I have heard a ton of conflicting info on wether you should turn you knuckles or not when you do a SOA, can anyone shed any light on this subject? I had disc's up front and I was wondering if this played into it at all. Thanks!

Ahhhh yes,,, a local Newbie,,,,,

Welcome:flipoff2:

Since he's closest to you Shawn, you have to answer all of his "newbie" questions, HAHA Welcome newbie. :flipoff2:

yes, turen your knuckles while its all being done. otherwise..your steering gets fawked up. its worth the extra 250-300 to do it. i dont see why brakes would make any difference..a knuckle is a knuckle...

IMO, if you are doing a shackle reversal in conjunction with the SOA work, then the cut-turn is a required part of that. The way the pinion rotates down in relation to the front-mounted springs worsens your u-joint angles and is VERY likely to bind at droop.

If you are not doing the shackle reversal at the same time, then the cut-turn becomes an optional part. You can set the truck up to meet stock caster and since the pinion rotates up slightly on droop, you will not have the potential binding problems. However, if you end up running significantly larger tires ($36+), which is part of the reason for doing the SOA in the first place, then added caster from the factory +1 degree will greatly help your tracking while driving. (mine is about +3 or so)

There have been 100's of discussions on this topic here on the LC portion of PBB....a quick search should net you some thoughts. Also, check out the links on my site for how others have done them.

Originally posted by FeCamel
Since he's closest to you Shawn, you have to answer all of his "newbie" questions, HAHA Welcome newbie. :flipoff2:

Ohhh is that how it works,,,,:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Thanks for all the good info, it really helped straighten a few things out. I guess truning the knukles is the only way to go, Shawn do you know of anyone good in SLC that does this? My buddy has a 60 and he had it done but I forgot where he got it done at. Thanks again!:rasta:

If you've got a grinder, an angle finder, and a welder you can do it yourself.

There was a post a while back that explained it in detail.

To summarize; cut a groove through the "1st layer" of the housing about 1" from the end of the housing. Don't cut into the inner "layer" cause this is what that "ball" on the end of the housing is part of.
Stick a big bar through the holes in the ball where the bearings ride (top and bottom) and turn the housing end to the angle you want.
Then weld.
Done.:beer:

NOTE: Turning the knuckles on a dana is a very different operation than what is used on a cruiser or toy front housing.