Off road racers mount these on the car to carry extra oil, they are like $40 and dont even have the zoomy dimple dies so I decided to make my own. Just need to add a rod across the top to hold them down.

bottom view

very nice! those dimple dies are awesome... wish i had the fab skills to implement their use.

I think if I were going to make it, I'd have it double as a leak proof container. would also serve as a place to hold the oil if you had to drain it into something.

add a lid, a couple of handles and some latches and you'd have, an ammo box :grinpimp:

I`m with Dan on this one... I`ve had oil containers crack and leak and fill the rig with oil, and also power steering fluid containers leak.. it appears they don't like being moved around much and after a couple runs or 1 long ones the bottom of the plastic containers are all smashed (even if they barely move)...

Are you going to be using them all each run or for "emergancy / spare use" only??

I`m still looking for a good way to carry my oil... so the bottoms don't crack..

Da man gots skills!!
Sweet job! What brand of T.I.G are you using? I have been looking in to a square wave set up.

Kick ass welds dude!

I've never had a problem with the bottom of the quart containers comming apart, even in the off-road race cars, but they are usually secured well. I don't buy oil in the cheap bottles at the dollars store either:flipoff2:

It is a square wave welder, a Miller syncrowave 250. The key is the tungsten and the sharpening.

I think the bigger problem is dirt and grit getting in around the bottles and chewing holes in them as they rub together...
If your holder holds them real tight, it might not be a problem.

Hey Drew,
Bored?
:flipoff2:

S. (COOL! Can you make me one?)

Originally posted by Sethm
Hey Drew,
Bored?
:flipoff2:

S. (COOL! Can you make me one?)

I'm not too bored, I've just been needing to make some of these for a while now. I had to go to the bay area to a wedding with the GF and I had a half day to kill so I went up to a buddy's sheet metat shop and made some stuff. It goes pretty fast if you have the right tools like a shear, strippet, corner notcher and a press brake. We knocked two of these out in about a half hour, not including welding. You can buy them at Mckenzies or Kartek, they're probably not worth trying to make yourself unless you have access to equipment and you like doing this stuff.

Its funny how the simplest things are the coolest projects...

BTW... that 700 is going in this weekend. What a clusterfuck of parts that's become. I decided to not go man. valve body yet. But will if the tranny sucks.

S.

Nice work goat. It should make the search for oil alot easier next time you roll over.

He said "ROD" :flipoff2:

Looks good but i with it being solid just incase yuou need a emergancy container.

It will be mounted to the chassis so I dont think making it an emergency container will do me any good.

Looks good Drew. Do you have any pics of your new trailer to post up too? Bryan.

Nice, I just love tig. I think that the holes give it a very cool look, as apposed to solid. Personally, I use an ammo can that seals up air tight. Nice work, you should make some more and sell them for profit:)

on keeping the oil containers from breaking, you can take a empty quart of oil and cut it 3 or 4 inches from the bottom, slide it over the full quart one, efectivly double walled it.

Originally posted by SLO_Crawlers
Looks good Drew. Do you have any pics of your new trailer to post up too? Bryan.

You can check out this weekend, I'll be in SLO. I am planning in taking pics and posting them in the tow rig section.

Lookin' good!

I would need two of those as my 2F takes 8 quarts of oil! :eek:

looks real good goat, i prefer to carry gallon containers myself. and like you i dont have a problem with mine cracking either, but maybe thats cuz i have 1 gallon steel miniature nato cans for oil..

Originally posted by RHINO
looks real good goat, i prefer to carry gallon containers myself. and like you i dont have a problem with mine cracking either, but maybe thats cuz i have 1 gallon steel miniature nato cans for oil..

Were did you get those?

Originally posted by GOAT1


It is a square wave welder, a Miller syncrowave 250. The key is the tungsten and the sharpening.

it's been a very long time since i ran a tig but when you say it's all in the shaprening dont you mean the glob at the end of the tungsten .
for aluminum i always remember having the tungsten with a blob
and for stainless or mild steel you sharpen it

am i smoking on this or is my memory working correctly

Originally posted by fj junkie


it's been a very long time since i ran a tig but when you say it's all in the shaprening dont you mean the glob at the end of the tungsten .
for aluminum i always remember having the tungsten with a blob
and for stainless or mild steel you sharpen it

am i smoking on this or is my memory working correctly
Your memory is correct.

Sweeeet

where did you get those?


from colemans (http://www.galleria-e.com/cgi-bin/colemans.storefront/en/catalog/1014) it doesnt look like they have a same ones i bought right now, but they have other cool containers

Originally posted by fj junkie


it's been a very long time since i ran a tig but when you say it's all in the shaprening dont you mean the glob at the end of the tungsten .
for aluminum i always remember having the tungsten with a blob
and for stainless or mild steel you sharpen it

am i smoking on this or is my memory working correctly

Your memory is correct, that's what I used to do. You typically use pure tungsten that would ball up from the AC current. I would be fighting it all the time, the arc would wander and it was a real PITA. A friend turned me on to ceriated tungsten, I guess that's what the bike welders use. You grind a point similar to when you are welding steel but you leave a small flat spot on the end. It doesnt ball up like pure tungsten does and you get a more accurate controlled arc that lets you weld soo much nicer.

Originally posted by Overlord
Lookin' good!

I would need two of those as my 2F takes 8 quarts of oil! :eek:

Thats not too bad. My tow rig (F250 powerstroke) takes 15! (Man do I hate changing the oil on that thing.)

Loooks good Goat! Now I am thinking about making something similiar (except with bubblegum welds of course!!), :D

Originally posted by GOAT1


Your memory is correct, that's what I used to do. You typically use pure tungsten that would ball up from the AC current. I would be fighting it all the time, the arc would wander and it was a real PITA. A friend turned me on to ceriated tungsten, I guess that's what the bike welders use. You grind a point similar to when you are welding steel but you leave a small flat spot on the end. It doesnt ball up like pure tungsten does and you get a more accurate controlled arc that lets you weld soo much nicer.

interesting do you recall the percent of thoriated tungsten he/you use for aluminum welding > i gotta try it my aluminum welds look good with the blob but yes the freakin arc wanders and can drive you nuts when your learning tig .

i was studying to be an aircraft jet propulsion welder all very thin gauge crap
i learned on beer cans and razor blades edges . in the end i didnt have the patience for it .

Originally posted by fj junkie


interesting do you recall the percent of thoriated tungsten he/you use for aluminum welding > i gotta try it my aluminum welds look good with the blob but yes the freakin arc wanders and can drive you nuts when your learning tig .

i was studying to be an aircraft jet propulsion welder all very thin gauge crap
i learned on beer cans and razor blades edges . in the end i didnt have the patience for it .

Ceriated, not thoriated. I don't know the percent of cerium, I think you just buy ceriated tungsten.