My scout is getting a new front and rear.

Bushings are dead, will replace them soon.

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/070503-D44and2.5tonfront_4482.JPG

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/070503-wigglingaxle_4477.JPG

The front D44 barely made it out because of the bumpstops. :D

Due to the spring over conversion and larger tires, the frame will ride close to 12-14" higher than stock

You could have pulled the front shackle bolts & pulled the axle out forwards...;)

I would have, but the bolts were rusted to the bushing sleeve. I don't want to burn them until I have replacements. The biggest motivation for the project is needing the rear axle shafts for the travelall...long story. ;)

bwahahah sux to be SU :flipoff2:

One side installed. Pinion is in nearly the same spot. Pinion half misses the oil pan, but the drum part that sticks out the side will hit. a big hammer and 2x4 would help this. :D

I used the GI U-bolts and all associated hardware.

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/070603-onesidedone_4500.JPG

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/070603-centerchunk_4501.JPG

I recommend different front springs. Front scout springs won't last a day wheeling on rockwells

Because of axle wrap?

Originally posted by 69travelall
Because of axle wrap?

Because you now have an axle that is 2-3 times the weight of the org axle, that is considerably wider WMS to WMS (more leverage on the springs), and springs that are marginal at best for a stock SOA application.

Don't forget to beef the frame at the spring/shackle mounts or you'll rip them off the frame.

That ws one of my fears. While under the thing I had the chance to admire the factory spring mounts...and wonder why it lasted so long. :)

Anyway, I'm convinced to go coils in the rear. Someone in town has some old bronco springs that I'll throw back there. Thats proably the best idea, since I can adjust ride height, swap springs easily, and have a 90+ degree departure angle.

Do you think its ready for the mall??? :D

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/070603-goingtothemall_4537.JPG

All the air has been let out of the rear tires, but its still pretty good. This truck will get used in a lot of mud, country terrain, and some mild rocks.

one bump and that body is going to fall off youl be lefy with a frame and rockwells rolling away from you.


why wast such nice axels on such a POS :flipoff2:

Because this ain't much better. :D

http://www.alaskaoffroad.com/cgi-bin/iB_html/uploads/post-4-10411-81_FordVan_Full.jpg

Plus, I've all ways wondered how a 196 would treat rockwells. :cool:

Originally posted by 69travelall
I would have, but the bolts were rusted to the bushing sleeve. I don't want to burn them until I have replacements. The biggest motivation for the project is needing the rear axle shafts for the travelall...long story. ;)

You need some rear shafts for a travelall so you decided to put rockwells on your Scout:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Originally posted by 69travelall
Pinion half misses the oil pan, but the drum part that sticks out the side will hit.

http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/070603-centerchunk_4501.JPG

Stretch the wheelbase!

Originally posted by 69travelall
My scout is getting a new front and rear.


http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/070503-wigglingaxle_4477.JPG

The front D44 barely made it out because of the bumpstops. :D


Sweet Jackstands! :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Sully


Sweet Jackstands! :flipoff2:

There's more where that came from... :D

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/071203-blockedwheels_4557.JPG

Almost ready to pull the rear axle under the thing to mount it. I've got a set of F150 coils that should work for now. I might have to get something softer.

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/071203-jacked_4563.JPG

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/071203-outathere_4571.JPG

My military tires say "Regrooveable" on the side. So, why not? I don't have any neat toys...like a grooving iron, so I just started to think of things that can cut. A sawzall kinda worked, but it was real slow. A Skill Saw, however, worked GREAT! :) Its a little easier than cutting aluminum.

Note, the pictures below are of a BALD NDT tire.

Step 1: Visit baldie patch
http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/080603-baldiepatch_4767.JPG

Step 2: Admire a spring pack or two. (front! )
http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/080603-ohhyeah_4775.JPG

Step 3: You've got to know how far to set the cut depth!!! Look for the cords.
http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/080603-sidewalldrilled_4788.JPG

Step 4: Do the sidewall.
http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/080603-sidewallsmoke.JPG

Step 5: Do the tread.
http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/080603-treadsmoke.JPG

Opps...image limit. Continued... ;)

Admire the new tire.
http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/080603-sidewallcut_4805.JPG

I will show the results in worst to best. ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/080603-deeplugsdontlikeit_4798.JPG
Cut the stupid thing when its mounted to a truck (deflated of course). Its real hard to do when your holding the tire with your knees. THis was he hardest to do. Still only took 2-3 minutes to remove 3/8x2x12 of rubber. :)

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/080603-MStread_4795.JPG
Maybe a good Mud and snow version? (not your kind of mud)

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/080603-niceone_4796.JPG
Like the Michelin. This one would probably do pretty good.

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/080603-snowice_4797.JPG
Who knows...

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/080603-snowiceflex_4802.JPG
Flex from the "Who knows" tire. Try to get your NDT to do that with a 150lb person. :thumb3:

These are all "draft" patterns. I'd probably draw the cut lines on it for a good set of tires. How does the mud and snow version look? A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE in flex after. ;) And cheap too.

I have video of the skill saw footage. Anyone interested in a short crazy movie? ;) Tell me what you think, or suggest a different pattern for me to try.

Originally posted by 69travelall
Tell me what you think...

Did your mom drop a hair dryer in the your bath water when you were a kid? :flipoff2:

total dollars spent=0, correct?

if so i cant say much:beer:

Did you check the tread depth on the tread surface? I believe you can go deeper than 3/8. Actually .375 is still pretty damn good for a baloney skin tire.

Originally posted by 69travelall

Flex from the "Who knows" tire. Try to get your NDT to do that with a 150lb person. :thumb3:



Some sweet sidewall dry-rot going on there too! :D

Glad to see you were wearing safety glasses (edit) wouldn't want you doing anything unsafe :rolleyes: http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/080603-treadsmoke.JPG

Did you check the tread depth on the tread surface? I believe you can go deeper than 3/8. Actually .375 is still pretty damn good for a baloney skin tire.

I checked it, and went about 1/8" away from the cords. On a fresh tire, 3/4 - 1" of tread at the center of the tire might be available. Since this was a junk tire (rotten) I just drilled all the way through in several places and checked for the cords.

Another good example as to why people shouldn't smoke crack. I'm sorry dude but I got to say that is some of the lamest shit I've ever seen.:flipoff2:

Jeff
________
Leather Cam (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/webcam/fetish/leather/)

Bwahaha funny shit man you must :smokin: alot ( I can see wher your coming from thow)

I thought of you chief when I drove to get my rubber today.

Not quite to the valley yet. ;)
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/111603-thunder_5642.JPG

I decided to bring this pile back to life.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/110903-scoutstatus_5597.JPG

I'm going to put on the 3.73 D44s with no break parts.

This is what a tire store looks like at below zero.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/111503-destination_5664.JPG

Imagine...51.7"x19.5" tractor tires on a 3.73 D44. I don't think I will break any parts or have any torque problems. Stay tuned for my solution. ;) :D

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/111603-pickupandtires_5674.JPG

Late november early december I should have the front D44 finished. Just gotta buy some 1/2 plate and some of that propylene stuff.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/111503-goingdownhighway_5650.JPG

You're putting those tires on a D44 with 3.73's :rolleyes:

Couple of problems I see here, first you need to lay off the :smokin:

Second, the axles are going to self destruct, followed by the tranny for trying to turns those meats.

Third if you are using Scout II 44's you will not have enough width to clear the frame unless you run 0 backspacing, in which case see number 2

I think you need to read a few of the build-ups here for ideas

www.bootyfab.com

You and the chief should get together and do some kind of a northwoods version of a vulcan mind melt.:rolleyes:

Originally posted by ChiScouter
You and the chief should get together and do some kind of a northwoods version of a vulcan mind melt.:rolleyes:

I think it be more of melting minds then anything else.

Originally posted by ChiScouter
You and the chief should get together and do some kind of a northwoods version of a vulcan mind melt.:rolleyes:


sounds like a plan ;)





bwahahah I love this shit :laughing: :laughing: :smokin:

Well, first of all the only time a vulcan's mind melts is when the mind meld goes really wrong. I don't know, maybe it did... :eek: :D

As far as strength, with a final gear ratio of 130:1, some of it after the shafts... :cool:

Sure, I've done stupid things like groove a NDT with a skill saw... But have a little faith here! I also built a CNC plasma table in my garage, and built an alternator plasma cutter using a bunch of capacitors and a hair dryer!

Why else would the front dana 44 only be "done" early december? :D

But either way, you guys will get to see something. If its a pile of twisted scout or if its something that moves under its own power...

what happend to the rockwells :confused:

They were liberated to the van. At 7000lbs empty the semi float D60 rear and Ford D60 front wouldn't last too long.

Remember this other beauty? :)

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/092903-wayitlooks_5326.JPG

Scored a winch 2 months ago, will look good on the scout. :cool:

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/092603-loadedwithforklift_5222.JPG

Originally posted by 69travelall
...and built an alternator plasma cutter using a bunch of capacitors and a hair dryer!...
Care to eleborate on this? A CNC table would be cool, but a low buck plasma cutter that doesn't melt your nuts with HF or RF would be really cool.

Yes, I'm just not ready for pictures of it yet. Its a dangerous ball of wires that looks worse than tangled up christmas lights.

Imagine this X about 100. I want the presentation to be decent. So I won't say much more untill my CNC table spits out some box walls. ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/102603-whatitlookslike_5548.jpg

Thats an alternator running two 1500w hair dryers and a 500w halogen bulb, sustaining 100v @ 25A. The same output as the little Miller Spectrum 375.

Not shown is the air supply, torch, air solenoid, contactor, and some interlock stuff.

Originally posted by 69travelall
I also built a CNC plasma table in my garage, and built an alternator plasma cutter using a bunch of capacitors and a hair dryer!



That's either one of the coolest things I've ever heard or the most horrific. I'm leaning toward the first.:D

I got to keep reading this thread you all are making my day a little better

What is in the plywood boxes, AK-47's??


Originally posted by 69travelall
Yes, I'm just not ready for pictures of it yet. Its a dangerous ball of wires that looks worse than tangled up christmas lights.

Imagine this X about 100. I want the presentation to be decent. So I won't say much more untill my CNC table spits out some box walls. ;)

http://diywelder.com/media/images/102603-whatitlookslike_5548.jpg

Thats an alternator running two 1500w hair dryers and a 500w halogen bulb, sustaining 100v @ 25A. The same output as the little Miller Spectrum 375.

Not shown is the air supply, torch, air solenoid, contactor, and some interlock stuff.

Originally posted by 69travelall


http://diywelder.com/media/images/102603-whatitlookslike_5548.jpg

.

love the feet on the alt cart :D

I think the feet are valve springs from a diesel.

Pieces for 3 rims:
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112503-metalforrim_5744.jpg

Had to shovel over a foot of snow to get to the tarp covering the axles. :(

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112503-axlepilefront_5749.jpg

Frozen everything...after 30 minutes, the propane tank ouput dropped too. :(

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112503-thawthegrease_5751.jpg

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112503-alldone_5769.jpg

All done.

3 sheets, rolled.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112603-drumsinpickup_5770.jpg

A little bit of spring to it. 23" OD for a 24" rim.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112603-drumintire_5773.jpg

Grade 8, 1/2x3", $0.223 a set.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112603-beadlockbolt_5776.jpg

:D

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112603-biggerchain_5775.jpg

This long weekend I'll be building a mount for my machine flame burner. Then CNC cut some sprockets from 1.125" steel. :D

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/111403-flameburner_5600.JPG

I'm also trying to figure out what the best way is to move a pile of scout through a foot of snow all the way up a hill. :mad: $60 costco winch hooked to my battery charger. :cool:

Originally posted by 69travelall
3 sheets, rolled.
http://diywelder.com/media/images/112603-drumsinpickup_5770.jpg

A little bit of spring to it. 23" OD for a 24" rim.
http://diywelder.com/media/images/112603-drumintire_5773.jpg

Grade 8, 1/2x3", $0.223 a set.
http://diywelder.com/media/images/112603-beadlockbolt_5776.jpg

:D

http://diywelder.com/media/images/112603-biggerchain_5775.jpg

This long weekend I'll be building a mount for my machine flame burner. Then CNC cut some sprockets from 1.125" steel. :D

http://diywelder.com/media/images/111403-flameburner_5600.JPG

I'm also trying to figure out what the best way is to move a pile of scout through a foot of snow all the way up a hill. :mad: $60 costco winch hooked to my battery charger. :cool:
Intriguing to say the least.... but instead of asking about this latest post I'm gonna back up a little. I know you said you don't want to post up any pics yet of your homebrew plasma, but what about a parts breakdown. What size capacitors? how many? basic description of the hook up?

I've read this whole post twice, and I still can't figure out what the hell you are making here.???

This started as an axle swap and then you put up pictures of a big ass chain and a weird looking torch???

Lemme know if I'm totally missing something here.

Originally posted by Scout8hundred
I've read this whole post twice, and I still can't figure out what the hell you are making here.???

This started as an axle swap and then you put up pictures of a big ass chain and a weird looking torch???

Lemme know if I'm totally missing something here.


This is by far one of the bests post in the IH fourm :laughing:

800:
Torch, 1.25" steel, 53" tires, sprockets, big chain... :D

TORC:
I scratched my head after posting that mess of a power output demo...why not just put pictures of the thing up? Two things, I only have one torch, and its in the garage on the CNC table. Money. I decided to buy another torch as soon as I get paid...and all of my finals are done. :( After the 13th (possibly before if I finish my papers) I will buy a second torch and get some action shots as is.

To get the correct constant current output curve, I brought all 3 phases of the alternator outside the case. Not just 3 phase AC, but all 3 coils isolated from each other.

Then I built a capacitor voltage doubler for each phase. Each doubler has a total of about 4000uf of 250v capacitors.

At 5000RPM, 11v into the rotor (~4A, 44W), the alternator now produces a steady 340vDC. A little high, but thats what all of the interlock stuff is for. As the load on the alternator increases, the voltage drops. 100v is the normal operating voltage.

