I think the thing started as a 101", last night I flipped the rear springs arround, its now 108". the driveline will need 6" added to the length of the current one, and from the back edge of the rear tire, I've got 11" to the back edge of the rear bumper, which is going to get cut up and moved forward about 3" but the fun has only just begun, I have to rais the tank up about 6" so the diff won't hit it, and the shocks have to be mounted diffrent, and the back part has to be cut out to clear the tire

anyone think 108 is to long?

I told the old lady what you had done and she asked if you were smoking crack.....:D I told her maybe you were.....

Need some pics Brent:D

this is what it looks like right now, no driveline, no shocks, and the tank needs to be moved.

So, um, you were needing more departure angle to DRIVE UP A FRIGGIN STRAIGHT WALL?!?!?! Looks cool brent, can't wait to see it in action this spring.

SeanP

Seanp,
That just a general pick that he photochop's ever no and then to show us what he's doing. I don't see how he could get to that spot with no driveline or shocks. :D

He could get there in FWD no problem....:D drivelines and shocks are WAAAYYYYY overrated....:D

you don't need a rear driveline to go down :D

Brent, You never cease to freakin' amaze me with that XJ.
Greddy :D :D

Why do you want such a long wheelbase? If you're still planning on chopping the roof, why not change to rear coils or 1/4 elliptic and take 10" off the frame instead. This way you still have the sweet 101" wheelbase and a better departure angle. Or is it just easier to do the body work and fab up new shock mounts and gas tank location? It seems like you would get high-centered a lot more with the wheelbase that long.
-Jon

changing it to 108" is a lot easier than doing a 3 or 4 link with coil overs, or a 1/4 eliptic, all I had to do was flip the springs arround and I'm there, the tank will go through the floor and no longer be an issue of denting it, the shocks will get moved in a little on the axle and go strait up through the floor to a cage. cutting 10" off the back will destroy the whole jeep, worse than it is allready, the only shortening of the body I'm doing is boltin the new bumper on strait to the back of the unibody, instead of having the bumper come out 4" beyond the back of the unibody. I'm cuttin the rear roof off cause I'm getting rid of the hatch that dosen't close well now and is only getting worse, but want the interior still sealed from the elements so thats why I'm going to graft a comanchee rear cab/ bulkhead on behind the rear seat.

I think you will find that it will be too long in tight trails.You will need good nerf protection cause you will be sitting on the rockers alot more.I have a '73 blazer and the wheelbase is 106.5".I slam the rockers all the time and the break over angle sucks.This is with 4" lift and 33" swampers.I get caught on the t-case alot also.I don't know how mine will do now just put on new 36" swampers,should help.Anyway I think if you going to do the comanchee rear cab thing,I would bob the rear at the same time.I think you will be happier.Just my Thoughts.Good luck. Blazin :rasta:

Just had a thought.Why not move the spring mounts forward so that you end up with the stock wheelbase with the springs still reversed.Then bob the body to the shackle mount.You would end up with a better wheelbase and better departure angle.Blazin:rasta:

Originally posted by blazin
I think you will find that it will be too long in tight trails.You will need good nerf protection cause you will be sitting on the rockers alot more.I have a '73 blazer and the wheelbase is 106.5".I slam the rockers all the time and the break over angle sucks.This is with 4" lift and 33" swampers.I get caught on the t-case alot also.I don't know how mine will do now just put on new 36" swampers,should help.Anyway I think if you going to do the comanchee rear cab thing,I would bob the rear at the same time.I think you will be happier.Just my Thoughts.Good luck. Blazin :rasta:

No offense but that thing drags alot cause it just aint up in the air very much! Also your rig is alot wider then Bortons, and he also more lift :p

When are you going to get around to doing more then a photo chop?

Jeff no offense takin.But the problem I find is when I go over a rock the front goes over and as it drops down the rear is still not to the rock so I slam the rockers.Also looking at the pics it doesn't appear that his is any taller than mine.I am at 25" to the bottom of the rockers.That was with the 33"ers.With the 36"ers I gained at least an 1.5".Also the width isn't going to matter on the breakover angle.I just think that he should think about doing somthing ese to help the dep. angle other than lengthening the wheel base.He will be happier!Blazin:rasta:

He's running 4.5" spring lift with 35" SSR's. The belly is pretty 'smoothed' as he has reworked his crossmember so it's almost flat with the 'framerails' (--whatever that is on a unibody). I'm curious as too how it will work out, but it's mostly done (except for the cutting/welding part). He does have some decent rocker protection, but we'll just have to see how it works out.

Borton, sounds like it will be different. I dont think you'll get hung up anymore than normal.. but also dont know if it will make for a better rig. I know I get bored with my rig, and try to come up with new ideas for better wheeling too. While your working back there, swap axles and do hyd. rear steer. Now that would be so saweeet!:smokin:

a blazer has lots of shit hanging down, I got 22" from my flat frame rail, that nothing hangs below, to the ground. and yea I hit my rockers, but that is what the sliders are for. yea corners will be diffrent, but I've had no problem taking tight trails with a WB of 102, this will also open up the room in the rear of a 4 door xj for 38's :flipoff2:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16189
here is a discussion on the wheel base thing, I move the axle back forward a little, now I'm sitting at 106.5, axle in breaks hooked up, ebreaks need longer cables, but are hooked up, driveline lengthened and installed, I removed the bumper, and flares, now I need to cut and seal the thing up again and make new shock mounts, but at the same time I've got to move the tank up, build a cage, install a mj bulk head behind the rear seats complete with the rear slider, so this isn't a project that is going to be done next week,

Originally posted by blazin
I am at 25" to the bottom of the rockers.
and you have 7" of frame below that, and another 3 for a crossmember / t-case. that takes you down to 15" of ground clearance, Hummmmm, I got 22 in that area.