With the help of Matt Hodges from http://www.westtexasoffroad.com we completed my RC D60 this past weekend.

See the write up at http://jeepcj.homestead.com/axle.html

http://jeepcj.homestead.com/files/DCP_0576.jpg

Regards

MT
http://www.yellowtj.com

Cool write up!!! So how much did you end up having in that custom 60?

Let's see:

$500 for the housing
$200 for Dana 70
$30 for brake caliper brackets
$70 in new rotors
$ 5 plate 1/2" thick
$10 oil seals
$50 Chevy 3/4 calipers

$865 off the top of my head. I reused the bearings and will run the 4.10's until I can pony up for a Detroit and 5.13's

MT

That front RC D60 came out a 90 F350? I was under the impression that only 78-79 had them. Do all F350s have RC 60s in the front?

'78 & '79 models had the king pin style knuckles later models used ball joint. Ford used them through '97 then switched to a uni bearing based 60 in the Superduty line only available in drw F350-F550 with a metric lug pattern.

Regards

MT

AHHHHH!!!! :) :) Damn that's my EB in the background in some of those pics... where did the front axle go? Why are the front tires leaning against the back of the truck? I sure am glad I'm going to San Angelo this weekend to gawk at the extreme carnage my baby is experienceing without my knowledge. :eek: I am pretty psyched it's there though... that Matt Hodges character is one bad mofo when it comes to building cool custom shiat.
:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: see you on Saturday Matt.

COOL:smokin:

Excellent write up MT :cool: :cool:

Will you continue the article with pics of the diff cover mods and installed? :idea:

Originally posted by MT
'78 & '79 models had the king pin style knuckles later models used ball joint. Ford used them through '97 then switched to a uni bearing based 60 in the Superduty line only available in drw F350-F550 with a metric lug pattern.

Regards

MT

86-93/94 still used kingpins...after than they are balljoints.

Originally posted by FordPowr


86-93/94 still used kingpins...after than they are balljoints.

Yeah, and 80-85 were TTB like the F250

Cool write up...looks good, 2 questions

Where did you get the brake caliper brackets?

How did you remove the bottom of the pumpkin?
Grind, band saw, lathe...

Interesting that you did everything with the gears in place. Were you not worried about getting metal shavings in the bearings? It seems like removing the bottom of the diff could possibly change the tolerances in the R&P setup. Did you check the tolerances once it all was complete? Very nice stuff by the way.
So $850 in parts, but how much did labor cost or a rough est of labor if it wasn't an issue in your case.

The caliper brackets were bought from a local distributer for AFCO racing products I am sure they are available at http://www.afcoracing.com/

The labor was barter deal so I did not factor it into the equation.

If your looking at building one of these I highly recommend Matt he does great work and is very reasonable.

Regards

MT

Good write up, thanks.

I was thinkin, (I know, dangerous subject), wouldn't the welded side be stringer if the cut for the axle tubes was angled instead of a 90* cut?

Good writeup, but the axle-centerline to pinion-centerline, IIRC, is only 1.5" offset. So reverse-cut vs. standard-cut only provides a difference of 3" in pinion height, and that, only if your pinion sits dead-level relative to the ground.

I've said it before, I'll say it again: IMHO, reverse-cut pinions for the rear offer small advantage and sacrifice significant ultimate strength when compared to the same axle with a standard-cut pinion.

Whether the pinion height difference or driving-on-the-coast-side strength degradation is significant -- only you can judge. For me, no thanks.

I'm still waiting for the opportunity to razz Dub-dub-dub Diddy when he roaches his RC rear 60. It'll happen. :flipoff2:

Randii

Hey Randi,

Over a Year now with 35 MTRS and a REV ROT 44 in the rear.

No problems yet....

OVERBUILD IT! This prevents flex of the housing which in turn stregthens the entire assembly.

And the 3 inches you speak of is wrong. Its 3 inches from the center line. Then you rotate it upwards. Sittin level with 35's the lowest point of my rear driveshaft/ at the pinion, is 19" high.

measure your standard cut and tell us where your shaft is.

I will not disagree that the RR in the rear is slightly weaker. But as of yet, I havn't seen it up close.

What about the High 9 that curry made? BADASSJEEPGUY has had one for awhile now with no problems.. Yes he has 39.5 super swampers and beats the hell out of it. Yes he nukes the front U joints.. But big deal. We are talking apples and oranges here.

Some of us have to have RR in the rear. Unless Jess "onetonCV" can build one super driveshaft that dont bend/or break on rock contact. I'll keep my RR and my shaft up high thank you very much.

Yet your intitled to your opinion. And once I finish my RR60 for the rear and Standard 60 for the front. I'll let you know which one nukes first. :D

Oh yea MT, Nice write up. Good job.

Do you have anymore rr60's laying around?

Great write up!
Is the $500 for the 60 housing correct? If it was a core that was headed for the scrap pile I would think they would just about give it away.
Did the ring have to be turned down to clear the shaved housing?

Very nice writeup!:D Looks hella stout....