FJ40Dude75
07-05-2003, 09:52 AM
just got myself s 96 tracker with the 1.6 plans are to pull motor and put it in my sammy and build the tracker for rocks -toy axles coil rear spring over front and I got a good deal on a 4.3 so I am wondering if anyone has done a 4.3 sm465 np205 swap and if it works good I have a 350 sm465 tlc 3 in my cruiser and love it any help would be great
twistedmetal
07-05-2003, 12:21 PM
Hee, hee....
Well, the 205 won't fit between the frame rails, and it would hang down about 6 inches with stock mounting position, so you definately don't want to clock it down any. I've never tried the 465. but I can tell you that there is VERY little room to work with up in that tunnel. I'm only used to seeing SM420s in things, and I believe they are pretty tall. I have a 4.3, TH350 and a Toyota T-case in mine. Run a search for Sidekicks as they are they same thing, but there tends to be more 'Kicks out there than Trackers.
If I remember right, the 4.3 will fit fine if you use the stock radiator, but may have to give up the manual fan. I also think that the crossmember for the engine and IFS(right under the motor) needs to go. There is also a crossmember right behind the rear output of the Tcase? DO NOT REMOVE THIS UNTIL YOU ARE POSITIVE IT IT IS IN THE WAY! I ran some quick measurements and it came up within an inch or two, so I chopped it out. Turns out that it would have been UNDER the new output and it will not hurt any. I ended up shoving another, smaller peice of tube in it's place(it was the next smaller OD, so it fit in the remainder of the tube that passes through the framerails). The factory one has a "bump" in it to allow you to run your exhaust. My new one didn't have that and it was a bitch to exhaust! If you 3-4 link the rear, this crossmember is absolutely perfect!
I also dropped my motor WAAY down in the engine bay to keep COG low, but I almost fawked myself because the front axle gets REAL close to the oil pan. The motor mounts sit about 2-3 inches below the top of the frame rail. When you make your engine cradle, be sure to run it from frame rail to frame rail, not just two separate mounts like I first did. As you start removing more and more parts, theframe rails start to twist. That, and you'll need a crossmember to mount a center limit strap. Good luck!
twistedmetal
07-05-2003, 12:25 PM
Oh, and you'll need to stretch the frame a bit in the front if you go leafs. I had to stretch my WB from its factory 86 inches to 94" just to clear the tires. The rear isn't bad, but the front is too close with the factory Cheerio tires!
Sorry for you all to have to see this pic AGAIN, but here's what it will look like with 94" WB and 38s.
FJ40Dude75
07-05-2003, 04:45 PM
that is one bad mother thanks for the info i will probably be need ing more later but that is exactly what I want to build but mine is teal if the np205 hangs so low what should I use I want low gears like the sm465 and I got the motor 4.3 already and i have a 700r but dont like auto to much
DaleL
07-05-2003, 04:50 PM
Twisted:
What exhaust manifolds are you using?
twistedmetal
07-05-2003, 06:04 PM
DaleL--I'm using stock manifolds. The motor's out of an 89 S-10, I've heard van 4.3s create issues, but I don't know why. It was REALLY fawkin tight to run exhaust, and it cost me $350 in coin, but It was done by a pro and is awesome.
FJ40dude...feel free to ask whatever you like. Personally, I'm an auto freak, I swear by them. They just let you worry about wheelin, rather than which foot is doing what and what gear you're in. Not to mention, I'm gonna run a 75hp No2 shot later, and you just can't outshift an auto. Not to mention, you miss a shift and...:nuke: BUT, that's my own problem!
I,m thinkin' that if you need to go manny tranny, what about Yota? Light, tight, and built right. Minus the lack of a lower 1st. But that tunnel is really tight, hell, I even had to shave the ears off of the TH350 to shoehorn it in there, and still run a belly pan. I strongly feel that no matter what tranny you decide on, the Yota case is the way to go. It took a $430 adapter to mate it to my TH350, but the 4.7 kit was only $420. With the 4.3, the TH350, and the Yota case+adapter, my driveshafts are only 1" within each others' lengths, that means spares are gonna be a breeze!
In the pic below, you can see how the Yota case was MADE to be there, plus how difficult exhaust became by losing that Xmember(I'm stupid, stupid, stupid!)