i'm thinking of running a full width gm 44 and using a high pinion 30 center section. is a 30, 30 spline like the 44 and does anyone know the difference from axle centerline to bottom of diff? i know theres a slight strenghth difference from the 44 to the 30 but i figure the rev. rotation in the front would help.:usa:

the 30 is 27 spline

thats way to much trouble and a 30 ring and pinion is gonna be weaker! Either stay 44 or go 60. fuck ground clearance just floor it!:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

spoken like a true genious!:flipoff2: thanks for the info.

That sure is a lot of work for a whole inch of difference. That's all that you'll gain out of it. Which tubes do you want to use. The 44 tubes won't fit into the 30 housing so you're weaker there also.

re-tubing an axle is done everyday for not much mulla. all i would have to do is turn down the 44 tube to go in the 30 center, its not like i'm jumping the damn thing. 1" is like going from 36s to 38s if you think about it. but since the axles are only 27 spline it wont work anyway. on the strength issue, a reverse rotation ring and pinion in the front is stronger than std. rotation. nobody says it would be as strong as a 44, but thats why i would use a rev cut 30 for a little extra strength. just kickin ideas around. open the mind, not every vehicle needs a 60.:rolleyes:

Just shave the piss out of the 44. Chop off the bottom right below the ring them weld a nice thick plate to cover the hole.

It's not a stupid idea at all.

Matter of fact, IMHO, a RR D30 is superior to a regular rotation D44 any time. (assuming 297 joints in the 30)

And that opinion is based on real world side-by-side comparison - me with a d30 and 44 outers (36" TSL), and my buddy with a Regular rotation Waggy D44 (35" SX). You should see his driveshaft angle, and it gets beaten to pi$$ every trip in the rocks

That's why I built a D30 with with D44 outers. Same strength in hubs, knuckles, U-joints, ball joints (coz they're d44 parts) Tubes are sleeved / trussed, RR D30 gears and a Detroit, custom alloy shafts (actually d44 shafts cut and splined for the d30). Superior clearance and driveshaft angle.

Anyone whoe says angle isn't important doesn't have any flex, and anyone who says an inch of clearance isn't much doesn't do any serious rockcrawling.

Don't counter with "strength" figures you read in a magazine and use to justify your choice - real world opinions and experience count.

Now - a RR D44 is better yet.

D60's are for people who can't drive :flipoff2:

Regular rotation D44's SUCK :p

that was spoken like a true genious! nice reply. sometimes you just need to look outside the box. how about a shave job on a rr30, now were talking 2" and that my friends makes a difference ( would make my 38s have the clearance of some 42s and thats alot). i still havent give up on this idea.:D

I think that shaving the diff takes out alot or beef from the housing. In shaving below the ring gear you are removing the portion of the housing that has an enormous amount of stresses on it. I have not heard of any housings breaking, but in my opinion you may as well leave it alone... just one less thing to worry about.

I have seen tons of shaved 60's, but not too many 44's. Does anyone have any links or pics?

I belive that the tri-county competition rock crawler has a shaved 30 in the front the a shaved 44 in the rear, so their web site might have some pics :roxy: