During and before the swap, I didn't find too much info for this swap. Well, I did it, didn't have to run to AA for help. Read on if interested. :D

Vehicle specs before swap: 1982 CJ7 w/ 258, T150, D20
"New tranny/t-case: "later" model wide ratio (6.32:1) 1st gear and 1980 Scout Dana 300. (earlier T19s reverse is over and up, later reverse is over and down).

With my AMC engine, there were three options to doing the swap.
1. Find a IH tranny to AMC bellhousing.
pros: direct bolt in for engine and trans, low cost to purchase (<$150)
cons: finding one- they had a 2yr production run, they weigh 100#, they're 3" longer than a standard CJ bellhousing, you'll have a whole bunch o' clutch issues to deal with.

2. Buy a inputshaft/bearing retainer kit from Parts Mike or AA.
pros: off-the-shelf parts specifically used for this application
cons: cost ($200-500), have to pay tranny shop to swap in shaft

3. Send inputshaft to Moser Engineering and have them grind IH 'shaft to Jeep dimensions
pros: cost (<$80), when done you can use all stock Jeep clutch components and geometry
cons: have to pay tranny shop to remove and swap in shaft, have to send Moser a clutch disc, pilot bushing, and sample input shaft.

Since the tranny I bought was completely disassembled and I'd have to pay for rebuild fees anyways, I chose option #3 and saved a few bucks. Here's how it went.

T150 Shaft on left, T19 shaft on right
http://www.michiganjeepers.com/photopost/data/500/795T19_T150_Shafts.JPG

Cut T19 shaft on left, T150 shaft on right
http://www.michiganjeepers.com/photopost/data/500/795T19_Shaft.JPG
I didn't think anything of it when I took this pic, but there is a problem.
If you look at the T150 shaft, you'll notice that the shaft is the same diameter from tip to the front of the bearing retainer surface. The T19 shaft has more material in front of the bearing retainer surface.

Having the wider surface means that the Scout bearing retainer must be used with a Scout clutch fork and T/O bearing. But- it still may not work. Look at the below pic. The T19 (top tranny) has a bearing retainer that is cut down to Jeep length. The neck of the retainer isn't the same length as the T150. So, this would mean (assuming I'm using a Jeep bellhousing and custom clutch fork and T/O bearing) that the T/O bearing would have less room to travel than it should have.

T150 on bottom, T19 w/ cut shaft on top
http://www.michiganjeepers.com/photopost/data/500/795T19_T150.jpg

The solution to the bearing retianer problem: Buy a bearing retainer for a Ford T19, and have the 'shaft re-machined to fit that retainer.

T19 with input shaft re-machined in bearing retainer area and Ford T19 bearing retainer.
http://www.michiganjeepers.com/photopost/data/500/795T19_Done.jpg

Bellhousing- I used my T150 bellhousing, but I had to measure and drill holes for the 1/2" studs on the tranny. It took some time, but it worked out very well.

Notes from the install: Since I used my T150 bellhousing, this unit bolted right in. I didn't have to change/chop/alter any clutch part, buy any new clutch parts. I used the factory skid plate, but had to drill 2 holes for mounting and find some suitable rubber bushings for mounting. The shifter tower lined up with my original hole, but I need to lengthen the shifter.
I also swapped the reverse light switch from the T150 to the T19. The T150 has a spade terminal connection, the T19 has a couple pins. It was easier for me to swap the T150 switch on the T19- they're identical and I don't have to chop the harness and make something new. (no big deal, but one less thing to worry about).

D300- well, just bolted that on the back of the T19. The speedo gear input is in a different spot, but I had enough length to bolt it there- and it's the same thread as the D20.

Floor shot
http://www.michiganjeepers.com/photopost/data/500/795T19_Sticks.jpg

The aftermath:
Well, this combo rendered my driveshafts useless. It added a few inches, so I gotta order new 'shafts this week. I did have an unforseen problem. I have to make a trip to the exhaust man. The added lenght of the T19/D300 interfered with my mufflers- custom duals. So, I had to chop out one to get the t-case in.

So, until the driveshafts are in, no road test commentary. Until then, here's some crawl ratio numbers factoring 35" tires, 4.88 R&P.

T150-D20 Low Range T19-D300
29.62 1st_____________80.80 1st
17.34 2nd_____________39.51 2nd
09.91 3rd_____________21.48 3rd
31.40 Rev_____________12.79 4th
______________________88.99 Rev

T150-D20 High Range T19-D300

14.59 1st_____________30.84 1st
08.54 2nd_____________15.08 2nd
04.88 3rd_____________8.20 3rd
15.47 Rev_____________4.88 4th
______________________33.96 Rev


Special thanks to:
Diesel YJ for the D300
Mo for the T19
4Bangler for the usage of the T150 input shaft
Parts Mike for the new bearing retainer.
:cool:
:beer:

Good arcticle, didn't know that moser would do input shafts. Not sure why you paid to have the tranny assembled though, they are very easy to put together.

So you had it remachined... did you have to send the whole thing to Moser or just the shaft????

No twin stick?

Good article. :D

Meyer:
"my tranny guy" is a really cool ol'timer who enjoys working on these old pieces.
He removed the shaft for free, then I took it to a local shop where a friend of a friend turned down the excess for free. :cool: Then "tranny guy" reinstalled the shaft, added an oil slinger, some more new gaskets, and only charged $50.

I'll have the twin stick soon. . I have the homebrewed brakets, just need the second stick.

oldjeep: I've never screwed around with tranny internals, eventhough this one is about as basic as it gets. But my reassembly fee including gaskets and new bearing was under $150 :cool: IMO, well worth sparing myself the pain and aggrivation for doing it myself. Besides, Mo gave me a smokin' deal on it ;)

Nice writeup!

You may not recognize it once you get to take it out.:)

Scott