i just picked up an 88 samurai, its got a SPOA done to it already and has 31x11.50s all terrains on it. the 1.3l is totally gutless!!! like 60mph tops, what can i do for some power?? what about a 1.6l??? or maybe ring and pinions... like i said it has 31s on it what kinda gearing should i go with?? all my knowledge is in old fullsize chevies, we'd use 4.10s for 31s but thats with a minimum of a 350ci pushin it. so what can i do for some more power first of all?????

I put 4.62's in my brothers zuk,Its on 31's and he can do 75-80 tops.

GRs 2 is great gearing for those size tires

should be easy to check, but sometimes people that don't really have a idea of what they are doing, put timing belt on one tooth off on the cam. make it really slow. 99tj from this board has had a similar problem. it really should go at least 70 on a flat highway. ad thats with stock gears and 31 bfg m/t's

and grsII is the way to go with the 4.89 :1 low range and 15?% 2wd gear reduction.

wat is this grs2?? 4.62s huh?? i plan on goin up to 33" TSLs soon as possible, will those gears be any good with 33s?
hmm ill check the belt this weekend.

if your going with 33's start saving up for a 16l the 1.3 is gutless with 29's with grs1 (tranfer case gear set 4:16 to 1 low) and 1:58 to one high range with 3.73 diff gears. i think it comes close to 5.89 to one in fourth gear. forget fifth gear.

grs I II III ect....are t-case gear sets ...4.16....4.89 ....6.1.....6.5....

to one low range the sammy t/c has gear reduction in hi range so

the different gear sets have lower high ranges to boot 12%.....18% .....24% in the same order as above.........

the gear ratios for the track/kick r/p.s is 4.62 for the automatic an

d 5.12 for the stick shift model,s .....there are other ratios available but these two are the most common from {cheap} junk yards or donor trucks ...........

the track/kick front ring and pinion will fit on the front and rear carriers of the samurai diffs .......but will need a cross pin retaining can and a shim or modified carrier side adjuster{trail tough}...................

as far as 33.s are concerned i would stay with the 31,s untill you get some better axel shafts in the stock front axel.........

the 33,s can do and will break stuff in the front end when it is stock........................

ask anyone on this board a zuk on 31,s will do just fine off road..

im going to sell my 33,s and go back to 31,s .....im will eventually get the calmini 26 spline fronts and longfeild/smurfeild treated birfs............................

hope some of this helps bring you up too speed......

You should probably run 31’s for a while.
Get used to wheeling a samurai first then go bigger.
With 31’s breakage is uncommon, with 33’s it’s regular.

I would:
Tune up the motor, change all belts and hoses, all fluids, including tranny, t-case, and dif oils. (I found regular motor oil in my front dif when I bought mine)
If you plan to wheel it hard, order some 6:1 t-case gears. I still run 31’s and the 4.16 t-case gears are marginal in really tough terrain. If you are daily driving it on 31’s the 4.16:1 t-case gears are perfect.
Build rocker protection – angle iron is quick easy and strong
Bumpers – you will lose your stock ones the first few times you go out.
All while keeping an eye out for better tires and a 1.6.
Wheel it, get used to it, you will be surprised. I run mostly with heeps on 35s and 36s and it safe to say we are very close to equal in all areas (remember, I’m on 31’s).

I've got the same issue aas Muddysub, I'm doing a SPOA on a stock 88 zuke. I plan on running in wooded trails in Michigan, so I won't be climbing boulders, waterfalls, cliffs, etc. With stock gears will I be able to run some 33x14.5 boggers (actual height is 30.5) and still be able to pull hills? Sorry to steal this post, but it was so close to mine that I couldn't see starting a new thread.

33" with stock gears, you probably wont be pulling up those hills very well.

I have 4.56 gears in mine and with 33" tires and stock t-case it had plenty of power for the hills at the Badlands.

damn!! keep the info coming guys thanks a lot. so this thing could have 5.12 R&Ps in it stock???? what about this GRS2 set, how much $$$ is that?

Originally posted by muddysub
damn!! keep the info coming guys thanks a lot. so this thing could have 5.12 R&Ps in it stock???? what about this GRS2 set, how much $$$ is that?

http://www.petroworks.com/transfercase.htm#G.R.S.

Be sure to talk to Brent @ Trail Tough too

Originally posted by MRfuelish
if your going with 33's start saving up for a 16l the 1.3 is gutless with 29's with grs1 (tranfer case gear set 4:16 to 1 low) and 1:58 to one high range with 3.73 diff gears. i think it comes close to 5.89 to one in fourth gear. forget fifth gear.



That is correct in most cases. For example my wifes 87 sami has no lift and 235's. It will NOT do 60mph downhill. My 87 sami has some goodies on it though. Before I put the gears in 5th was still possible. Now I've got 4.1 in the case, 5.12's in the diffs and 33's with a potent little 1.3. I can easily do 80 in 5th.










and it's still carb'd













Oh I forgot welcome newbie:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

I have 31" tires and 6.1 Tcase gears and stock 3.73 R/P, later as I grow the tries I can lower the R/P, works good on the HWY cruises at 60-65 mph in 5th gear and off road at idle it runs everything over, save your money don't do anything to the motor just drop the gears go 6.1 Tcase and wheel it for a while to see what works best for you.

If I had to start over again, I would do the same thing!!!!!