Ok,

After alot of frustration trying to make my yota engine/tranny work with the stock t case location, I removed the case and backed it up 3 inches. I now have a total of 7 inches between the rear of the tranny, and the t case. The zuk shaft between t case and tranny looks to be around 2 inches in diamater, while the toyota shaft that has the snout I need to go into the tranny looks to be about a 3 inch shaft. :: I should have measured these before I came to work, but didnt::

My question is this. Is 7 inches enough room to go from the larger toyota shaft, to the smaller shaft? If I need a bit more room, i can sneak the engine foward just a bit more, but it would mean that I have to cut out the sheetmetal where the hood latch is, and go to hood pins, and I really dont want to do that.

Thanks for the info.

Jim

if I understand right you have 7" flange to flange. Its gonna be tight trying to fit two u-joints and a shaft in 7". Why dont you build the shaft now and see if you can get it that short.

use a spicer h yoke, off like a boat out drive or something and two spicer ujoints with the caps changed for toyota flanges. then use toyota flanges. and the rear one to the t-case, redrill flange and open center of sammy flange and toyota flange fits right in. this works i've done it. it makes 2 ujoints and h-yoke and overall length about 5.5"

I should have checked back in sooner and I would have looked into that h flange!!

What I ended up doing, is I made new transfer case mounts. With my cj springs in the rear that moved the rear axle back, and the spoa, I was able to move the t case back 4 inches and still bolt in the stock drive shaft. Ive got a little over 1 inch of compression in the shaft before it bottoms out. I used a Toyota driveshaft, and zuknut sent me a t case flange that he modified at his shop for the toyota drive line. My drive shaft ended up being 8 inches, and I now have 2 u joints.

With the t case back that far, i went ahead and cut out the factory cross member, and build my own. My new one goes over the top of the front drive shaft, so their wont be any contact with the drive shaft now.

My engine mounts were going along smoothly, but when I tried to bolt on my header after I tacked my mounts to the factory engine mount plates on the frame, I was hiting the steering and the factory motor mount plates, so out with the fire wrench, and the frame is clean. Ive got the drivers side mount built, and have plenty of clearance for my header. Just got to tack in the pass. side mount, and then im over the hump and can start wiring up this engine.

Thanks for the help on the drive shaft!!

Jim