Here are some pics of my build. Have had this thing in bits for ages but have pulled my finger out lately as I need it back in 1 piece.

First couple are of the cab chop and tray. FYI, it's a 84 model LWB tub chopped (I know some of you will wanna lynch me for that one! :flipoff2: ) on a 85 narrow track frame.

'Nutha one of the cab/tray

Lower coil mounts for the rear. Made from 100mmx100mm box cut in 1/2 after holed with a 65mm holesaw. A piece of 65mm exhaust tube centres the coil on the mount.

Oh BTW, here's my new MIG :flipoff2:

Trailing arms are donated by a Range Rover, I also used their mounts at the chassis end. Here is one of them after being cut off a section of Range Rover chassis

Trailing arms coming together... original arms cut in half and slid up a length of 38mm OD cold drawn seamless tube. I think this stuff is the same as the 1.5" DOM u guys go on about...

Trailing arm assembled with plug welds in place. These things are 1100mm long (that's about 43")

More pics of the coil mounts that are tidied up a bit. They now also have a shock mount in the same assembly. I like the idea of having the shock up above the diff housing like this, keeps em out of harms way, and less things sticking out to get hung up on.

'Nutha one of the coil/shock mount

Rear diff with truss and ball joint mount. A-frame is from Range Rover. The coil you can see is from King Springs. It's 65mm ID, and 175lb/in rate. Free height is 350mm (14")

'Nutha shot of the rear end

EDIT: FYI those coils are to be mounted INBOARD of the frame rails. That's why I upped the rate a bit to 175lb. I think they should flex pretty well.

Trailing arms in place. I have since cut off the original spring hanger as that would get in the way at full uptravel.

I'm interested to see what the squat/antisquat is like with this setup... I am using the "suck it and see" R&D process :flipoff2:

'Nutha view from a slightly different angle. You can see the uprights for the tray in this view. They are 50mmx50mm box.

'Nutha shot of the trailing arm on the other side. I think the angle is pretty good, though it should be even flatter than that as the ride height is going to be pretty low, only about 2" over standard. I'm trying to keep my CoG as low as possible and make the belly flat so I can slide over things (to make up for the lack of ground clearance).

Trailing arm tabs. Made from 50mmx5mm plate. I am going to spread these out a bit to give the trailing arm room to move in the horizontal plane. Otherwise I think I would be tearing those tabs off the housing...

Received my Rockhopper series 3 gears this week :flipoff2:

six-to-one here we come!!! :D

:rainbow:

but its still a suzuki damo :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Damo
Trailing arm tabs. Made from 50mmx5mm plate. I am going to spread these out a bit to give the trailing arm room to move in the horizontal plane. Otherwise I think I would be tearing those tabs off the housing...
I dunno...but with coil springs inboarded that far. Can you say bodyroll!!!

Dunno man, the only Q that I have is do you have argon, or any gas at all on that welder? Looks fine to me though.:D

Originally posted by tanzuki

I dunno...but with coil springs inboarded that far. Can you say bodyroll!!!

Yeah, i think it might lean a bit into the corners. That's why I upped the rate a bit. In hindsight I probably could have gone to 200lb/in but then again there wont be a lot of weight on that back end. If the bodyroll ends up really bad i'll use a swaybar on road.

Originally posted by Bryan_Sheets
Dunno man, the only Q that I have is do you have argon, or any gas at all on that welder? Looks fine to me though.:D

Nah, no bottle. I'm just about to move 1000+ kms and cant really lug a bottle with me. I am definitly not liking this flux core :barf:

Flux definetly sux the big doob. I really like how you made your spring mounts out of 4" square tube. I am getting inspired allready.;) I really want to lift my new tintop, but I am the brokest I have ever been in my life. I am trying to find the cheapest way that I can accomplish this. Some would prolly just say to buy perches, but what about doing just what you did, and finding some junkyard springs like Aerostar. That sounds pretty cheap to me. I dunno, I just don't have the money that I used to, before the kids. Enough bleeding heart for now.:(

I've got some towers fabbed up for the upper coil mounts in the rear.

It's just something I thought i'd try coz I really dont know what ride height i'm going to need in the back, and it makes it easy to change springs and get the ride height back even. It should make adjustments a breeze.

The coil mount plate will sit between the 2 towers and be held in place by 12mm bolts (1/2"). To change the height take the bolts out and move the plate and refit bolts. Should work.

I'll be gussetting these once they go on, i'm not sure if i'll be bolting or welding them on at this stage.

Another...

dunno if you've mentioned it but I'm to lazy to look.
How are you setting up the front?
:eek:

Originally posted by Tintop
dunno if you've mentioned it but I'm to lazy to look.
How are you setting up the front?
:eek:

I'm putting some zook rear springs up front. They're a bit of a custom pack I made up, a mixture of some aftermarket heavy duty rear leaves and a standard front pack. The leaves have all been matched and chisel pointed. They are looking like they'll work OK, though I might have to put a slightly longer shackle on there yet.

I ordered some RS99012s for the rear today.

Have some more pics coming of the rear upper coil mounts installed, as well as a few other little bits & pieces.

Originally posted by Damo
FYI, it's a 84 model LWB tub chopped (I know some of you will wanna lynch me for that one! :flipoff2: ) on a 85 narrow track frame. WERE DOES THE LINE START?:mad:

Originally posted by Crab Bait
WERE DOES THE LINE START?:mad:

Hehehe, suck on this :flipoff2:

Got some more done recently, here's the pics...

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