so thies numbers/letters mean somthing can you tell me what it is


thanks.

Motocraft D3UF TA

it's a 2bb


thanks agen

More than likely it's a 2150. The most common motorcraft 2bbl carb. They're all about the same, and make good offroad carbs. Buying rebuild kits is a sonofabitch cuz there were so many petty things that changed. However, most kits I've delt with come with parts for a few different carbs.

If D3UF TA is a ford part number, then

D= 70's (decade)
3 = 3 (year)

D3 = 1973

That's all the help I can offer.

1973 Econoline Holley model 2100

http://www.joblotauto.com/documents/carburetor_kits.doc

Also some good links on decoding Ford part numbers.

http://www.shotimes.com/SHO2fordpartsdecode.html

http://www.westmichiganmustangclub.com/part_decoder.htm

http://www.wantabe.com/hdrace/dfrdpt.htm

http://www.aloha.net/~djhamma/partnumb.htm

Originally posted by Paul Gagnon
1973 Econoline Holley model 2100

http://www.joblotauto.com/documents/carburetor_kits.doc

Also some good links on decoding Ford part numbers.

http://www.shotimes.com/SHO2fordpartsdecode.html

http://www.westmichiganmustangclub.com/part_decoder.htm

http://www.wantabe.com/hdrace/dfrdpt.htm

http://www.aloha.net/~djhamma/partnumb.htm


wow thanks for the links this is a big help for me :D

thanks :eek: :)


and yeah I have to agree a grate off road carb I have had no problems with it and it strate off the pump no regulater

I just thought I'd bring this thread back to the top. Maybe Matt or Roger can make it a sticky or start a new thread with the info.

good call paul, needed a new TOTM... or topic of the quarter... whatever...

You know the drill... tips, tricks, what works, what don't... etc etc...

One thing to know about Ford designed Carbs, 2100/2150/4100, 2V and 4V. If you look on the drivers side of the fuel bowl you will see a cast number inside a circle. It will be one of a number of combinations. Example is '1.08' '1.12' up to '1.32' being the highest number I can recal seeing on a 2V. '1.08 and '1.12' are only on the 4V.
Anyway, what this means is the venturi diameter of the carburater. '1.08' means just that, 1.08" in diameter of the venturi. NOT the Butterfly bores. The venturi diameter is the limiting facter on CFM and the very thing that creats the low pressure zone in a carb to syphon fuel out of the bowls to be atomized in the air stream.
Some where I've seen the breakdown between Venturi Diameter and CFM of a particular Carb. But I cannot tell you off hand what is what on CFM. I do know that the '1.12' 4V is not even 600CFM. So the '1.08' and '1.12' 2V (the most common) are not going to be over 300 CFM.

Ford always under carbed their engines, Ive seen 390's with '1.08' 4Vs with the correct tags still on the carb so I'm resonably sure it was origanal to the engine.



Eric

The only thing to know about...convert to EFI. :D

Heh...... I already replied to this thread. How about that.

That's some good info Alpo, thanks!

I'm not sure how accurate this is but for what it's worth . . .

2100 venturi diameter - CFM
0.98 - 190
1.01 - 240
1.02 - 245
1.08 - 287
1.14 - 300
1.21 - 351
1.23 - 356
1.33 - 424

Another good point to remember is that 2 barrel and 4 barrel carbs are rated under different vacuum. For example, a 2 barrel carb that flows 400cfm would relate to maybe a 300cfm 4 barrel. I forget the exact relationship, but check out Holleys website or search a bit on cfiworld.com forums and you can find it.

