460 won't fire

[steevil]

no power to the coil.

Does the negative wire on the coil go to the distributer?

or does the positive wire go to the distributer?

points style ignition.

I changed the intake and carb now the damned thing won't run.

Turns out the stalling problem was a plugged fuel line. I plumbed new
lines to the Carter electric pump.

I had to pull the distributer out to get the manifold off and I had problems getting the distributer back in so my idiot
freind bumped the starter with the distributer out.

Here's what I've done:

1, Removed Plug Number 1 and jammed some kleenex in the plug hole.

2, Turned the engine over by hand until the kleenex popped out
(compression stroke)

3, The timing marks on the balancer were still about 30º away from the
pointer before the kleenex popped out. SHould not 0º be top dead
center?

4, I dropped the distributer in pointed at number 1 just as the kleenex
popped out but without the pointer reading 0º. DO I merely need to
crank
it over by hand to 0º and make sure the distibuter is pointed directly
at number one on the distributer?
With the engine cranked over by hand, the distributer points between 1
and 8 cylinders.

Sounds like I'm one tooth off on the distiributer? Will turn over but
won't run.
It ran before but very poorley. Fuel was pouring out of the carb while
it was running. That is with the bowls properly set and the mixture set
as low as it would go.

I'm thinking it's also flooded. I plan to remove all the plugs, heat
each one up with a torch (to burn off the excess fuel) and then
possibly
try to ignite the excess fuel in the cylinders using the torch
(standing
the hell back of course!)

Getting spark, getting fuel, getting frustrated.

Any info is mucho appreciated


__________________

[Killerpee]

Ok...I'l step into this. The kleenex method sound ok, but just because it pops out doesn't mean its at the TOP of the compression stroke. The easiest way I can think of if oyu can't see in the hole is to take a compression gauge with the check valve out and feel until there is no more air pushed out. This will get you very close to TDC. Secondly......about the coil. The sid emarked + should have 10+ volts key on. The other side should have a pulsing ground with the engine cranking. This ground is from the distributor and tells the coil to fire. Check it with a test light hooked up to the positive side of the battery. Good luck.

[masterbeavis]

Originally posted by steevil
no power to the coil.

Does the negative wire on the coil go to the distributer?

or does the positive wire go to the distributer?

points style ignition.

I changed the intake and carb now the damned thing won't run.

Turns out the stalling problem was a plugged fuel line. I plumbed new
lines to the Carter electric pump.

I had to pull the distributer out to get the manifold off and I had problems getting the distributer back in so my idiot
freind bumped the starter with the distributer out.

Here's what I've done:

1, Removed Plug Number 1 and jammed some kleenex in the plug hole.

2, Turned the engine over by hand until the kleenex popped out
(compression stroke)

3, The timing marks on the balancer were still about 30º away from the
pointer before the kleenex popped out. SHould not 0º be top dead
center?

4, I dropped the distributer in pointed at number 1 just as the kleenex
popped out but without the pointer reading 0º. DO I merely need to
crank
it over by hand to 0º and make sure the distibuter is pointed directly
at number one on the distributer?
With the engine cranked over by hand, the distributer points between 1
and 8 cylinders.

Sounds like I'm one tooth off on the distiributer? Will turn over but
won't run.
It ran before but very poorley. Fuel was pouring out of the carb while
it was running. That is with the bowls properly set and the mixture set
as low as it would go.

I'm thinking it's also flooded. I plan to remove all the plugs, heat
each one up with a torch (to burn off the excess fuel) and then
possibly
try to ignite the excess fuel in the cylinders using the torch
(standing
the hell back of course!)

Getting spark, getting fuel, getting frustrated.

Any info is mucho appreciated


__________________


I dont know shit about points style ignition systems. And forgive me if I cover what you already know..

ok, first thing, DO NOT let the torch anywhere near ANYTHING on your motor!!! A flooded engine will eventuall un flood itself.

To see if you really arent getting spark, find youself a handy dandy screwdriver, pull a sparkplug wire, stuff the end of the screwdriver into the wire, and hold it about 3/8" away from teh block, have your buddy crank it over, you should see sparks (dont be touchin the truck while you are doin this, you might get zapped) Switch the wires around on the coil till you get fire

Set the pointer to read zero on the dampner. Stick you finger in the hole and have your buddy rotate the crank with a wrench and make sure that TDC corespondes with TDC on the dampner. It "might" be off a few degrees.

When you line up the dizzy to #1 and try to put it in, rotate the rotor back about 1/8 of a turn (counter clockwise) so when it falls into place, it will line up closer to where it needs to be. If it wont go in, it is because the oil pump driveshaft is not in phase with the bottom of the dizzy. There is two ways of getting around this. One is to take the dizzy back out and use a small socket wrench (1/4" or 5/16") with a long extension taped to the socket. Rotate the shaft a lil bit till the dizzy falls into place. The quick way is to hold the thing down, and have yoru buddy turn the key, it will line up and drop in. (just make sure you have the rotor turned back like I said ) once it drops into place, rotate the crank 2 times to get it back to TDC on the compression stroke and check the alignment of the rotor to where #1 should be on the dizzy housing.

{edit} the engine fires at slightly before TDC, and the cylinder will be making the "kleenex" shoot out anywhere before TDC on the compression stroke

When you drop the dizzy in and check your marks, if it lines up, but the vacuum advance is too close to something to make it adjustable, you need to take out the dizzy again, and rotate the rotor back a lil more to get it where the dizzy will be adjustable.

Is this making any sense?