MON 11/26 – Designing Steel - Daily Topic

[jdjanda]

Let’s see your designs for bumpers, tire carriers, sliders, and cages. Do you need DOM?

Here's some of the steel I've fabbed:

Rear body mounts, tail gate mounted Jerry Can mounts, front bumper w/winch, and rock sliders.

The rock sliders need to be redone, they are not holding up very well. I'm going to remake them with ¼” material square tube, with an extra set of bars further out to keep the body out of the rocks. I still need a good rear bumper design, with frame tie-ins along the side, and enough room to mount a tire carrier. Oh and a cage design, one with the front down tubes tucked in tight along the window frame, that enters behind the dash.

Here is a link to ACAD drawings of the front bumpers
http://www.geocities.com/jd_janda/draw

Here is a picture of the rear Jerry Can mounts

[Snoopy]

Originally posted by jdjanda
...Do you need DOM?



No, you don't need DOM. DOM will easily double the cost of your cage.

We've used HREW 2" tube on virtually all our cages. The key is to have the seam on the inside of the bend (to prevent splitting). Just make sure you get structural steel tube & make sure your bender doesn't crush the tube when it bends it. IF your budget won't afford anything a madrel bender, make sure that you use gussets in the crushed areas to give it added support.

Also, check your cage design and make room for some additional runners to give added support - kinda like this:http://www.dandcextreme.com/sc1.jpg

I've seen cages built out of DOM and one without it. Sure DOM is the best answer but it isn't *needed*. As long as your cage design and building style doesn't weaken the tube ~ you should be fine.

FYI - Snoopy's cage isn't DOM, but you'll notice that I've tied the spreaders into the main hoops, put a bar across the dash, and used angles in the CB-bars to bring in some side-to-side support as well as give additional support to the front "windshield" bar and the corresponding rear bar. This is before the seat bases, door bars, rear section, and frame extensions.

http://www.dandcextreme.com/cage3.jpg

[tsm1mt]

Originally posted by Snoopy

No, you don't need DOM. DOM will easily double the cost of your cage.

I've seen cages built out of DOM and one without it. Sure DOM is the best answer but it isn't *needed*. As long as your cage design and building style doesn't weaken the tube ~ you should be fine.


Yeah, but if 1010 HREW is good, 1020 DOM is twice as good.

Look at the various posts OldScout's made with his chart of 1010 vs 1018 vs 1020.. or open up your Machinery Handbook (*finally* got one last week).

1020 DOM is roughly 2x as stong as 1010.

Now that I've finally found a supplier that won't charge me an arm n' a leg.. I think I'm going to use the 1020 DOM at least on my race truck (where I've come to expect disaster), and probably use it on my trail rig, too.

I can get the HREW for $1.67/ft, or DOM for $2.55/ft..

[tsm1mt]

Here's the only thing I can really show..

My "tow-bar" bumper for bringing home new Scouts. :D

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/faq/jpg/tow_bumper/tow_bumper.jpg

My first welding project, too.

Two hunks of 3x2x1/4 angle welded together to make a 3x5x2 C-channel.

drilled for the bumper bolts, top was notched after this pic on the ends to clear the lower valence - I used cutting rod in the stick welder for that. :D

The tabs on the ends are 3/8" angle, the C-channel in the middle has a couple installed and is used JUST for moving "empty" frames around - specifically my race truck back when it was an empty tub with a rear axle in it.. I had to move it from the back yard to the front of the garage.

I guess I've also fabbed up some over-built shock "towers" from 1.5x1.5 x 3/16" box tubing uprights and used 4" x 1/4" plate to connect the tops together. :)

[sdscouter]

Here are a couple of pictures:
http://www.phantomworks.com/binderbunch/Member_s/Curt_Cleavinger/curt_cleavinger.html

they show my rock sliders. I cut out the outer rockers, and welded in 3.5"x3.5"x.25" square steel to the inner rocker (if I were doing it again, I'd remove the inner rocker too). The ends are welded shut, so they serve as air tanks for the on-board air. I've landed hard on them a couple of times, and they haven't dented a bit.

Later,
Curt

[NotQuiteSane]

these are my mods to the d&c tire carrier. the first one is just 2 tabs to mount the high lift to. nylock nuts keep it in place.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~josad/images/bumper4.jpg

The second is the gas can holder/lisence plate mount. there is a turn knob it uses to clamp the parts together.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~josad/images/bumper1.jpg

When I get my design up for the 800 cage, i'll post it.

[RustoleumWhite]

oh...... just a little bit of what I have just stuck together this last weekend.......

[tsm1mt]

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
oh...... just a little bit of what I have just stuck together this last weekend.......

Go Mark!

What springs are those? Nice, smooth, shaved shock mounts.. you'll be adding some back tho', right? :)

Dang, if Patrick AND you both get your front axle swaps done before me.. I'll.. I'll.. shucks, I dunno. :D

[Ben W]

Nice work Mark!

[RustoleumWhite]

Thanks Ben :D


Springs are 2wd 1/2 IH p/u 2.5" wide, 46" eye-eye. Frame extended 3".

Yes, new shock towers and bump-stop brackets are to be built, and brakelines will be changed/modified/redone.


Thinking of trying different springs, looking at the 44044's, more arc, little more lift, more droop :D better shackle angle.

Got some issues with the arms to work out. Prototype design, and we need to work on them to get the perfect.


and Tommy, I'm alot more done than you are :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

[oldjeep]

Couple of racks I built.

http://www.oldjeep.com/images/TireRack/BobsCompleteRack.jpg
http://www.oldjeep.com/images/TireRack/BobsBumper.jpg http://www.oldjeep.com/images/TireRack/RackOpen.jpg