my '92 4.0 starts fine first thing in the morning. after driving for 10 miles and shutting of the engine (like at the gas pumps), the darn thing will not even turn over! dead! waiting about 45 minutes it will then start up and run fine. any ideas??

hhhmm..?? Thats a tough one.. I'll have to think about it, My friends chero was doing something like that a while back.

cps, and ignition coil are a good place to start. change cps if ya havent already, because it will be a problem someday. Damn things can really throw ya off.

My '87 would do that from time to time. Turned out it was a relay.

I just purchased a '91 limited and it takes several seconds of cranking to get it started... is there something to make it start quickly?

Mo

rokcrlr

no every xj I have been around takes a few seconds to start
Its a xj thang just gota deal with it
:D

Ive seen a few XJ's do this but mine seems to take FOREVER :confused:

Got in a buddys ZJ and as soon as you hit the key it cranks right up, like my CJ...

mine probley turns the engine over four times then vroom vroom
had the jeep for about 4yrs now starts the same as the first day it came home

had a friend who wanted his to start faster so he changed the plugs, wires, coil, distributer, crank sensor and it still starts the same way turns over 4 or 5 times

kstomper
his did the same thing drive it for a while shut it off and have to wait for 30 to 40 min to start it again I think he changed the throttle position sensor
talk to your jeep dealer I belive there was at one time a recall on the tps switch as they call it

:D

Originally posted by kstomper
my '92 4.0 starts fine first thing in the morning. after driving for 10 miles and shutting of the engine (like at the gas pumps), the darn thing will not even turn over! dead! waiting about 45 minutes it will then start up and run fine. any ideas??

Dead? so is your engine turnign over and you need to wati till it will start again?

Mine starte acting up afew weeks ago, ive been workign on it every chanve I can. With mine Ive been driving like 20-30 miles on the highway and it will sputter or kick like 3 times durign that trip, when I hit city trafic and stop at a light, when at idle and it kits the engine stalls. After it stalls I have to wait 15-20 min till It will start back up.

I first jsut had the kick or missing, so I replaced the TPS sensor, i also had the ocasional high idle so I replace the ICA at the same time. I then cleaned my throttle body, ALL my electrical connectors, my EGR valve and inspected it, cleaned my mat sensor, replaced my fuel filter and fuel pump, replaced my spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotating piece.

I think the CPS, EGR, or ICM "ignition Control Module" could be broke, i may also have a faults o2 sensor but I dont think that would prevent the enigne from starting where as the CPS and ICM could.

should I pay to get it tested or shodul I just keep replacing stuff!

I have good fuel pressure right at 32psi and my fule regulator is working correctly, i replaced my pump because I did the 30min pressure test, my pressure regulator passed but the fuel pump alowed 20psi drop which puts it right on the border of pass and fail so now its not the problem.

any Ideas or sugestions before I sink more money into sensors and such.

Originally posted by kstomper
my '92 4.0 starts fine first thing in the morning. after driving for 10 miles and shutting of the engine (like at the gas pumps), the darn thing will not even turn over! dead! waiting about 45 minutes it will then start up and run fine. any ideas??

Dead? so is your engine turnign over and you need to wati till it will start again?

Mine starte acting up afew weeks ago, ive been workign on it every chanve I can. With mine Ive been driving like 20-30 miles on the highway and it will sputter or kick like 3 times durign that trip, when I hit city trafic and stop at a light, when at idle and it kits the engine stalls. After it stalls I have to wait 15-20 min till It will start back up.

I first jsut had the kick or missing, so I replaced the TPS sensor, i also had the ocasional high idle so I replace the ICA at the same time. I then cleaned my throttle body, ALL my electrical connectors, my EGR valve and inspected it, cleaned my mat sensor, replaced my fuel filter and fuel pump, replaced my spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotating piece.

I think the CPS, EGR, or ICM "ignition Control Module" could be broke, i may also have a faults o2 sensor but I dont think that would prevent the enigne from starting where as the CPS and ICM could.

I dont think I can test he ICM but the CPS can i test that with a DMM?

thanks,

If it takes alot of cranking to start its most likely the CPS you should have an extra one with ya just incase.
its located at the 10-11 oclock postion on the bell housing.

Originally posted by xjweeble
If it takes alot of cranking to start its most likely the CPS you should have an extra one with ya just incase.
its located at the 10-11 oclock postion on the bell housing.

Havent bought one yet, what price range $50ish? I might pick one up tonight.

So buy one any ways?

would a faulty CPS cause the hesitation, kick I feal at highway speeds when the engine cutsout then kicks back in quickly?

Is there a test for the CPS? Resistance or voltage?

found this on cherokee america

tdc sensor tells the ecu where top dead center is

symptoms

1- car cranks but wont start

2- begins to idel rough has a tendancy to go bad after a hot run next time you try to start the car it wont kick over

test

if you have a no start condition an easy way to test for a bad tdc sensor 9 out of 10 times is to simply unplug and replug the sensor where it plugs inti the main harness near the rear of the intake manifold if the jeep starts you can bet it is the tdc sensorand needs replaced



I have not tried this this is just some info I found on the web hope it helps

Terry:)

Check resistance across the two pins, should be around 200 ohms.

if it's short or open, replace it.

i've found that putting some kind of insulation (like a small piece of gasket material) between the CPS and bellhousing will dramatically increase the life of the sensor.

heat cycling is what gets those little bastards. when i pulled my last one out, and checked it for resistance, it would read 213 ohms, if i'd hold a lighter about 6 in under it to heat it up, it would eventually read infinite. blow some air at it to cool it off, and it went right back to 213.

also, make sure it's being pushed downward while the bolts are being tightened, it generates a stronger signal that way (makes it start a little quicker)