Does anyone know of a good source for tips and tricks for and Edelbrock carb?? I just got back from wheeling where my truck caught on fire 3 times because the carb kept coughing and stalling on inclines, so I either gotta fix it or roast marshmallows. I've already did the offroad needles and seats. Help, my K&N is smoldering!

i know this is old, but perhaps killerpee will see it.

set your floats as low as possible. next, go get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. best $20 you will ever spend. when crawling, set it on 2-3 psi. this will starve the carb, and cure alot of your flooding. you wont be able to turn past 3500rpms or so, but if you need the secondaries kicked in you can just pop the hood and turn it back up. trust me on this one, the adjustable FPR will actually make the eddie offroad worthy (about as worthy as you can get with a carb).

can any body tell the best place to find a 2100 ie year make and model of a donor truck or car. I like to scrounge in the wreckers and would like to put a 2 barrel on my 83 bronco I-6 also does any body know what the addapter plate looks like I would like to fab one and pics would be great. it is too cold up here to wheel so projects I can carry inside are about it.
thanks

I have an Edelbrock 600 cfm, and a Carter 625. Both are half assed performers stock. I run low pressure off road, and still they want to stall. SO, my question is: will the off road kit make that much of a difference for me? I also have the stock 2 barrel that came on the truck when I got it (not sure which model, haven't looked) but I am wanting to make the best of my situation until I can afford to do an EFI conversion.

Second question - if I go back to the two barrel, should I use the stock intake (cast iron) or use an adaptor for the Performer intake (aluminum) that I have on there now?

is this a good choice to upgrade my 1 barrel I would like something simple I will make an addapter plate and grind and separate the intake manifold but I dont know what carb to put on top is this ok
C2AE-9510-B
thanks

who has some tricks & tweeks for the 2100 or 2150 2bbl carb?

I have an Edelbrock 600 cfm, and a Carter 625. Both are half assed performers stock. I run low pressure off road, and still they want to stall. SO, my question is: will the off road kit make that much of a difference for me? I also have the stock 2 barrel that came on the truck when I got it (not sure which model, haven't looked) but I am wanting to make the best of my situation until I can afford to do an EFI conversion.

Second question - if I go back to the two barrel, should I use the stock intake (cast iron) or use an adaptor for the Performer intake (aluminum) that I have on there now?I ran Edelbrock performer (Carter AFB clone) on my Bronco for years and was never satasfied with it's off camber and incline performance. I ran the off road needle and seat (only good for faster speeds over bumpy terrain) adjustable fuel pressure regulator (helped alot) lowered the floats as much as possible and even made some custom vent extensions (aluminum tubing epoxied into the "D" shaped vent holes next to the metering rod covers) these helped the most. I went from that to a Holley Pro-Jection unit (biggest pile of crap ever!) and finally to a fairly stock Rochester Q-jet. That thing worked great, till I broke the crank on the freeway coming home from wheeling :eek: Oh, well I gotta put that thing back together one of these days..........Hans

on the edelbrock theres a transfer passage in the back of the carb hat will allow gas to pass between the two float bowls. You can insert a block in there that will keep the fuel from transferring between the bowls, that is supposed to help on off-camber situations. I did that to mine but I haven't had a chance to test it off camber yet.

I need suggestions for a good off road carb. I have a built 390 with a Edel 750cfm. From what I have heard it is shit off road. What do I need (other than EFI)? Lots of hill climbing and stuff, not too much off camber .
Thanks

My experience with Edelbrocks is they want to flood when the rig is nose-down. Uphills and moderate off-camber were fine. The regulator suggestion 45acp has is an excellent one. I'm running a freak Thermoquad off a Dodge 440 cop motor because of the mud drags and it's got the same flooding issues as the afb did, but the reg. seems to help it some. I'm still waiting for the double pumper guys to post...

I need suggestions for a good off road carb. I have a built 390 with a Edel 750cfm. From what I have heard it is shit off road. What do I need (other than EFI)? Lots of hill climbing and stuff, not too much off camber .
Thanks
Do a search in this very thread and you will find the info on how to make your Eddie run offroad. If you are still hellbent on wasting money on a different carb, then go with a backwards Qjet or a 2barrel Motorcraft.

I am not hell bent on wasting cash. If someone knows of a good off road carb that doesn't need to be tweaked in such a way that it ruins the top end performance I would like to hear about it. reduceing the float levels is not good for overall performance, neither is reducing the psi. My motor is happy in the mid to upper rpm range.
Does anyone here run a Holley Truck avenger or Q jet?

I am not hell bent on wasting cash. If someone knows of a good off road carb that doesn't need to be tweaked in such a way that it ruins the top end performance I would like to hear about it. reduceing the float levels is not good for overall performance, neither is reducing the psi. My motor is happy in the mid to upper rpm range.
Does anyone here run a Holley Truck avenger or Q jet?Q-jet is almost as good as EFI....runs great at just about any angle, very responsive (small primaries) good top end (huge :eek: secondaries) great gas mileage (small primaries).............Hans

I am not hell bent on wasting cash. If someone knows of a good off road carb that doesn't need to be tweaked in such a way that it ruins the top end performance I would like to hear about it. reduceing the float levels is not good for overall performance, neither is reducing the psi. My motor is happy in the mid to upper rpm range.
Does anyone here run a Holley Truck avenger or Q jet?

I've since changed to a Qjet, and it's pretty decent (still going to SEFI) It's not a particularly difficult swap, but be sure that you get the right gaskets, and you'll likely have to fabricate or come up with some sort of throttle cable. I built a throttle cable out of bicycle brake cable, it just has to last for a year or so until I make the swap.

I've had nothing but headaches from Holley, but some folks will tell you that they're the best thing ever.

Get an adjustable regulator, changing the PSI makes a HUGE difference. Just a quick turn of the dial, and you're off. They're pretty cheap, and a easy install. An electric fuel pump did help me quite a bit also.

Thanks.

If you want a carb that works well offroad, and you dont have to lower the floats and run a FPR at low pressures, then you want something which does not exist. No matter what you run, you will still have to run an FPR and do a few other "tricks" to get it to perform half-assed at what we do. These are typical band-aid fixes that allows carbed rigs to run on decent trails. Even then, you will eventually get a sputter, some flooding, or the thing flat out dieing at the worst possible moment. My "wasting money" comment meant this- you can get any of them to run just like each other using all the tips/tricks on the interweb. Why spend $300+ on the latest bling bling Trail Avenger or whatever when you could swap to EFI for not much more and be done with it? I see nothing wrong with band-aiding the carb you have for a while until you can do better.... but why waste money on a new carb that will work marginally better when you could have put that money back for EFI?

O.K. I will save my money for EFI.

Ok, ive recieved several PM's stating that the generic "fix your Edelbrock carb" link is down. So, in an attempt to help my fellow brother, this is the be all- end all Edelbrock carb writeup.... special thanks to my sponsor Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Im going to make this as basic and understandable as possible.

You can in fact make an Edelbrock run like a Qjet. If you do not do everything as outlined by this, then it will run like shit. In the end, its still a carb, but ive seen a couple of eddies set up like mine perform admirably offroad as far as carbs are concerned. Dont listen to the lame asses who tried one and gave up without doing everything.... if you follow these steps your Eddie/Carter will run like a Qjet offroad. DO NOT waste your money on a different style carb..... if you're on a low budget and want a rig that will run upside down do a search on this forum for propane injection.


Step 1
You must have an offroad needle and seat. If you are running a Carter, then it should have the spring loaded needle and seat factory. If its an Edelbrock- check. It's not stock but if you bought it used there is a small chance the previous owner threw one in it. This part(s) is usually around $12. You can get it from Jegs, Summit, or anywere else that sells carb junk.



Step 2
You must have a fuel pressure regulator. Most auto parts stores sell them. I run the Purolator brand available at Advance Auto and several other places. They usually cost around $20. When on the trail, set it on 2-3 psi if you're running a big block or lumpy small block...... 1-2 psi if you've got a weak/factory small block or inline 6. You will need to play with this to get the best setting for your usage.

