Can the original front axels in CVs handle 35 inch tires ?


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The rear axel is equipped with Maxidrive axels and locker, the front is equipped with ARB locker.

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Another question - what ratio do you recommend - 4.10 or 4.7, considering that the vehicle travels large distances on the road each day.

Thanks,

Erez

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err, no and 4.1.

nice dogs!

well more correctly the CVs will be fine until you do some moderate to hard offroading then they will break and the gearing choice depends on your original tyre size and transfer case ratio but it's a safe bet that 4.7 will be a reduction from what you had before.

ct

I have 35.5" on a Td5 110 will all stock driveline. It hasn't given up yet, but I have placed an order for a full front-and-rear Maxi Drive combo including CV-upgrades. I think/hope it will stand up to two weeks of Sweden Offroad Tour with open diffs and gentle driving, since I will not be able to install the MD-stuff before, but it's probably pushing it. I would not lock the front on 35's with stock CV's.

I will stay 3.54 and consider an underdrive, since it's also a daily driver with legal/stock wheel dimensions, and it will need to pass periodic government inspections (our MoT equvalent) with stock wheels and correct speedo.

Edit: Gearing and power in high box is just right with larger wheels and tuned Td5. Allard intercooler, custom chip and a few other tweaks like removed muffler and viscous fan. Flow prepping the turbo is in the works.

Gearing in lo box is a little tall, and you need to use the throttle on steep inclines. If I can get the turbo to kick in a little earlier this may be alleviated. Second low and 3/4 throttle in deep mud is perfect with the big wheels and stock ratios.

Long term, I'm looking for underdrive or crawler gears, but will not touch the diff ratios.

What engine do you have?

Sort of depends on the ground and on the tyre. If it's a 35" bfg AT and it's used in the mud then your safe as the grip would not be enough to break them. If it's a Simex, then all bets are off.

I'll assume your going for a grippy tyre - I got nearly a full year out of a D90 with Stock front axle with 35" tyres until I broke a 1/2 shaft. CV's never broke funny enough. (and they were the newer lighter ones).

FWIW I ran 35's on my '90 RRC with the stock 10-spline front end for a few trips to Moab. As long as your gentle and don't touch the locker they will last at least a few trips. By the time I pulled the stock stuff out I had rolled the splines pretty badly. But they didn't break.

What year 110?. The older ones have larger, better CVs but crappy diffs. With these, you need to (at least) get a 24 spline diff and strengthened inner shafts. Hopefully this was done with the ARB as getting a 10 spline ARB would be a bad choice.

The newer ones (>1991 or so) will need the older CVs as well.

The older CVs still break, but if you are carefull they will last a while. Try and avoid power with the wheels turned and especially when locked. All CVs are weakest with the wheels turned.

On the gearing, first see if you are happy with high range or not. If you are OK with high range, I would do the MD low range gear set. If not, then the 4.1s. Remember that the lower the R&P ratio, the weaker they get.

Take those older size 110 CV's (or any for that matter) and grind a small radius around the ball openings both inside and out on the cage make sure it's nice and smooth, this will actually add surface area to the cage which is from what i've read what breaks in these CV's... The ball only rides in the middle.
Once this is done it would seem that if you take them down to the local heat treat shop and put them in the oven for about 3 hours at 560 degrees you can bring the rockwell down from glass hard 65 on the C scale to a more reasonable 55C... Seems like that would do a lot to improve longevity of these things without spending big bucks... Of course you would need a 24X23 spline axle to drive it and teh appropriate Adaptors to make it fit the hub...
Nice Doggie....
Troy you there?

a few things:
- they idea is to allways keep the 35 on (i dont want to change the tyres on work days)
-except for front and rear maxi (+cv joint on the front axel), what do u recommend to put on insted of the original axels (the d110 im refering to are between the years 97-95).
-what ratio of the ring and pinion do u recommen for a d110 that make 50K a year (5K of them offroad) with 35
p.s'
I know im better of with 2 sets of tyres or one set of porche 911 :D
http://imgsrv.pic4u.co.il/b55fb08b4896b2ae714fdfa0bec60680020000.aspx

Well, I'm running the stock gears on my D110 with the 300 Tdi and it pulls well at highway speeds. I have put in the upgraded Allard intercooler and turbo as well as turned up the fueling a little bit. With this set-up, I can cruise all day long at 75 mph and top out at around 85.

This is with 5" of lift and 35" BFG ATs.

I have arbs front and rear and I would recommend going to at least the early style 110 CVs on the front if you're using a locker. the MD stuff should hold up well for you both on the highway and off-road.

As an example, I have run a supercharged 3.9 in my D90 with the MD rear axles and an ARB for 3 years and haven't broken one yet. I've killed 2 R&P sets, but the axles are great!

I'm still working on the fronts, but until the newest GBR CVs are proven, the old style D110 CVs seem to be the strongest thing out there.

-john

I've seen several sets of 4.7 stripped of recent... I'd stick to 4:11's

Even the 4.7s of a Salisbury??? The only reason I am going for a rear Salisbury is for the R&P...as everyone has broken a rear 4.7 on a Rover, even the "fancy" GBR 4.75s...

HAS ANYONE BROKEN A REAR 4.7 ON A SALISBURY???