Ok, I did a few seraches and didn't come up with what I was looking for.

I called my local Industrial place this morning about floor anchors. I told him what I was doing and he recomended an anchor that was just a bolt with no sleeve into the concrete... He said you dril the hole in the floor and then screw the bolt down into the concrete... He recomended this over the sleeve type anchors and said I would have no problems with taking them in and out.

Anyone use these? Should I get something different? The bolts are about $2.26 and the drill bit is $12... If there is somethign better to use, I would spend the extra $ but would like something that doesn't stick out of the floor when the bender is removed..

Thanks!

I used the anchor inserts in mine. Hammer drill with a masonary bit, then inserted the anchors.

I wanted mine removable, and re-usable for other things (floor anchor point for winching a vehicle in, stand for grinder, etc.)

I am not sure what you are describing, but just drillign a hole and using a bolt into the concrete sounds like a BAD idea.

Originally posted by DRM

I am not sure what you are describing, but just drillign a hole and using a bolt into the concrete sounds like a BAD idea.

Thats what I am worried about... The guy at the shop said it would be fine. I told him I would be removing the bolts repeatedly over time and he said I would be fine. The bolts have a spiral on the them and no threads. and somehow the siral acts as the trheads so it is no just a conventional bolt. I have a friend that has used these and he called them Lead Anchors. He said they should work fine and I guess the spirals are soft so the bolt will wearout before the concrete...

You're talking about the new wedge bolt, Rawl, Simpson, and now Red Head make their own version, pull out and shear strengths are greater or equal to the common wedge or sleeve anchor, they are great because they are reuseable, if you go with the Simpson or Red Head brand you can use a standard size sds bit, it sounds like they were trying to sell you Rawl because they require a special sized bit, i would recommend this anchor also or the drop-in type suggested above.

Originally posted by Bradass80
You're talking about the new wedge bolt, Rawl, Simpson, and now Red Head make their own version, pull out and shear strengths are greater or equal to the common wedge or sleeve anchor, they are great because they are reuseable, if you go with the Simpson or Red Head brand you can use a standard size sds bit, it sounds like they were trying to sell you Rawl because they require a special sized bit, i would recommend this anchor also or the drop-in type suggested above.

I aksed him about the bit and what to use for drilling into the concrete. He said they sell the bit and that it is a standard SDS and that I could use it in a regular 1/2" drill.

I was told by my friend that you can thread these new bolts in and out a bunch of times, but after a while they'll eventually enlarge the hole to the point that they no longer grab.

I would use inserts and epoxy them in, the constant twisting force of bending has a habit of elongating the holes.

I would skip the bolt idea, if you plan on moving this thing alot.. The holes will wear out and you will have to drill new ones.

If you can get away with a larger hole in the slab, then you should go rent a core saw and drill a, say 4 inch hole in the slab. and then cement in a reciver (2 1/2 square DOM ).. This will allow you to pull it out as needed.

If you rent the house then, well you can always fill it in when you leave?

Hey Hey -

I just purchased a set of female threaded concrete anchors from McMaster-Carr for the same purpose. As mentioned above, you drill the concrete with a hammer drill, and slip the anchor in using epoxy so it's flush with the surface.

here is what the McMaster-Carr catalog says about them:
About Internally Threaded Anchors
Also known as drop-in anchors, internally threaded anchors mount flush with the base material. Use them with cap screws, bolts, and threaded rod in concrete, solid block and brick, or hollow block. Minimum embedment depth is the distance from the surface of the base material to the bottom of the anchor prior to setting the anchor. Tension strength is the ultimate parallel load an anchor can withstand before pulling out of the base material. Shear strength is the ultimate perpendicular load an anchor can withstand before breaking.


Here is the website (http://www.mcmaster.com/) for McMaster-Carr. Just use the search button and type "anchor concrete", you should see about 10 items. The ones I purchased are are item #93980A590. Make certain you get the epoxy and gun if needed.

This leaves the conrcrete floor without studs sticking painfully out when you are done, just holes to plug with set screws. . .

Good luck

In terms of rocks, I am first and foremost a Rock Climber over a Rock Crawler, and so I'm very biased towards use of the Rawl 5-pieces for concrete, since that's what I've used over the years (a decade now?) to place bombproof climbing anchors. These sleeve anchors are super beefy, and their design does lend itself to easy removal and fill, but to keep the stud of the bolt will protrude at all times if you leave it in there. I'm guessing you could thread a "placeholder" stud in the sleeve that had no head and took an allen key, but it would be sort of a pain to take them in and out.

BTW I am waiting on delivery of a bender myself, and I'm thinking of making a mount for it that would be basically a plate that was permanently bolted to the foundation, with through holes that I could easily and quickly put the bender stand on. Basically, I'm thinking of two or three bolts in the foundation, with a heavy bevel on the sides that will make it "nearly" flush, probably use some countersunk Allenhead bolts (instead of the hexheads that come with the rawl bolts) to make it flush, and then where the bender stand would mount, drill and tap holes, and weld nuts on the backside for more backing. I'll have to excavate a little crete on the backside to accomodate the nuts, but then I'd have a pretty low profile "faceplate" on my floor that would have that easily unthreaded property. Since two 3/8" Rawlstuds would be bomber for this application (something like 5,000#shear), I'd probably make a diamond-like faceplate, basically something that looked like the fairlead for a winch rope.

FYI - I just put a security door in that bolts to my foundation, and I used some of my old 3/8", 2" long Rawl bolts to secure one of the hinges. It's kind of ghetto, but rather than use my climbing handdrill (takes forever) and the SDS bit, I just slipped the bit into my air hammer at the right depth to keep the air hammer diaphram happy, and whaled away, pausing occasionally to blow out the dust (breathe this and die) and make sure the hole wasn't getting cocked. This is moot if you have a Bosch Bulldog hanging out in your garage, but for those that have a $10 HF air hammer, this is a good solution!

Sigh. Only 6 more hours till I'm playing in my garage!

Bob

Originally posted by ItsaCJ6
If you can get away with a larger hole in the slab, then you should go rent a core saw and drill a, say 4 inch hole in the slab. and then cement in a reciver (2 1/2 square DOM ).. This will allow you to pull it out as needed.



That's what fatkid did, works great;)

Epoxy the inserts to the concrete. Inserts wont enlarge, concrete will. Or be a lazy fawker like I am and hydro it. I made 2 bends and ordered the hydro stuff. Work smart, not hard.

i just did a search for these and they seem to be the new hi-tech way to anchor. we do a lot of concrete anchoring and anything that is fast and easy saves $$$. really, for us the removeable feature doesn't matter, but they look like big-ass Tap-cons.

i'm going to try to get some samples to check out.

for a bender, i still think i'd use drop-in anchors. hammer drill a hole just as deep as the anchor. blow all the dust and crap out. drop the anchor in, and set the wedge with a hammer and a pin-punch (or the fancy tool for setting them). for a one time and constant loading, a bolt in the anchor should be fine. for cyclic loading, i think i would rather use a stud that goes in and holds the wedge tight against the bottom...it would probably be fine without it, but i like it to be better than OK.

matt

http://www.simpsonanchors.com/fr_contractor.html (Titen HD)
http://www.powers.com/44-47.pdf


Originally posted by Bradass80
You're talking about the new wedge bolt, Rawl, Simpson, and now Red Head make their own version, pull out and shear strengths are greater or equal to the common wedge or sleeve anchor, they are great because they are reuseable, if you go with the Simpson or Red Head brand you can use a standard size sds bit, it sounds like they were trying to sell you Rawl because they require a special sized bit, i would recommend this anchor also or the drop-in type suggested above.

Yes, that is similar to what I got(the Titen HD)... These have spirals that stick out farther though and they have ribbed material between the spirals. $23 for all four and the bit.... I am goign to try them and see how they work. If they fail or wear the hole out, I will go to a sleeved anchor.

Thanks all!