Using a load of two 1500w hair dryers and a 500w halogen bulb I am able to sustain 100v@25-27A with a 135A 12v alternator. Under load I tested the alternator, and each coil was putting out about 19vAC. You might think 19x2x3 doesn't equal 100, we have RMS voltage issues, capacitors, and the fact that the voltage doubler doesn't work all that great. ;)

Other people have e-mailed me about this, so here are some clippings of my e-mails sent to them...:

Plasma cutting is a DCSP process, the electrode is negative and the work clamp ("ground clamp") is positve. It is a CC process, like stick/tig and not CV like MIG/FCAW.

The open circuit voltages for the most part determine metal pierce capacity (possibly because of a steeper curve?). Also, machines with higher OCVs feel better to me as the operator. The common range is 250-280(300) and limited to
the 280/300vDC as an absolute maximum. (safety)

In ideal conditions (arc length, air pressure...), the arc voltage is
100v. I don't remember a machine rated at anything different than 100v.

All plasma torches have three basic parts, an electrode, a constricting nozzle (tip), and a shielding gas nozzle (shield cup). Some torches have a start cartridge (spring loaded device which shorts the electrode to the tip and retracts when air flow is present), and I will discuss what exactly those are for later. All plasma torches use a negative electrode (DCSP, - ), current limited positive tip (+), and a positive work piece (+).

Inside the torch, an arc is initiated between the electrode and constriction nozzle by a HF HV (high frequency high voltage) generator (similar to a non-scratch-start TIG welder). Once the HF HV current establishes the ionization process, a higher current flows from the electrode to the constriction nozzle due to the constriction nozzle connecting to positive through a current limiting resistor. This current limited function serves two purposes, it keeps the potential between the electrode and the work higher than the potential from the electrode to the constriction nozzle, and it reduces wear on the constriction nozzle from these starts.

Another common method of starting the ionization process is by using a start cartridge or some other form of lift-arctechnology. With the torch inactive, the start cartridge shorts the electrode to the constriction nozzle. This could seem like a problem, because the electrode is grounded and the tip positive potential, but remember there is a current limiting resistor in the path of the tip to positive connection. The second that sufficient air flow/pressure is present, the start cartridge lifts off of the tip and draws an arc (similar to scratch start TIG or stick welding). This resistor prevents excessive heating of the tip and wear on the internal torch components.

After the pilot arc has been initiated by the low current arc within the torch ionized gas from the pilot arc blows through the tip to the workpiece. This causes a low resistance path to ground (there is no current limiting resistor on the work clamp).To reduce heating on the tip, the pilot arc (current limited connection to positive and/or HF HV) may be turned off once this main arc ignites.

So there... :P And I thought people would go crazy with the chain size. Plasma is boreing. This 6.5lbs a foot chain is what excites me!!! :cool:

Don't all watch it at once. :P

Power Output Test (http://media.diywelder.com/alttest500k.wmv)

Might not be plasma, but its what an alternator, 10hp of electric motor, and two hair dryers sound like in my basement. :eek: :D :cool:

Originally posted by 69travelall
800:
Torch, 1.25" steel, 53" tires, sprockets, big chain... :D



I got it now.:D

I can't wait to see this in action.

I can't resist.

Tire Grooving (http://media.diywelder.com/tiregrooving300k.wmv)

If you all watch it at once, it will take a real long time to buffer. save it. :P

I want to CNC cut this from T1 and see if it helps my grooving capacity (see above posts in this topic).

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/110703-ultimatetiregroover2.jpg

Now, THIS is fun. :D

Originally posted by 69travelall
So there... :P And I thought people would go crazy with the chain size. Plasma is boreing. This 6.5lbs a foot chain is what excites me!!! :cool:
Thanks for the run down.... plasma may be boring but the idea of a low buck, homebrew plasma cutter that doesn't empty my wallet excites me!! :woody:

I'd probably make one once you get yours done and post up the how to.... that is, if you post up the how to.

It still wouldn't be too cheap. The torch runs $270-299, and even a machinist would go mad trying to duplicate one.

But in the end you'd get a plasma cutter without too much broom stick. ;)

Hair dryer is necessary too. :) I don't see a hair dryer, I see an air cooled 15000watt ~10 ohm resistor. :cool:

Originally posted by 69travelall
I can't resist.

Tire Grooving (http://www.cmosxray.com/tiregrooving300k.wmv)

If you all watch it at once, it will take a real long time to buffer. save it. :P

I want to CNC cut this from T1 and see if it helps my grooving capacity (see above posts in this topic).

http://diywelder.com/media/images/110703-ultimatetiregroover2.jpg

Now, THIS is fun. :D


Bwahahah thats a fawking ripper :laughing: :laughing:

dam next time i'm in the Yukon (god knows when) i'll let ya know

well ill take a wild guess at what the chain and all is for. YOur gonna runa drive gear off the d44's and turna sproket on the wheels. Thus more gear reduction. Basicly like the old chain driven trucks

Yep. I felt like I got ripped off with that chain. 10 feet?!? There aren't enough links! I counted, there were...stuff is just too big! That stuff is $25.20 per foot. I'm not quite sure I'll be able to snap it, needing some 125,000ft lbs of torque at the wheel, but its possible that I can warp some of the bushings.

We shall see...I only have a 198. ;)

This is 80 pitch:
http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/051003_4158.JPG

This is 160 pitch!!!!:
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112603-biggerchain_5775.jpg

And because this post really isn't that great, here is some cool/funny stuff. ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/062903-6x6.jpeg


This guy is canadian like chief. :D :cool:
http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat08.JPG

The torch runs $270-299, and even a machinist would go mad trying to duplicate one

That almost sounds like a challange :flipoff2:

Sure, if you made one...that would be the coolest thing to me. :D

But it would take more than $300 in time, thats for sure. ;)

Something like this for the 160 pitch chain.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/111603-small_5561.JPG

Originally posted by 69travelall
This guy is canadian like chief. :D :cool:
http://www.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat08.JPG
Is that Redd Green? Used to love to watch that show but I can't find it on any of the cable channels anymore.

Hmmmm......

69travelall=http://www.ozcraft.com/scifidu/future/cast_doc.jpg ?


Cool work, good luck.

Originally posted by TORC

Is that Redd Green? Used to love to watch that show but I can't find it on any of the cable channels anymore.

Yep. I wrote their production company and told them I was planning to produce an Alaskan buggy offroad video. They said I could use some segments from Red Green. Even sent them on a giant tape. :cool: :eek:

Brook-bgreen guy- has an awsome rig and will be in the thing.

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/060203-newdvolddv_4253.JPG

I'm gonna get a red star for that Doc photo to be my avatar. ;)

Back to scout stuff...I'm planning a method to move my scout through 15" of packed snow worthy of Red Green's approval.

Originally posted by 69travelall


This guy is canadian like chief. :D :cool:
http://www.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat08.JPG


my idle

You got it.

That guy is cool. Even if all of the alaskan buggy stuff is horrible it will be worth it for the redgreen segments. ;)

My future wedding limo:

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg01-finished-drivingaway.JPG

:cool:

Originally posted by 69travelall
Maybe a good Mud and snow version? (not your kind of mud)
http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/080603-niceone_4796.JPG
Looks like you've got the start of a Krawler there...

Originally posted by 90WAG
Hmmmm......

69travelall=http://www.ozcraft.com/scifidu/future/cast_doc.jpg ?


Cool work, good luck.


ditto

they must be like brothers or somthing :eek:

:eek: :eek: :eek:

Where to start....

1) Interesting in a horrific, gross curiosity kind of way

2) Glad your not my neighbor and even more glad working in AK is in my past

3) Love the subtle clues throughout this thread
-scary blockage that goes from dunnage to wheels to stumps
-testing high output electrical voodoo in the basement...in socks!
-fabbing a mud buggy chain drive on an easter bunny table cloth

4) Clear demonstration of the ability to do things the hardest AND most booty fab way possible.
-pulling an axle though the leaf spring when pulling two bolts would have let them fall out
-for what you spent in time making the hair dryer equipped home inferno kit you could have worked at Burger King and bought a real plasma cutter and maybe even met a girl

5) You appear to be having fun and have some talent (although misguided) so keep at it and hopefully something good will come out of all of this craziness.

6) At least you posted this in the Binder forum so you are amongst like minded people:flipoff2:

Thankyou. :)

Would it make it better or worse if I said that I all ready owned a plasma cutter? ;)

You hit it on the head, its about having fun. :cool:

Beadlocks are under construction.

Inner: (welded to drum)
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112803-innerring.jpg

Middle: (free)
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112803-middlering.jpg

Outer: (free)
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112803-outerring.jpg

I added 8 extra bolts that clamp the inner and middle ring together to keep this:
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112703-sketchofbeadlockside.jpg

from doing this:
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112903-fearofmiddlering.jpg

Cost:
$123.20 for 4x8' 1/4" plate
$21 for 13"x72.25" 10ga
$22.30 for 100 1/2x3"gd8/gd8 washer/gd8 nylock nut combos

As opposed to a 24" farm blank wheel for $150 that would require flex killing pressures for my 12 ply tire. ;) :eek:

(crazy guy image limit reached I guess...continues)

Wanna see an 8x4 sheet of 1/4 steel disappear?

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/112703-planningfirstsheet.jpg

We'll see how it goes I guess...

so what other projects do you have going on?

I'm stalled with work on polishing off the alternator plasma cutter because my CNC machine is disabled and I can't cut the enclosure pieces. I also only have one torch, so you see that problem. :)

I'm also working to get a semester of work done for a COMMunication class... And a final written for a Technology class. :mad:

Remember that big looking gas torch? I'm modifying my gantry arm so that it can support such a big load. (big funny looking torch is heavy). I will need this torch to cut the sprockets out of 1.125" steel plate. :cool:

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/113003-plasmatable_5736.jpg

Now, I will hibernate until my school work is done and the table is upgraded. I don't want my post deleted or moved to chit chat. So... ;)

Can't cut bead lock pieces until the stupid thing is finished either. :rolleyes:

Anyway, to keep some topic here, the scout will hopefully remain stock (198+T18+D20+D44/3.73) and stil be able to turn those tires well with all of the modifications.

I am planning some sort of trailer ball link suspension (the trailer hitch + panhard) because the links need to be hard welded and are a very important structural piece for the axles. Loosing one control arm could self distruct the axle at 5mph in a parking lot. I figure with the trailer ball setup the worst would be loosing a few brake lines, drive shaft, people, etc. But not the axle. :D

More on suspension, I want to try a buggy leaf spring setup like the old carriages (two leaf springs on top of each other). I've been reading a ton of pirate stuff, looked at a ton of farm equipment, watched plenty of red green, and am now applying it all to my current build rig. :rolleyes: :cool:

As far as cost goes, the chains are about $250 per corner, the small drive sprockets will be free because I found some 1.125" steel that someone didn't want, the wheel sprockets will be made from 1/4 and 1/2" steel plate, approximate cost for 4 wheel sprockets...$300.

Hopefully I will finish within a $1500-2k range and have a strong setup. I figure, 2k in the axles is 2k total into the scout. And thats pretty good considering what some people can loose into their rig. :D

198? is that a typo or is it a over-bored 196?

I see two Things possible here.

1. Redd Green is actually your dad and you want to show him up:)

2. The movie A Beautifull Mind was based on you:p

No seriously this is some funny shit, but i can see you are having fun and you are right. Thats what it is all about. The concept of....I bet i could do this if i did....yada yada has made some of the most cool things, a few of witch have made it into the Crawling world on a regular basis. So keep up the experiments and let us know on the progress.
That all said i do know after 4 summers in alaska and 3-4 buddies living in Alaska that the cold up there does something to the human mind. I have seen alot of cheap working homebrew stuff come from Alaska.

Have fun, but be safe.

Dude how is it you can balance all these projects and still have time to cook a batch of fresh meth? Can we say ADHD. I dont mean to critisize but man you are all over the place. So are you putting the running gear from the van under the 1/2 scout? I was just up there last week and can honestly say I am glad I didnt share a road with any of those projects. Good luck thought, just dont burn your place down.:flipoff2:

Originally posted by wheelinjp
Dude how is it you can balance all these projects and still have time to cook a batch of fresh meth? Can we say ADHD. I dont mean to critisize but man you are all over the place. So are you putting the running gear from the van under the 1/2 scout? I was just up there last week and can honestly say I am glad I didnt share a road with any of those projects. Good luck thought, just dont burn your place down.:flipoff2:


you have no clue :rolleyes:

Originally posted by grant-69travelall
http://www.diywelder.com/images/offroad/060203-newdvolddv_4253.JPG

Nice 60 minute Digi-Beta...

I prefer the 30s... (well, 32s technically);)

http://thisdysfunctional.org/kids/album77/DCP_0001.sized.jpg

Originally posted by grant-69travelall


http://diywelder.com/media/images/113003-plasmatable_5736.jpg


Shower curtains for stopping sparks from flying??

SHOWER CURTAINS?!????





I mighta just found a new idol. :lol:

The plasma cutting process oxidizes the metal further than oxy-fuel. The sparks are not as hot. Hot enough to melt hair, but not hot enough to burn a screen or hand.

Plus, if the tips aren't cutting downward on the table, something is seriously wrong. :)

The shower curtains contain the dust so that it can be sucked out. The shop would be dark orange if I took them down.

speachless.

PLEASE do not stop!

Now tell us about the projects that were not as good. I'm not laughing at you, I am just amazed someone has the time and energy to bring these ideas so far!

Merv

im riveted

Originally posted by grant-69travelall
I've been reading a ton of pirate stuff, looked at a ton of farm equipment, watched plenty of red green, and am now applying it all to my current build rig.

If this doesn't summarize everything that is cool about this board, I don't know what does. :D

Keep up the "interesting" work; it is truly inspiring.

Can I ask how much the 33SI alternator cost ya?

This is a very cool thread, MORE!

Play that banjo boy.........http://www.destgulch.com/images/deliv01.jpg

:flipoff2:

69travelall...is that a sexual thing boy? http://imagecache2.allposters.com/images/71/039_29162.jpg :flipoff2:

Headline News:
-Downpayment for house drained the playtime fund. so it will be rcokwells instead of bootyfab portals. I figure onboard stick/mig/tig/plasma will be enough uniqueness factor. :P

69travelall was the only thing I could think of last spring. Its the year of my travelall. I changed my name to add grant, because I want to phase out that name. But now the board won't let me change it again. :( Find pictures of it by searching the binder forum.

