OK I searched and it looks like some people think Hockey pucks are evil and should not be used. Others think they are OK.

I know some of you are running hockey pucks. the talk about Canadian vs American pucks seams like BS to me. I am not sure but putting a hose clamp around the outside sounds a bit funky. I think I agree with the idea of running a sleeve down the middle of the puck.

I only want a small 1 inch lift. I am cheap. Is this a good way to go?

Ritch

I run Chez pucks :flipoff2:


At any rate, make sure you sleeve them and use fender washers top and bottom. The only thing I can you is they work great, but.... It appears the pucks allow for more body movement. When I cut the drivers front mount out I noticed the sleeve in the poly body bushings was tearing away from the poly. I assume from excessive movement caused from the pucks or hard wheeling. The pass side is not out but I can tell it is beat the hell and bent and mangled.

Joe

Joe,

Thanks for the advice. what do you think about the hose clamp around the outside of the puck?

Ritch

Once you add up the cost of the pucks, the hose clamps, and the sleeves, how much are you really saving over a $60-70 body lift made the right way?

Originally posted by nwmud
Joe,

Thanks for the advice. what do you think about the hose clamp around the outside of the puck?

Ritch

Not needed, the pucks are fine after 2 1/2 years.

Originally posted by Sully
Once you add up the cost of the pucks, the hose clamps, and the sleeves, how much are you really saving over a $60-70 body lift made the right way?

8 Pucks $8
8 Sleeves $8
16 washers $1.00
8 Grade bolts $10

Total cost $27.00

I didn't want more then 1", I only wanted a little extra clearance between the frame and the tub.

I've seen several two year old hockey puck lifts, and I didn't like what I saw. The rubber deteriorates, and pretty soon all the weight is being supported by the sleeve, and that is not a pretty sight.

OTOH, I have never seen a body lift *fail*, i.e., a tub fall off a body lift. So, while it does not seem safe to me, I have never seen, or heard, of an instance where using pucks led to any serious problem.

When I was kicking around my body lift, I tried to find some nylon rod to use, but it was harder to find than I expected. Finally, a friend of mine that works at a metal shop just cut some square stock into pucks, center bored them, then cut the corners off to make an octagon. I used large fender washers above and below, as well as around the new poly body bushings, and they work very well. Still very tight, even three years later, and cost almost nothing.

personnaly I am not a big fan of Body Lifts. BUT I am having a problem with my radiator clearing since I dropped the rear trans mount. Need to to get the right angle for the driveline. I know I should get a high angle driveline.

BUT unemployment in two weeks makes me follow the cheaper paths. I have been working for Boeing as a designer for 16 years. I am now un-employable in the real world - need to get new training in some other field.

Any way, I have a huge amount of suspension lift on the rig. With the triming and new wheel spacing (107.5") I recently lowered the truck 3 inches in the front to get the truck more driveable. I still need the BL to get the clearance under the hood I need.

I will buy the Hockey pucks and go this route. The price works for me and as soon as I get a few more parts sold (i.e half cab, and trac-loc) I will be able to finish buying the other parts I need to get the rig on the road.

Ritch

Originally posted by nwmud
personnaly I am not a big fan of Body Lifts. BUT I am having a problem with my radiator clearing since I dropped the rear trans mount. Need to to get the right angle for the driveline. I know I should get a high angle driveline.

BUT unemployment in two weeks makes me follow the cheaper paths. I have been working for Boeing as a designer for 16 years. I am now un-employable in the real world - need to get new training in some other field.

Any way, I have a huge amount of suspension lift on the rig. With the triming and new wheel spacing (107.5") I recently lowered the truck 3 inches in the front to get the truck more driveable. I still need the BL to get the clearance under the hood I need.

I will buy the Hockey pucks and go this route. The price works for me and as soon as I get a few more parts sold (i.e half cab, and trac-loc) I will be able to finish buying the other parts I need to get the rig on the road.

Ritch

What is wrong with correctly done body lifts? Mine has given me no problems, it looks fine asthetically, and it helps with a lot of issues, while only requiring moderate fab skills to install...

Originally posted by Hooper


What is wrong with correctly done body lifts? Mine has given me no problems, it looks fine asthetically, and it helps with a lot of issues, while only requiring moderate fab skills to install...

Nothing is wrong with your lift. I don't remeber - are you running aluminum or steel?
I could easily get some 1 in stock and chop it up, drill it out and install it. But I have not seen any 1 thick scrape at Everett Steel lately.

ALso what is the purpose of the fender washers when running a solid puck anyway? I would think the solid piece is stronger with the washers.

Ritch

The PO installed pucks on my scout ther holding up good but its the body around the pucks thats the problem :rolleyes:

Originally posted by nwmud


Nothing is wrong with your lift. I don't remeber - are you running aluminum or steel?
I could easily get some 1 in stock and chop it up, drill it out and install it. But I have not seen any 1 thick scrape at Everett Steel lately.

ALso what is the purpose of the fender washers when running a solid puck anyway? I would think the solid piece is stronger with the washers.

Ritch

Actually, I was more interested in why you don't like body lifts in general, not mine specifically.

I used fender washers because my body lift blocks were the same diameter point to point as the body bushing, but the flats of the octagon were slightly smaller in diameter than the poly bushings. That meant my blocks *might* cut into the bushings at the corners of the blocks. The washers extended out past the bushings, so the load was distributed correctly, and smoothly.

Mine are steel, powder coated. Could have used aluminum, but steel is stronger, and what is an extra pound or two on one of these rigs?

http://www.ihssii.org/Hooper/Images-Technical/RearMidBushing.jpg


http://ftp.vandermeerfp.com.xohost.com/Wheeling/Misc/LiftBlock.jpg

Thanks for the info.

Body Lifts in General - I don't like the center of gravity up any higher than it must be.

I figure with the amount of lift my rig has - the body lift is coming because I really need to get my engine position worked out better. The BL is far cheaper than bhaving a custom Driveline made.

I have to buy new bolts for the body mounts anyways so I was planning on getting a litlle longer to accomidate a small lift. this will solve many problems I am having.

I still thinks it's crazy when I see trucks with 3, 4, 5 or more body lifts. I think the state only allows 2 or 3 inches of body lift.

So does this explain my feeling on the subject.

Ritch

Originally posted by nwmud
Thanks for the info.

Body Lifts in General - I don't like the center of gravity up any higher than it must be.

I figure with the amount of lift my rig has - the body lift is coming because I really need to get my engine position worked out better. The BL is far cheaper than bhaving a custom Driveline made.

I have to buy new bolts for the body mounts anyways so I was planning on getting a litlle longer to accomidate a small lift. this will solve many problems I am having.

I still thinks it's crazy when I see trucks with 3, 4, 5 or more body lifts. I think the state only allows 2 or 3 inches of body lift.

So does this explain my feeling on the subject.

Ritch

Sure. But, if COG is the concern, than a 2 inch suspension lift increases the COG more than a 2 inch body lift.

Extreme body lifts, I agree, are silly. To me, 2 is pushing it, but I have seen 3 inch that looked OK. Just an awful lot of leverage on the body mount bolts, and they get pretty durn long when you get up that high!!! Build to fit.... ;)

My main concern was getting flex.
I wanted my truck to articulate. someday when my axles blow up (20 feet on the first trail) I will get better gears. but my lift with tires has got to be at least 15 inches. not bad for stock springs.... stock ford springs :D

I figure it's a scout - how fast can I possibly go on a trail.
Stupid people scare me so I don't like the freeway where they live.

My truck may end up being a daily driver - but I hope not. :D

Originally posted by nwmud
My main concern was getting flex.
I wanted my truck to articulate. someday when my axles blow up (20 feet on the first trail) I will get better gears. but my lift with tires has got to be at least 15 inches. not bad for stock springs.... stock ford springs :D

I figure it's a scout - how fast can I possibly go on a trail.
Stupid people scare me so I don't like the freeway where they live.

My truck may end up being a daily driver - but I hope not. :D

Well, hurry up and finish it so we can see how well it flexes on the trail!!! (I know, I know, Boeing set your plans back a bit....:( )

Originally posted by Hooper
http://ftp.vandermeerfp.com.xohost.com/Wheeling/Misc/LiftBlock.jpg
Pat, that's a hexagon, not an octogon. :flipoff2: :D :flipoff2:

Originally posted by TORC

Pat, that's a hexagon, not an octogon. :flipoff2: :D :flipoff2:

Oh yeah. Hexagon.
Pentagon, Hegagon, Octagon


Gone, gone, gone.... :D :D :D

Holy shit....eighteen posts on hockey pucks:rolleyes: Why not start a rubber vs. metal valve-stem thread:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Lama
Holy shit....eighteen posts on hockey pucks:rolleyes: Why not start a rubber vs. metal valve-stem thread:flipoff2:

We can't all be hard core and talk about shackle lifts and add a leafs all day, now can we??? :D :D :D

Originally posted by Hooper


We can't all be hard core and talk about shackle lifts and add a leafs all day, now can we??? :D :D :D


Uhumm, reverse shackle lift to be correct.:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Lama



Uhumm, reverse shackle lift to be correct.:flipoff2:

Nope nope nope.... I did not do a reverse shackle - I have a 54" inch front leaves from a old ford 2wd pick up. However my front (girlie) shackles are 1 inch thick, 3 inches wide and 10 inches long. 8 inches of length between bolts. My wife made them :flipoff2: She wanted to help build the truck so she won't feel bad when she uses it to compete and not break her junk.

So in closing - pucks are OK but blocks (like Hoopers) work too.

So what is this about rubber vs. metal valve-stem - is this important :D

Originally posted by nwmud


Nope nope nope.... I did not do a reverse shackle - I have a 54" inch front leaves from a old ford 2wd pick up. However my front (girlie) shackles are 1 inch thick, 3 inches wide and 10 inches long. 8 inches of length between bolts. My wife made them :flipoff2: She wanted to help build the truck so she won't feel bad when she uses it to compete and not break her junk.

So in closing - pucks are OK but blocks (like Hoopers) work too.

So what is this about rubber vs. metal valve-stem - is this important :D

If you will be competing in the rig what you use for body mounts may be a mute point. The cage needs to be tied into the frame, I don't suggest using the body mount bolts through the pad of the cage. You'll need to sandwich the body between the frame tie and hoops. You can isolate it with a pad, or better use a bushing at the end of the frame tie.

That is a good point - I plan to get it on the trails/road long before she ever gets a chance to break it. If she ever does get into the comp side of life I would prefer to build her a rig for that purpose rather than upgrade mine so she can break my junk.

But for now - while I am getting trained for a new career doing ??? I plan to get my stuff drivable.

Joe,

Your stuff has pucks in it - right?

Yes

http://thisdysfunctional.org/jduarte/rocker/rckd209S.jpg