OK all you metal work guru's.

How bout some tips and tricks for body work. I'm going to start taking wrinkles out this winter. SSS has the SSII decals now, so I want to be ready to slap a new set on this spring.

I am actually considering buying some large magnetic sheets, and applying the stickers to that. Then I can remove the magnetic decals when I am playing in the ugly stuff so I don't destroy them. Good idea???

So, an old codger friend of mine, told me that back in the olden days, before bondo came along, they used to selectively heat and cool areas of sheet metal to take out dents and wrinkles without drilling holes and without using bondo. Anyone familiar with this technique?

Once I get the dents out, I will move on to painting tips and tricks, but that will be a few months.

I used to wheel with a guy whose motto on this subject was "pound to shape, paint to match" - very wise advice. If you plan to wheel your truck, don't try to make it look nice - it'll just hurt more when it gets mangled on the trail. Just get a hammer and dolly and spend a few hours pounding out the worst of the dents. Skip the bodo. Then give it a quick coat of paint so it'll pass for the same color from 20 (or 40) feet away - nothing too glossy, or it'll show the dents more. Then go wheel and don't worry about it.

Later,
Curt

I used to apprentice as a bodyman and the heat/cool does work. Just make sure you dont put a hole in the metal. If you wheel it dont use much bondo if at all. IT WILL CRACK. I have to agree with flat paint. And the lighter colors show the least of the wrinkles.

magnets :eek: No way dude!!! I make those magnetic doohickeys and they would look really tacky as "legit" decals (or however you would phrase that) They are pretty thick and look (once again) tacky when veiwed at an angle on the vehicle. Either go with just the decals and have them scratch off, or put on your base-coat of paint, then put the decals on and then apply the clear-coat for added protection. Orrrr.....replicate the "origional" decals with paint itself, this way if it gets scratched you can just "touch it up".

On the body work, without MUCH experience the "HEAT and COOL" method is pretty difficult. I would get behind the panel(s) in question and try to push the dent back out. then apply minimal bondo.

GOOD LUCK

Also I agree with the "dull" paint effect. I went out and bought some "one coat" paint (IE: not base/clear) anyway I've heard that this gives off less of a shine than a base/clear set-up. Plus I picked a med/light metallic grey. This should be light enough to cover up most of the small stuff (CROSSING FINGERS)

I have yet to apply the paint so I can't tell you how well my PLAN worked

No you got it all wrong, if you rub some paint off on a rock, tree, farm animal, what ever. If you put it in reverse it should put the paint back on and take the dent out. That's what happens in all my videos. :D

Hoop just wheel it, then when your ready to buy another for fun, swap tubs and wheel the other one. Who knows maybe the Hooper Scout will be worth some money to the Burt Reynolds estate.

The Heat and Cool method works great if you know what you are doing, but if you don't know what your doing you can cause more damage. Sometimes you can't get behind the dents to bang them out, go get a nail gun and you can pull them out easily and a light coat of filler and your in business, fiberglass fillers are stronger, and high quality light weight fillers flex alot unless they are thight. Bondo brand filler cracks easy. And yes dull colors hide more and Single stage is a little duller than BC/CC but not much, you can get a flattener aditive ad it to you paint and you can make it even duller.

Originally posted by Hooper
OK all you metal work guru's.

How bout some tips and tricks for body work. ....

Don't you know. Chicks dig body damage.:p ;)

Why???

(it's all in my sig)

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
Also I agree with the "dull" paint effect.

See, Hooper. I was on to something with the flat-black spray-bomb job.. but you meanies in Seattle just labeled me "Ugliest Truck" anyhow..

I guess flat paint doesn't hide the wrinkles *THAT* well..

You might want to contact Sunchaser tools. They make a friction disk that fits on a 9" grinder. I've been told it works great as only the high spots are heated by friction.

Sunchaser Tools
3202 E. Foothill Blvd.
Pasadena, CA 91107
626-795-1588 (Voice)
626-795-6494 (Fax)

If you get one, let me know how it worked for you.

Originally posted by Curtis
Why???

(it's all in my sig)

Because I use my truck for more than just beating it against rocks right now. And, when I get another rig that will be dedicated to beating on rocks, this one will get the resto and be a nice show piece. Hopefully, sometime next year I will pick up a trail rig to really build up.

Originally posted by Hooper


Because I use my truck for more than just beating it against rocks right now. And, when I get another rig that will be dedicated to beating on rocks, this one will get the resto and be a nice show piece. Hopefully, sometime next year I will pick up a trail rig to really build up.

hehe. Okay that makes sense. (I was just razzing you)

Originally posted by Curtis


hehe. Okay that makes sense. (I was just razzing you)

I know. :D

I wouldn't bother if I did not think it had some restoration value. I cannot see restoring a scout II. But an SSII, and one with a histrory like mine, seems like it might be worth restoring some day. Course, I have to be rich before I can do all that, but.... someday :)