What is this? No replies for a week. I mention something in general and everyone is adding filler to my build page. :p

Its okay. Sometimes I'm feeling tired, then someone shows a picture of "Doc" from back to the future... :cool: :D :confused: :rolleyes: :emb4: :eek: :( :D

i would send small monetary contributions to see the booty fab portals:D

Thanks for the offer. :) Some day when I've accumulated more machining tools I'll take a stab at it.

Brook set me back on friday. :P Told me not to waste my time by doing anything without a doubler.

I got to do some serious plowing too. There is a section of road about 200 feet long that I never plow. So it had a winters worth of accumulation. The only problem is that the only place to put the snow is at the end of the road (I have to block access to my neighbor's property).

I had to do the first swipe with the plow 6 inches off the ground because of all the ice. When I got to the bottom of the steep hill my lack of front snow chains killed me. The 1000lbs scout 304 and cantilevered plow, and the fact that I'm on a steep grade didn't help my rear wheel weight. I was able to backup through snow over the top of my rear tires, do a complete turn, and drive straight up. :)

The berm at the bottom of the hill is taller than I am and the berm on the sides is about 4 feet. There is no way a pickup would have made it. This is the road my mom rolled her awd subaru on in the 80s. :)

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/121403-plowpath_5834.JPG
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/121403-bigscoutplow_5837.jpg
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/121403-scoutpilebig_5838.jpg

Then I shoveled my way over to the 345+727+D20+frame. I had forgotten how many parts were liberated from the pile to keep the plow scout putting. :(

Plus, there is no room in there to chain drive double the 20, and I'm not going to do the cold duck D20 stacking thing.

So I'm going to focus my time on the rims and getting the van to daily driver status (axle, steering box, suspension mount), getting the 24x17 rims made, and then might consider tubing out the travelall. Its got a 345+727+divorced 202 (bigger slightly stronger than the 205). I could throw my 2wd 465 in front of the transfer case and be done.

I think I could buy another scout for half the cost of parts to make the scout frame pile run.


SOMETHING will be done by spring...promised phill and brook that yesterday. If it has peddle power, fine. but something! ;) :D

I also assum that I will put a lot of people out of their misery. If I chopped up the body and threw on tractor tires you could rest soundly that this travelall does not exist anymore. :D

http://diywelder.com/images/travelall/before1.jpg
http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/travelall-snowangle.JPG

What do you think? :cool: :eek: :D ;) :p

I think you now have plenty of room for a second rear axle back there.

Originally posted by mrutledge
I think you now have plenty of room for a second rear axle back there.

I was thinking enough room for some 24-36" long, 20" wide tracks. :lol: what better to plow with?

Originally posted by grant-69travelall

http://diywelder.com/media/images/121403-scoutpilebig_5838.jpg





holly crap

thats must be the fastest rusing scout Iv seen, shit at the begining of this post you had at least a front end :eek:

I never said this wouldn't be a bumpy ride. :D Not doing the travelall, going to try the 4 cyl 196...I just think I will go power hungry stuck in mud with 50" tires. :(

Okay, I found it! One of the biggest reasons I didn't want to do either scout is because of the married D20. I don't have enough room for any big doubler. Don't forget that I have to shove my front axle out in front of my engine or else have a 35" frame height. :shock: So the rear drive shaft is going to be short.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/121503-looking1_5840.JPG
I was looking REAL hard for the NPwhatever that brook traded me for a NP205. First I stabbed everywhere in the yard with a shovel like I was looking for an avalanche victim listening for a plink and uncovered all of the palets. No go. I did find some interesting things. :)
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/121503-looking2_5841.JPG
Then I considered the possibility taht I clipped it with the plow (I scraped right by that transmission). So I shoveled a 5x5x5 cube of snow, the only snow from the area of the transmission. The only thing I found was the back seat metal area from the scout. I knew before I started that I would catch that one. :D
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/121503-foundit_5843.JPG
Then I went back to where I'd started over by the green house (close to the scout) and started stabbing with the shovel (hadn't stabbed there yet). I didn't see it the first time because it was burried in a chunk of ice from melting snow on the roof.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/121503-liberationtool_5844.JPG
I finally liberated it with the help of a 10lb hammer! I was too tired to move it, after shoveling more than anyone should ever have to...so I left it there.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/121503-NPwhatever_4756.JPG
Here it is, last summer. The missing yoke is the exact same coarse splined yoke used on the other sides. I'll swap the outputs with 1410s and put a remaining one on the input. The missing shaft is the input, the one below is for a front axle, and the two rear are for two rear axles. The options are High/Low and 6x6/6x4 (front axle disconnect). Written on the side is something like "Ratio: 1.96:1". might have been 98.

I would like to clock it upside down so that I don't have to cut up my D20 on the scout, but I don't know if the shift rail things would like oil pressure on them. An option would be to just clock it down a little (compared to the old one). By looking at it it looks like it normally hung down a little.

Originally posted by grant-69travelall


I would like to clock it upside down so that I don't have to cut up my D20 on the scout, but I don't know if the shift rail things would like oil pressure on them.

if the seals are good and the reails arnt pited it should be fine

you should come up with a divice that can melt all thesnow in your yeard

Originally posted by grant-69travelall
I never said this wouldn't be a bumpy ride. :D Not doing the travelall, going to try the 4 cyl 196...I just think I will go power hungry stuck in mud with 50" tires. :(

Okay, I found it! One of the biggest reasons I didn't want to do either scout is because of the married D20. I don't have enough room for any big doubler. Don't forget that I have to shove my front axle out in front of my engine or else have a 35" frame height. :shock: So the rear drive shaft is going to be short.
http://diywelder.com/media/images/121503-looking1_5840.JPG
I was looking REAL hard for the NPwhatever that brook traded me for a NP205. First I stabbed everywhere in the yard with a shovel like I was looking for an avalanche victim listening for a plink and uncovered all of the palets. No go. I did find some interesting things. :)
http://diywelder.com/media/images/121503-looking2_5841.JPG
Then I considered the possibility taht I clipped it with the plow (I scraped right by that transmission). So I shoveled a 5x5x5 cube of snow, the only snow from the area of the transmission. The only thing I found was the back seat metal area from the scout. I knew before I started that I would catch that one. :D
http://diywelder.com/media/images/121503-foundit_5843.JPG
Then I went back to where I'd started over by the green house (close to the scout) and started stabbing with the shovel (hadn't stabbed there yet). I didn't see it the first time because it was burried in a chunk of ice from melting snow on the roof.
http://diywelder.com/media/images/121503-liberationtool_5844.JPG
I finally liberated it with the help of a 10lb hammer! I was too tired to move it, after shoveling more than anyone should ever have to...so I left it there.
http://diywelder.com/media/images/121503-NPwhatever_4756.JPG
Here it is, last summer. The missing yoke is the exact same coarse splined yoke used on the other sides. I'll swap the outputs with 1410s and put a remaining one on the input. The missing shaft is the input, the one below is for a front axle, and the two rear are for two rear axles. The options are High/Low and 6x6/6x4 (front axle disconnect). Written on the side is something like "Ratio: 1.96:1". might have been 98.

I would like to clock it upside down so that I don't have to cut up my D20 on the scout, but I don't know if the shift rail things would like oil pressure on them. An option would be to just clock it down a little (compared to the old one). By looking at it it looks like it normally hung down a little.

Now THAT is what cracks me up the most!

"I just know I got sum sorta transfer case out dher under dat dem dher snow... honey!? wheres my snow shovel!?" :lol: :p

I love this thread!

Keep the pics coming.
I have a cousin in Big Lake.
Been homesteading since 1978.

Got running water and indoor bathrooms in 1994.

Drains his oil everynight and keeps in near the stove.
Truck starts every morning.

Gotta love the winters in Alaska;)

I gave you 4 out of 5 stars...funny shit...I like how the comments went from "Bootylicious" to "how the fawk'd he do that?????"

you missed the 5th star because you bagged the homebrew chain-drive... good stuff

BTTT
hahahahaha, that just knocked an hour out of my work day. Keep it comin'. :D

this thread kicks ass

if you ever finish anything i promise to nominate you for the nobel prize :D

Damn, I just give up on outside projects when there's snow. Way to go :D

I can't believe I missed this piece of forum history/insanity.

Amazing! :p

Originally posted by grant-69travelall
I also assum that I will put a lot of people out of their misery. If I chopped up the body and threw on tractor tires you could rest soundly that this travelall does not exist anymore. :D

http://diywelder.com/images/travelall/before1.jpg
http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/travelall-snowangle.JPG

What do you think? :cool: :eek: :D ;) :p

Move that axle back a foot or so, change the oil pan out for a SII or 74/75 truck rear-sump setup (along with the pump, of course) and then shove that front axle forward some..

Sawzall the front, and then go find some big tahrs.

amazing read loved every minute of it but a line in you sig caught my attention

http://www.interestingprojects.com/cruisemissile/

holy shit, are you seriously gonna build a missle in , "Compact size, small enough to be transported inconspicuously and launched from a regular pickup truck. "

Jesus christ, I dont think you need a missle. Damn great ideas, but lets keep them of the non lethal variety. Im sure it can be done, it obvioulsy can cause it exists, after watching your video in the basement with your homemade plasma cutter I cant help but think of a missle being close to that invention. Your basement reminds me of the burbs.

that missile site looked like it was run by some guy in new zealand, i don't think it's the same guy, unless he invented some sort of portal between AK and NZ using hairdryers, which i wouldn't rule out just yet

I've been watching this post since it started and I have alot of the same ideas. For example, I'm putting Rockwell axles under my scout right now and as for the devoriced 20 and 205 combo, I took it one step further by nocking the gears and shaft out of the drop side. I had planed to put the 20 on a band saw to remove the excess housing and weld a plate up where I cut. A shifter would be left to go from high range to low range. Sence the housing is out of the way you can clock the 205 flat.
That was my plan but I'm going to use chevy so I'm going to use the gear reduction of a 203, cut the main shaft, and put a yoke on it for a doubler.
I hope the info helps and keep on working.

P.S. Stay away from missiles!!!

Originally posted by fatconnors
that missile site looked like it was run by some guy in new zealand, i don't think it's the same guy, unless he invented some sort of portal between AK and NZ using hairdryers, which i wouldn't rule out just yet


DEWD....DEWD....DEWD....

See grant-69travelall is the originator of the thread....kay?

In his SIG...which stands for signature...there is an HTTP:// link to the sight that actually contains the HTML code for said "home made cruise missle". Within this HTML mark up is the dudes name Simpson or something...,ay

He is the actual creator of the LCCM article that created the buzz...

I "think"...totally un-educated guess here...that grant-69travelall put it in his SIG because he finds it interesting...


Newbs:rolleyes:

Merry fucking X-mas

I hope that I have not taken away from the 5 star rating...

First post from me in a week or so, looks like this thing topic would just go on forever. I've got some pretty cool stuff to post up on wednesday, so hold on. Funny how from my point of view all this stuff is normal. You guys saying all the stuff need to either start collecting junk and/or move away from a planning/zoneing hot spot. :)

I'm just going to get the axle on the scout first, then figure out where drive shafts go. Before I do that i need at least two rims. Everything is sooo close. Since I last plowed to the 196 scout we've had about 25" of snow. So I'll get some pose shots of the 304/T18 scout pushing a 5 foot pile of snow. :)

I made these a week or so ago. Doing a test fit. :D

Not doing the travelall, but the picture is cool. All to scale, travelall wheel base is about 150" :eek:

Thats a 38" leaning on the door.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/121403-tavelallon52s_3348.JPG

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/122303-scoutmockup_4547.jpg

I KNOW that I can fit the tire on the scout just like that. I'm going to push it forward to miss the cab and oil pan. I want to see if I can stuff it ~5 inches up. Might have to move the radiator. The problem with rockwells is that engine mounts, oil filters, and radiators get in the way... :( :mad:

guess i won't win the smartest guy on the internet contest.
:rolleyes: at least you have biggest FAGGOT locked down.

Originally posted by Harvester of Sorrow

Newbs:rolleyes:
Merry fucking X-mas
I hope that I have not taken away from the 5 star rating...

meathead.

Originally posted by fatconnors
guess i won't win the smartest guy on the internet contest.
:rolleyes: at least you have biggest FAGGOT locked down.



meathead.

looks like someone got their feelings hurt. and thats the LAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMEST comeback ever. :rolleyes: :flipoff2:

this thread is great btw :D how exactly are you determining scale in the 2nd pic? :confused:

I pasted a 52" on top of a 38". So I knew how high the 38" was.

Did a lot today.

My G2 stopped taking pictures last night. Sometimes it would turn on for a few seconds, and then turn off. That made me really mad. This was a 1k camera, and still 2 years later goes for $400+ on ebay. I can turn the little dial to picture view mode and see pictures, but not picture take mode.

:mad:

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/122703-camerafront_H1691.JPG

So I rip the thing open. I tried to fix the switch by bending the tongs down harder, no go. Tried hot wireing a toggle switch, no go. The switch isn't broken, one of the transistors is!!! When I remove the top half of the camera (remove entire assembly and the interconnection connector) the camera immediately turns on into a default picture taking mode. So I KNOW that SOMEHOW I will get the camera to take pictures again, just got to get the top half on..since the picture take button is on the top.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/122703-guts2_H1693.JPG

So I trace the connections on the switch to the appropiate transistors, and start removing them. The first one I remove happened to fix it. This might be the auto-off transistor..which makes sense, because lately the camera has been "half" way turning itself off when left. It would turn off the LCD but never actually shut down the entire camera like it should.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/122703-cameragutshaingout_H1690.JPG

Well, what do you know? The entire camera works fine now! I can turn it off, picture take mode, and picture view mode@! All without that little piece of junk!

