Can someone out there confirm what ujoint driveshaft will replace the rotoflex driveshaft on my '95 D1?

Currently I have 3" RTE lift, with new RTE radius arms I have a front drive shaft vibe. At present my best idea for resolving this issue is to use a GBR driveshaft. Any comments?

However at present I have a bigger issue. On even a fairly moderate trail, my rotoflextwisted and turned to the point that the flange and driveshaft bolts made contact. Because of this I removed the rear driveshaft and am looking for a fairly inexpensive fix until I can get a GBR back there. What UJoint driveshaft will work? I have been told older model (1988 and older) Range Rover shaft will work if I replace the flange and use a spacer.

Is this correct or will other year RR driveshafts work. Any experience with this? Comments?

Thanks for any help you might be able to provide, I know this is likely a simple question for many of you!

Cheers! Brian

I'm pretty sure the rear shaft out of a 89 RRC will work. Be advised you have to replace the pinion flange with the correct unit from the RRC. You may have a bad time getting the original off as it was put on with red loctite. Heating will help.

I'm always surprised that some Disco's seem to have a more severe problem tearing up rotoflex joints. I'm only on my 2nd one in 70K miles with 3" lift and 12" travel shocks. The first one still rides as a spare in my box as it wasn't trashed when it was replaced.

keith
:usa:

Edit...

I just found a list of PN's from someone who had this done. Might help. Didn't bother checking to see what these parts were used in...

1ea. FRC8387 Propshaft, R
1ea. STC3722 Flange, &Muds
1ea. 53975 Washer
8ea. NZ606041L Nut, Self-loc
4ea. 509045P Bolt, Propshaft

GL

Any RR classic rear shaft will work 87-95. As stated, you will need a new pinion flange. There are two types of pinion flange, the earlier style is a 4 spline flange, and won't work, you need the later style with 30something splines.

-Jeff

Anyone have recommendations on what to use to pull the flange out?

I have heard the same thing about it being tough to get out. Will a baby propane torch be enough heat?

This is the third roto that I am one w/ 92k miles. However this one was new and got trashed from just a bit of thrashing. I have done much more thrashing with less lift and did not have any immediate issues with the roto.

Thanks!

Originally posted by Discosaurus


Edit...

I just found a list of PN's from someone who had this done. Might help. Didn't bother checking to see what these parts were used in...

1ea. FRC8387 Propshaft, R
1ea. STC3722 Flange, &Muds
1ea. 53975 Washer
8ea. NZ606041L Nut, Self-loc
4ea. 509045P Bolt, Propshaft

GL

Now I remember - this is a PN list for dealer replacement of Disco rear DS. Some 95-97 trucks had vibration problems that wouldn't go away. LRNA's solution to 'customer satisfaction' :rolleyes: was to ditch the entire rotoflex shaft for a more traditional unit. I think after 97 they got a clue and just went back to UJ's all together.

Actually, it's the centering pin stuck inside the flange that's red loctited. Once you get that out and spin off the nut, it pretty much falls off. If you're not re-using the pin, anything goes - heat, air chisel, explosives...

keith
:usa:

The most elegant way to remove the centering pin that I have heard of is to place a large deepwell socket over the pin, run a bolt through it and tighten a nut against the socket...

Peace,
Paul

Originally posted by PTSchram
The most elegant way to remove the centering pin that I have heard of is to place a large deepwell socket over the pin, run a bolt through it and tighten a nut against the socket...


The only time I ever tried to get one out was when I needed to replace a rear pinion shaft seal. It wouldn't budge with any kind of pulling fixture I tried to rig and refused to yield to heat. At the time, that seal HAD to be replaced in short order, so I bit the bullet and took it to the shop figuring they would have some authorized way of beating it in to submission.

They ended up putting a cutting wheel on it (they left a nice groove in the third member housing). So much for factory authorized...

BTW Brian, be careful how much heat you use as you can trash the seal.

GL

keith
:usa:

BTW...I just so happen to have a rear driveline off of a RRC SWB, that is freshly rebuilt, balanced and sports a nice glossy black sheen.

I also have the pinion flange...if anyone is interested.

:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Serious One
BTW...I just so happen to have a rear driveline off of a RRC SWB, that is freshly rebuilt, balanced and sports a nice glossy black sheen.

I also have the pinion flange...if anyone is interested.

:flipoff2:

I'm very interested. PM your asking price please!

Originally posted by Old Scout


I'm very interested. PM your asking price please!


ONE....Meeeeeeeeeelion...DOLLARS!