OK i'm quite familiar with a normal SOA conversion since i did one on the rear of my truck myself with very good results. However i'm using a wagoneer D44 for my front SAS and i noticed that the passenger side spring perch is cast into the side of the pumpkin. This means that i will have to make 2 different perches to make them the same height (no biggie) but i'm worried about how to attach the perch because i've heard that you should never weld on cast iron cause it makes it really weak. is this true? what are your suggestions and what have people done? Thanks.


Dallas

go to your welding store and ask for some high alloy 500. or other brands of welding rod that is made for cast iron to steel. it's not that big a deal. but the stuff isn't cheap. mike

Im running a waggy 44 front in my SOA YJ. I ground a couple little grooves in the cast iron housing where the spring perch was going to sit. The groove were minor only like 1/16" deep. I set the perch in place and started heating the housing and perch up untill they were both fairly hot. Not quite glowing red hot, but hot, then I came through with a gasless Mig welder usinf fluxcore wire and layed out some FAT welds. really nice ones. Then the trick is to slowly cool the steel back down.. Dont just let the steel and cast cool down fast because it will cause the welds to crack.

Well thats what I did and walla never have had any problems with it what so ever. worked out awesome. alot easier than I thought it was going to be... :D

if you buy those expensive ($11 a set) generic spring perches, then stick ONE of them right next to the diff where you want a spring perch, then grind the cast steel pig away until you get a flat spot the same level as the perch, then grind the grooves for teh U bolts, it really doesnt take that much grinding.

and then youll have more steering arm to spring clearance if your planning a hi steer type setup.

Did SOA on many FSJs no need for any special welding. Just grind a place for the u-bolt(as mentioned earlier), and weld them on. Never saw one come off or crack yet, must be close to 10 years now. Of course some one out there is going to say that you can't do it this way, but we did it not knowing anything and aways worked. Used both MIG and stick AC.

Just placed the perch on the axle tube next to the cast part of the diff. Slide the perch next to the cast and use a marker to mark the arch of the cast. Turn the perch around and do the same on the other side. Cut along the marks you made. Now the perches are the same height, on the cast and the perch. Weld and have fun.

Just got done doing this my self..

TO weld cast to steel you need to preheat the entire area, Including the spring perch.. As someone mentioned Get some High nickle arc rods Once the whole area is preheated to 250 or a bove then you can safely weld the the perch on. The trick is to let it cool gradually because thats where most cast welds will crack and fail

With mine, I used one of the factory spring perches off the rear axle ground the axle side of the perch down flat and welded that to the ground down area of the axle. I think I used a Warrior spring perch on the other side and found it to be an 1/8th of an inch to low, I spaced it up and welded it on..

Heres how much I took out of the axle..

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=962921&a=13562526&p=52306920


Steve

how do you guys suggest keeping the heated axle/perch from cooling to fast??? just keep a torch with the oxy off clost to it or what? going to be doing this soon on a freinds rig

What we did was heat that section with a torch, Test it with a pyro meter, weld it, then retest it. if the perch was more then 60 degrees then the housing you want to reheat the housing.

We tested first on the perch, then on the housing.. I just let mine air cool. IT should be ok, they just both have to cool down at the same rate... The longer it takes to cool the better..

Got a sandbox for the kids? Throw it in abd bury it up ;)

How's it going Stinky? I'm fast on your heels.

Sorry, no advice for your perch.

:beer:

Here's a simpler plan. A friend of mine simply ground the cast down similar to the picture above but not as much. He then drilled a 9/16 hole a 1/2 inch deep for the locating pin and made a perch for the other side. Works like a charm and he was able to degree it at the same time. Done deal.