Step 2
You gotta set the floats. Factory settings are for street and vary quite a bit. With the hat off of the carb, lay the assembly upside down. Measure from the edge of the float to the base of the hat. Bend float arm until you get 1/2 inch for a big block/lumpy small block or 5/8 inch for a weak/factory small block or 6..... you may need to fine tune for your specific application. Make sure you do not press the needle down into the seat. I usually use a flathead screw driver under the float arm to keep tension off of the needle/seat during bending. You can use a bolt of the correct size or a drill bit as a ghetto measurement tool....

Step 3
You must block off the channel between the bowls. This allows one bowl to flood the other if you are off-camber. The channel is on the back side of the carb. You can either block it off with a big glob of JB Weld, or a short piece of vacuum hose. Make sure you leave enough clearance for the carb assembly to be bolted back together. If your piece of hose isnt flush with the body, or if your glob of JBW is too tall, the body will not seal...

Step 4
Set the float drop at 1.25 inches. There will be a teeenie tiny tab on the back of the float arm that will bend to allow float drop adjustment.

If you have anything to add to the above, or wish to challenge anything above, by all means please do so.... :)

Step 3
You must block off the channel between the bowls. This allows one bowl to flood the other if you are off-camber. The channel is on the back side of the carb. You can either block it off with a big glob of JB Weld, or a short piece of vacuum hose. Make sure you leave enough clearance for the carb assembly to be bolted back together. If your piece of hose isnt flush with the body, or if your glob of JBW is too tall, the body will not seal...Never tried that step. Sounds interesting. I did, however, have fair results extending the "D" shaped vents (next to the metering rod access covers) by epoxying pieces of aluminum tubing in there.........Hans

I want to rebuild the 2150 on my '79 Bronco. This brand is Walker. Parts are from O'Reilly's...which do I need?

WLK Carburetor Kit
15593D $11.99

WLK Carburetor Kit
15677A $19.99

WLK Carburetor Kit
15718B $19.99

Does this help at all?
http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/79bronco/headgasket/carb_label.jpg

http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/79bronco/headgasket/carb_opening.jpg



The other thing I see is a #13 on the top of it, top front right, and what looks like L21 in a circle on the right side of the carb.

Thanks!

I’ve ran a 2bbl Motorcraft for the better part of 2.5 years. I have occasionally swapped on a Quadrajet, and I have a Quadrajet on the truck now. Everyone talks about lowering fuel pressure, and for me personally, it has not done any good. The Quadrajet seems to be happier with higher fuel pressure. Here is my setup:

7-9 psi electric pump plumed in right at the fuel tank. I have the stock mechanical pump on the engine, and 90% of the time, I don’t run the electric pump. The electric pump is on there in case the mechanical one fails, or if vapor lock becomes an issue......it did in the summer of 2004, but I haven’t had any real issues with vapor lock since then. With the Quadrajet, if it gets bouncing around or if I’m climbing a very steep hill, it often cuts out. If I turn on the electric pump, it is fine. I have the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and I always have it at the highest setting which is 5.5 psi. Anyone else have a similar experience with the Quadrajet?

I’d be interested to hear about some Q-Jet mods.

Roy

Also, for those wanting a "large" and cheap Motorcraft 2bbl, you can order one from Autozone for about $90. Tell them you have a 1969 Ford LTD with a 429 engine.

Ive recently bought a Pro systems carb, 770 man secondarys, custom built for a 408w with a shot of nos. i took it out of the box bolted it up and even the idle was great. AMAZING... ive never had a miss, flooding problem, or anything. for the $$ its the best carb ive ever had. ( it was about $60 more than a new holly). check them out @ www.prosystems.com anyone else got one?:flipoff2:

o yeah, frogot to add i get 18 mpg in a fullsize bronco with 35's

Talk about bringing back old threads from the dead:eek: