Has anyone got a source for a new one that goes into the plenum? I've called a couple of different parts houses and worn google out, the first three pages of hits I got I've been to, looking for one.

I had a machine shop fab a fitting for the vacuum line using the plug that was in it and a brass nipple, but the idle has started jumping up and down 200-300 rpm since I started pulling a vacuum out of the plenum.

Discount Rovers 1-502-8-rovers

Sweet, thanks.

One more round of bleeding and I should be done. I had to rebleed the master cylinder and I went back through and found a couple of fittings were wet, so I retightened them.

Running brake lines is a pain in the ass. My hard lines look like hell going to the rear, but I am going to change them when I put a lift on it and get the EAS out of the way.

Overall the process has been fairly easy, but not without problems. The hardest part has been trying to get the right length brake lines and snaking them through and around all the shit, shooting pressure to them and making sure they are tight.

I've used a Girling MC and Servo, Summit Proportioning Valve, a 2lb residiual pressure valve from Inline Tube for the rear and Gordon stainless steel brake lines.

This winter I am going to stick all new rotors and new set of rear calipers on it when I do my lift.

I feel your pain. I am avoiding doing the same thing on my flat-bed, and may yet pull the engine out for the Series truck. I just can't look forward to pulling the wheel cylinders and replumbing the damned thing.

Good luck.

Now I have to get busy on the driver's side rear window that doesn't work and the AC, I'm going to have the compressor rebuilt and change it over to 134a.

I'm not sure about the window, it is down about a 1/4" and it won't work with either switch, so I am going to pull the panel off tomorrow and check the connections at the motor and maybe pull the motor out and shoot some juice to it to see if it will move. I guess the computer would be the next thing to check and see if there is a broken solder connection on it. I found the pics that show how to remove it, I just don't know which would be easier or the more likely problem, to remove the computer first or pull the door panel and fish out the damn motor.

When my grandparents had a service station, I was always the go to guy for window motor replacement. We had a rash of Ford's come in with motor trouble one month and I got really good at swapping the motors out, but I always cut myself to shit on the damn thin metal on the interior of the door.