeah, don't forget to plug the vacuum lines fron the T-case :D

Jeremy

Here is the part #'s
Cable - HELP #55203 6 ft t- handle push-pull cable. $15.00
Adjustment fitting - BRASS-TITE #43306 long brake adapter
3/8-24 male to 3/16 female tube. $1.29
Screw Clamps - HELP #03338 Wire Stop 3/32 wire diameter.
$1.00
Springs - compression springs in various length and spring rate.
Need to be about 2" long and 3/4" or less in diameter.
$.99 - $1.99. Still trying different ones.
TAP - 3/8-24 tap. Not sure the price since I owned one already.
Drill Bits - 21/64 for tap hole.
3/16 for hole through body tub.
1/8 for hole through fork for cable.
Bracket - To mount t-handle under dash. Still not done with this,
but the HELP parts area in PEP Boys has some I will try.

All these numbers and prices are from PEP Boys in AZ.

Jeremy

Awesome! Thanks a million for the writeup and part #'s. Looks like I have something to do this weekend. Bring on the spool! :D

Man, I owe you a :beer: for that little tip

Glad I could help.

Jeremy

Thought you might find this interesting...

I picked up some of the parts I needed today. Instead of the T-Handle part# 55203 I got a small rounded style part# 55103 which has an integrated adjustment and can even be installed in the dash if I feel so inclined. This knocks that brake line adjustment deal off I think. I will let you know how it turns out. The cable is only 5 feet though, so I may have a little problem there. Perhaps mount it on the passenger side.

Also, is the spring totally necessary, or can I just get a lighter spring and then push the collar back in place? I just remembered that the cable I bought doesn't have an actual lock to it like the t-handle and thus will spring back if I put a spring on it. A slip on collar would work to hold in place now that I think about it...Hmmm...

Solve on problem..create another!

The reason I used the brake part wasn't originally for adjustment, it was for a cleaner look, but it just so happened it made a great adjuster as well, so it looked better and could perform a function if needed. As for the spring, you will need something to push the collar back. If you put a screw clamp on both sides of the fork it might work without a spring, but the front screw clamp might slide a little on the cable if too much force is applied (this is why I bent the cable behind the screw clamp behind the fork so the clamp will not move when I was pulling on the handle.) Maybe you could put a small bend in the cable in front of the fork to keep the clamp from sliding. If you use a spring it just needs to be long enough/strong enough to slide the fork back. Also my 6 ft cable has plenty of extra, so a 5 ft cable might not be a problem. I will be putting a 2 in body lift on soon so having the extra cable will be good.
Jeremy

I wouldn't mount it in the dash, unless you can reinforce it somehow. I ended up with three extra holes in mine before I gave up and mounted it to the tranny hump with an L bracket. I'd say the spring is necessary, thats what I used on mine. Also, I cut off the vacuum "bulb" on the end of the disco motor because the ports kept clogging up with mud and rendered the manual disco useless.

So Chad, you did the same thing then, eh? I don't suppose either one of you has pictures of how it turned out do you? I think I follow you, but I am a visual person.

Nope, no pics but you're welcome to come down and take a look at it if you want.

Cool, where abouts in Puyallup are you? I was going to do a little fab work on my XJ this weekend and maybe I will stop by and take a look if you don't mind. I've seen your XJ around a few times and I've always wanted to see how it was setup :D PM me. I'm over in Federal Way somewhat by Sears and the DMV.

You guys have actually welded the spider gears on the Dana30 and had it last ? I was going to do it for a buddy's XJ but i was told not too cause they f'n grenade right away. I was told the it's cause of the housing..

Maybe I should weld it then..

my friend has a lockrite in his D30 that doesn't unlock, so it's basically spooled. He has the vacuum line running in the cab so he disconnects the passenger side whenever he needs to make tight turns. He's on 35s also. So far no problems, at least as a result of that.

I've been running a welded Dana 30 front for almost a year now. I have 260 joints and 33's. I've run stagecoach (monteagle), lower 2 (tellico) several times, and a # of other difficult trails w/ a V-8 and no hesitation to hit the skinny pedal. I have never broke anything in the front axle.

weld it

does anyone have any pics of this setup yet? or any updates about toget the parts.

A good tip for the vac. ports would be to run 2 lenghts of hose up to the top of the firewall.. I was thinking about bypassing the disconnect myself.. I would love to see photos as well!

If you need longer cable, go to a bike store and get some tandem bike shifter cable, that's what I have on mine and I had to cut it way down. Easier than the t-handle, is just a normal bicycle shifter. I clamped it to my t-case lever with enough slack to not let it pull the cable when in 4-Lo.

http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm

Good writeup.

Or go to a custom cable shop that makes cables for stuff like speedometers, tachs, etc. and have a coated cable made. The outside is metal for durability, but the inside is coated (teflon?) and the lever pull is effortless. A friend had some cables made like this. I'm not exactly sure where but I will try to find out.

I've found that RC car suspension springs work really well as a shift fork return spring. They can be had in all kinds of lengths and spring rates too.

What about on a non vacum disconnect 96 model, how would this work I believe I have the larger 297 joints and I am running 33's

What about on a non vacum disconnect 96 model, how would this work I believe I have the larger 297 joints and I am running 33's

If you have no vacuum disconnect you have no option, your axle is one solid peice (on the long side) instead of 2 separate that are locked with a sliding collar.

I just left the canister actuated by vacuum and installed a vacuum switch in the cab.

I'd say it's not much easier to do it this way, but I had most the stuff to do it and wanted it done by the weekend. I just wanted it for the use of 2-low, my dana 30 is still open. Let me tell you, 2-lo kicks ass, especially with my gutless 2.8 v6.

Not very exciting, but here are a few pics of the valve and stuff;

http://home.centurytel.net/jstandle/Jeep/vswitch_1.JPG
http://home.centurytel.net/jstandle/Jeep/vswitch_2.JPG
http://home.centurytel.net/jstandle/Jeep/vswitch_3.JPG

Jordan