I'm in the process of building a pressure bleeder for my brakes, and want to install a pressure gauge on the tank so that I can keep track of the fluid pressure going into my brake system. Will the air pressure in the tank be the same as the fluid pressure that it's pushing through the lines, or should I put a gauge below the level of the fluid (or on the line going from the tank to the master cylinder)?

Originally I was planning on putting it up towards the top, but I just wanted to make sure this thing is built properly and gives me a correct reading when I do the work.

What's the highest pressure I should bleed an FJ62's brakes with anyway?

Originally posted by BumperJumper
Will the air pressure in the tank be the same as the fluid pressure that it's pushing through the lines, or should I put a gauge below the level of the fluid (or on the line going from the tank to the master cylinder)?

Originally I was planning on putting it up towards the top, but I just wanted to make sure this thing is built properly and gives me a correct reading when I do the work.

What's the highest pressure I should bleed an FJ62's brakes with anyway?

I think your gauge will be fine ontop. Anyway, its only purpose is let you see when the pressure drops in the tank...
As for which pressure to run, I say whatever the seal between the MC reservoir and the custom cap will allow... which shouldn't be much more than 0.5 to 1 bar I guess...

(I built the bleeder quite similar as what was posted on the 3FE list some time ago, without a gauge, though, and it seems to work decent...)

Originally posted by Stupid frnch jackasS
(I built the bleeder quite similar as what was posted on the 3FE list some time ago, without a gauge, though, and it seems to work decent...)

I'm actually doing a design similar to the one that was talked about on the 3FE list. Matter of fact it's based on the same bleeder that the 3FE bleeder was based on (but alot better and more versatile than both, of course :flipoff2: ). I'm integrating a moisture trap into the air supply and a couple safety features for those "just in case" scenarios that never happen when you plan for 'em but always happen when you don't...

mine was booty-fab engineered with whatever junk I had laying around :D :flipoff2:

could you elaborate on the versatility and just-in-case scenarii ?

If I was to modify mine, I would lengthen the hose between the tank and the custom cap, so that the tank can stay on the ground while the cap is still attached to the MC... which is not the case now on either of my monster-trucks :eek:

:beer:,

Originally posted by Stupid frnch jackasS
mine was booty-fab engineered with whatever junk I had laying around :D :flipoff2:

could you elaborate on the versatility and just-in-case scenarii ?

If I was to modify mine, I would lengthen the hose between the tank and the custom cap, so that the tank can stay on the ground while the cap is still attached to the MC... which is not the case now on either of my monster-trucks :eek:

:beer:,

Some of the stuff I've taken into consideration are:

7' of hose from the tank to the MC to accomodate for lifted trucks (such as my own if I ever get the damn money).
A quick disconnect at the compressor connection on the tank to allow for easy setup and takedown.
A moisture trap I bought for my airbrush years ago between the compressor and tank to make sure the air going in is completely dry (probably a bit of overkill, but too much is never enough).
A 1/4 NPT threaded fitting at the MC end of the hose so that I can easily adapt it to use on any vehicle (by making different plates and adapting reservior caps).
Sealing all fittings to the tank with epoxy to avoid leaks and add a bit of strength, since it's made of fairly thin plastic (PVC I would guess).
And the use of regulators on both the compressor and the moisture trap, just in case one should fail, so that the system doesn't get overpressurized and damage my brake system or burst a hose.

My family always tells me I'm too much like my grandfather and my dad in that I overengineer everything and go to great lengths to make it all work flawlessly :D

Hi Dan:

I used Grainger item #1X798 for my gauge, $5.94. Pressure-wise, it doesn't matter where you put the gauge, but you want to put it up high near the top of the pressure tank. You don't want brake fluid to get inside the gauge, as it is corrosive and will eventually ruin the gauge.

http://www.yankeetoys.org/KLF/BrakeBleeder3.jpg

I never go over 15 PSI when bleeding. I've never tested it to be sure, but I believe the weakest part of the system is the plastic reservoir on top of the MC. It's an expensive part to replace if you rupture it (plus it would blow nasty brake fluid all over the place).

I have my air supply double-regulated too, because the final regulator in that pic is for an airbrush, it can only take 60 PSI input max.

For pressure bleeding the brakes, I take a schrader valve and put it in the spare cap that I have and hook up an air chuck. Charge it up to 5 psi and I am done. Sure you have to make sure you don't open the bleeders as long so you don't run the MC dry, but it works great.

Originally posted by KLF
I never go over 15 PSI when bleeding. I've never tested it to be sure, but I believe the weakest part of the system is the plastic reservoir on top of the MC. It's an expensive part to replace if you rupture it (plus it would blow nasty brake fluid all over the place).

I have my air supply double-regulated too, because the final regulator in that pic is for an airbrush, it can only take 60 PSI input max.

Yeah I thought it had to be somewhere between 15 and 20 PSI. Good to know I wasn't too far off the mark. Forgot you used an airbrush moisture trap too. I thought I was so smart...

One more thing I just decided to add is a brass valve at the plate, so that I can bring the system up to pressure and make sure it's not overpressurized. Once all that's done I'll make more plates so I can use it on the other cars here and on the Dart I'm restoring.