I know its possible to take the entire knuckle off in one piece, but what do I need to do to accomplish this? The only time I have ever taken them off, I had to do everything as I was rebuilding/swapping mini truck knuckles.

Well, you can't really leave it as one piece, but you can come pretty close. Remove the upper steering arm, then the metal half-moon pieces on the wiper felts, you should be able to get the knuckle off.

all you have to do to remove the knuckle is remove the steering arm and the bering cap on the bottom. you also have to remove the two metal half moon shaped pieces on the back that hold the felt on. once you get those 4 pieces off you should be able to wrestle the whole thing off but beware it is heavy as hell.

make sure you take the hub off and remove the bbirfield c-clip or fender washer before you try and pull the nuckle off or the birfield will cause you problems.

ok...well here is the problem...I have these armshttp://www.rockstomper.com/images/products/steering/highsteer/toyota/arms01.jpg , and the bearing cap on the apparently comes off of the arm. Guess where it is currently residing :rolleyes: . So how do I get the #$%@#$% thing out??? I can't get the knucle off cuz the top part is still in, just like the arm was still on. I cant push it out from the bottom cuz i can't get the knuckle off.

you only have to take one side off and not the other.

remove hub, remove c-clip off birfield

turn birfield so flat spots are in the indents in the trunion seat area. pull straight towards self.

you only have to take one side off and not the other.

remove hub, remove c-clip off birfield

turn birfield so flat spots are in the indents in the trunion seat area. pull straight towards self.



Exactly.....Just do it.

sounds like these will be coming off in the AM then.

Thanks!!

P.S., I've never taken the lower cap completely off, just loosened it to help with re-assembly.

So FJ-John, you're saying the part of the steering arm that goes into the knuckle has separated from the arm?? That SUCKS< and will cause you headaches on the trail fo sho'

Nope...because they are being replaced with the RBS arms which should be arriving any days now. :D

I am assuming those are the two peice Rockstomper arms?

yup. they are flat and my tie rod hits my springs wiht ANY compression, so I am moving up to the RBS arms.

I considered the Rockstomper arms but had the same concerns with arm height and spring contact.

I installed AllPro's and with my setup they are exactly the height I wanted...do need to add a washer-two tho to the drag link heim since it's a bit tight on droop.

Originally posted by fj40john
yup. they are flat and my tie rod hits my springs wiht ANY compression, so I am moving up to the RBS arms.

We installed one set on a customers truck, they actually worked great because he wanted the lowest-lift spring over we could do (so the leafs were very close to the axle and the tie-rod has adequate clearance)... On any other spring over, I think they will hit the spring while sitting, let alone with some uptravle at either end.

The RBS arms are great... I still have issues with the Drag link end hitting the leaf spring under lots of droop, even after I took out all but 2 of my anti-friction strips.

I got the spring pad down as low as I could on the pumpkin... it's basically L-shaped to fit flat, and I have 5* of caster dialed in. The contact isn't enough to make me worry about breaking anything, but if another hole was in the steering arm, it wouldn't be an issue. That said, I'm not changing. The shit is BEEF!

Originally posted by cruiseroutfit


We installed one set on a customers truck, they actually worked great because he wanted the lowest-lift spring over we could do (so the leafs were very close to the axle and the tie-rod has adequate clearance)... On any other spring over, I think they will hit the spring while sitting, let alone with some uptravle at either end.
got any pics???

Originally posted by BJ On Roids

got any pics???

I will snap some next time it is in.

A few more details I remembered about the job:

We used the moroso perches and cut them so the flat top of the perch rest right against the top of the axle housing (within an 1/8" anyways)

We also added some material to the top of the arms and machined them at a slight angle so that the tie-rod ends would be in the arm at a 90* angle (prolong their life)

Then we retapered the hole to the bigger FJ ends that are on it now...

From now on I will just use the Marlin Arms....

ok, i feel really stupid for asking again, but oh well. I dont need to pull the hub nut or anythign else off right?? I removed the metal half moon pieces, and the hub. I have pulled the arms off the top (but the retainer is still there), and pulled the bottom retainer downabout half an inch. Saw a groove on the birf, but no clip, have tried a few different positions (trying to get the flats in the right place), and still nothing. The thing refuses to move. I would have just said screw it and taken it apart by now, but I dont have my hub socket here. :rolleyes:

The only good thing about all this is that during my breaks from messing with it, I have been slowly installing my TBI. :D

Just to review (I am thinking about doing it as I type)

1. Remvove 6 lockout hub face bolts, remove hub face, remove c-slip or fender washer/bolt assembly.

2. Remove 8 bolts on back side of knuckle, then remove the half-moon metal strips that they are holding on. Pull the felt, rubber and metal band out of the way of the knuckle.

3. Remove 4 nuts and washers from top of steering arm. Do what ever needs be to remove the 4 cone washers from the top of the steering arm.

4. Swing the removed steering arm completely out of the way.

5. Lift up on the complete assembly as you tip the hub towards the ground, pull completely out of the way.

(Birf position doesn't matter, it should stay in the housing)

Hope that helps...

:mad:
I am PISSED at these knuckles. or maybe I should be pissed at my self for not being able to get them off??:confused:

Anyway, I have followed the instructions on here, and got nowhere...my room mate looked too and couldn't get anywhere. I can wiggle them up and down, but I can not get them to move outward for anything. Guess I am picking up my hub socket this weekend and taking them apart.:rolleyes:

With the steering arm removed, can you look in the hole and see the top trunnion bearing floating around? If it gets in an awkward angle when you pull that it won't let the knuckle come off, carefully stick your finger in there and make sure it isn't binding...

the arms come off....but they are just a flat piece of steel...the bearing retainer is still there (the part circled in red). it is basically flush with the top of the knuckle....the only hole up top is the grease hole which is about 1.5 mm diameter.

That is the reason that they wont come off, the top is stuck in the bearing...any ideas now?:confused:

I don't think they are supposed to be like that!? Maybe they broke? If they did then I think you're fawked, you'll have to pull the whole axle apart!

Doh!

In theory you should remove that arm, and be able to remove the whole hub / knuckly spindle assembly, after you remove the "wipers" from the rear of the knuckle that is around the ball. After that, push down on the bearing because it will be loosely stuck on the knuckle, then pull the whole knuckle out...

Good luck!!

Andre

What do you guys think about welding a nut or bolt or SOMETHING to the top of the round part so that I have somethign to grip and pull it out with??

Pull the bottom cap off, and take a 3/8" ratchet extension (- about 12")and knock the pin out of the center of the bearing...

leave the steering arm on! (have you removed the cone wahsers?)


you can remove the knuckle by simply pulling the lower trunion seat, so undo your tie rod and leave the steering arm on.

Originally posted by fj40john
the arms come off....but they are just a flat piece of steel...the bearing retainer is still there (the part circled in red). it is basically flush with the top of the knuckle....the only hole up top is the grease hole which is about 1.5 mm diameter....

Pull of the bottom trunnion cap...

That has been a problem with that design of arms, a major flaw IMHO, the ones we used have not done that yet but I have been worried after seeing yours and another pull apart into two pieces.