Now next on the list of hate is my GL1, which I dumped $1600 on. The aperature is stuck in the 5 range and the auto focus doesn't work. Manual focus and ND feature work, so hopefully I can figure that one out too.. :mad:

Image limit... :eek:

I'm lucky my uncle was here, I was able to take pictures of the camera with his. I just got a drill press yesterday and would rather be out in the garage putting my CNC table back together. But instead I'm fixing my camera (to take pictures of the plasma table). Man, nothing wrong with his camear or anything..but I'll be glad to have my 4 mega pixels back!!! :p:

Why do they put junk in the camera that isn't needed? I just cycled my camera through all its features. Everything works. Canon is GAY. Points of failure are GAY.

Somehow I put the thing together and had one cosmetic screw left over. Can't find its hole. Oh well...

When I ask if you can solder, I mean solder... :D

There are W89 and 68M transistors out there... These people are insane..wait, I am one of them. makes sense.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/122703-thingsleftover_6004.JPG

And to think I'm afraid of rebuilding an auto tranny... ;)

I also did a lot of work on the CNC plasma cutter. I can't wait to get some 24" rims made!!! :D I couldn't work on the CNC table until I got the camera fixed, so today's build time was limited. :rolleyes:

Well, this is the first action the CNC thing has received in over a month. Feels good...

This junk is $7 per foot. :mad:

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/122803-routededge_6018.JPG
Ran the 45* roter bit along the edge. Then ran the 60* bit on both sides to take a little more off.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/122803-channelconfiguration_6012.JPG
This is the idea. This thing is TOUGH! MUCH tougher than any under 50k plasma system out there.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/122803-railsmountedfirsttime_6030.JPG
Rails drilled straight within .001"
Rails parallel within .0005
Plasma stream, +-.020. :P

Drill Press! Yeah! Just got one! $219 brand new from grainger, $105 UAA discount being a student. :D

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/122803-holesforrail_6029.JPG
Too bad I had to take them all out again. :(

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/122803-taptherack_6036.JPG
Tap the rack. No broken taps.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/122803-mountrackfirsttime_6037.JPG

Rack mounted. Next the bearing blocks. Then final mounting of the rack, then rails. THEN 24" RIMS!!!!

My stupid camera works better now without that transistor. :cool:

Originally posted by grant-69travelall
Canon is GAY.:rolleyes:

Nothin wrong with Canon. My 25 year old AT-1 still works perfectly.:D

Imma gonna get me one o dem Canon D-1s soonest.:D

A scout is only SLIGHTLY less tech than these shots....
you have the major brass ones to tear into something like this..

Originally posted by grant-69travelall

http://diywelder.com/media/images/122703-camerafront_H1691.JPG

http://diywelder.com/media/images/122703-guts2_H1693.JPG

:eek:

This thread is great! And it just keeps going and going.

So Grant, are you MacGyver's dad?

Simon

I hope hes not his dad, hell, Grants not 20 yet I dont think. :p

The teleportation device that I use to get to New Zealand also allows me to travel back in time. :P

I'm going outside now!!! :)

Originally posted by grant-69travelall
The teleportation device that I use to get to New Zealand also allows me to travel back in time. :P

I'm going outside now!!! :)

Well grant at least YOU have a sense of humor... Maybe If I rudely explained your SIG to the guy it would have made him feel better...

While you are back there will you help me figure out how to harness lightning bolts using a reverse wound Van De Graf generator?

I have some theories pertaining to said device that I never had a chance to prove or disprove...

I AM 20... :) 4 months or so older than Station.

Every time I post, I try to actually add something without annoying all of the IH peopel. Well, trust me guys. This will all get on topic VERY quickly when I get to my rims. :)

I don't know any thing about the myths behind tesla, but I believe most of them. Some things just make too much sense to be false. I also think (and hope) that the US government has some cool alien stuff that they will tell us about soon.

Ghetto:
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/123003-oldbearingmount_6042.JPG

Scared the ghetto out of it:
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/123003-onlyghetto_6056.JPG

Ghetto method of creating aluminum flat bar stock. :TU:
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/123003-skillsaw_6038.JPG

More tapping...but no welds! This pinion has been welded to a shaft 3 times. :)
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/123003-tapthepinion_6050.JPG

Originally posted by grant-69travelall
[B]This will all get on topic VERY quickly when I get to my rims. :)


Hurry up. :) Great stuff.

Jeebus.... way too hungover to read this stuff now.

BTT.... wheres the rest of the story?

Rest assured tonight that I will post something when the story continues. The International crew here (IMO) has been great at tolerating a chain of posts deviating WAY off topic and staying at the top for a long time. :D

I am in the process of cutting out rims and will post when I start to assemble the first one.

I think the IH people are just stoked people are reading a thier forum.

Originally posted by BigEdShanks
I think the IH people are just stoked people are reading a thier forum.


You wanna fight bitch

I think the IH people are just stoked people are reading a thier forum.
Yeah, I don't even understand that last one. :confused:

Originally posted by grant-69travelall

Yeah, I don't even understand that last one. :confused:

i do, i've never even been here before:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by desertPOS


i do, i've never even been here before:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

It's all right I never go to the Toy forum :rolleyes:

dude, first off, thanks for making the last hour of "work" go by so quick. LOL. This thread is awesome :flipoff2:
keep it comming man! I'm going to have to get my brother in law who goes to UAA to check your creations out! LOL :flipoff2:

Originally posted by jdjanda


It's all right I never go to the Toy forum :rolleyes:

good, we have enough people....

Quick someone give this guy a cookie:flipoff2:

If the toy forum is so much better, I guess you should quit posting in this one.

Everybody knows toys are for boys!

How many people just questioned their own abilities and purpose in life?

I've never been so baffled. And to think, you hoseheads can still take it in stride and argue about brand loyalty.

So Grant, a few personal questions, if you don't mind. Feel free to ignore or indulge my morbid curiosities:

1. Do you sleep like normal humans?
2. When you complete your time machine will you go
back to the early eighties to find out what the hell happened to
your parents to affect your genetic code so deeply?

Ah hell, I've scared myself too much to ask any more. Twilight Zone meets Jackass meets Bill Nye meets Sid and Marty Croft meets Junkyard Wars...

How many tires did you scar up with the circular saw before it started smelling pretty and made you want to take a nap in a neighboring snowbank?

Originally posted by stocker75
How many people just questioned their own abilities and purpose in life?

I've never been so baffled. And to think, you hoseheads can still take it in stride and argue about brand loyalty.



Hey DAN no one asked you to come to our sandbox. Go back and piss in your own sandbox. We are perfectly continent throwing sand at each other without your help.

BTW I don't think there is anymore brand loyalty here then in any other section. So STFU

Originally posted by stocker75
How many people just questioned their own abilities and purpose in life?

I've never been so baffled. And to think, you hoseheads can still take it in stride and argue about brand loyalty.

So Grant, a few personal questions, if you don't mind. Feel free to ignore or indulge my morbid curiosities:

1. Do you sleep like normal humans?
2. When you complete your time machine will you go
back to the early eighties to find out what the hell happened to
your parents to affect your genetic code so deeply?

Ah hell, I've scared myself too much to ask any more. Twilight Zone meets Jackass meets Bill Nye meets Sid and Marty Croft meets Junkyard Wars...

How many tires did you scar up with the circular saw before it started smelling pretty and made you want to take a nap in a neighboring snowbank?


STFU & GFY.

Yes. It took me about 6 months to even get in my sister's blazer. I'm sorry that you have to deal with that toy. :P

I've tried to say this friendly before. Please wait until I actually have something new to add to say "your crazy", etc. You're not going to do anything but tick off IH forum members. While I do appreatiate it in some ways, having a topic with two weeks of chit-chat constantly comming to the top of the IH forum has to be wearing thin on the patients of some.

If you want to stay updated on crazy grant things, then visit my home-forum where I came from... http://www.akfabshop.com Not mine, but I do have my own forum. ;)

Before I go, let me say I don't see anything different with what I do. If I have an idea, I try it. No matter what people say/think. Doing otherwise would make me completely lazy or of high school mentality. I may not finish, or sometimes get past the planning stage...sometimes in planning you find out how much some ideas can cost! :)

Sleeping 8-9 hours a day, owning at least 1 (I've got 5) IH trucks, and listening to christian hit/pop music will help you become more like me. I have no idea why you'd want that. Do you know how hard it is to think "Hey, I wonder how a skill saw would groove a tire" at 10AM knowing you wouldn't be home for 7.5 hours?

Now, I will have something this weekend. I just upgraded the computer that runs the laptop. I have a series of good pictures about that. I also upgraded the motor wireing and added some new stepper motor controllers. Adding a laser pointer to the gantry arm. Then I will have pictures of the rim assembly. Still not completely 100% IH on the rims, but it will the the closest thing to topic in the past month from this thread. :P

I'm not going to post again until I have some rims made. :p

Now, the first few post "chunks" might not be IH, but I get pretty close at the end!

What is this? Is grant actually making progress on something reasonable and not designing a 32 wheel scout? Yes...I'm afraid I am. :p: :D

Dude...12 ply tires are hard. I don't think I want/can/easily spread the tire enough to fit that ring in. I also don't want to risk damaging the tire either.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-05ringdoesntliketofit_6263.jpg

Its not a split rim, its a split ring. :D I decided to make the split right next to the bad holes that I enlarged/fixed by hand. I tell you, CNC cutting will really raise your expectations. ;)
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-06poopeyholessplitring_6264.jpg

Now its easy to get in there. ;)
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-07notsplitrimitsasplitring_6265.jpg

Well, I bought the right size bolts...
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-08testringfit_6271.jpg

I stackd all the rings I had together to:
-get past the unthreaded part of the 1/2" bolts
-to hold the ring quarters as flat as possible during welding (welding the quarters together and to the drum)
-to find 4 quarters for the next set that are perfect
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-09-5beforestickwelding_6284.jpg

I have now found out that I only bought 25 bolts and 50 washers/nuts. Fastener and fire tomorow, I'm going to get some big and some small bolts. I need 300 more. :( 80 bolts per tire...
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-09fastenersavailable_6276.jpg

Stick welded, because I can. :P 175A AC (yes, AC stick welding) with 5/32 (I think) 7018. I didn't go all the way to the end. It would be in the way of the drum. You'll see..
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-10stickweldbaby_6287.jpg

Used two large C clamp vice grips and some bar size channel to make a spreader/compressor. :D General mechanical wrote my name on it. Its not like I run around the garge writing my name on stuff. ;)
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-11tackweldit_6292.jpg

Oh yeah..
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-12drumfitfromtop_6294.jpg

Oh yeah #2.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-13viewfromback_6298.jpg

Did you think that you'd ever see rims this far? ;)

I bought 200 sets of bolt/nut/washers. Thats enough for 2.5 rims, and it cost $143, WITH a university discount. This box has got to be over 50lbs.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011404-01boxofbolts_6302.jpg

I welded up the second ring.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011404-02weldedsecondinnerring_6306.jpg

I was very tempted to use a stock center, because it fit pretty good. :) But that wouldn't be good, and I'd have to flip my front hubs in.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011404-03tempting_6312.jpg

Ten minutes after designing the center its cut out. .75" to spare on all sides, after cutting out everything else. :) I did cut the OD too small by about .25". Next time it will be bigger.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011404-04cuttingcenter_6314.jpg

Now for a game. Can anyone guess why there is always a paint stick near the plasma torch? :)

I suspended the center using the bar channel, then welded the second inner ring on.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011404-06weldingsecondringoncentersuspended_6325.jpg

I dropped it as-is into a tire
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011404-07droppedin_6326.jpg

Either deuce rims are small or my tire is BIG. :D
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011404-08gicenterwithrimfromback_6332.jpg

(the center is just floating around in there)

These two things added together..
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011404-05centerandgirim_6320.jpg

Give you this:
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011404-09centerplusgi_6319.jpg

Plans:
-weld inside of inner rings to drum if possible
-center the center as good as possible, adjust the backspacing PERFECTLY
-cut the 11.75-12" flat circle out of the GI rim and adjust it PERFECTLY to balance the rim.

Mount tire and tube, inflate to 2-3psi, and we're off! ;) Inflation for a 7600lb load is 23PSI, 3000lbs was 12lbs. I wish I could put a vaccume in this thing..maybe then I would get flex. ;)

What do you guys think? I'm making this stuff up as I go. I've never heard of anything like this before...is that a good or bad thing?

Talk about major blingage. My rim mounted to the rockwell makes the thing look like a D44.

Because of my booty inner ring, I've got to somehow get a 7th ring out of the next sheet. So I'm going to cut the two inner rings for the next rim in quarters too. If that works well, I'll do it for the rest of the rims too. Looks like I could save a lot of steel that way.

I have some pretty cool pictures, later. I also have the movie of the plasma torch in action. I'll try to post it tonight.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011704-newlayout.jpg

MAN, the PBB image limit is driving me crazy!!! I have about 15 more pictures to post. Just have to add words...

Back to the entertaining stuff...

Here is the front rockwell. I haven't shoveled in 4 weeks, this is what happens...
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-01rockwellsnow1_6333.jpg

There were a few axles with smaller tires in front of it. :D
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-02rockwellsnow2_6335.jpg

Its out! The rear is going to be fun. Try to find the 40" tire burried in that snow bank... :(
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-03rockwellsnow3_6336.jpg

Then I needed to go and get my jack stands. The last time I worked on this was also 3 weeks ago. The hubs are about 32" off the ground. Its complete enough to be used when I drag the scout up the hill. Now that will be picture worthy... :D
http://diywelder.com/media/images/011804-04jackstandsnow1_6361.jpg

I was wearing tennis shoes and didn't want to go inside and change them. Funny how that works, I can shovel half the yard just to get out of changing my shoes...
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-05jacksnow2_6365.jpg

Rockwell nuts are bigger than scout nuts!
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-06bigrockwelllugnut_6345.jpg

So I finally did this:
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-07cutoutrockwellcenter_6340.jpg

I used the rim center cutout to make a little stand to get the spindle higher off the bench. That way I can throw the drum on there and spin it.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-08rockwellspindlewithfunnybracket_6407.jpg

I'm really tired so I can't get all the pictures in. I welded the center of the rockwell by setting a stock 6x15" rim ontop of a 1.375" steel plate. That height, added with two 1/4" steel rings and the rubber sidewall will give about 10" of backspacing.

Here is the center all cleaned up and mounted on the drum:
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-09hubanddrum_6400.jpg
The paint looks funny because of all the frost.

