Anyone know of any other options for a SYE for a 242? I think I'm leaning toward the Currie because of the standard yoke. Any input on experiences with these or any others? I need to get something decided and ordered to get my XJ back together. Also, what's the best source for these?

Hey...... anyone got one laying around! :)

Thanks,
Mike

Tom Woods. They have one. They do more than drivelines

www.jbconversions.com

Originally posted by XJMJ
Tom Woods. They have one. They do more than drivelines

I was under the understanding that Wood's was a currie kit? :confused:

Originally posted by papastoy
www.jbconversions.com
I don't think JB does one for the 242?..... do they????

Originally posted by oregon


I was under the understanding that Wood's was a currie kit? :confused:
Not shure but Currie might be more $$$ than others. I talked to Tom Wood and was under the impression he had his own thing. Don't know for shure if they are the same.

I ended up ordering the TW kit, as its about the only thing out there for the 242 :(

Tried to find the same info for my rig.

I talked to Tom Woods and he said his kit is identical to the RE setup. It is a hack-n-tap. The only difference, is they use cores to chop down and tap for you.

So, get Tom Woods kit and install a new mainshaft, or get RE's and cut and tap yourself.

It sucks there are not any HD options for the 242.

I am thinking about clocking my 242 and flattening my belly, which would mean SYE time at 7+ inches of lift. If I did that, I'd TRY a to make my own SYE. The thing is, I'm running a 249 style output on the 242, which is a big seal right at the END of the output shaft, so no hacking is both impossible and unnecessary! Here's what I'm thinking:

1. take a stock yoke, and machine a flat RIGHT in the middle, which would fit a bolt head and a socket. This would be pretty easy with a big endmill. It would be cooler, however, to find a yoke that took ubolts, rather than current enclosed yoke. As always, the less custom the part is, the easier it will be to carry as a spare.

2. Next step is to keep the yoke OUT a little bit from bottom. That yoke, if you let it go all the way, actually contacts the seal surface before it bottoms on the shaft. So, you either change the OD where it hits the seal, or you make a spacer that fits inbetween the end of the yoke and the shaft, to keep it off a bit. Personal preference makes me want to try to re use some of the shaft I cut when I did a friend's RE Hack and tap. :)

3. Then you perform the rest of the tapping fun. I bet, that just as it makes the cut go better on the RE Hack and tap, letting the engine spin the output shaft a bit will make the drilling a little more true, all lathe-style. You might hog out the hole a bit, but that's fine for the first hole. :)

Just an idea. I figure, you just need to stick a yoke on there hard enough so that it doesn't want to disengage the splines before the driveshaft elongates.

Cheers
Bob