What kind of experience have you had with fuel injection on your scouts. what kind of problems and what pluses have been realized by you?

This has been discussed multiple times over on the BB. More than likely here as well. There are a few out there putting together junk yard FI sytems as well.

When I wanted opinions of the fine folks on The BB I ask questions on The BB. I did not think that they could give me accurite and up to date information on the experience of The POR members.
Please forgive me for asking your opinion and experiences with this set up as you apperently have none.Just a reference to The BB.
Also thank you for the pick and pull junk yard dog suggestion......if I had known that wrecking yards had parts I might have tried that route
(THIS JUST IN.....I used to work at a wrecking yard (automotive dismantling facility) and also as a used parts locator for an internet parts supplier) If I were interested in doing the junk yard dog version I would have inquired about part #s and applications to put together a system.
I was just hoping to get some insight from a group of people I have some respect for.
I am not looking for specific tech help (yet) or someone to hold
my hand through the install........just some impressouns of the HOLLEY KIT.
Thankyou.
(thats twice I've had to climb up on that damn soap box in two days.)

Wash the sand out of your crotch.

Originally posted by Janoso
What kind of experience have you had with fuel injection on your scouts. what kind of problems and what pluses have been realized by you?

It didn't fawking work. I threw it in the corner of the shop, put the carb back on, and haven't touched the fawkin' thing for 3 years.

Is that what you were looking for? :flipoff2:

Oh.. Analog 2bbl Projection.

I love my projection, but I did shitcan the heavy ass IH boat anchor for a chev motor:D I run a 2DI with the closed loop kit. Most the problems I have seen with this set up are opperator error and just plain fucking with it too much, get it set and leave the fuck alone and you should be fine. I have been vary happy with mine.

Try This (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=685704&sortby=lastpost&sortorder=descending).
:rolleyes:

Originally posted by Janoso
(thats twice I've had to climb up on that damn soap box in two days.)

Don't climb too high..:rolleyes:

The least you could do is not insult the guys you're asking for help from. That's called courtesy... :flipoff2:

The newer DI kits are better. I ran the old analog systems and never had any trouble. Great for off-road. The people that can't make them work right don't know volts from amps and/or don't understand how an engine works. Present company excluded of course. :D

Originally posted by Sully
Wash the sand out of your crotch.

I did, but I forgot about the starch in my fruit of the looms !!!!!!
Sorry if I came off too Biochy.

Originally posted by tsm1mt


It didn't fawking work. I threw it in the corner of the shop, put the carb back on, and haven't touched the fawkin' thing for 3 years.

Is that what you were looking for? :flipoff2:

Oh.. Analog 2bbl Projection.

Well.......it is information and it even includes the model of the FI (analog 2 bbl )
It all helps
Thanks

Originally posted by Chas76SII


Don't climb too high..:rolleyes:

The least you could do is not insult the guys you're asking for help from. That's called courtesy... :flipoff2:

I did not realize that i insulted the people I was asking for help.......I just wanted to insult the person who responded without attempting to help (at least he didn't include a link to the BB)

I'm more of a "Junkyard FI" guy since both my scouts run 345's with the GM 350 TBI.
But I have set up 2 of the analog Holley systems. My opinion is.... they will work...but.
They seem to be sensitive to voltage drops so run your power through relays.
The injectors do not seem to be as consistant as the GM's. I run GM injectors in one of the holley TB's for a little better breathing.
They are basically a bolt-in swap.

I would recommend closed loop for any system you use.
With the software tuning ability I would also recommend the new 2DI over the old analog system.

You can run any of them on a 2 barrel or 4 barrel manifold.
for 4 wheeling the 2 barrel works just fine.

HTH
Bill
usn-1

Originally posted by Hammerlock
The newer DI kits are better. I ran the old analog systems and never had any trouble. Great for off-road. The people that can't make them work right don't know volts from amps and/or don't understand how an engine works. Present company excluded of course. :D

I didn't know we were supposed to take our scouts "off road" just to the mall.
volts? aint that what a german guy screws his nuts onto.
Well yes of course present company excluded...thier units were defective or "sumtin"
Thanks for the info

Originally posted by Bill usn-1
I'm more of a "Junkyard FI" guy since both my scouts run 345's with the GM 350 TBI.
But I have set up 2 of the analog Holley systems. My opinion is.... they will work...but.
They seem to be sensitive to voltage drops so run your power through relays.
The injectors do not seem to be as consistant as the GM's. I run GM injectors in one of the holley TB's for a little better breathing.
They are basically a bolt-in swap.

I would recommend closed loop for any system you use.
With the software tuning ability I would also recommend the new 2DI over the old analog system.

You can run any of them on a 2 barrel or 4 barrel manifold.
for 4 wheeling the 2 barrel works just fine.

HTH
Bill
usn-1

Bill,
Thank you for all the info. No disrespect meant for the do it yourselfer putting together used parts from a wrecking yard (as I said earlier it used to be my bread and butter) plus it is more enviromentally sound and a system is of course customized to
the application.

Relay's for what? These don't draw that much juice. Sounds like you have some other electrical issue.

Scoutillac,
thanks for the input. If I get it I'll try not to "fix it till it's broken"

Mochamike,
Try decaff !
just kidding. I was hopping to start some new threads not just look up the history of the discussions.
(remember.........it's all about me !)

To all who responded posatively negatively or however..........

THANKS
:D :D :D

That was my point.
one of the scouts I put the holley analog system on had a dragging starter. It would work everytime so the owner did not want to replace it till it died.
Voltage drop during cranking was down to ~9v. would not fire an injector.
So I ran a 30 amp aux lighting relay for the power.

We all know how great the original scout wiring is!!!!!!!!!
So...since I have no idea what shape the scout someone on here owns, it is my recommendation to use a power relay for the computer.

Why do people use relays on thier headlights or driving lights or electric fans.

A fan will run till the battery dies but the computer wont.

Just my .02
No one has to use it.

Bill
usn-1

Roger.

Instead of the relay why not just run heavier wire to the fuse box? Mount the 'puter inside the cab.

BTW: The reason people run relays for electric fans is because they pull serious amps. A lot of people install a relay for their headlights when what they really need to fix is the ground.

Originally posted by Hammerlock
Roger.

Instead of the relay why not just run heavier wire to the fuse box? Mount the 'puter inside the cab.

BTW: The reason people run relays for electric fans is because they pull serious amps. A lot of people install a relay for their headlights when what they really need to fix is the ground.

What does the kind of ground I drive on have to do with my
weak a$$ headlights ? I'm not going to repave the road to the mall just so my headlights work better!!!!!!

Originally posted by Janoso


What does the kind of ground I drive on have to do with my
weak a$$ headlights ? I'm not going to repave the road to the mall just so my headlights work better!!!!!!

I hope your kidding about the ground...:confused:

Are you POSATIVE about the ground issue?
NEGATIVE he replied !!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the your suggestion Hammerlock.
next time I convert a guys scout with a dragging starter I will take the computer out of the glove box and mount it closer the fuse box and use larger diameter wire instead of a relay and see if it cures the problem.
But then the injectors will be farther away from the computer so I will have to rewire the harness for larger wires to the injectors.....

I think I will just make him buy a starter and go back to the power relay. then when the electric fan and moose horn turn on it won't kill the computer.


:) :) :)

Bill
usn-1

Originally posted by Janoso
Are you POSATIVE about the ground issue?
NEGATIVE he replied !!!!!!!!!!

keep clowning around like this and you won't get any help. First your an ass to someone offering help, then your a jester.


As for the BB sugestion, you have issues?? Most recent and up-to-date discutions about efi and Holley's has/is on there, much more so than here. Besides 90% of the guys on this board are on the BB, so you will get the same advice and info here as you will there... but a simple SEARCH on both sites would have answered that, as well as mine and many other's opinions and experiances with Holley/efi.

Main difference is here we have this :flipoff2:



since you don't seem to want to search: Hoelly 2d. Love it and hate it. Off-road it really shines, on road I haven't see a whole lot over a well tunes and set up carb. Won't be pulling it off any time soon though, except maybe for a GM unit. More customizable fuel maps, more sensors, and easier availibilty of parts (over the counter and wrecking yards).

Never have got the closed loop to work well, need a new O2 sensor and just don't want to pay Holley $100 for one... and haven't gotten around to finding a common one that works..

Since my first responce was a little too "oversensative" I decided to poke some fun at myself. I do not intend to insult the intelegence of anyone but myself and I did overreact to the first posting. I was however trying to start a dialog not join one that was covering spacific issues I just wanted to get the basic impressions of holley projection users that are on the P.O.R. board. I also cross check both P.O.R and B.B. (and Just Internationals by the way)I just thought I would ask for these opinions first then the B.B. I assumed anyone who responded on this board would not bother to respond on the B.B. unless he/she thought of something more to add.


P.S. I always thought that there was a bit of sarcasm on this board which was always taken in fun or must we replace :flipoff2: :mad: :barf: :evil: with:)
edit # 2
thank you for your input

AFAIK,
Holley just uses a 1 wire O2 sensor.
which means you can buy any one you want. ~10-15 at AZ. 5 on ebay. 18mm thread.

If you want to wire for a 3 wire(+-), they include a built in heater to let the computer go into closed loop faster. they need to get to about 600* before the computer goes to closed loop.

HTH
Bill
usn-1

Originally posted by Bill usn-1
AFAIK,
Holley just uses a 1 wire O2 sensor.
which means you can buy any one you want. ~10-15 at AZ. 5 on ebay. 18mm thread.

If you want to wire for a 3 wire(+-), they include a built in heater to let the computer go into closed loop faster. they need to get to about 600* before the computer goes to closed loop.

HTH
Bill
usn-1

Bill, the Holley O2 kit even for the analog systems uses a 3 wire. These are about $60 from Jegs or Summit. It might be possible to use a 1 wire. If the 3 wire uses 2 wires (pos/neg) for the heater and 1 wire wire for the sensor (chassis ground) it should work by just splicing to the right wire. If the 3 wire uses 2 wires for the sensor then the neg wire will need to be terminated on the motor.

I have a analog 2bbl setup and it works great. It's important when you install it that all your connections are good. I would solder and heat shrink everything. Crimp on connectors are not a good idea for this stuff. Definately use 2 power relays. One for the computer main power and one for the fuel pump. Closed loop kit highly recommended. Once you get it tuned with a closed loop kit you won't need to mess with the setting again.
Oh yes, these still work here too:)

Thanks for the advice binder.
I have a tendency to use crimp connectors on all my temporary installs and repairs (which somehow wind up being permanent.) I will have to do it right (solder and shrink tubing) the first time through.