I used my cheap tripod to align the center for welding. I just spun the thing and made sure the end of the tripod was aligned with the outside of the hole.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-10alignmenttool_6418.jpg

Then I welded it in. I didn't make the U things big enough to put a bead in. Oh well, there are 3 more.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-11weldincenter_6419.jpg

Finally we have a mounted beadlock.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-13beadlockmounted_6425.jpg

Where did the 2.5tons go? This looks like some little scout axle or something! :P
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-14mountedbeadlockmounted_6433.jpg

Kept the drum, inside of rim to steering arm is about .7" wider than stock.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-15insidelock%20cleareances_6434.jpg

Makes the rockwell puny. :(
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011804-16beadlocksideview_6435.jpg

Sometime when I'm not tired I'll reflect more and maybe have something else to say. I'm building the second rim this upcomming week. Next weekend the scout comes up the hill. Front suspension build starts asap, hopefully done by the week after the next. All the while I'm attacking the rear rim set. I'm going to build the rear rims 15", not like the fronts 16", and not like factory size of 17". I might build the rear rims at 14".

I imagine that the wheel and rim set weighs about 300-350lbs. The tire weighs 210 and the rims are just plain heavy. I'll see if I can't get it on the bathroom scale tomorow.

Sorry guys, I had a ton of pictures and red neck stories...but I'm just too tired to explain them all right now. DOn't worry, there will be new ones in the future. :D

Yeeeeehaaaaaw. Grant's makin progress!:D

I dig it.:D

wow

Can I be your friend?

I have some frequent flyer miles I can spend....need a hand:cool:

Grant RULES!

Originally posted by stocker75
How many people just questioned their own abilities and purpose in life?

I've never been so baffled. And to think, you hoseheads can still take it in stride and argue about brand loyalty.

So Grant, a few personal questions, if you don't mind. Feel free to ignore or indulge my morbid curiosities:

1. Do you sleep like normal humans?
2. When you complete your time machine will you go
back to the early eighties to find out what the hell happened to
your parents to affect your genetic code so deeply?

Ah hell, I've scared myself too much to ask any more. Twilight Zone meets Jackass meets Bill Nye meets Sid and Marty Croft meets Junkyard Wars...

How many tires did you scar up with the circular saw before it started smelling pretty and made you want to take a nap in a neighboring snowbank?

no matter where you go, there's always a complete fucking idiot:mad: never fails. BTW, i think he's the only one here that feels like that, I think this is one of the best threads I've ever read on the PBB. Keep up the good work:D

and all you guys said he was red neck-booty fab king when he first posted on the board

but I thought he was :cool:




:flipoff2:

Fawking awesome! :cool:

Keep it up!

(PS- the digging to find wheels/axles is too much. :laughing: )

Originally posted by Logjam-grant
One side installed. Pinion is in nearly the same spot. Pinion half misses the oil pan, but the drum part that sticks out the side will hit. a big hammer and 2x4 would help this. :D

I used the GI U-bolts and all associated hardware.

http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/070603-onesidedone_4500.JPG

http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/070603-centerchunk_4501.JPG
u-bolt flip?

No. Thats the way the U-bolts are on a M35. All those pieces are molded to fit that way and only that way. All that hardware came off of an M35 front end.

3 hours into the second rim and ALL the pieces are cut out. Welding Wednesday night. So for about 1 minute of plasma arc time, there is 2 minutes of shifting the sheet (table is not 8x4 feet), moving the second suction hose, and fighting with the computer. 51 minutes being the full 1500" of required cuts. Actually, I cut a few extra ring pieces. So I did more like 1700" :)

Once I got the first one done all the uknowns are known. Its actually manual labor now, not so much thinking involved.

I put a longer suction hose on the second fan so I can get it closer to where the torch is at. There is a 2 ft radius hole in the snow bank. Imagine a dark/thick orange/black/brown goo. Kinda like something threw up poop after they ate it.

Status of homebrew plasma action, I have the torch for the project and will finish it off when i get some free time away from the buggy.

You may have noticed that all the posts with images have been edited. I moved all the images to another server because everytime something is posted here it slows down my internet connection for a few days. :mad:

Now, because I've brought my thread to the top...I'm going to use this opportunity to post a bunch of old stuff and some humor stuff. After all, this thread is more about entertaining than tech. :D Look forward to some international harvester action this weekend!!!!

---Begin Entertainment---

Old laptop. Keyboard and botom plate both lift out. All my wireless pcmcia nics are dammaged, so I'm in the middle of a 3 day long hard drive backup at 115,200bps. Currently 3 days 11 hours and 16 minutes remaining.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/010903-oldplasmaputer_6163.jpg

I built a new plasma computer out of spare parts. Ended up being a 633mhz PIII with 196MB ram and a 6.3GB hard drive. Its nice when people deliver their old junk to your door. :TU:
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/010903-newplasmaputermaking_6160.jpg

New motor controllers allow 120IPM where the old ones topped out at 80IPM. They also eliminated the mid-band problem completely. And instead of harsh steps that make the plasma table sound like a coffee grinder, it sounds like a robot out of a sci-fi movie.

The little motor controller is the gecko microstep drive. $149 each. The large ones are some off brand from ebay, $39.

I'm 99% done putting all the motor stuff in a temporary enclosure. No more floating on the desk.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/010903-newmotorcontrollers_6182.jpg

If PBB didn't have an image limit this would be one post. :p

Finally, its done.
-Built it once, did some things wrong.
-Lurked on support lists for commercial machines, so I wouldn't make their mistakes
-Rebuilt it, now its good. :)

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011104-setup_6189.jpg
Powering the CNC table are 2 12v battery chargers. With the big one on 200A and the little one on 12v, I get 42vDC out. I hate computers, thats a computer in the middle. New exhaust fan on top. Civic Scout seats have been hanging since the day before it snowed. Board on the table walls is new. Deflects watter spray and fumes, not sparks. Electronics now in a little box, given to me because it had defects from the factory.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011104-cnccontrolelr_6187.jpg
New controller. The 1/4-20 bolts are used as studs to clamp the battery charger cables to. 64,000uf 50v cap. 2 gecko micro step drives. The strange thing in the middle of the box is a relay circuit to fire the torch at the right time. I've left room between the cap and my fireing circuit for an auto torch height controller that I'm working on. There is also a meter taped to the side. I'm not actually cutting holes into the enclosure until finish the torch height controll. Who am I kidding, it will stay this way until it becomes a problem.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011104-gantry_6190.jpg
Okay, the X motor arm bracket could use some work, but I don't have any argon yet. So no welding aluminum.

There is now a laster pointer on the arm. I define a "point", which is a line with no length, in the picture that won't get cut out. Then I save that point to the file and back it up. I move to the point, and shine a laser pointer onto the steel marking the dot with a pen. If the tip jams into the steel and I have to pull the plug I can manually relocate the gantry system so that the laser points to the dot. Tell the computer that the torch is exactly on that point, and there we go. I've never heard of this being used on a plasma system. I just thought of it one day after having to madly hit the escape key and then try to triangulate where the torch should have been... :TU:

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011104-fullsheet_6194.jpg
CNC CAM control program[/img]

MORE old stuff...its old repost stuff from the other board, so it might not make sense. :P
---

If you're interested, detailed captions and funny stories tomorrow. Don't make too many assumptions about what's going on. :TU:

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-24ringinfrontof31tire_6199.jpg
31" truck tire behind 24" rim ring (27.25"OD) BIG. These rims aren't going to be a feather either.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-allthatsleft_6228.jpg
This is what the scraps look like. I'll get a picture with all the scraps left over later on.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-centerchunk_6230.jpg
This is the only steel left. use it for the center chunk and emergency quarter rings. I haven't decided if I'm going to cut the center section in two pieces or one. I'm getting the nut seat surfaces from the military rim, so I could use two pieces. Two pieces means I could weld both inner rings on before fitting up the center. That's probably what I'll do.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-cutquality_6224.jpg
Cut quality. Holes are true. Focal spot is abot where the bench starts. The cut is smooth, like it was plastic or polished steel.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-forcompany_6214.jpg
My dad wanted me to show some of his coworkers how the thing worked. They were pretty impressed with how quickly it went. I found a scrap, threw another cross on to it, did a police outline on it, aligned the gantry system by hand, and then pressed the cut button. Away it went.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-sparkspray2_6235.jpg
Nice...I have more of these.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-sparkspray_6241.jpg
Just looking at the machine cut will make your wrist feel tired. :D

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-tablecuthalfway24ring_6205.jpg
Only outer ring cut left.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-testfitofgood24ring_6198.jpg
Nice. FOr some reason the top right part of the ring looks unround, but it isn't. I can roll these rings from one side of the garage to the other. I have two perfect rings, one ring that needs major help (middle ring duty), and one ring with two bad holes. I noticed that everytime the compressor turned on that the gantry system hesitated about a tenth of a second. Okay, thats strange, where is my 64,000uf when I need it? It turns out i forgot to turn the big battery charger on. THe motors were getting 16v instead of 42. This doesn't change the speed, they're synchronus motors, but it changes the torque. On the big ring the first hole it cut was really strange. It cur the lead in correctly, hesitated for the first hemisphere, and then cut the other side perfectly. It looks like someone drew a ladel on my steel. This hole will get traced in chalk and burned out by hand. Another ring suited for middle duty. This was the first "failure" I've had with the new motor controllers, and I'm sure it had something to do with the compressor turning on, OR the fact that the documentation says the controllers require a MINIMUM of 24vDC and they were getting 16vDC. :TU:

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-timeforsomework_6242.jpg
Welding tomrrow. I have 10 quarters for the inner rings. Need 8, best of 10. :TU: Including the poopey ring with all of the funny 90* notches. WIll clean that up and use it as a middle ring. Maybe when I'm done if I have enough material left I'll make a middle ring from quarters. THere just isn't room for mistakes on these sheets. 1 sheet is barely enough.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-topviewof24ringontable_6210.jpg
Some hole slugs don't drop out because the slats hold them up.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-yieksthatsnotcool_6255.jpg
I was kneeling over the table while it cut 8 of the rings from "scraps". Man, more fume hood needed! Thats some scary stuff!!! I had no idea!

I'm going throw an old laptop somewhere near my seat. Hook some webcams to the table so I don't have to suck fumes all day.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-01nomorebreathingjunk_6256.jpg

Here are 4 of the ring quarters...before any slag knocking.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-02stackcut_6257.jpg

This is through the stack. Just ask brook, these holes are pretty good, compared to...
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-03throughstack_6258.jpg

Here is that fart I was talking about. I'm lucky that only two holes were messed up. Otherwise the ring is perfect.
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011204-04plasmafart_6259.jpg

I've been having real bad problems with haze in the garage. My particle mask gets orange and the walls are getting colored. You know you have a problem when your blowing black junk out your nose. BAD. I don't want to have messed up kidlets!

I first started with a 160CFM fan, but you couldn't even tell if it was on. Then I upgraded to a high pressure rated 790CFM fan and it helped a ton. I could cut an unlimited number of holes, but a straight line cut of over 10" made smoke pour out of the hood. So now I have a 790CFM going out the wall and 1450CFM going out the door.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011904-fan01-wd40_6453.jpg
I started testing out the fan wireing. I heard a few clanks. If the fan blade rotation were correct (I had it wrong the first time) I can only imagine that can of WD40 on EVERYTHING!

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011904-fan02-problemwithoutput_6454.jpg
Rectangle hole, round hose. I wanted to use all the hose as suction. But it wasn't heavy enough and the second the fan turned on it completely sucked all up. So I wanted to use a short section for intake and the rest for output. What would red green do?

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011904-fan03-boxadaptor_6455.jpg
Thats what I thought too!

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011904-fan01-temporarysuction_6460.jpg
I tested it out by cutting an entire ring (49 .6 holes and 140" of circle cut). Not a single hint of haze. Plus, for the first time all of the curtains were sucked inwards on the table. That means negative pressure inside the hood, which means only air goes in. :)

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011904-fan01-setup_6464.jpg

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011904-fan01-results_6463.jpg
140" of cut in smoke. Remember there is still 700CFM going out the wall. Maybe throwing my monkey wrench in there wasn't the best idea.

These next two Red Green segments (AND MORE!!!) will be featured on the Alaska offroad buggy video due out sometime next fall/winter. DVD quality and all!

I promise, scout tech this weekend.

begin old repost---

Now, don't jump to conclusions! This is one of the few projects that worked...kinda. He couldn't steer! (Or drive anywhere but downhill! ) Text for each picture is at the bottom.

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat01.JPG

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat02.JPG
"It doesn't matter how much planning you do, or how safety conscious you are, something always goes wrong."

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat03.JPG
"I had this fishing boat mounted on the top of my car there, and she was solid. I'd put a roll and a half of duct tape into the job... So I'm driving along, up comes the wind, and bam, she's outa there! Well, its not my fault! I didn't actually aim the boat at that hitch hiker! You should have heard the string of obscenities. As far as I'm concerned, a woman that age shouldn't be hitch hiking in the first place."

"But I'm thinking this whole roof rack needs a little reengineering. Ehh?"

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat04.JPG
"Wouldn't it be a lot safer and aerodynamic if you could put stuff under the car...instead of over it? But as the fat guy said to the phone booth, we need a little more clearance"

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat05.JPG
(grunting) "Alright, the next step is real easy. All you need is four of these great big tractor tires...not hard to come by...there's abandoned tractors all over this country! Thanks to government trade policies, and people preferring to eat food made from vinul."

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat06.JPG
"Okay, I've got a challenge here. I've got the tractor wheel is not actually made to mount right onto the car hub. I got the tire off, the rim off... Now the rim fits on there fine but I don't want the rim on there, I want the tractor tire on there. So what I need to do is mount the tractor wheel onto the rim with some kind of adaptor. Now if you call up your local auto supply, and tell them you're looking for an adaptor to put tractor wheels on to a 1990 Honda, well there is going to be some laughter, probably a visit from the cops, maybe a psychiatric nurse."

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat07.JPG
"So instead, might I recommend the secret handy man's adaptor...duct tape.

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat08.JPG
"Starting to get the idea now, aren't ya."

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat09.JPG
"Now all I have to do is slide the boat underneath there, and I'll be able to carry it safely and easily to my predetermined destination. Its not a tractor-trailer, its a tractor and a trailer!"

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat10.JPG
"And its just that simple. So remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy. Oh! I almost forgot, there is another bonus to this unit, "

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat11.JPG
"I've actually added paddles to the drive wheels on her. So its not just a boat carrier, its an amphibious car!"

http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/rg02-carboat12.JPG

He then drives down the bank and into the lake. The car actually moved under its own power since once in the water, the passenger side wheel slowed and the driver wheel sped up (transaxle diff). Sure he might have trouble on turns, or going forward on flat ground...but its cool! ;)

I hope you enjoyed this.

Grant

---

next segment comming up, time for a commercial---

The nice and sweet girls like the rickshaws and lights. :p
I just finished entertaining some guests. Was worried about wheeling in the ditch too long due to it being 11PM and sleeping neighbors! :)

Man, if only rigs could be built like this polaris. Its a 900lb rig that pulls an 800lb load like a rocket...
http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/073103-chicksaguyandarickshaw_4669.JPG
You know, if you ever doubt the 'coolness' of a rickshaw, all you have to do is look at the faces of everyone who takes a ride in them. Thats what its all about. :)

Lights:
http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/073103-chicksandlights_4682.JPG

The travelall never had a gas tank in the rear. What other stock "lowrider" truck can you do this to?
http://media.diywelder.com/images/offroad/073103-rearendaccess_4677.JPG

There is more head access than it looks, I had to duck for the camera!!! ;)

Anyway, have a good friday...

Btw, yes, I did drive all winter with those wires like that. :p Those wire my tail lights. hehehe :thumb3:

I can't find the second red green post I made to the old site. It must have been deleted for some reason. Dude!!! :mad:

Anyway, you're welcome for the huge boost in image loading speed.

I'm going to go into hibernation untill I get some scout tech for this thread.

Bye.

I found some scout tech for Mr. Yelling Chief.

Its sure easy to recycle old posts as filler. :P

---

The guy who puts bearings in boxes for Napa is gay. He packages the retainer ring on the wrong side. :mad4: I didn't check. :mad4: :mad4:

http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/072803-stupidbearingboxers_4628.JPG

Plus, there is the '77 Scout 44...
http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/072803-scoutshaft_4637.JPG

And then the '69 Travelall 44...
http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/072803-travelallshaft_4638.JPG

So maybe you can see how it happened, but anyway...time to make things better. Shucks and napa both say they are out of oil seals, I know they have them, but don't feel like fighting. TIme to remove the old bearings without heat. :( I usually heat the retainer ring up and then push it off with an air hammer.

This bearing hasn't even seen grease yet. :(
http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/072803-diggingin_4629.JPG

Don't go all the way through, that would be bad.
http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/072803-axlesarestillgood_4633.JPG

Once its thin enough, it will crack because of the tight fit on the axle shaft. Then it comes off real easy.
http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/072803-manmadebearingcrack_4634.JPG

Scout 44 shafts are shorter than travelall.
http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/072803-scoutandtravelallshafts_4635.JPG

Poor bearing guts. :(
http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/072803-bearingguts_4640.JPG

Align the new one all nice and pretty, then "press-fit" with a section of 2" pipe and some carefully placed whacks. :thumb3:

Originally posted by Logjam-grant
[B]No. Thats the way the U-bolts are on a M35. All those pieces are molded to fit that way and only that way. All that hardware came off of an M35 front end.

NO, no, if you are redoing all the front suspension for it, you may as well flip the u-bolts up.

Your wheels are insane, quite the ambitious project. Double beadlocked, home made wheels. Those tyres are FAT! :D

Originally posted by Logjam-grant
Scout 44 shafts are shorter than travelall.
http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/072803-scoutandtravelallshafts_4635.JPG

Poor bearing guts. :(
http://diywelder.com/images/offroad/072803-bearingguts_4640.JPG

Align the new one all nice and pretty, then "press-fit" with a section of 2" pipe and some carefully placed whacks. :thumb3:

weld some more spline onto the scout 44 axle!! :D

:laughing:

Originally posted by N*A*M
:laughing:

You laugh now, but seriously!

Sam Keck, cut and lengthened a suzuki axle with some fence pole to get his car to drive under its own power, after he snapped the long side rear, and he only had a short side spare or something.

Pretty wild fab, but it held up for the 10 minutes he needed it for anyways!! (Then I trucked in a spare for him)!!

Originally posted by Logjam-grant
http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011404-04cuttingcenter_6314.jpg

Now for a game. Can anyone guess why there is always a paint stick near the plasma torch? :)





Since no one else wants to try, I think I'll take a shot. My first idea was that you'd use it to break the arc, but you could just turn it off. Second thought was that you use it to push the cut pieces away from the torch without getting burned or shocked. I think I saw a pic of the paintstick in action, which gave me this last thought, that it is used to set the torch distance from workpiece. (arc length)
I don't know much about plasma cutters, just that I want one to cut out my fenders to make room for 35's with minimal lift on a Scout 80.


Is that plasma cnc run by the homebrew plasma you posted pics of earlier?

Originally posted by Logjam-grant

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/011104-gantry_6190.jpg

this pic

Well, if it was my plasma table, I would prolly be using the paint stick to mark my home position. But since its Grants table, Id guess that its to use as some sort of spacer, hammer, prybar, or measuring tool. ;)

Due to the distance that the bed rails are set at...Any small piece, similar to the 1/4 ring pieces, that might be running parallel to the bed rails...will fall through.

If those peices fall through they will go to the bottom of the bed. If that happens then you have to fish them out at the end of the cut run and they will probably be covered with slag and corn. Especially if your bed rail height is not very far from the floor.

Originally posted by Urban Wheeler

I don't know much about plasma cutters, just that I want one to cut out my fenders to make room for 35's with minimal lift on a Scout 80.


yeah you're right, you dont know much about plasma cutters:flipoff2:

oh yeah, and my guess about the stick is,

so the room will smell pine fresh when youre done:D

You doubt my ability? Now I HAVE to do it. :flipoff2:

And H of S, somehow I really doubt that, even though it is a good thought.

Originally posted by Urban Wheeler
You doubt my ability? Now I HAVE to do it. :flipoff2:

And H of S, somehow I really doubt that, even though it is a good thought.


Listen newb....Have you ever stood next to a Plasma table and watched the fish hit the bottom of the ocean?

IF NOT STFU;)


Anyone who has stood around a table would also be able to realize that all of the above replies are more than a feasible use for the paint stick.

So we are all correct.

Yellings: I'm sorry that I've let you down. I will try to think of a bootyfab thing to do as soon as possible. Atleast everything I do is "grant fab"..after all who else has built a cnc table with a drill, chop saw, hammer, several vice grips, and a porta-band? :D

Roids: Those were really old pictures. I didn't flip the u-bolts due to one of the principals of grant-fab, path of least resistance. ;) I'm doing coils in the front now, so I will be using some link brackets that are already made. Coil buckets aren't made yet, thats for this up comming week. Here are some old pictures:

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/100603-bracketlayout_5459.JPG

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/100603-brackethalfandcoyote_5460.JPG

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/100703-brearofaxletestbracket_5463.JPG

They don't fit together tight because of the seam welds, and because of the kerf width of the plasma torch. Will grind weld down a little.

http://media.diywelder.com/media/images/100703-frontofbrackettest_5462.JPG

Urban: You got it right first, kinda. You can't break an arc by removing a ground clamp or putting wood in the way. There is a negative (electrode) and positive (constrictio nozzle/tip) connection that will sustain the arc. This is the pilot arc that starts the plasma fun without actually touching the torch to the steel. The only thing breaking the pilot arc is a timer in the machine, or if the timer is brokem, when the tip and electrode get eaten up from abuse. :)

Shocked? Not unless you took apart the torch, bypassed the safety interlock switch in the torch, touched the electrode and work at the same time, and then pulled the trigger. The plasma output is isolated from the mains. This is a good thing, since the "work clamp" that you put on your steel at the start of a cut is at ~280vDC and while cutting between 100-140vDC. :D

Set the distance of the torch to the steel, yes! :) Its just the right size.

A plasma torch is nice on fenders. Atleast 30 year old IH fenders. I tried a sawzall on one of my scouts once and I think thats the reason the door doesn't shut anymore. ;)

The plasma table is not run by the alternator yet. Its not ready. I haven't made ANY safety interlock stuff yet, let alone put it in a box. It occupies a 8x8 square in the basement. Box pieces will be made after the scout drives, has a roll cage, winch, and fuel source. Then I will be ready. ;)

HOS: The table is about 15" off the ground. Right under the table is a pan 8" deep with 6" of water. If you haven't seen it, then you can't imagine the kind of scum and floaties that come from plasma cutting. Amazing. I have a large set of channel-lock plyers deticated to water table duty. Its a bad day for me when I have to stick my hand in there. :D

Okay, I didn't get as far as I wanted to, but here is what happened since Friday.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/012404-newcenter_6493.jpg

Everywhere the weld piles up like that is when the Millermatic starts stubbing telling me it needs to cool down. ;) This time I increased the diameter of the small circles by .5", enough to stick some weld in there.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/012404-rimwelding_6497.jpg

There are a few things happening here. I am welding the back of the deuce center in, and welding the middle rings together. Millermatic duty cycle times out, and then I use the stick machine to do the middle rings. The rim is now ready for gussets, then mounting. I will weigh all of the pieces of the rim and post some weights. *I* probably won't be startled by the outcome, you guys might. ;)

Scout Buggy Rescue Begins now***********

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/012404-plow1_6498.jpg

We got 30" of snow back in december. I pile some of the snow from the road up into a big pile that blocks access to the lower part of the road. When its piled up, it doesn't naturally compact like the rest of the snow. There is a bank about 12 feet deep, 9 feet wide and 6 feet tall. I spent all day shoveling and then slaming my 5000lb+ scout II into it. After 5 hours we made it. All that snow bank was rock hard. :(

If you look back in this thread, you will see where I plowed this earlier.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/012404-plow1.5_6506.jpg

Here we are about 6-7 feet into the bank. What we do is break up all the snow and then slam the scout into it. That pushes all the broken stuff on top of the pile so we only have to shovel forward, not 6 feet up onto the sides of the road. :D

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/012404-plow2_6523.jpg

Here we are at the tail end. Right after this picture we gave it a running start and made it through the bank.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/012404-stuckscout_6526.jpg

You can't plow really deep snow in one pass when you have no where to push it. The snow is about 20" deep and for about 50 feet the bank is 6 feet on both sides. So you have to plow in passes. I left about 8" under the plow.

I was comming up the hill and heard a clank. Just threw a rear tire chain. So we rock it a little and throw a front chain chain. Doesn't take a mad scientist to know one chain the front and one in the rear with open diffs stuck in snow over the diffs is bad. Aparently my tie down straps had dry rot and were falling off! The scout is on a hill, with snow past the diffs, and only 25" of cleareance on either side. I spent about an hour repairing broken chain links, removing the tires, installing the chains again, and then finally driving out. Eat your heart out Station, this is why I don't like snow. :mad:

Thats my situation right now. Second rim needs gussets before it gets installed, PLOW scout is now in the driveway, road needs a second plow pass, and then I need to plow the backyard where the buggy scout is. THEN I am going to booty-fab some sort of way to tow the buggy scout up the hill. Its still on those stumps. I plan on turning that scout axle from the jackstands upside down and throwing it under the front. 10 foot tongue and a trailer hitch on the end. Will use the readywelder to install the front axle with rebar.

For a second here I was frightened by the fact the diff is bone dry. But I just remembered I put it back together without the locking part of the external hubs. :D

that looks like shitty coastal snow:mad:

I've spent the last 7 days getting the scout up the hill. Its here.

First I shoveled a giant snow bank, then plowed up a big bank. 1st gear didn't work. 1st gear with a head start didn't work. 2nd gear decided to make the plow go over the pile. I became high centered in hard wet snow past the tires. I snatched about 5 times with the F250, and only moved the truck 3-4". This is with all 4 chained wheels spinning. I later calculated the net pull at about 10,200lbs. Its a waste of time to dig out when my distant neighbor has a D590. Chain on the rear, lift up, and pull out.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013104-01scoutgotstuck_6551.JPG
No good pictures on that. Trust me, it was bad. :(

Time to dig out the buggy scout and get ready for the D590, after all...I'm not going to waste that time!

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013104-02virginsnowscout_6548.JPG

No more.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013104-03snowgone_6554.JPG

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013104-04rearofsnowlescout_6557.JPG

I had to drag the scout D44 from by the van into the garage and install the wheel studs. I also put the outer spindle bearing nut retainers in. What a waste of time. I should have welded some steel table legs to the thing. You'll see later...

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013104-05installstuds_6560.JPG

My brother and I pushed, pulled, and dragged the D44 all the way to the scout. This wasn't fun, but it was good exercise.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013104-06D44readyforscout_6563.JPG

This is maybe, and I say mabe, the last time you'll see a rig of mine balancing on stumps. :D

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013104-07laststumpbootyfabpicture_6568.JPG

I was going to tie the axle on with rebar, add a sinch strap to the mix, and pull the thing up with my plow scout. But I had a cat comming over, so I had to choose some reliable booty fab methods to not waste his time. Ahh!!! I should have done it myself. :( With the road plowed I could have easily towed the scout.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013104-08coolbootyfabsetup_6573.JPG

Bootyfab done. 7 9" bolts and about 75 grade 8 washers. :D Yes, thats right. 75 washers. ;)

The the day came for the D590 to come over...

It happened so quickly. I intended on having the thing dragged up the hill by the bumper. Thats why I spent $5 in 9" ungraded bolts to booty fab attach a front axle upside down to the front. And I was worrying about stresses to a ball joint D44 mounted upside down. What forces?

Oh well, I had a D590 plow the backyard. No truck could. A little good and a little bad. Anyway, on to the Red Green truck moving contest... :D

It was worth it, trust me. Even with a bent up twisted pile of scout left over.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013004-D590plowingsnow_6600.jpg

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013004-beforedeath_6596.jpg

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013004-beforedeath2_6597.jpg

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013004-problembegins_6601.jpg

I was confused at this point what EXACTLY was going on...he got out a few times and adjusted the chain, so I thought that ment he was going to drag it. Adjusting it because the chain would hit the seat. NO!!! I didn't put a front axle on it for a fork lift! ;)

So it slowly starts to bend while the D590 bounces around the back yard. I wasn't even watching the thing while it did the first bending, I was turned around walking away from the fast approaching machine. At this point the chain is wraped around the rear leaf spring mount and the rear frame is attached by the brake lines and some soft remains of the boxed frame. I'm very impressed by what the scout frame went through before it bent..

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013004-scoutdangling_6604.jpg

This may look funny, and it kinda is, but I was hoping for a 4 seater. ;) Oh well, I guess its time to tube out the rear and do it like brook's S10.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/013004-scoutindrivewaybent_6606.jpg

You know, something just occured to me. Just last night I was making fun of the ricer with the bumper that got pulled off. It wasn't the ricer owner's fault, just like in my case. Oh well, Maybe I can say it was intended...

Posted here is the red neck / red green method of trimming a frame for a tubed out rear end. :D

In the morning I'll survey the dammage. Hood doesn't shuta nymore and all the body shifted forward. :(

The second front rim will be finished tomorow, and I will plan the link suspension which is taking place this sunday-friday.

Humor at its finest!

Looks loke you have no other option but a bunch more tube!

Keep it coming Grant.

I hope you didn't have to PAY for that backhoe service. With a plowed path all the to it, lifting the rear end and dragging it would have been the logical thing to do. It looks like he saw your camera and decided he'd show off a little and pick the whole thing up. Looks like the machine is plenty capable of lifting it, but the operator need to go to "rigging school". :rolleyes:

We paid him $100 to clear all of the huge berms out of the road and driveway a few weeks before. This was more of a favor. He didn't ask, I was still staring at the pile of the scout and wasn't in a frame of mind to offer. ;)

He is a friend of the family, and I know he didn't mean to do it. Visibility was bad, so as the thing was drooping I think he just kept lifting it.

Today I am going to look at the body dammage to the front and see if I can start it. If everything looks good and the frame left is good, then I'm going to weld the frame back straight. Then put a 5-10 foot tongue on it and use an F250 pickup to hold the rear of the scout down while I jack the front up to slide in the rockwell.

I might just check the compression and if the engine is marginal look for something else.

More pictures tonight. :D

Grant- next time I am in Anchorage I will have to look you up!

This thread is great!! I click on the IH forum before any of the others just to see what you have added!

The frame was perfectly cut in the same place, +- .25". That's pretty good. :)
http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020104-04perfectcut_6627.JPG

I'll try to get some better pictures of the bends tomorow. (the metal surface showing the fracture) Its clearly visible where the brittle and ductile fractures occured. I'll take a sample of the unaffected area to school and figure out what strength steel it is.
http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020104-02passengerside_6619.JPG
http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020104-03driversside_6617.JPG

Minus the gas cans, juice, battery charger, and extension cords...this is what I woke up to.
http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020104-01thewayitwasthismorning_6607.JPG

I tried and tried to get the thing to start. Had a spark, wouldn't respond to starter fluid-but responded to a 1/3rd cup of gas down the hole. Found big vacuume leak. The thing drove into its parking spot, that it left only yesterday. Filter wasn't clogged, so I went and got a new electric fuel pump. It doesn't develop suction either. I troubleshoot broken wires all day long, why couldn't I think of a frozen gas line? :D

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020104-05itruns_6610.JPG

Sometime during the process of fuel pump discovery, I noticed that whenever I grabbed the filter the carb wiggled. Dude. This is one of those little SBCs with the base and middle section. All 3 phillips screws that go from the base to the middle section were at least 1.5 turns out. Tightened those, thawed the gas line (just ripped it out and brought it inside), and it fired up. This engine runs a few hundred times better than the F250 with 10k miles less, the F250 also freshly out of the shop with a rebuilt carb and cooling. :D At 88k miles, this scout has at least 200k to go before a rebuild. ;) Once it warmed up it sounded like a 2002 EFI ford van. ;) Only thing wrong is the rich mixture which was necessary when the carb had a 1/32 gap and a bad wiggle. :)

By Sunday night I hope to have pictures of the scout levetating with the 52" tires under it. Suspension brackets too.

Keep up the progress and the pics.

Cant wait to see all four wheels and tyres suspending something off the ground!

this is by far the most entertaining thread going, he makes all of his own stuff and doesn't hesitate to try something out of the box, shows us newbies anything is possible

I was going to wait a little longer, til I had more pictures and content. But you guys won't leave me alone. :P

No air at all. I'm hoping that I don't need any. ;)

In 42 minutes I loaded a 320lb sheet of steel onto the table by myself, setup the torch, exhaust fans, cut one outer ring, and 5 inner quarters.

Future:
I'm getting some serviceable truck driveshafts retubed. 1410 joints, flage yokes on the shaft.
The flange yokes for the 200 (same as the 205) will cost more than the drive shafts. :D
I'm also buying the winch drive shaft out of a gasser M35. I'm going to use the front axle output on the D20 for a PTO. Throw in a couple flange bearings and sprockets to throw the output to the rear of the scout, done.

I made this for the guy that moved the scout. Like a gift/payment thing.

I love my CNC macnine. Took 40 seconds for a 7x12" piece of 1/4" steel to turn into this:

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020704-demoforphill_6660.jpg

Phill asked if I could radius a corner, so I had to send this to him. Happy now phill? :D

I briefly considered hanging a half of a car from the bucket... ;)

I didn't get as far as I wanted. I just did a good job, which took a little more time than expected.

Basically, broke 5 feet of frame off. Hacked 3 more feet off. Welded 10.5 feet back on. Saturday I had to video tape a funeral. Sunday I got a little time in.

The jack stands are just behind the COG. I can lift the rear and raise the front from the rear frame.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020904-01beginningofday_6667.jpg

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020904-02beginningofday2_6668.jpg

My Big winch. Phill is getting rid if his 12k winch. I might getthat for the front.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020904-03alittleintoit_6674.jpg

Scout and bucket of bolts.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020904-04trimmingsomestuff_6679.jpg

Its harder to uncut metal, so don't give me a hard time about leaving that sutff there. :P It will probably go, but I'd like to save it for integration.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020904-05bootyfabwheelblock_6684.jpg

Don't knock this untill you see it work. There is no way the strap can fall off the tire, and no way the truck can move without driving over the tank head. ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020904-06raiseingscout_6688.jpg

It was a long process to raise the scout. I had to jack it from 0" off the ground to about 28", and do both sides at the same time. Only one wimpy crossmember left.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020904-07cutframeline_6699.jpg

Plasma.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020904-08cutframe_6701.jpg

I removed the exhaust system to gain access to the cut area. This is after I blew a hole in the pipe from cutting. ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020904-09cuttingstressriserreducers_6703.jpg

Stress riser reducer. Don't want my frame breaking because of a right angle weld. The tube is welded and grinded under the plates.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020904-10stressriserreducerweldedinoverweld_6709.jpg

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020904-11donefortheday1_6706.jpg

I could put a whole lot of seats on this 10.5' frame extension. ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/020904-11donefortheday2_6713.jpg

I like this picture. Its cute. :P

The suspension links will all mont to the new frame, I think. If not, really close (the front links).

The frame is +- 1/16 square to the end of the 10.5' lengths, because I'm taking it to the moon.

Before I go, that scout is on 31s in the front. ;)

Also, the suspension in the front is realaxed. Its about 6" taller in the front from stock. (SOA and relaxed spring). Finished ride height won't be much taller than this.

3x4x.188

.25 was too heavy .120 was too thin

nice work Grant. Get that axle under there!! Keep the updates coming!

This trick won't last long forever guys..bringing my post to the top and forcing me to update it. ;) I usually like to wait til I have a bunch done, rather than keep a post at the top of the binders forum forever.

I measured my outside-rubber to outside rubber dimension at 96-97". Most likely 96.5. I'm just glad it wasn't 103" like I thought earlier.

No driver side drop planned anymore. Driveshaft and oil filter do not wish to marry.

Only 2 hours a day to work on the scout. :(

I needed to make sure the rear frame didn't go up in the air. It would nose dive. I wasn't heavy enough, but a 210lb tire was. :D

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/021004-tireholdingdowncar_6714.jpg

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/021004-out_6715.jpg
Out... Didn't have enough time to plasma cut the leaf spring brackets off.

I couldn't actually get the axle all the way under because there wsa too much front sheet metal in the way. The final ride height will be a few inches higher than this. 2.5 to 3" higher. Not higher to clear anything, but durring articulation the top of the tire would start digging into the headlights. ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/021004-testfit2_6719.jpg
96-97" wide, better than the 103" I thought it was.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/021004-testfit1_6718.jpg

Of all things to limit uptravel...hedlignts...

Not only will this scout be about 12" less lift than most trucks on 52s and rockwells, but the trackwidth is about 6-8" narrower. Rim sizes, and trying to fit the axle in the stock location are the most common/worse compromises. If I had bought the 18.4x16.1s the track width would be ~6-8" wider.

I don't have a problem with only 2 hours a day, I'm just getting tired of not being able to watch my sci-fi shows. At the end of March I get a spring break from school. No 13 hour days for a whole week!!! I can't wait!!! 7 hours a day of future play...that's as much as I'm able to get in on each weekend day...

Phill better not get a 6HP motor for his winch!

Tonight I'm going to hack all the leaf spring brackets off. Then design frame brackets and pan hard brackets. Then setup the plasma cutter for CNC operation, not drag around the backyard action.

I think I know where one of my coil springs is, and I think I know where the other sits. Just have to start digging. :TD:

good work as alwys Grant

:bowing:
Just wanted to thank you for some of the best stuff I have read on the internet ever.

You are my new hero. Where in Anchorage are you, we used to live up there.

Again, wow!!!
Some of the funniest stuff I have read in my life. I started crying when you dug into your $1,000 camera!

Don't mean to take away from your mad-scientisting, just had to give my props.

I just have to say this is one of the best threads I've ever read here on P4x4.

Very entertaining and I can't wait to see how this beast turns out.

Freakin' cool. :beer:

definitley gonna turn out badass,

and of course this thread is the best, it's about a mad man and a super trick scout:flipoff2:

This guy should be working for NASA.

Nice work buddy

Great stuff, this is by far one of the best threads I have ever read and it just keeps getting better.

I have a ton more stuff to post, but don't have time. Tonight I will have a lot more...like suspension pictures. :D

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/021604-springs_6751.jpg

Phill gave me the stiff ones on the left. I'm using the larger softer ones on the front.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/021604-testspring_6756.jpg

Have to see how well they compress. ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/021604-lowscout_6755.jpg

Ride height goal

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/021604-highscout_6758.jpg

Jacked up 10 inches higher to slide coils in place. Pipe stands are there to slow the fall, not support the truck. :cool:

sweet!
keep em comin

You are my hero.....i know its been said....but where can i sign up for the fan club??

HERE,S TO YOU :beer: :beer: :beer: .............KEEP IT COMING:cool:

That's is some awesome stuff! I am 20 and wish I had the skill/ambition you do!

Will

HMMM..... What new news? I don't wanna wait any longer, the crazy Alaskan guys got me hooked, project merkwurdig is one of the coolest things I've ever read here!

you= the man.

my hell we ought to sell knee pads and chapstick to this thread...:rolleyes: if you can wade through all the ass kissing posts its good stuff grant, but you sure have attracted a bad element to the IH forum :flipoff2:

This is the most regularly posted to thread here now....and it is mostly crap. Interesting since there are no other quality posts....but still this is crap.

Its like our own little retarded variety show that won't go away. :shaking:

Feel the love! :P

I agree with the last two IH guys.

If you really feel that what I do is special, then get out and read a book. :D

And if you really can't resist saying "dude" on one line and ending the post, then wait til the second after I update it. :p

Last time I checked big tires, rockwells, and little trucks wasn't special. :rolleyes: :eek: :cool:

Big tires, custom beadlocks, rockwells, a broke ass scout.... None of that's special.

It's the fact that a quite young college kid made it all in the basement of his house!

Originally posted by YellowIH
This is the most regularly posted to thread here now....and it is mostly crap. Interesting since there are no other quality posts....but still this is crap.

Its like our own little retarded variety show that won't go away. :shaking:

Get the fawk over yourself:rolleyes: Like there is ever anything posted in the fucking scout section anyway. :shaking: asshat. The shit you post is just chock-full of tech also...

I do love the comments, really, I'm just trying to keep the peace. ;)

No suspension pictures yet, but extremely close to it.

Do I need a 350LB tcase?

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022104-DSC00015.jpg

Might be cheaper than 3 flange yokes for the 200. ;)

Should have just bought the M35 and put big tires on that. Could have saved time and money. :p

Thats a 205 in the picture above. :D

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022504-portablebender_6779.jpg
Portabe bender took a leak. :( The quick disconnect hoses let out a little bit every time they are unplugged.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022504-driveshafts_6785.jpg
1310 scout stock front shaft and a heavy duty 1610 from an M35. :D

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022504-attentiontodetail_6791.jpg
I wasn't kidding brook. This defines attention to detail. But it looks like the eyes are too far apart. Oh well, it still looks fine. :P

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022504-rockwellrearhubsin52back_6783.jpg
These things don't look big anymore to me. Especially with a 52 mounted on them.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022504-spindlenutremoval_6787.jpg
I wonder if there is a horriblly expensive spindle nut socket for this thing. Oh well...

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022504-big_6789.jpg
Take hub apart.

Not ready to show pictures of the suspension yet. :p

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022904-01tonsofcutstuff_6793.jpg
16 inner ring quarters, 16 middle ring quarters, two lower coil supports, two frame side radius arm brackets, one pan hard axle bracket, and a complete set of rockwell brackets (one of them will be modified).

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022904-02-cutstuffputtogether_6803.jpg
The rockwell brackets are about 6 months old. I cleaned all the tack welds off of them from the van project. :)

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022904-03smilefacebracket_6794.jpg
Hi guys!

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022904-04notchedtube_6821.jpg
Quick trace from pipe wrap (made with winmiter) and a quick touchup with grinder.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022904-05notchedsquare_6822.jpg
Betchya want to know what's going on here!

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022904-06-weldingnotchedpipe6813.jpg
Jig

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022904-07bracketandthing_6818.jpg

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022904-08aligningsquarelink_6829.jpg

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022904-09twoupperlinks_6830.jpg

Two spindle nuts, a retainer, and a winch end yoke cost me $25.
3 drive shafts, one 1610 set and two 1410 sets cost me $50 each.

I let gary know that I was going to retube the shafts anyway and only needed good condition cores. So I bought broken shafts rather than full shafts. I did get a cool little one for the D20 to NP200 link.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/030204-1610intermediateshaft_6834.jpg
This one has two 1610s and two flange yokes. Its a pretty neat unit, all one piece. Its not a slip and standard yoke put together with welds. I think it has .5-1" of slip.

Brook wondered about spares...since the 1610 joints are $75+ each. I'll just buy a few more shafts for that price. ;)

Wait. A 3L slant 4 from IH needing a 1610 spare joint? Hua? ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/030204-winchendyokeandscoutstockshaft_6833.jpg
Looks like the drive shaft end yoke for my winch has more beef than the old scout driveshaft. :ha: Winch end yoke on the right.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/030204-shaftlineup_6836.jpg
Top to bottom.
Scout front shaft with winch end yoke.
Little shaft for doubler
1610 shaft for the rear axle. Nothing more gheto than a shaft made with two slip yokes ;) Might call up and get another 1610 tube yoke.
Spare parts
1410 shaft for the front

Its not like I planned on having 1610s. It just happened.

So maybe all these 1610s are really 1510s? I don't care. And hey, someone voted my golden stars down. :mad:

:p

Originally posted by Logjam-grant
http://media.diywelder.com/images2/022504-rockwellrearhubsin52back_6783.jpg
These things don't look big anymore to me. Especially with a 52 mounted on them.


well if those dont look big, everything else must look tee tiny.

they need a warning label on 52" tires and rockwell's

"Over exposure to items may skew your concept of size!":flipoff2:

or maybe its just all that cold air:D

Originally posted by braxton357


Get the fawk over yourself:rolleyes: Like there is ever anything posted in the fucking scout section anyway. :shaking: asshat. The shit you post is just chock-full of tech also...


Jack-off much internet boy?

While you're doing that...stare at this. :)

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/030104-cuttofit_6798.jpg

Nice...this is only after wire wheeling.

Soooo you're running a Dana 20 to a NP200 to Rockwells? Ya think that 20 is gonna hold up?

The 20 being in front of a 200 in low and behind a 198 IH slant 4???

I'm getting a big school bus from a truck yard for free.

Step #1: Cut the back 12 feet long ~4 feet high off and save it for a cool camper top for the M35. (yeah!)

Step #2: Strip all the stuff off and put a pintle hitch/tongue on the thing for instant triler action!

Man...I just called the guy to confirm that he was going to be there at 4PM to hand him the money. He knew this since sunday night that wednesday was the day. I even called him last night to confirm that he was going to be there but no answer.

"I sold it last night to another guy" Hua???? I guess he thought he was doing me a favor since I mentioned that I was going to take the top off and possibly load my scout into the back. So he told me I could buy a different one for $400 less.

The only problem is that I'm not sure I want another one because I knew everything about this one. I don't want a naturally aspirated diesel, I want the LDT-465-1D engine.

He said the cab on this one is better. Oh well, I'm driving out there thursday night to make sure this "better" one is actually "better".



I'm getting the school bus on friday and have no M35 to pull it with.

Below is the one I was planning on driving home saturday morning:

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/030304-philldeuce_1506.jpg

I was just thinking of those 53's. It's only a $35 Dana 20 so nothing to worry about. Forgot to mention I bought a HT 1250 for $2k. Still need to wire up the control box for my table before I can start making my own orange smoke. :evil:

This is the best thread I have read in a while. I'll be checking in for progress often. Keep those pics comming. Grant, You'd fit in just fine around here. lol

this thread rocks, you are my hero, can i have your babies?

Updates?? :D

My digital camera finally died (I think?). So I can't update the thread until I get 1 hour of DV footage of the build up. I think I've got 30 minutes so far. 30 to go. ;)

6,901 pictures...fairly good service life.

I was just going to ask if there were any updates and now I find out I gotta wait more??? Oh well, its for a good reason... video!


:edit: maybe a mod will delete all the crap and leave the tech?

Here is some serious verbal tech for you scouters...

I decided that I could make my ride height 8" lower if I did some frame modifications. My frame was limiting panhard travel by 4" alone.

So I chopped the front frame .75 away from the engine mounts on each side of the 3L engine.

I ended up raiseing the frame up by about 14 inches. The front frame rail is just at about level with the center of the fan and valve covers. Looks kinda cool.

I decided to push the rockwell forward some more too. The new bumpstop will be either the drive shaft hitting the engine mount or the rockwell chunk hitting the fan, which ever comes first. The only thing I worry about is loosing the pass side radius arm and the rockwell mating with my engine pulley. Would be hard to recover a vehicle with no water pump. :(

Some one a few miles away from me is getting rid of a 4x4 oshkosh snow blower. 300HP at 1000RPM, speedo goes up to 40 or something like that. Weighs 27k and the axles aren't top loaders

So I might get that for the axles. Who knows. The thing is rated to move 400 tons of snow per hour!!! 15gal/hr gasoline!

Hey, video? I've got about 5 or 6 hours of scout buggy build action already. Going to make a small segment for the movie I'm making. I've got some cool video of a floor jack breaking, which releases the scout. Then I get my handyman highlift malfunctions and somehow the handle hits me in the head.

Price on square tube/pipe in ak is now .91/lb. :mad: :mad: :mad:

Plate is now .79, and it was .49 on 02/06/04. :( :( :(

Originally posted by Urban Wheeler
I was just going to ask if there were any updates and now I find out I gotta wait more??? Oh well, its for a good reason... video!


:edit: maybe a mod will delete all the crap and leave the tech? Does this include your post?

Well, here it goes. I'm not going to post any pictures of the final front suspension quite yet. I thought you guys should at least have something to look at after waiting 20 days.

It got really cold last week, so all I did was play with my NP200.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-tcase01-juststarted_6949.jpg
Here is the thing. Looks just like the day brook gave it to me. Told me that there was dirt and water inside, so it would need to be cleaned out. I guess thats why we threw it off the trailer into the dirt bank. ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-tcase02-pointofnoreturn_6957.jpg
Man, point of no return! It was a little more than I'd expected to find (there are over 150 unretained roller bearings), but I can handle it/ Good experience I guess.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-tcase03-partsondesk_6977.jpg
Its going to be really fun comparing these gears to the D20 stuff. That output gear in the front is just as big as the D20 is round... The nice thing about the NP200 is that all the splined shafts are the same, there are only two sizes of tapered roller bearings, and one size of oil seal. This is the way things are supposed to work.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-tcase-loaner_6975.jpg
Here is the idler gear set and front output shaft.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-tcase04-idlershaft_6972.jpg
Here is my idler shaft. "Remove with a plastic hammer" said the manual...1" aluminum and some full arm swing blows with a hammer got it out about 1/4" at a time!!!

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-tcase05-sandblasted_6986.jpg
Everything is sooo clean now!

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-tcase06-thismakesiteasy_6988.jpg
Again, this is the way things are supposed to be. Makes it easy to tell what the low ratio is, right?

More later...

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-buggy01-snowscene_6913.jpg
The last snow dump in march gave my back yard quite a bit of snow. How annoying... 50 degree weather for a full week and then 15-20 degree weather for another week. This week is supposed to be full of 40-50 again, so let the building speed begin.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-buggy02-snowdepth_6917.jpg
Middle of the driveway...

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-buggy03-framechop-032904-1-38.jpg
Didn't want to get too close to the engine mount. ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-buggy04-handmeitercut-032904-1-48.jpg
All my miter cuts are done following a line with no guide. My chop saw is not accurate at any angle, including 0* (the deck isn't level). Here is an example before a grinder clean-up job. Little bit of a fart in the right corner, but there are 4 starts/stops there. ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-buggy05-framechoponotherside-032904-1-40.jpg
Other side frame chop. Both sides are cut to the same angle.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-buggy06-beginningtomakeit-032904-1-42.jpg
The process begins!

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-buggy07-aligntheframe-032904-1-56.jpg
I needed to make my own apparatus!!! :) Picture this...there is only ONE crossmember on the scout, and its 13 feet behind the front frame rail. The engine mounts are inbound on the frame, so the frame is looking slightly like this: / \

I used the rigid pipe stand to jack the new crossmember up. I spot welded a piece of angle (and vice griped it) to the drivers frame rail. This pulled it in towards the drivers frame rail. I also removed the / \ by the below process.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-buggy08-comealong-032904-1-60.jpg
I hooked a comealong to the old axle bumpstops and cranked that thing til it started making funny noises. Then I used the highlift to push the upper frame apart.

Amazingly, everything ended up being perfect. ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-buggy09-framealignedforwelding-032904-1-61.jpg

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-buggy10-weldingframe-032904-1-52.jpg

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-buggy11-framefinished_6926.jpg

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-buggy12finishedframe2_6928.jpg
Maybe the winch will have to go in the rear... :D

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040304-buggy14-rideheight_6931.jpg
Take this... and I've got 6.5" of uptravel. :) My driveshaft is also completely above the upper links of the front suspension. This is turning out pretty good.

Also, I will be adding reinforcements to the front frame. I don't expect toe _/ to do too much all by itself.

My bushings for the rear are supposed to be shipped on the 11th. I'm cutting the D20 in half next week too. Only need half of it anyway.

Originally posted by SirMrManGuy
Does this include your post?

This one and that one, yeah. There is a lot of non-tech, a troll or two, and many words of encouragement and appreciation. Lots of us are interested in what he is doing, both with the Scout and the homebrew plasma torch, but I don't think many of us want to scroll through nine pages and pick up a littl here and there. That's all.

Grant, didn't you read this thread? (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=147462&highlight=hilift) :flipoff2:

Hey, highlift scares me to death now. You know, I got whacked in the head while kneeling on the ground and pulling on the handle. ;)

I could not imagine I was reading real posts in that thread. People talking about getting under a vehicle with the word highlift in the same paragraph. Man..

More pictures to slow down the interent. still catching up

More pictures to slow down the internet...

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040504-buggy01-newradiusarm_7024.jpg
Radius arm. I made one out of 1.5sch80, but it looked like a straw. :TD:

Does that look small? Its 2.5x2.5x.25 square tubing. ;)

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040504-buggy02-allthewaydown_7022.jpg
Hit the hard stop.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040504-buggy02.5-hardbumpstop_7021.jpg
This is at about the 6.5" position out of a possible 9" uptravel. If I push the axle forward another inch then this will become my new bumpstop.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040504-buggy06-otherfuturehardstop_7019.jpg
If I move the axle forward to gain uptravel then I might have to remove the fuel pump.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040504-buggy03-allthewayup_7023.jpg
This is at the 13" position. So it would be about 4-5" droop in real life

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040504-buggy04-rideheight_7017.jpg
Ride height

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040504-buggy05-hardstopheight_7018.jpg
Hard stop. Its hard to tell from the image perspective. The frame to ground distance would be about 20.5 here.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040504-buggy07-panhardframesidebracket_7035.jpg
New panhard brackets.

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040504-buggy08-springplates_7034.jpg
Coil spring plates. They all look like little alien heads. :shock:

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040504-buggy09-bottomspringplateinstalled_7030.jpg
Here is the bottom. I prebent the bottom one, but now I'm not sure that was necessary. :D

http://media.diywelder.com/images2/040504-buggy10-topspringplateinstalled_7033.jpg
Here is the top one.

Still going through images...it is VERY warm outside. I will be doing a lot this week. :) Picture 7033 of a necessary 10000 to buy a new camera...

sweet, looks like youll be rolling in no time:D

Originally posted by Logjam-grant
Hey, highlift scares me to death now. You know, I got whacked in the head while kneeling on the ground and pulling on the handle. ;)


That thread convinced me to not buy the Harbor Freight version. I got looking at it and the handle is welded in.

i envy you and your plasma cutter/CNC machine. all i got it a sazall, a 4" grinder, and a stick welder hahaha. oh well, its looking really good. those tires are insane. that thing is going to be a bitch to turn, they are going to rub on everything hahaha.

Ha, ha, I knocked your p.o.s. down to 4 stars!!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Blind Driver
Ha, ha, I knocked your p.o.s. down to 4 stars!!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

nice 1st post :rolleyes:

your p.o.s.



http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=2611544

Originally posted by Blind Driver
Ha, ha, I knocked your p.o.s. down to 4 stars!!!:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

you sir are a waste of sperm and egg.

Doesn't anyone on the windy plains of Wyoming use commas anymore?:shaking:

hey grant... it's been over 3 weeks!... you didn't blow youeself up or anything did ya?... how about an update.

wow, did a search and this thread came up.... Good stuff! LOL


Good enough to bring it back to the top of your forum....

I've got a few hundred pictures that I need to filter and post.

What I've done:
-Finished and sanded all rims (painting tonight)
-Finished front suspension (bouncing on jack stands right now)
-Removed direct drive fan for ever
-Bought a Taurus fan from jeenjer for $55! :) 25A at 15v in free air
-Looked at the cut in half D20
-Pounded my flange yoke onto the D20. Guess it will be as much of a mechanical fit as it can get...
-Pounded it off a few times
-Finished the alternator mig welder to weld the rims
-Bought one 320A and one 270A alternator for the buggy, forgot about the 60A in the scrap pile... :)
-Daily Driving the M35...53-55 MPH resting on the rev limiter
-There is more, but I can't think of it.

2 weeks, any news?

Might want to post on his board http://www.akfabshop.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=18&sid=a6603c3080db89946c4b7969c6721178

Its been a while, anything new?

I have to revive this thread. We can't let it die :)

its not dead, we are just waiting for a meaningful post.

What I've done:

-Pounded it off a few times

-There is more, but I can't think of it.

this seems to take up about 90% of all buildups :flipoff2: