my brother has found a '70 FJ40 that he is looking into buying. I personally am a toy truck man and don't know that much about land cruisers. The guy selling the vehicle said it needs a wheel cyclinder kit. It also has a 350 swapped in it. other than that, he doesn't know anything about it. my question is what should he look for when he goes to see it? any problematic area that should be looked at real close? thanks in advance for any help:question:

Boy howdy, there's a lot to look for. First of all the wheel cylinder issue is minor. What I would be concerned with is the 350 swap. How well was it done? I've seen some major hack jobs as well as some really clean installs.

What about a lift? You didn't say if it had one or not. It's another areea I would be concerned about. Who did it, and how well?

Then there's the body..... I can only truly speak to FJ-55s, but you want to look for the usual rust issues.

I'm sure others can be more specific.

I'd be thinking about going for a disk brake swap.

More particulars would help, i.e. asking price, etc.

there is no lift on it, and it has 31's on it now, the guy is asking $3000 for it, and there is some rust on the body, but i haven't seen it so i can't really say.:question:

get under it and make sure the frame isnt rusted out any where,Id pull one of the spark plugs and see what it looks like make sure its not all gummed up or soaked in oil.

i would really check the v-8 install and for rust. the wheel cylinder problem is inherent to cruisers and common.

On the 350 install - look at the engine placement in the bay. You want the engine far enough back for adequate fan-radiator clearance, but not so far back the distributor cap is hitting the firewall when you flex. Also check that they did not hack the firewall to clear the valve covers (seen that more than once).

I think the correct spot for the engine mounts on the frame is about 10 to 11 inches back from the shock towers.

HTH

I agree with Screwzer: Look at the V-8 and rust.

As for the V-8, it will likely have the 3spd still. IF you can find one of the old adapter plates for the 4 spd you can convert it fairly cheaply to a Toyota 4 spd(You'll also need to move the rear t-case x-member back). Some old school conversions had the fiewall cut for the distributor, and these typically have cooling issues. You should see room behind the v8 for air to flow past. If its butted right up against the firewall, it may be a problematic overheating deal. Check motor mounts and the welding/bolting attachment. I have seen some REALLY shady welds, ones I'd have not trusted for my body weight, let alone a motor. Check front driveshaft clearance on the oil pan. Some motors have been shifted too far to the right to clear steering boxes and are now a problem with the driveshaft. Most will not have this problem, but if the conversion was not planned properly, it may be.

On an FJ40, body rust IS an issue. Check over the taillights and under the rear doors. These are good telltale areas. BE sure to check under the rig, above the rear bumper for evidence of hack bodywork. While there, check the two diagonal frame members that connect to the rear crossmember(bumper). These seem to be some of the first areas of the frame to rust out. The diagonals will often push the rear x member down b/c of rust development. This is not bad but the rust is starting. Also check the floorboards under the drive seat and the passenger foot well. The rear cargo are is also subject to rust... One other area that can rust out is the cowl/windshield frame area. These can be a bear to fix and keep from leaking.

HTH...

thanks for all the help guys, my brother and i are going tomorrow to look at it, hopefully its not a POS.:confused: