Recently, I installed RT 5" sprints, 2" bodylift, and 12" bilstein 7100 SB shocks. Disco 2 shock towers in the front. 15x10 allied beadlocks (less backspacing than stock, I need to measure them) with 35x12.5 BFG MTs. 8" additional track width.

Also had to do some fender trimming, shorten the rock sliders in front (thanks ali!) and get some 2 foot long flexible brake hoses for the front.

Rear axle has existing GBR 24 spline hd shafts, 4.1s and a detroit. front has the new GBR CVs, hd shafts, and existing true track/4.1s.

Existing front DDC driveshaft. stock rear driveshaft.

Here are a couple of overall pics:

2

3

shot of rear spring under "full" compression. right now the rear tires hit the rear bumper riser, and come very close to the rear door. there are 4" of compression left on the shock. I am planning on raising the lower shock mounts about 1.5" to get a little more drop travel.. It looks like I will have to modify the rear doors or move the axle back to get the optimum travel out of my suspension. Moving the axle back is difficult because the fuel filler is in the way of the bumper riser on the pass side (the bumper would have to be cut and the risers moved back-not a big deal)

oops.. the pic

rear door & slider clearance

rear shock under compression. still a bunch of travel left, but it maxes out during drop. moving the lower mount up will help that.

another

rear shock full droop

What do you guys think? What would you do about the rear--I'm leaning toward modifiying the doors. I wonder how much it would cost to have a body shop cut down the frame and rewrap the skin? Or maybe I can do it, I don't know. I do know that I want to keep it looking good, and I will avoid flares at all costs (unless the law makes me put them on). so far so good.

I will send you some pics of how I did my friend Brian's truck,

He is running 35x12.5X15
15" rims ???offset???
3 - 3.5" lift
Slightly longer trailing arms
and some trimming

the only place that the tires rub are at the top of the rear wheel well stuffed, but that was resolved with a 2" steel block added to the bump stop.

if you take your time with the trimming and roll the edges you can do it without it looking bad or needing flares.

I ran 35x12.50s for one week (just trying them out). Basically i only had a 4" lift, and all i had to do was cut the rear door and fender a bit and i got full travel out of my 9005s.

Brad

now that's what i call a swell ride!
kudos to you alex!!!!!
that's what a disco should look like!
marc :flipoff2:

Looks great.

I don't think all the work involved in getting that little bit more upward travel is going to be worth it. You have really good upward travel as it is.

I would get the max out of the downward movement by playing around with the shock mounts as yu suggested and pack out the bump stop to compensate upwards...

Fantastic job you have done so far - very tidy.

Time to get out and dent it :flipoff2:

Out of curiosity how is the stock rear DS handling 5"'s of spring lift? Got that rythmic humming feeling by any chance?

Darkstar...great work.

As far as upward travel is concerned and the rear door, the more you have of the 1st and the less of the 2nd the better :flipoff2:

After installing my flares myself, I'd really prefer simply cutting the hell out of everything, including the doors, without the flares, however, certains competitions require that the tires be covered, so I was obliged to have them. Cutting the first door was tough, the second was very very easy. You'd be extremely amazed how easy it is to cut both the inner and outer linings, fold the outer one, and paint it for a professional job. At one point, I was really considering this.

I truely believe with extreme cutting, a 2" body lift, and a 2" suspension lift, people can easily fit 37-38" tires. The flares actually do not cut to the limit, as there is still 2-3 cm that can be cut.

Good Luck

Darkstar...great work.

Looks great.



Thanks..and there was a lot of it:D

As far as upward travel is concerned and the rear door, the more you have of the 1st and the less of the 2nd the better

I don't think all the work involved in getting that little bit more upward travel is going to be worth it. You have really good upward travel as it is.

I would get the max out of the downward movement by playing around with the shock mounts as yu suggested and pack out the bump stop to compensate upwards...



I have to go with DiscoDino here--I've already put so much time and $$$ into it, that I may as well finish it and make it perfect.

Also, my bump stops are already extended 6" from before, and the axle is still not touching it under articulation, only under total uptravel (both wheels)


Out of curiosity how is the stock rear DS handling 5"'s of spring lift? Got that rythmic humming feeling by any chance?

A little, starting at 70MPH. Not as bad as I expected. Eventually I'll throw a DDC shaft in the rear too, but its no emergency.

More pics to come as I finish it up.

Alex, have you hit anything at speed yet to cause both wheels to come up at the same time? Mine rubbed in this manner more than they rubbed during alternate flexing.

Looks damn sweet. Like my truck on (more) steriods! Great job. I am jealous of your lack of dents. You definately now have the Big Dawg Willow Green disco in IL.

Gotta run, off to the tire shop. :flipoff2:

Tom

"We can have high times if you'll abide " it looks like you have abided that disco nicely !!

