Did a search and couldn't come up with anything. I'm thinking of upgrading the front axle of my TJ to a 9". So, besides "as much as someone is willing to pay", what's my bone stock 2001 D30 with 16K miles worth?

Thanks for the help,
DV

Very little. Maybe $300.

If you can find someone that even wants it I would say $50 or so. Maybe someone with an older jeep thats not really wanting to ever upgrade to a stronger axle but wants disc brakes or something.

oh please, some idiot with a stock wrangler who knows nothing about jeeps would pay $300 when he breaks his in a ditch or something. try and sell it on ebay, see what it goes for.

Consider a call to Currie - they may want the brackets as a core. Other than that... Ebay and take what you can get.

Paul

i sold my dana30 out of my 82 CJ-7 for $200. surely you can get $300 for it

Originally posted by rpenner54
If you can find someone that even wants it I would say $50 or so. Maybe someone with an older jeep thats not really wanting to ever upgrade to a stronger axle but wants disc brakes or something.

keep in mind someone with an "older jeep" would most likely be a CJ and those have passenger side drops, TJs have driver side

Originally posted by thenodnarb
oh please, some idiot with a stock wrangler who knows nothing about jeeps would pay $300 when he breaks his in a ditch or something. try and sell it on ebay, see what it goes for.
Hey bondo,
why dont you buy it to replace the closed knuckle 44 :fliposs2: :D Just messin man, maybe I'll see ya at school on tuesday, I'll be in my dads gray yj with 31's... man what a downgrade from 35's.. :(
Scott :grinpimp:<><

Originally posted by rpenner54
If you can find someone that even wants it I would say $50 or so. Maybe someone with an older jeep thats not really wanting to ever upgrade to a stronger axle but wants disc brakes or something.

Gimme a break...I don't think 30's are THAT bad. 35's maybe :D

Besides, replacing just the left and right axle assemblies will cost almost $300 on their own. Plus with only 16K on it the brake rotors and pads will be perfect, you have good wheel bearing assemblies (Which are about $110 a piece to replace), you have the piece of mind of knowing that you have a spare housing in case you do something crazy and bend yours, and you'd have all the brackets you could probably sell if you didn't care about ripping up the housing. I'd pay $300 for that 30 for a backup. I want to buy spare axle assemblies eventually, but I'd be better off to buy this guys 30.

$50? Good grief :rolleyes::flipoff2:

Dana 30's are about as usless as a 90 year old tit! Ebay it. :D

Originally posted by Rockbuggy
Dana 30's are about as usless as a 90 year old tit!

Thanks for the visual :barf::flipoff2:

Gag me with a tit:barf:

I might be interested in the Dana 30. I am assuming that it is the same as the 2000.

PM me. I need spare parts - axles, bearings, etc., just in case.:smokin:

Think about all you can core off this:

1. Hubs (spendy)
2. Discs
3. Calipers
4. Knuckles (limited market)
5. Shafts (you got the 5-297x´s)
6. Gears (including carrier parts)
7. Brackets

Not to drive the price up, but there's alot to a whole assembly. Then again, it's not RC. Otherwise, I'd have my candygrabbers on that thing.

Bob

$300 whole. You could probably part it out for more if you feel like going to all that trouble.

:usa:

First off, thank's to all on the above info.

Originally posted by Trango
Then again, it's not RC.
Bob

Sorry Bob, but I don't fallow: RC?

I'm still in the midst. of doing my homework on the most "cost effective" way to safely run 36's without having to "baby" the loud pedal. From what I gather, modern D30's, D44's & 9"'s all share the same u-joints. That said, if I'm not mistaken, my next concern would be (in order of fragility....is that a word?) the hubs, the axles, next the housing, and then the R&P.

I found a guy today that had pic's of a D30 truss he had made on his web site. I still thinken though that by the time I upgrade the hubs & U-joints, & axles, I'll be 3/4 of the way to having a D44 or 9" built...........man I wish I had more experience with this kind of thing.

O'well. In the event I deside to sell this (D30) thing, if anyone has interest in it, let me know, I'll keep a list and contact you when the time comes.

Thanks,
DV

DV,

I'll buy it right now for 300 complete.

I could use it as a spare axle assemblys till then.
Spare diff till then.
spare brakes till then
spare wheel bearing assemblys till then.

Heck I know I could beat on that stock SOB till at least 2003.

With the one I have now and another one. I would be set for a while.

SERIOUSLY I Want it for $300.00

Oh yea, If you build a 9" What are you gaining other than a bigger ring and pinion and steeper gear choices?

If you build a 44 what are you gaining other than a bigger ring and pinion and steeper gear choices?

The weakest part of a TJ dana 30 is the U joints... 297X
Sound familiar... Same in a 44 same in a 9.....

Just lock that puppy up, carry spare u Joints and buy a 30.00 u joint press. carry it too.
Just get a lockright, re-gear and your set for awhile. Blow it up a few times, Then say... To heck with a 9 or 44... I am going 60!

I sold mine for $150 out of an 87 Yj and that was with 456 gears and a lockright locker, It had new brakes also. Then the guy I sold it to wanted his money back when he found out it wasnt as strong as he wanted it to be what a dumb ass I told him to fuck off so he tried to sew me over a Dana 30!! oh well I won cause he a dumb ass:D

Originally posted by Jeepmangled87
oh well I won cause he a dumb ass:D

LOL. There definitely should be "you can't sue cause your a dumb ass" law in the US :D

DV

I'll take it for $300...

humm, more spare outers and hub assemblies.

hell yea!

Originally posted by DV
RC?



Reverse Cut. You can take the reverse cut D30 out of a late model XJ and it'll bolt up to a TJ. I considered doing this, but ultimately decided against it because, in the front, reverse cut gears are at the weakest when you are going in reverse - when it's more likely that there is more stress on the front axle. I decided this was important with my 4.88's in my D30. I gave up an inch or two of clearance and better driveline angles (not a big issue with the front axle on a TJ).

Later,
Brian

With all do respect to all the "fine $300" offers, I've yet to set a price on this front axle should I decide to get rid of it. Keeping in mind that for every extra dollar I get for this axle, is an extra dollar I can put towards my new "very expensive" custom made axle. That said, for those who have an interest in this 2001 axle with only 17K miles on it, my decision could posibly be expedited by an offer a wee bit more sizable than $300.

So, if you think you have an offer that could "persuade" me to push ahead my plans to order a bigger axle, drop me a line and we'll talk about it.

Thank you very kindly for your consideration,
DV

No offense DV, but you probably won't get much persuasion from this crowd. You can buy those things in a boneyard all day for the same price or less. Plus you at least get the RC one that way. I paid $200 for mine complete...lots of spares :D Sorry man, but if you want some more dough for it you will more than likely need to list it in the classifieds locally and find some poor sap who doesn't know what they are doing.

Chease, that has to be the oddest theory on a rev cut axle I've ever heard. I, and I'd assume most of us, wheel to go over obstacles fwd! I rarely have any intentions of backing off obstacles, and when I unfortunately have to sometimes it is usually easier getting off of them, especially when gravity is in your favor for once...

Push it hard; forward! Thats where you want the strength (rev cut up front std cut out back)!

Originally posted by 1badjeep

Hey bondo,
why dont you buy it to replace the closed knuckle 44 :fliposs2: :D Just messin man, maybe I'll see ya at school on tuesday, I'll be in my dads gray yj with 31's... man what a downgrade from 35's.. :(
Scott :grinpimp:<><
scott, must you talk to me personally in EVERY post. by the way, I'll closed knuckle your MOM if you don't shut up about my damn axle. IM going 60 outers anyway when I get the engine and tranny all done.

Originally posted by thenodnarb

scott, must you talk to me personally in EVERY post. by the way, I'll closed knuckle your MOM if you don't shut up about my damn axle. IM going 60 outers anyway when I get the engine and tranny all done.

LOL! "Closed knuckle 1BadJeeps fawkin mom!!" LOL, Shit, Been there done that. :D

Originally posted by P&T jeeps
Chease, that has to be the oddest theory on a rev cut axle I've ever heard. I, and I'd assume most of us, wheel to go over obstacles fwd! I rarely have any intentions of backing off obstacles, and when I unfortunately have to sometimes it is usually easier getting off of them, especially when gravity is in your favor for once...

Push it hard; forward! Thats where you want the strength (rev cut up front std cut out back)!

I usually like to go forward up obstacles too. But consider this scenario:

You enter into a mud hole/water crossing. You just lost foward progress because of a stump/log/rock/whatever submerged underwater that caught a rear tire, so you decide to back out. You've got the wheel cranked to one side, and you are giving it a little stupid foot to get one of the front tires over the submerged whatever.

Something like the above would be a drawback of the RC in the front, but it isn't a huge issue because most of the time, we aren't running obstacles in reverse. Hope that makes a little more sense now. Just some food for thought.

Later,
Brian

:usa:

Originally posted by thenodnarb

scott, must you talk to me personally in EVERY post. by the way, I'll closed knuckle your MOM if you don't shut up about my damn axle. IM going 60 outers anyway when I get the engine and tranny all done.
WOW.. all the sudden we turn into Mr. Tough Guy eh? Just because I razz you about a damn axle.. get over it dude.. you made a mistake, and I don't give a flyin crap if you are going 60 outers anyway.... Besides, do you even know what a D60 outer is? :flipoff2::flipoff2:
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.DUDE, LIGHTEN UP.. Its a JOKE BONDO... Take a chill pill, and don't let your moms panties get in a bunch again (like last night)
Scott:grinpimp:

Chease....

I'm afraid your logic is flawed. The Rc gears are FAR superior in the front...that's why ford had Spicer invent the damn things in the first place.

You enter into a mud hole/water crossing. You just lost foward progress because of a stump/log/rock/whatever submerged underwater that caught a rear tire, so you decide to back out. You've got the wheel cranked to one side, and you are giving it a little stupid foot to get one of the front tires over the submerged whatever.

In this scenario, especially with the wheel turned, you're going to break the U-joint WAY before the RC gears.

And if you think driveline angle is not a major concern, you either have very little lift, very little flex, or simply don't do any rocks.

I don't think your going to get much over 300 for a stock d-30 either. I bought a complete yj d-30 with 4.56 gears and a detroit locker for that price. Good luck if you want more than that.
:flipoff2:

Belive it or not I sold my D30 from my 99 TJ for $1,100. It had less than 1,000 miles on it when I sold it. I posted it on many boards, and it took about two months to sell. (Try JU) The guy that bought it was rebuilding a wreck, and wanted a stock setup. I also sold my stock ax-15 for $1000 and my 231 for $950. There are always people out there looking for stock parts, because they don't want to deal with the dealers or BUILD a Jeep. It might take you a while, but you can sell it...

Damn you BillaV... you beat me too it. Not to say that it hasn't happened, but I've never seen a R&P break in the mud? Better have alot of horses.

I also think it's the no rocks scenario...:skull:

Originally posted by BillaVista
Chease....

I'm afraid your logic is flawed. The Rc gears are FAR superior in the front...that's why ford had Spicer invent the damn things in the first place.



In this scenario, especially with the wheel turned, you're going to break the U-joint WAY before the RC gears.

And if you think driveline angle is not a major concern, you either have very little lift, very little flex, or simply don't do any rocks.


All I was doing is throwing out a scenario. I've got 4.88's in my D30, so the strength issue is a concern for me. I never said that the breakage here is likely, but it's a possibilty. No more, no less, so relax :)

My front driveline angle isn't a huge concern for me, even with 6" lift on my TJ. And in answer to your statements, the Jeep flexs pretty nicely, and there are some rocks here in the Midwest if you look for them. Although nothing like out West :(

:usa: