I am going to convert my 74 FJ40 (F engine) over to electronic igniton, but am wondering what the best option would be. Would the electronic igniton convertion kit offered by Spector or just getting a distributor from a 78 FJ40 be best? Or is there another option that would work best? Thanks for any advice.

You can use the dist out of a 78 and newer L/C. I think the Screwzer did it and posted to the LMCL how to do it. Seemed simple enough. If you get a later dist(one of the Large cap style, you will need to get the engine side inspection cover, b/c it is got a recess for the larger dist. BTW the '78's fit w/o this cover... I am not sure what year they got the larger style.

You can use Pertronix too. It is about $70 and fits stock distributor. (it fits entirely under the cap except for one more wire to the ballast resistor) I use it in my '73 FJ55 and it helps. I averaged 16.5 mpg for 6000 miles when I drove it across the country and back(About 6-700lbs load in the back too). NEVER even hiccupped once. I cannot say enough good about it. Starts better, idles smoother and requires NO adjustment once in. Use a stronger coil and make sure the positive on the pertronix hooks to the ballast resistor(~9V). We hooked up my friends to the 12V on his BMW 2002 and it shuts off b/c the black module gets hot??? THe paddle wheel with the photo LED's(I think the Crane is this style) are a pain b/c the LED's can get dirt/oily and it reduces the effectiveness.

Originally posted by cruiserbrett
You can use Pertronix too. It is about $70 and fits stock distributor. (it fits entirely under the cap except for one more wire to the ballast resistor) I use it in my '73 FJ55 and it helps. I averaged 16.5 mpg for 6000 miles when I drove it across the country and back(About 6-700lbs load in the back too). NEVER even hiccupped once. I cannot say enough good about it. Starts better, idles smoother and requires NO adjustment once in. Use a stronger coil and make sure the positive on the pertronix hooks to the ballast resistor(~9V). We hooked up my friends to the 12V on his BMW 2002 and it shuts off b/c the black module gets hot??? THe paddle wheel with the photo LED's(I think the Crane is this style) are a pain b/c the LED's can get dirt/oily and it reduces the effectiveness.

And where might one get this $70 item?? I am about ready to tear into my ignition and I would much rather do this that replace the points again.

I searched around and here is the cheapest I have found it...It replaces the points and is EASY to install. Just like changing the points...

http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/toyota.htm

HTH

One more thing...For those with the NON USA points style Vacumm Adance distributors from specter, MAF etc, the Pertronix 1665 fits. I have this setup now, and it rocks.

Originally posted by cruiserbrett
I searched around and here is the cheapest I have found it...It replaces the points and is EASY to install. Just like changing the points...

http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/toyota.htm

HTH

KICK ASS!!! Thanks!!

You can use the dist out of a 78 and newer L/C. I think the Screwzer did it and posted to the LMCL how to do it.

Yep. I used an '83-86 distributor. I got a used one along with the ignitor, coil, and side cover from Danny Warden (you cannot mix and match dist. coil or ignitor). If I recall correctly, it came to $150 total. I then took mine to a distributor guy that's in my town and he recurved the centrifual advance weights for performance (about $50). I've got the vacuum retard disconnected and just use the weights for advance control.

Way cool system and performs admirably. Best thing is that there's an o-ring between the cap and dist. body so it's waterproof. There are also two nipples on the top which I used to keep it dry by running a hose from one of 'em up to the top of my firewall and the other one to the air cleaner. This keeps a constant flow of air going through the system to clear out any moisture that might be present.

Because I'm a goofball and like to hit deep puddles at 30 MPH for the rooster tail effect, this feature was very important. Also planning on deep creek crossings in the future.

I'd do it again, but I tend to always go for the Toyota solution wherever possible. This was a very clean install requiring only a single wire rather than the spagetti of the old points style systems.

ive been real happy with my HEI conversion.

I have a 74 also and I just put a Chevy HEI ditributor in mine and it is unbelievable at the power and the fuel milage increase that I got. I went a got a rebuilt 79 Camero I-6 Distributor $90, and took its timing gear off and took the timing gear off my OEM and put it on the Chevys, Drop it in, hook up a 10 guage power wire and time it and that is it. No more points to go out and the performance is awsome! Any questions email me at muspos@rocketmail.com

Originally posted by Psycho
Any questions email me at muspos@rocketmail.com

of you could just start a post and tell all of us what you did and show a couple pic, would keep you from recieving 50 emails!:D :D

The Pertronix 1665 will not work in a CA 74 TLC. The tech dept said they may have one that would work but they need the distributor number to see. My cruiser is in the shop right now so does anybody know what the # is for a CA 74 TLC with a small cap? Thanks

If you cant get one for the CA spec dist., I run the Non-USA dist(Vac Advance/with pertronix) in my '74(now legally officially a '73)FJ55. When I used to have to smog it here in CA, it flew WAY under the smog police radar. They never even noticed it was not the proper one, and it ran clean enough not to even raise an eyebrow.

JC Whitney also offers one similar to the Pertronix. Anyone have any experience with the JC Whitney one?

On my '78 I have a blown timing advance diaphragm, in other words: no timing, and 78 was the first year for electronic ignition, and the 79 and up models have a different diaphragm. so is there a cheaper way to fix this without buying a whole new toyota distributor? they're huge money. I only get about 8mpg and the performance is not as good as it was before it blew. On the street I turn it by hand so it barely idles but runs better in the higher RPMs, and on the trails I turn it back so it idles good and runs good at low RPMs. it's a pain in the ass.

I'd still recommend the 83-87 Distributor, but I don't have any experience with after market. You should be able to pick up the entire system used for about $150. Try Wardens in Placeville, CA.

mano002, I realize Toyota OEM parts for distributoors are outrageous. Did you try a distributor rebuilder?

We have one here in Grass Valley/Nevad City area that did a great job with mine. On mine he replaced the bearings and went thru everything. He re-curved the advance so that the centrifugal weights took care of the advance, rather than a diaphragm. This may be the cure for yours. My cost was way under $100 and it looks and runs like new.

If you can't find a rebuilder try this guy:

Ignition Engineering
11301 Alpine Ln
Grass Valley, CA 95945
530-273-7271

tell 'em Clark sent ya!

For the mechanically challenged, HEI distributors may be found at : http://www.performancedistributors.com/ ($375) or http://www.classiccruisers.com/ ($295). Now, no flames, please, I know they're spendy. But they are bolt-in.