It's like lego, once you make the model according to the kit you then tear it apart and start making a Super Lego with all the bits and pieces you have in your box from all the kits. . Your Super Lego has begun...

Looks GREAT!!!!

Originally posted by DiscoDino

I truely believe with extreme cutting, a 2" body lift, and a 2" suspension lift, people can easily fit 37-38" tires.

This is exactly what I'm planning on doing. Though I think I may go with some taller springs when the time comes, but I want to keep my COG as low as possible, and when I swap in the D60/70 I will definatly pick up some width which will be very nice in addition to the low COG. Of course, I'd already be done with this had I not blown out my damn engine. :mad:

Darkstar, your truck looks awesome. How do you like the Beadlocks so far? Are they holding pressure on the road(assuming you're running them on the road.)?

Originally posted by RVR OVR
Alex, have you hit anything at speed yet to cause both wheels to come up at the same time? Mine rubbed in this manner more than they rubbed during alternate flexing.

Looks damn sweet. Like my truck on (more) steriods! Great job. I am jealous of your lack of dents. You definately now have the Big Dawg Willow Green disco in IL.

Gotta run, off to the tire shop. :flipoff2:

Tom

Also, be mindfull of those "at speed bumps". You know, like jumping eh LWG? Anyway, I have cut an inch, have OVER 5 inches of lift, (I quit measuring) and I have STILL managed to dent the metal on the arches.

There is just NO way you can really tell your travel on a ramp or by cycling the suspension. Hitting a mogul at 15mph will, or 30 for that matter. (ask me how I know)

j

Three of them hold air great-no leaks at all. One is losing about 5lbs overnight. I haven't put it in a tub of water yet to find the source of the leak. I also have another wheel and tire in my garage (spare) that I have not gotten around to mounting yet--been procrastinating because it is such a PITA.

DarkStar

Our rigs look almost identical, good job

I went with 31" ProComp X Terrains on my Allied Bead locks, the Disco is still the part time family truxter…

With a zero out static balance there sill way out dynamically and @ 65 to 70 mph you need a mouth guard to protect the teeth. During the transition to highway speed it does calm down a bit above 70

Did you balance yours? The sales rep Greg from Allied recommends Pixie dust ((Equal) most of the posts I’ve read most of the posts on it’s use and it seems a 50 50 love it or hate it opinions.

Any help would be appreciated

D

dee@roverbiz.com

I tried equal in my last set of tires and was not impressed. these actually balanced out pretty well--I drive the truck to work every day (50 mile round trip). Highway speeds around here are aroud 70-75mph. Drives fine.

Alex-did you ever get any pics of your fuel pump so inquiring minds could see what the visible physical differences between the advanced evap system and conventional was?

Up for another Badlands trip in August (maybe Haspin Acres?)? I'm Jonesing for mud and rocks!

Peace,
Paul

Attica...I'm up for attica this weekend. I have yet to get this thing dirty!!

As far as the fuel pump, I will take some pics for you and post them this weekend.

This weekend is out, maybe next or the weekend after. I also want to get down to the Hoosier National Forest, or Maybe Dan'l Boone-I think there are some parts I left down there in one of the hollers!

Lemme know when those trips are happening. I have never wheeled in those places and can use a break from the Attica same old same old. That is of course, unless the truck sells.

Tom

<hijack apology on> As it looks like I've accidentally accepted responsibility for a trip, I'll have to check the calendar and maybe talk to some folks about each of the two places to see what's available. Ike might know of some things down his neck of the woods. Kentucky is a free-for-all, but body damage tends to be pretty likely :flipoff2: <hijack apology off>

Paul

disco looks great.

John is correct, I thought I didn't hit at all until fully compressing the axle (i.e. jumping truck) I then found out where things hit.

Also correct on the ramping. definitely take it easy on your first off-road trip noting where it hits so you don't cut up those new tires. Once you get everything tuned in then beat the piss out of it!:flipoff2:

Paul, Tom, and Darkstar I am up for a trip. I got some pretty dents now :p

Oh yea that is nice! I like how it looks, wish mine looked like that!

here are some more misc pics I took atfter tying up a few loose ends this morning.

Eleveated lower rear shock mounts from under the axle to 1.5" above (1" spacer, plus the mount itself is 1/2" thick.)

another angle

and another

Raised lower front shock mounts 1"

another angle - DS

another angle - PS

shot of front suspension under full droop. notice how far the spring comes off its perch. anyone got any ideas on retaining these (ther than hose clamps...that may be too bootie fab, even for me:eek: )

shot of front suspension at ride height

d'oh!

You'll really appreciate those rear bottom shock mounts being higher. I don't seem to get hung up on them near as much now.

Regarding the front springs. Hose Clamps do work, you can paint them black. I run the really long (20.5") front Rovertym springs in the front, and they don't unseat when flexing.

I think RTE have corrected their "faulty" lower rear shock mounts with something that is more tucked up. Ironically, the new ones look like the ones I have done, simple 6mm steel shaped like a "U" with a hole in the bottom to be bolted in place of the "pin" and a bolt accross for the "eye"...

Yeah, I saw those on the website. It looks like those will put the shock at even more of a rake, which I don't really want. It increases travel, but decreases dampening. I think ideally both the front and rears should be on an angle that is a bit less than my rears are at now.

Alex,
where did you mount your front shock reservoirs?

thanks
-Will Roeder

use hose clamps run two of them and keep a spare or two around I've had the same ones on my truck for almost two years and I've definately abused my truck more than once and they seem to hold on. You can paint them black or just keep them pretty chrome. You can make retainers for the front but they are a hassle or you can buy the ones from rover accessories if you don't mind spending money.
-ben

They are mounted to the inner front fenders. you can see the hose clamps in the side shots a few messages up. the rears are mounted to the rear frame crossmember with hose clamps (i moved them since taking the pics)

where excactly did you place them? got any pics? thanks

Alex,
How long are your front Brake Lines?

2 feet! I also re-routed the ABS wiring (even though the abs is disabled) along the flex brake hoses, so that doesn't get in the way anymore either.

It's hard to tell by the photo, but does your exhaust not heat up the fuel tank on long trips where you have it cut ??

Originally posted by TallBrad
It's hard to tell by the photo, but does your exhaust not heat up the fuel tank on long trips where you have it cut ??


My exhaust is nearly identical to his and I don't think I have any problems. I suspect there is enough airflow under the lifted truck to keep it cool enough. And if there isn't and it heats up too much I just hope death comes with the initial explosure and I don't burn to death.;)

I do agree with Alex about having 24" long front brake lines. With the 2" BL and suspension drop (I think hehas more than I do...), they are ESSENTIAL. Luckily for me, no ABS crap to tag along for the ride.

Looking at the bumper on Alex's rig (RTE I guess), I am happy to see that my bumper follows somewhat the same principles albeit being uglier...:flipoff2: ...I guess form follows function and not otherwise. I WISH I could buy ALL the RTE stuff and ship them to Lebanon, but that'll be insane, + 1/2 the fun is building what you wheel...

How tall are the 5" springs? And also, how much offset do your radius arms have? Just curious, because your Radius arms look like they have about a 5 " offset, but then again it could just be the angle i am looking at it.

Brad

I never measured the springs off the truck. If you really want to know, you can extrapolate the free length from one of the side shots by comparing the length of the springs in the shot to the diameter of the brake rotor...

The radius arms have a 3" drop, supposedly. I never measured them when I put them on, but they actually incresed caster over stock in my previous config (2" bearmarch springs and 1" spacer in front), but that could have been because the springs had sagged somewhat.

The body lift allows easy mounting of the rear shock reservoirs to the rear frame crossmember.

Have to agree with Alex again (am I sounding like a cheerleader or what??)...2" Body Lift is GREAT. It opens the door to so many opportunities! Now...anyone figure how to relocate that fuel tank? I need to slap a winch there! :flipoff2:

Originally posted by DiscoDino
Have to agree with Alex again (am I sounding like a cheerleader or what??)...2" Body Lift is GREAT.

Alex, one important thing to feed back. Pay close attention to the feel of your rig at extreme lean angles vs. what it used to be like. I'm curious if you think the rig feels more top heavy now. Doing a cg heightening exercise to an already top heavy Disco (steel roof) is about the only issue I have with this mod.

Since you increased the track with the new wheels, maybe that will offset the effect a little...

keith
:usa:

Keith--I will if I ever get it in the dirt again :(

Here's My input (2" OME+2" BL on 32" TSL Radials on D110 wheels):

The truck is EXTREMELY stable, although you are "tricked" in feeling otherwise since you are effectively sitting 2" higher, although a fraction of the weight has transfered that distance, so the COG has not effectively gone up THAT much (maybe 1/2"??)...and this with the 16x5.5 rims that have the stock(ish) BS. I'm still waiting for the 36" SX which, along with 15x8 that are dead center (no offset), should increase the track by 3-4" and the wider tires should help as well...

All in all, the truck now feels MUCH more stable that with the 4" suspension lift I took off 2 years ago.

Ahhh...2" suspension lift...

That's good to hear Dino. I can accept the better feel since you cut down on spring height when you body lifted. Good compromise !

Alex, on the other hand, went from a 3" lift to a 5" lift when he raised the body. That's my concern.

I run a 3" lift with medium duty front springs and sometimes I feel a little tippy in 35 degree plus side slope stuff - without a body lift. But, for now, I'm still running stock back spacing on the wheels. I know RoverTyme John uses his own body lift and 5" springs and probably researched the heck out of the system before he made it available to the public, but it still concerns me.

Yes, I would like to do the mod (or get more serious about buying a Mog) but I want to learn from others, first. What a leech :D

keith
:usa: