: Traction bar complete and tested (pics)


Blatant
10-01-2001, 02:59 PM
Finally got my ladder bar built and installed last week. Blake (HeyBeerMan on POR) did most of the engineering. I did most of the shitwork (i.e., grinding).

Turned out really stout. Here are a couple of pictures, unpainted:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=237979&a=13819081&p=54724122&Sequence=0&res=high

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=237979&a=13819081&p=54724124&Sequence=0&res=high

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=237979&a=13819081&p=54724094&Sequence=0&res=high
The more liquid calories Blake takes in, the worse his welding skills!

The bar itself is nicely done. We beefed the lower tube with a section of flat-stocked plug welded inside to absord punishment. The shackle end of the bar is capped off with 1-inch Grade 8 threaded rod to make it adjustable when I change my wheelbase.

The crossmember is removable and we only caught the diff on fire once! Just wanted to show off my newest mod and congratulate Blake on a job well done.

Went wheeling afterwards and the bar worked like a champ. Could really tell the difference and, best of all, I didn't break a driveline, which is unusual.
Dion

[ 10-01-2001: Message edited by: Blatant ]

AGGIECJ-7
10-01-2001, 03:23 PM
how did you connect the traction bar to the axle housing. i mean what did you weld to what....it almost looks like you welded it to the centersection

I Lean
10-01-2001, 03:31 PM
Watch those rear bolts---with as much force as they're going to be put through, they may bend being mounted in single-shear like that.

Otherwise, looks great!

Blatant
10-01-2001, 03:36 PM
Made a custom bracket that fits right into the side of the pumpkin (much torching and grinding) to attach the bar to.

Can't imagine those bolts stressing (they're massive), but I'll certainly keep an eye on it.

Also took the opportunity to weld the axle tubes on the 8.8 while we were there.
Dion

Mayhem.
10-01-2001, 04:43 PM
Looks good, now I just have to get off my arse and do the same. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

peterfj40
10-01-2001, 08:54 PM
thats sick, im gonna be making one soon too...almost exactly the same as yours

High5
10-02-2001, 01:56 AM
i'd still double sheer it. i have mine doubled and i still bent the 1/2" bolts i use. what a pita to get out!!!! they are grade 5 and now i have grade 8's so we will see. bar looks good though.

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: high5 ]

HeyBeerMan
10-02-2001, 06:56 AM
Originally posted by high5:
<STRONG>i'd still double sheer it. i have mine doubled and i still bent the 1/2" bolts i use. what a pita to get out!!!! they are grade 5 and now i have grade 8's so we will see. bar looks good though.

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: high5 ]</STRONG>

Dion will have to keep an eye on it. But we used 3/4" grade 8 bolts. They sandwich in 1-5/8" Energy Suspension bushings with a OD of aprox 2".

Like I always say "It's good enough for who it's for".

kutyafal
10-02-2001, 07:01 AM
Bar looks real good and stout but I second the single sheer on the rear. Can you take some close up of the diff mount? What wire/rod did you use to weld the tubes? Is that MIG/GMAW also? I'm building the same thing for my rear Ford 8.8 using tractor top links. Why didn't you just weld the shacle to the tcase skid/crossmember? Wouldn't it be strong enough?

daren's tJ
10-02-2001, 07:34 AM
Looks really strong. I woill be curious to here if the bolts hold up. <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">

HeyBeerMan
10-02-2001, 08:30 AM
Originally posted by kutyafal:
<STRONG>Bar looks real good and stout but I second the single sheer on the rear. Can you take some close up of the diff mount? What wire/rod did you use to weld the tubes? Is that MIG/GMAW also? I'm building the same thing for my rear Ford 8.8 using tractor top links. Why didn't you just weld the shacle to the tcase skid/crossmember? Wouldn't it be strong enough?</STRONG>

We used Rockmount Research & Alloys Mig wire. The wire is copper flashed, magnganese-silicon alloy with molybdenum. It yeilds 100,000 PSI.

We preheated the pumpkin and tubes to 350-400 degrees. No post heating, let it cool naturally.

As far as the durability of the bolts. I have been running the same setup on my Jeep for over 1-1/2 years. No problems so far.


But then again I don't drive like Dion. <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/jeep1.gif" border="0">


I like the idea of double shearing it. It just did not occur to me while we were building it.

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: HeyBeerMan ]

[ 10-02-2001: Message edited by: HeyBeerMan ]

Keith Strong
10-02-2001, 09:19 AM
Thats sick dude...I think I might pirate your ideas a little <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

LOPPY
10-02-2001, 09:28 AM
Stout job man. Nice.

I especially like your wrapped springs! They look just like mine, Keiths and a few other rigs I know.. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

NE-RokToy
10-02-2001, 09:31 AM
I definatly like the idea of the flat stock inside the bottom tube, I planned to add a peice to the bottom as a skid kinda, but your idea is alot more beefy

Blatant
10-02-2001, 04:27 PM
Kutyafal: We made a custom crossmember because attaching to the skid is sketchy. First, it's so easy to bend. Second, there's no room in the center and you need the bar to be as close to the middle of the Jeep as possible, so as not to limit articulation.
Dion

Rodney YJ
10-03-2001, 12:42 PM
Nice Job!

Mine looks real similar. I tried welding a mount to the transfer case skid and it flexed so much it cracked the skid and was hitting my TC. I have reinforced the skid and made a separate crossmember just for my shackle mount. Then my bracket broke off the rear end at Tellico. I have made a new rear bracket and no problems so far.